Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Hair dryer and dandruff shampoo can lift stain
Question: How can I get black scuff marks off a painted ceramic piece, without taking the paint off? Also, I have a large area of melted red wax crayon in the back seat of my car. It is not possible to scrape any of it off, as it has soaked into the fabric.
Answer: To remove scuff marks on ceramic pieces, rub with an art eraser and wipe with a damp cloth.
To remove wax on upholstery, heat the wax using a hair dryer and scrape as much of the wax as possible. Spray WD-40 onto the area, leave for 10 minutes and wipe.
Scrub the area with Head and Shoulders Dandruff Shampoo and water. Rinse with water and let air dry (test all products on an inconspicuous area first).
Feedback from readers:
Re: Coconut oil
I have discovered the magic of coconut oil. Face-painting booths are popular for kids. The paint is difficult to wash off. If you put coconut oil on the skin before applying makeup, however, the face paint is easy to remove — it just wipes off without bother.
I am also a hairstylist and have found that just before rinsing dark-coloured dye out of hair, I can put coconut oil around the client’s face to prevent the staining that sometimes happens on the forehead and neck.
— Elizabeth
Re: Water spots on wood floor
Dear Reena: Marianne had a problem with water spots on her hardwood floors.
Not sure if this will work for her, but I have laminate flooring in my dining room and could not clean it without getting water spots.
A friend told me she always cleans her floors with a spray bottle of Windex and a microfibre cloth. I have been using Windex ever since and no longer have trouble with water spots.
— Ellen
Life’s Little Tricks:
• Clean your iron by running it over a sheet of aluminum foil sprinkled with salt, while on hot (no steam).
• Tired of mixing up the shampoo with the conditioner? Secure a rubber band around the conditioner to differentiate the two.
• Reuse old sponges. Rinse well and place in the bottom of a plant pot to hold water longer.
• Studies show that after 20 minutes inside a grocery store, shoppers are more susceptible to buying impulse items. Stick to the list and avoid lingering.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups; check out her website: reena.ca. Ask a question or share a tip at reena.ca
Renovation & Design
Improved insulation for older home begins in attic, basement
Question: I live in a River Heights bungalow built in 1952 with three stucco exterior walls, and the front has vinyl over wood. The interior walls are plaster. I am considering insulating the exterior walls.
I am not enthusiastic about removing the stucco for this job, as it is in quite good shape. The basement is partially insulated with fibre batts in one area and rigid foam in other areas.
I have heard about closed foam insulation but I am not clear if drilling holes into the exterior stucco is effective.
A popular TV show handyman recommended the benefits of the closed-cell foam method, but he also suggested tearing out all the plaster walls to the studs and applying the foam. This is far more work and cost than I would want, seeing as there is nothing wrong with my plaster.
Is this a good idea or should I concentrate on re-insulating the basement? Can you comment on this or lead me into a better direction? Thanks.
— Al C.
Answer: While insulating the exterior walls of an older home should not be the first priority for energy efficiency retrofits, doing it from the exterior is often a viable option. There are two main choices and choosing which one to go with will depend on your budget and availability of good contractors in your area.
Improving the energy efficiency and comfort of a ’50s-era home often begins in two main areas, the attic and basement. It appears you have partially completed the basement upgrades, and I can safely assume that there has been additional insulation installed in your attic over time. Either way those two areas, especially the attic, should be initially checked and have upgrades to insulation, and particularly air sealing, done as needed. Air sealing is critical to prevent warm air intrusion and minimize condensation in both those areas. Using enough good-quality insulation and proper ventilation should be sufficient in the attic, while the basement walls may require installation of or upgrades to the polyethylene air/vapour barrier, as well as the thermal insulation.
After those two easiest areas are addressed, the next step should be one component of the exterior walls. While it may seem that the poorly insulated walls are a major contributor to lousy thermal performance, older windows are much more of a concern. In my opinion, no homeowner should think about adding insulation to the wall cavities before upgrading their windows.
Replacing windows with modern ones will not only lower heating costs, but will also make all the rooms in the home more comfortable. Not only do the older wooden sliders let the warm air escape the living space, they may also let a large amount of cold air leak into the home.
Now, once you have stopped heat and warm air from pouring out your basement walls, attic and windows, the final area to consider is the walls. Since they likely have wood or plaster lath, covered by plaster and multiple coats of paint on the inside, air leakage may be minimal through the middle of the wall areas. Most of the problem is at the corners, junctions between floors, and protrusions. Gaps between the framing in the walls and ceilings, inside corners, and electrical boxes may be the primary areas of concern. While the receptacle and light switch boxes could be sealed with spray-in-foam from a can, or a gasket weatherstrip behind the plates, the corners are more difficult to deal with.
The two main types of blown-in, retrofit insulation for exterior walls are plastic foam or cellulose fibre. Making the often-confusing choice between these will depend on several factors. Overall cost, ease of access for application and experienced insulation contractors may be the overriding variables affecting your decision. How easily a contractor can get good access to all the exterior areas of the home for drilling holes, dragging hoses and general work may help with this decision. If foam is your choice, higher-density polyurethane will be preferable to less-costly, lower-density products, due to the better air permeability ratings. As with any renovation job, asking the contractors about years of service with the particular product, references from previous customers and any workmanship warranties is critical.
Removing wall coverings and baseboards from interior walls, just to add insulation, does not make sense when better-quality insulation can be installed from the exterior, with only minimal damage to the finish. Choosing the right material and contractor for your home and bank account should ensure a more comfortable and energy-efficient home is the ultimate result.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors — Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
New home may have coverage for shallow stair fix
QUESTION: I hope you can help shed some light on the required building code standards for stairs in private dwellings in Manitoba.
My son recently purchased a new house and moved in about two weeks ago. I went over, once they moved in, and noticed that the main staircase going from their main floor level to the upper level had very narrow stair treads.
I was a little surprised at this and thought I would measure my own home’s stairs. My house was built in 1986, and the main staircase has stair treads that measure 10½ inches deep. My son’s stairs measure 8 5/8 inches tread depth.
I searched the internet on building code standards and then phoned the Winnipeg permits office to get information on building code standards. The Winnipeg permits office sent me some information on the 2010 National Building Code (NBC) standards. These standards indicate that the minimum tread depth for stairs in a private dwelling have to be 235 mm or 9¼ inches.
According to the 2010 NBC, my son’s stairs do not meet the minimum tread depth. Do houses in Manitoba follow different building code standards for stairs than those set out in the 2010 NBC? If the stairs in my son’s house do not meet the building code standards, what options do home owners have to get these types of issues corrected? Thanks, — Gary White
Answer: Building code adherence and enforcement is the responsibility of the local municipality in which a home is built. Regardless, older homes do not have to conform to current building codes.
If the home is newly built, then there should be protection for your son through a new home warranty program or title insurance, but contacting the city for a record of permits and inspections should answer which way you go.
Despite several articles touching on the subject over the years, many readers do not understand the difference between a home inspector, like me, and a municipal building inspector. Registered home inspectors (RHI) are unlicensed private individuals, often business owner/operators, who primarily inspect houses for perspective buyers.
The majority of these homes are not new, but more and more clients are hiring us for inspections prior to possession of brand-new homes. No matter what age of home, adherence to building codes is beyond the scope of the inspection and the RHI is doing a performance-based assessment. That is not to say some concerns identified will be code issues, but these are normally items that are identified for safety concerns. Building officials are trained inspectors who are typically employed by a city or municipality and are tasked with ensuring new construction, or renovations on existing buildings, are meeting the applicable building codes at the time they are built.
So, the answer to your inquiry will solely depend on the age of the home your son has recently purchased. You state he has bought a "new house," but often people use this term when someone buys and moves into an older dwelling that is new for them. If I approach your question assuming it was built within the past couple of years, never occupied and sold as new by a builder, then I can state that your concerns are valid. If it is a resale home that is not covered under any sort of warranty, then my answer is simple. The older home does not have to comply with current codes or standards, unless the stairs have been recently replaced or a major renovation of the entire home has recently been undertaken.
In a newly built home, there is definitely some culpability for the improperly constructed stairway. Before a construction of a new house begins, permits must be obtained from the city or municipality in which it is built. A detailed plan must be submitted, and often a survey certificate or other document showing the location of the structure on the lot. Once submitted, an employee, or several individuals, will review the plan and application forms and either approve it or ask for revisions or additional information. Once approved, construction can begin at the desire of the builder or contractor.
This is where the grey area begins, as far as most people’s understanding goes. It is up to the builder or contractor to contact the municipality to perform phased inspections, as the construction progresses.
The number and point of completion of these inspections is at the discretion of the building official, but it is generally up to the builder to contact the inspector when the home is ready to have each phase checked out. If the builder does not arrange for an inspection at the appropriate times, or the inspection does not proceed for any of a number of reasons, then building code violations may occur. Sometimes, these are noticed after the fact, or upon final inspection of the property, but may also be missed if they are covered by further construction.
If the inspector is familiar with the various trades or contractors, and trusts their abilities and knowledge, they may choose to inspect only certain aspects of the construction.
If the home is newly built, it will likely have a new home warranty of some kind, which should cover defects in workmanship or code violations for the first year or longer after completion. Unless there has been a special exemption granted by the building official to allow the narrow treads on the stairway, which is possible, then the warranty provider should require the builder to correct the defective stairs. If there is no warranty, then it is more complicated to get this resolved. You may be successful in getting the city to force the contractor to comply after the fact if proper permits applications and inspections were never done. Otherwise, if you purchased title insurance when you bought the home, a claim with the insurance provider may get the stairs repaired.
Buying a previously occupied home will provide your son with little to no protection for items done wrong or in violation of current codes. If it is indeed a new home with this error, which was somehow overlooked, contacting the local municipality or city responsible for enforcement, or the title insurance provider, should yield a solution.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors — Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to trainedeye@iname.com. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
Renovation & Design
Applying proper oil preserves teak furniture
Question: What is the best way to care for teak furniture? — Alton
Answer: Teak furniture is a lifelong investment that requires a minimal amount of care, while still retaining its beauty. Polish teak furniture by applying either teak or coconut oil onto a cloth and wiping wood along the grain. Remove all excess.
Question: How can I remove chewing gum that has been ground into our carpet? I looked on your website but couldn’t find the answer. — Jordan
Answer: Spread smooth peanut butter over the gum; work it around all of the mess. The gum will become oily and easy to remove. After it is gone, clean the carpet with dish soap and water.
Question: I was a guest at a workshop that you spoke at last month. You demonstrated how to make your own microwave popcorn. Can you please tell me the quantities again?
Answer: Just like store-bought popcorn, not every kernel will pop, but this method is cheap, easy and, best of all, tasty.
Into a brown paper bag, mix a ½ cup of un-popped popcorn and one tablespoon vegetable oil. Add a sprinkle of salt.
Fold the bag over two or three times to seal. Microwave 2½ to three minutes or until the popping slows down. Carefully open bag and eat. Butter may be added as desired.
Extra popcorn treat: In a stainless-steel pot, combine ¾ of a cup corn starch, ¼ cup butter or margarine, two teaspoons water, ½ cup of icing sugar and one cup marshmallows. Stir and heat until marshmallows melt. Pour contents over 20 cups of popped popcorn and form into popcorn balls. Cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature.
Question: Other than throwing away stale potato chips, do you have any tips of what I can use them for? — Mandy
Answer: Perk up stale potato chips or crackers by spreading them in a single layer onto a microwave safe pan. Heat on high for a few seconds. Tip: Stale potato chips and crackers also work well when crushed and sprinkled onto casseroles.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups; check out her website at reena.ca. Ask a question or share a tip at reena.ca.
Renovation & Design
The gift of presence
We moved from Killarney to St. James back in the fall of 1957, when I was but a tender lad of nine.
I was not happy to leave my beautiful little town of Killarney, where all my friends lived, to reside in the big awful scary city (like Oliver going to London), but it didn’t turn out nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be.
Really missed that lake though...
Christmas was huge for us. My dad particularly loved hunting for just the right tree — it had to be perfectly balanced with no branches missing, so he could meticulously decorate it with family help, coaching all the while on how to hang that tinsel just right.
While writing today’s column, doing a brain search for interesting memories of Christmases past to share with you, I came to a sudden and somewhat surprising revelation: I can’t recall even one of the Christmas gifts I received during all the years we lived there. I have loads of Christmas memories, yes, but none of the gifts received.
I think I’m correct in recalling that when I was a little kid in Killarney, at least two gifts come to mind.
One was a big red fire truck I really wanted, and the other was a Roy Rogers gun and holster set (double, and cap guns at that), which I was absolutely thrilled with.
I got into a bit of trouble with those guns later that summer when I clonked Marilyn Lyons on the head with one of them. Self defence, I swear. I mean, it worked for Roy. No, that didn’t turn out well, and I have no doubt she is still plotting revenge.
The strongest memories from back then are the family gatherings; the big dinners, always a big treat, my brother Bob coming home for Christmas. Then, there’s that memory when Bob had moved back home for a bit, and on Christmas Day, he allowed me to take his 1959 Buick Invicta convertible (white with a red interior) down Douglas Park Road and back — alone (I was probably around 15) — and while turning back into our lane, I rubbed the whole side of it down the bumper of a parked car. Bob was fine with it. I still shudder.
Another strong Christmas memory is our family going across the back lane for our neighbours’ (the Baileys) annual Christmas gathering, where I first, reluctantly, tasted both black olives and smoked oysters. Gah!
Also highly memorable — this from Christmas dinner at home — was grabbing the largest turkey drumstick I could find and taking it to my room to share with my drooly Cocker Spaniel, Skippy. We’d alternate bites until it was gone. Man, was he happy!
My dad had a Christmas tradition that perhaps some of you share, or might want to add to your repertoire. He did not like winter. He loved summer and greenery. As soon as people threw their Christmas trees out, he would go gather as many as possible and freeze them standing in rows between the house and garage so when he looked out the kitchen window, he’d see a forest of green instead of frozen tundra.
Gotta admit, it was pretty. Gave Skippy lots of trees to pee on. A win-win all around.
No question, gifts are nice — and much appreciated — but it was the people, fun, food and love that made those Christmases so memorable. Or... maybe all I got was socks and underwear and who’d want to remember that?
Sincere best wishes for a loving, memorable Christmas to you and yours!
Yes, even you, Marilyn Lyons.
Comments or feedback, love to hear from you!
lmustard1948@gmail.com
Renovation & Design
Preventing gutters, downspouts from icing up helps avoid winter damage
Frozen gutters and downspouts may seem like an inevitable winter-weather concern, but those heavy icicles hanging from your rooftop after a heavy snow or cold snap need not be a foregone conclusion.
You can take steps to prevent them — and should — because they can damage gutters and lead to ice and water backing up on the roof and forming even more damaging ice dams. The weight of ice can sag the gutter or bring it down entirely.
First off, resist the urge to go after the ice with a hammer or axe.
Professional gutter cleaners say they find incredible damage to gutters every spring, and chopping away at ice ends up doing more harm than good.
Once your gutters are already frozen solid, your best bet might be to wait it out.
Thawing out gutters tends to be expensive and short-lived.
You’ll end up paying hundreds of dollars to get a steam system or hot water application to clear the ice, but it’s not a permanent fix.
You might see the same spot frozen just a few days later.
To permanently prevent a future freeze, you can install a heating panel system in which wires or heating elements run the length of the gutter and downspout to warm the metal and prevent ice buildup.
This work will typically cost between US$500 and US$1,000, depending on the size of your home.
Professionals advise against using salt or other chemicals to melt snow off the roof or gutters.
These are corrosive chemicals that can damage the roof, and the runoff is harmful to grass and plants.
If the problem has reached underneath the shingles and water has begun leaking into the house, call a professional immediately.
The best way to unfreeze gutters is to keep them from getting frozen in the first place.
Hire a professional gutter cleaner every six months to clear out debris that leads to water buildup.
Debris in the downspout blocks up the water, gets frozen itself and then adds unnecessary weight.
A clear downspout will allow water to fall right through.
Also, in the off-season, consider hiring a contractor to check your roof and attic insulation and ventilation.
An overly warm attic runs a serious risk of causing rooftop ice dams and frozen gutters.
When working to prevent this, keep in mind that some freezing is inevitable.
But, by taking these steps, you can make it happen less frequently and suffer less damage when it does.
None of these are DIY jobs. Working on the roof and with ladders is dangerous work under the best of circumstances.
And frozen weather and ice-caked roofs are far from ideal.
Whomever you hire, whether to clear out the ice or keep it from coming back, make sure they carry the proper licensing required in your jurisdiction, and verify that they have liability and workers compensation insurance.
If they don’t carry the proper insurance, you could be held liable for injury to workers on your property.
— Tribune News Service