ANSWER -- I know I have answered this question in the past, but I seem to be getting many questions about this problem again so I thought we should readdress the issue.
Scale is an insect that really does not look like an insect. In fact, most times it does not look like an animal but rather a fungus. The appearance is that of many whitish spots dotting a branch or trunk. If you pick off one of the white spots you will see a critter hiding inside the armoured shell. It is this shell that makes the insect almost impossible to control with conventional insecticides. The insecticides cannot penetrate the protective covering.
It is the adults that you find in the armour.
The young "crawlers" can be treated with insecticide, but you have to apply it at just the right time to get them. This is almost impossible. The only thing you can do is to apply a product called dormant oil in the winter, well before spring. The oil will suffocate the insects in their shells. You may need to reapply. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's directions carefully as this product can damage your shrubs if not used correctly.
QUESTION -- I was wondering if my Virginia creeper vine could be wintered in the garage in the original pot -- the garage is not heated, but is insulated. Or should I just plant it in the ground? If so, when?
ANSWER -- The answer with overwintering plants in containers in our area is the same as always. Perhaps.
Much depends on the type of winter we get and how well insulated the roots are. Wrapping the container in insulation (fibreglass) will help. Keeping it in the garage will help.
If the soil gets overly dry you may have to mist it as well. The best way of ensuring survival, by far, is to plant it in the ground. This eliminates the temperature variations that occur with a containerized plant in the winter.
QUESTION -- Could you give an opinion on the following gardening problems? Some of our tomatoes, when ripe, have rotten spots on the bottom. Also, the top leaves of our golden elder tree are turning brown.
ANSWER -- Some golden elders are prone to sunburn. If the plant is in full sun this might be one of many causes.
The tomato problem is likely blossom end rot. Blossom end rot is a physiological problem with tomatoes and zucchini. The first symptom is the appearance of what looks like a water-soaked area at the bottom of the fruit. This area continues to deteriorate turning black/brown and shrivelling, leaving a leathery sunken area. It is caused by a lack of calcium. This does not necessarily mean that the soil is deficient in calcium; it may simply mean that calcium has not been able to be taken up by the plant.
This lack of uptake could be caused by several factors:
Lack of steady moisture during periods of drought. It is critical to keep tomatoes moist at all times, and this is especially true when the fruits are setting and developing. Using a clay pot in a hot location could be a contributing factor. Clay pots are notorious for drying out more quickly than plastic pots because the clay is much more porous.
The plant needs calcium to develop fruit properly and that calcium is dissolved in soil water. If water is lacking then so is the calcium. Thus, you can have a calcium deficiency and yet have a good source of calcium in the soil.
Rapidly growing plants are more prone to the problem because fast growth requires an abundant supply of water and calcium. Also, excess nitrogen can contribute to the problem by excessively speeding up growth.
Transplanting tomatoes into cold soil may contribute to calcium deficiency because the organisms that convert calcium into a usable form are not as active in cold soils.
Cultivating deeply around tomatoes can damage roots and cause a lack of water and calcium uptake.
Tips to avoid blossom rot:
Keep soil moist but not sopping wet. Excess water is just as bad as not enough.
Mulching will help maintain even soil moisture.
Shallow, frequent cultivation is best.
Adequate but not excessive nitrogen.
--Canwest News Service
