Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Trash microwave oven over safety concerns
QUESTION: I am hoping you might have a solution for getting rid of a burnt popcorn smell in a microwave oven. I have tried lemon juice, vinegar, baking soda, and even microwaving meat with a barbeque sauce on it, hoping to get rid of the smell. If I leave lemon juice and water in it with the door open, it almost disappears. But as soon as I microwave even lemon juice in water, the smoke smell predominates.
This smell came while heating up a "bed buddy," which contains grain for use on my sore joints. I have used this item for years, heating in the microwave on high for three minutes as the directions say, with never any problem. I am not sure what happened this time, but I heard a pop, and when I got to the microwave, smoke and a terrible smell was coming from the oven. There was even a burn hole in the material with lots of smoke coming out of it.
I have been working on getting rid of this smell for two weeks now. I have even washed the microwave oven inside and out with dish soap. I don't want to use anything that might be toxic to food. The microwave is not freestanding. It is boxed in against a wall over a built-in oven. Marian (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: In order to offer the safest advice available to us, I turned to a microwave manufacture. I want to share a quote I took from the General Electric website: "The popping noise is electrical or mechanical in sound, and GE recommends contacting service. If the arcing burned a hole through the cavity wall, the damage is non-repairable. You can continue to safely use the microwave if the hole is equal to or smaller than the hole size that you see on the door screen and additional arcing is not occurring during the cooking cycle. If the hole is larger than this, it is recommended that the microwave be replaced."
Sounds like the smell is coming from the microwave mechanics, which is why the odor returns even after the box of the microwave is treated. Safety is definitely an issue.
QUESTION: I would like to know if you have any suggestions to get rid of some oil spots on my paving-stone driveway? Please and thanks. Judy (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: The fresher the oil stain, the easier it is to remove. For new oil stains, cover the area with cheap kitty litter or diatomaceous earth. Leave for three hours or more and then sweep. For older stains, begin by purchasing degreaser. Cover the area with degreaser and scrub with a brush, making sure the entire grease stain is covered. Another option is to pour hot water onto stones and scrub with dish soap such as Simple Green. Leave for 10 minutes. Do not allow dish soap to sit on paving stones for an extended period of time. Scrub with a stiff brush and rinse. Caution: Do not use muriatic acid on paving stones; it is too strong and may damage the stones.
QUESTION: I was at a garage sale the other day and wanted to purchase a chair for my home. I did not have a measuring tape on hand. What else could I have used to figure out the size of the chair? Maurice (Otterburne)
ANSWER: Here are a few bits of trivia you need to know (if you don't already). On most adults, the length from the tip of your thumb to your first knuckle is one inch. Since you were at a garage sale and probably had some cash on hand, you could have used the length of paper money to measure the chair because Canadian paper currency is six inches long. Lastly, take a moment to measure the span of your hand (in case you are ever stranded on a desert island, this may come in handy). The average adult hand span measures eight inches.
Avocado answers
I found a way to liven up devilled eggs by adding one mushed-up avocado. For 12 boiled egg yolks, I add three tbsp. mayonnaise, the juice of half a lime, and salt and pepper to taste. Delicious and healthy. Submitted by Belinda
Chocolate Avocado Pudding! Into a food processor: Combine three avocados, one third cup cocoa powder, half cup milk, one third cup maple syrup and half a tsp. vanilla. Process and refrigerate. Submitted By: Cynthia
Avocado Makeover: Into a food processor combine: One avocado, one egg, 1 tbsp. olive oil. Massage onto face and hair. Heat with a hair dryer and let sit 15 minutes. Wash as usual. Submitted By: Cynthia
The fastest way to remove an avocado pit from its skin. Cut around the lengthwise circumference of the skin; twist the avocado to open it. Tap the pit with the blade of your knife, twist and pull the pit out of the skin, the pit will stay attached to the blade. Submitted By: Darren
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my website Reena.ca.
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Get professional opinion on roofing job
QUESTION: A friend noticed that the people doing her neighbour's roof had laid down felt paper this morning, before it poured for about 15 minutes. She was sort of expecting them to remove it and re-apply dry, but they shingled right over the soaking-wet paper, and left. She took a picture of the roof, and the new shingles are obviously buckling.
Should she tell her neighbours about this, or will the wet paper eventually dry and all is good? Thanks for your time. Kevin Holman
ANSWER: We all remember the experience of playing a game where several friends sit around a table or in a circle and someone begins by whispering a phrase or scenario in the next person's ear. This person then whispers it to the next, and so on until the last person tries to verbalize what they heard.
The results are rarely anything close to the original, and often quite funny. This is what often occurs when I receive inquiries like yours. Rarely is the event similar in nature to what is originally recounted, especially if it's based on a vague situation like you have described.
Firstly, I'm happy that the contractor actually used roofing felt or paper underneath the shingles, as this is good practice and not always followed. This thin helps protect the roof from leakage if there is damage or a small hole in the roofing, and to extend the life of the shingles somewhat. The extended life expectancy is nice, but the true purpose of roof felt is to shed water if the upper layer of roofing become compromised.
If this thin membrane was completely in place, with minimal holes only from staples, it may have prevented major roof leakage when the rain started. If your friend looked closely while it was raining, she may have noticed that the water easily ran off the roof. This felt material is impregnated with bitumen, making it quite moisture-resistant. It will not stand up to repeated exposure to sun and rain, but is normally quite effective when initially installed.
This means that the rain water should not have been able to easily penetrate unless there were holes or openings. That's why the roofers could likely complete the job without the attic or ceilings in the home being damaged. If this roofing membrane is able to shed the water and not absorb a substantial amount, there should be little problem with covering it with shingles when the rain stops.
Some roofers also use a squeegee or other tool designed to quickly remove excess moisture from a smooth surface. Your friend may simply have not seen this tool used.
A plastic tarpaulin may also have been laid over top of the unfinished roof once the rain started. Most roofers carry tarps in their vehicles just for such a situation, to avert a potentially disastrous leak. This may have been used but was beyond the vision of your observer.
Here's another point to consider. There are often frequent rainstorms that blow in and out during our non-winter months, especially during very hot weather. With many of these brief storms, the sun will immediately re-emerge, and can quickly dry out the surface of building materials that have become wet. t would not take long for a hot summer sun to evaporate any water sitting on the surface, especially with bitumen-impregnated paper. The natural slope of the roof would also assist in removal of any of this excessive moisture.
The last issue to address is the curling of the shingles. Most bitumen shingles designed for pitched roofs are self-sealing. What that means is that there is a small tab of adhesive on the top or bottom of each shingle, which seals it to the shingle immediately above or below. This seal is heat-activated and often requires several weeks, or even months, to properly seal.
If a roof is installed in the late fall or early winter, it may not be fully sealed until the next summer when a hot sun heats up the adhesive. For a new roof, like the one in question, the shingles would probably not be sealed yet. They also would have been pulled apart and manipulated during installation, which can also cause them to look curled or buckled until they are sealed.
When trying to determine if a job is properly completed by a contractor, one should seek the advice of a seasoned professional rather than relying on third-party hearsay from friends or neighbours.
If the buckling persists, contacting an experienced Registered Home Inspector, municipal building inspector or reputable roofing contractor may be the right move for your friend's neighbour.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Sassy tips will make your reno shine
At times the thought of renovating can be so cumbersome that doing nothing becomes an alluring alternative. We continue to take on reno jobs large and small because caring for the homes we love pays big dividends. There are practical considerations, such as replacing old wiring, heating systems and worn out materials. There may be a need to add or reconfigure space for a growing family. There are also the esthetic elements that come into play. Decorating a renovated space, especially when the budget has been slimmed down with other major work, can suffer if not planned in advance.
I make a point of creating a special touch in each room I decorate, a detail that changes the dynamics of the space in some exciting way. In her new book, designer and author Nicole Sassaman demonstrates how one or two details can transform ordinary into extraordinary. 100 Sassy Tips -- Renovations moves room by room to show what a difference her simple tips can make. The rooms have been beautifully photographed to highlight each of Sassaman's fresh ideas with before and after shots to show the contrast. Here are a few sassy tips to inspire you.
In the bathroom shown here, a rough edge on the countertop ties in with the rustic wall tile, and is an eye-catching detail. (This would be a dramatic addition to a kitchen counter or island as well.) Recessed handles in the cabinets make a smooth, clean line that has a modern touch and contrasts nicely with the rough edge and stone. The stone on the walls, usually seen on exteriors, brings the outside in and creates a natural style.
Other tips for improving a bathroom cover stealing space from an adjacent hallway or closet to enlarge the room. Modernize by changing old shower doors to frameless glass. Build in a large medicine cabinet that stretches the full length of the sink and counter space. Use the awesome array of tiles and stone to bring new life to walls.
The role of a living/family room is multifaceted. Here you have to balance lounging, entertaining, watching TV, groups and singles. Since the fireplace is the focal point, here's a chance to really up the wow quotient. Here, a fireplace with an architectural feel is surrounded by a wall of stucco designed to look like concrete. The stucco can be as rough or smooth as you choose, and can be left its natural colour (here the brown coating used under stucco was used) or painted. This surface is less expensive than tile or stone, and makes a modern statement. Floating shelves have recessed lighting that emphasizes the spare lines and is mood-enhancing. Why not mix and match furniture? Splurge on a stylish coffee table or a set of modern chairs, keep the sofa or love seat and artwork that you've collected.
In other chapters you'll discover the difference a custom door can make, either interior or exterior; how to enhance a staircase, and make an inexpensive wine cellar. Lots of inspiration... 100 ideas and counting.
Debbie Travis' House to Home column is produced by Debbie Travis and Barbara Dingle. Please email your questions to house2home@debbietravis.com.
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Poor-quality workmanship or materials leads to leaks
QUESTION: Last fall, we replaced the soffits, fascia and eavestroughs on our 40-year-old home. Now, with the melting, I see water dripping in three different spots. In one place, the water is dripping out of the spot where two troughs are joining at a corner.
When these troublesome areas freeze at night we can see several 12- to 14-cm icicles. I understand the water has to go somewhere, but I assumed it would exit through the downspouts. I see my neighbour, who also replaced his eavestroughs, is not having this same trouble.
Am I justified in my concern?
Thanks, Alison
ANSWER: The straight answer to your question is a definite yes. Newly installed eavestroughs and downspouts should not leak water, except from the areas designed to channel it out of the system. There may be a simple explanation and repair for the cause, but the underlying issue is quality of workmanship.
The root cause of the problem with your almost new roof drainage system is undoubtedly poor-quality materials or workmanship by the installers. This may range from improperly secured troughs to poor-quality sealant used at the seams. I will elaborate on several possible defects that may be present and repairs that should be undertaken before they get worse.
I would expect the contractor that installed the leaky troughs may have given you some sort of warranty and I would contact them to alert them to your problems. Many contractors of this type subcontract out various aspects of a job such as yours and they genuinely want to know when the installers are doing substandard work. A good contractor should offer to send someone to immediately inspect the job and offer to fix the issue shortly after.
One possibility for the leakage you are experiencing could be due to poor or improper fastening of the troughs to the fascia. This may be seen if the contractors use fasteners that are too short, which may only secure the troughs to the new metal fascia covering the old wood behind.
Also, short screws can become loose from the weight of snow and ice inside the troughs in the winter. This is also a possibility with any length of fastener if the old wooden fascia was partially rotten and simply covered up with the new metal without replacement.
Loose eavestroughs can also occur if the screws are tightened too much and the heads snap off from the shaft. This may go undetected by an inexperienced installer, because the head of the screw can still remain inside the clip supporting the trough when broken.
If the leakage and icicles you are seeing appear to be coming from behind the troughs themselves, improper securing is the likely cause. If the dripping is only seen at the corners, or any joints or junctions in the troughs, there may be another culprit.
Because most new eavestroughs are made from thin, pre-finished aluminum sheets, they can be difficult to properly seam together without the use of sealant at the overlapping joints. The choice and application of the sealant is the likely cause of your issue.
There are numerous types and brands of sealants or adhesives used for various applications throughout a home or building. For securing eavestroughs and waterproofing the joints, the sealant must be very moisture-resistant to prevent leaks.
A common type of waterproof sealant, readily available in caulking tubes for easy application, is silicone. This material is low in cost, very easy to apply at many temperatures due to its fluidity, and available at numerous vendors. It is often used for exterior applications, such as on aluminum eavestroughs, but it is not well-suited for this purpose.
The problem with many types of silicone caulking is they are subject to deterioration from ultraviolet radiation and other weather-related factors. After a few seasons they may lose their adhesion to the substrate or become brittle or damaged. If this was the product used at the joints on your troughs, it's the reason they are leaking.
To ensure the joints and corners of your eavestroughs are well-sealed to prevent leaking for several years, proper exterior-grade sealant must be used. There are varying qualities, colours and types of caulking that may be suitable for this purpose, with the better ones normally significantly more costly than standard silicone. Despite the extra cost, very little of this material may be required for a complete job, so overall expense would be minimal to a busy contractor.
I would tactfully inquire about the type of sealant used by the installer, when you contact the contractor to schedule the repair. If he suggests they always use standard silicone caulking and it works fine, you may want to look elsewhere to fix the leaks. If bad caulking application is the cause of your issue, repairs should be quite simple and only require removal of the old caulking and reapplication of proper material at the joints.
As with most problems or issues with new construction or renovations, they can usually be traced back to either poor workmanship or materials. If you determine the eavestroughs and downspouts were properly secured to your home, the only defect may be in having chosen the wrong sealant for the overlapping joints. In that case, removal of the leaky caulking and replacement with proper exterior-rated sealant should fix the problem, whether done by the original contractor or someone else.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com