Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Batt insulation can lead to mould grief
An uninsulated basement can account for up to 30 per cent of the total energy loss of a house.
This chilling statistic has motivated many homeowners to reduce their monthly electric or gas heating bills by insulating their basements with fibreglass or stone-wool batts.
Here's the rub: Though this is the cheapest method of insulating, both types of batts can cause more problems than they solve, including mould growth with serious health consequences.
To save on construction costs, most new basements are not insulated on the exterior side with below-grade foam board or other approved materials. If your basement lacks proper exterior insulation (and it likely does unless built to R-2000 standards), moisture and cold will migrate from the exterior to the interior side of your basement. In this case, fibreglass batts are a poor choice of insulation because they absorb moisture formed by cold and warm air condensing on the interior side of a concrete wall, greatly reducing the insulation's stated R-value. Moreover, fresh concrete has a high water content, which takes a long time to dissipate, causing ice to form during winter months on interior basement walls behind the insulation. In spring when the ice melts, water will infiltrate the batts or, if the concrete walls have been partly covered by a six-mil vapour barrier as recommended in the building code, run behind the vapour barrier and puddle on or under the floor. Trapped moisture creates a petri-dish-like environment that promotes the rapid growth of mould; some types of this fungus can colonize (move to another area) in less than a week.
I noticed recently Manitoba Hydro replaced a video on how to insulate your basement using fibreglass with an updated version using Roxul instead. Roxul is a stone-wool product spun into batts that repel water and dry more quickly than fibreglass. The theory is moisture trapped inside the insulation or between the insulation and basement wall will dissipate before mould spores begin to grow. This is wishful thinking, as some spores are capable of germinating in 24 to 48 hours, while moisture inside insulated walls can take months to completely dry. This leaves plenty of time for mould to become well-established. In fact, most basements insulated with some form of batt will contain mould.
An initial clue to the presence of mould is a musty smell; however, until the problem gets completely out of control and the mould migrates to the outside of a finished basement wall, the only way to confirm the presence of the fungus is to remove a sheet of drywall and examine the insulation. The generic term "black mould" is commonly used to describe several types of fungus that grow in basements. If you have a serious mould problem, the insulation, wall studs and plates will be covered in black fungus that looks like soot. In less advanced situations, the batts will contain marble-like streaks of black, also visible on structural members of the wall. Mould lives on wood fibre and cellulose in paper that covers drywall. The only way to rid a basement of this unsightly and potentially toxic fungus is to tear out all the infested walls, increase filtered air flow and wash the walls, floors and ceilings with one cup household bleach to a gallon of water. (There are other premixed chemicals available from big-box stores, or you can hire a contractor to do the job for you.)
Knowing these disturbing facts, it's curious Manitoba Hydro continues to recommend the use of batt insulation in basements through its Power Smart initiative. Even more disturbing is the 2010 National Building Code of Canada, a source of Hydro's residential construction suggestions, still allows batt insulation to be used in basements, even though North America's best building scientists have been stating for years that batt insulation should never be used in basements. (Hydro spokesman Peter Kidd said the corporation could be "showing people a variety of materials" with which to insulate basements "but batt insulation has been around for a long time and proved effective in most cases.")
Effective alternatives to batts include spray foam, solid sheets of expanded polystyrene (xps) and polyisocyanurate (polyiso), as well as a new Hydro-approved product that incorporates polymer studs and sheets to create an integrated basement-insulation system.
Polyurethane spray foam is an excellent product for insulating basement walls because it expands and seals the smallest declivities and cracks in concrete and acts as a vapour barrier at the same time. It has a high insulation value of about R-7 per inch.
The cons are spray foam is the most expensive insulation on the market, and, if not applied in the correct chemical ratio, it will not set properly, creating a fishy smell and a potential health problem due to continuous off-gassing.
Xps and polyiso are polymer-based boards (generally sold in four-by-eight-foot panels) with insulation values of about R-4.5 and R-6.5 per inch, respectively. They will not absorb moisture and can be used to insulate interior basement walls by gluing them directly to the concrete with construction adhesive formulated for polymers; then sealing the joints with tape or canned spray foam. The downside to this technique is there is no wood frame on which to screw a finish covering such as drywall. Some people glue drywall directly to the insulation board, but this technique is not recommended, as it does not properly secure the drywall to the substrate. The alternative is to build a wood-frame wall and cut the insulation to friction-fit between the studs and plates, sealing the join between the wood and insulation with bottled spray foam. This method is more expensive and labour-intensive, but it will ensure a solid structure to which Gyproc or other materials can be screwed or nailed.
The cons to polymer-based boards are the high cost compared to fibreglass or Roxul and, as mentioned, the need to build a frame wall to properly support the exterior finish. A less expensive alternative is to construct a hybrid wall consisting of one-inch sheets of xps or polyiso glued to the concrete and a wood frame filled with fibreglass or mineral-wool batts placed over top. This method is also compatible with commercially applied spray foam.
A new product recently approved for Hydro Power Smart programs is the Quick-Therm Basement and Concrete Insulation System. It is called a system because it is comprised of individual parts that fit together to form an integrated envelope that seals air leaks and prevents moisture infiltration in basement walls. Moreover, it is simple for a DIYer to install with a minimal selection of tools. The main components are polystyrene panels covered both sides with a shiny material that reflects radiant heat back into the basement or reflects cold air back into the concrete wall. High-density polymer studs are attached to the panels by a tongue-and-groove joint that is sealed with window and door spray foam. A polymer gasket seals the panels and studs to the basement floor. There is no thermal bridging (heat transfer) between the polymer studs or the panels, which are held tight to the wall with two plastic concrete fasteners.
The con to this system is higher cost compared to batts. However, at about $3 per square foot, it is less expensive than spray foam at $5 to $6 per square foot, but not much more expensive to install than a framed basement wall containing two layers of R-14 Roxul. And that wall could cost you a fortune to remove and replace if mould spores germinate inside of it.
davidsquare81@yahoo.com
Renovation & Design
What to do when leather furniture fades
QUESTION: We have four light tan leather chairs and the sun has yellowed parts of them that were not shaded by a table. What can we do to restore them so they look uniform? George, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Discolouration is most prevalent on dark colours. Leather-repair kits are available online or in stores, although matching the colour is difficult and can often accent the area instead of hiding it. Leather recolouring balm is a great option because you don't need an exact colour match. Rub balm onto the surface, the leather becomes softer and all colours blend together well. Leather protective products help prevent this from occurring.
QUESTION: I find your hints helpful. I am especially interested in the details on boiling perogies as I am planning to make a first-time batch with a friend's help. Where can I buy netted gem potatoes? My friend told me to buy that kind and I didn't want to let her know I didn't know what they were. Also, what size cutter should I use to cut the perogy dough? If I want to put bacon in the potatoes, do I cook it first? She also said she could teach me how to make holubtsi and I would like to know how to pick the right kind of cabbage? Are small ones better? Thanks for your help. Heidy, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Netted gem is just another name for russet potatoes. Roll dough so it is one-quarter inch thick and use a 3-inch round cutter to cut the dough. Cook the bacon until crisp before adding it to the dough; chop finely. Regarding Ukrainian stuffed cabbage rolls known as holubtsi or little pigeons; use thin, loose green-leafed cabbage. The size depends on how many cabbage rolls you wish to make.
FUN FACT: Next to the potato, cabbage is the second most popularly consumed vegetable in the world.
Feedback from caring Manitobans
Re: Looking for unscented dish-soap solution
Hi Reena,
Recently, I was shopping at Bulk Barn and saw a soap display by the The Soap Works. They had some plain soaps with no perfume and some were vegetable-based. I've had lots of trouble with soap sensitivity so first I tried the cucumber and calendula with great results. I then went to their website and found some rave reviews on some other soap including their vegetable-based glycerin. I think that Donna might find it just the thing to make her dish soap from. They also have a laundry bar, laundry powder and safe bleach -- these and other bar soaps can be checked out at http://puresoapworks.com/ Some of the items are more pricey but the soaps are very affordable, starting at about $1.99. Barb
Hello Reena,
I read your suggestion for the woman who has asthma that she use leftover soap slivers to make dish soap. While this will work, it is not the best solution because soap that's been sitting around in a damp soap dish is often laden with germs. Allowing it to dissolve in water would likely promote further germ growth. I also have asthma, and have found a commercial product that works for me -- Seventh Generation Free and Clear, available at London Drugs (and maybe other stores). You have to be careful not to select one of Seventh Generation's scented varieties, but the Free and Clear product has no scent and doesn't make my eczema worse. For laundry detergent, Tide also makes an unscented product. Joanne
Common household dangers
-- Old wiring: Consider hiring an electrician to update wiring in homes built before 1940. While this may be expensive, it could save you thousands in the long run.
-- Plants: Before choosing both indoor and outdoor plants, do your research. Some plant species such as Castor Bean are poisonous when consumed by humans, insects and/or pets.
-- Standing water: A small child can drown in water with a depth of one inch or more. Often forgotten dangers include: Outside buckets under downspout, toilet, sink, mop bucket, diaper pail and garden ornaments.
-- Poisonous gases: Radon and carbon-monoxide detectors are inexpensive units and make thoughtful birthday gifts. Radon is a colourless and odourless gas that seeps up from the soil through cracks in the foundation. Radon levels are highest in basements and crawl spaces because of poor ventilation. Carbon monoxide is a colourless, odorless gas that can overcome you without warning.
I enjoy your questions and tips, so keep them coming. Check out: Reena.ca.
Renovation & Design
Table talk
Eating meals at a long countertop that faces a wall is not conducive to sparkling conversations or creating a close-knit family.
That's one reason Jenny and Trevor MacVicar decided to renovate the kitchen in their century-old home on Kingsway in the Crescentwood neighbourhood.
"When we bought the house in 2003, we were just beginning a family. We now have four kids aged 10, seven, three and nine months," said Jenny MacVicar, an accountant currently on maternity leave.
The couple's new kitchen has room for a table and six chairs, a space where the burgeoning family can face each other directly during meals and conduct group homework sessions.
"The school-aged kids were so enamoured of the family table that they decided to do their homework at it together. It became a family event, with the three-year-old adding some suggestions of his own," said MacVicar.
Another reason for the renovation was to update a kitchen that had changed very little since 1904, when Crescentwood was developed by real estate agent Charles H. Enderton.
The kitchen still had a door that opened onto a stairway once used by a butler when he was summoned by a buzzer to attend to the wishes of a family member on the second or third floor.
The stairway and a large steam radiator were removed during the renovation. This created extra space that was turned into a storage closet with double oak doors framed with traditional oak casing.
To further enlarge the area, load-bearing walls were knocked down and replaced with hidden beams, increasing access to the kitchen from the living room and making room for wall-to-ceiling cabinets and an L-shaped countertop.
The countertop is made of granite with an undermount sink and a backsplash of long, rectangular crema marble tiles. LED strip lighting is recessed under some of the cabinets.
Worn linoleum was stripped from the floor and replaced with heated tiles that are easy on the feet and compensate for the heat that was lost when the steam radiator was taken out.
The ceiling was lowered to add pot lights and replace old-fashioned knob and tube wiring with up-to-date cable and electrical boxes.
"About two-thirds of our house has been converted to modern wiring, and new cables are in position to be extended to the top storey when we decide to continue renovating," said MacVicar.
The couple has spent about $140,000 on the project, about 25 per cent more than originally budgeted, because they decided to add air-conditioning and other amenities in mid-renovation.
She said contractor Tony Teunis of All Canadian Renovations kept them apprised of how much they had spent at each stage of the reno and completed most of the work within his three-month time estimate.
"We chose Tony because we met him at a home exhibit in Winnipeg, and of the dozen or so contractors we interviewed, he was the most experienced and had a very reliable track record," said MacVicar, adding a family member had read a story about Teunis in the Winnipeg Free Press.
"He's a reassuring person to work with," she said. "Whenever I became anxious about something, he would reply, 'That's no problem. We'll take care of it.' "
MacVicar said Teunis's crew consisted of excellent craftsmen who were polite and never left a mess at the end of the day.
Like many people who have experienced a renovation, she suggested planning ahead for a place to stay for the duration of the work. In her case, the entire family lived on the third floor, which was already equipped with a two-burner hot plate, a microwave and a bar fridge.
"It was cosy and fun, kind of like an extra-long family camping trip," she said.
In the future, Jenny and Trevor plan to add a new entrance to their home, build an ensuite for the master bedroom and add insulation to exterior walls.
"It's a few years down the road, but Tony will be the man we contact when the time comes," she said.
Meanwhile, let it be noted the family that dines and studies together, stays together.
davidsquare81@yahoo.com
Renovation & Design
Public wants knowledgeable, friendly staff
Recently, I had the opportunity to take part in a planning session hosted by the Western Retail Lumber Association. The board of directors and invited guests were led through a daylong exercise in analyzing the association and the industry for the road ahead. The program facilitator introduced a number of topics, but one that stuck with me was the professional development of staff, especially in front-line jobs that were face to face with the public.
It is so critically important that those individuals who interact with the public are knowledgeable about the products and services they represent. In the case of the WRLA, discussion centred on those who are assisting the walk-in public and those who work with professional contractors. At first glance, one might think those who are dealing with contractors must have greater technical expertise and be more familiar with the products. Not so. Professionals generally come into the store with more product knowledge and know exactly what they want. The amateur handyman may need more expert guidance and advice; also more patience from service personnel.
The message was both client groups are equally important and the same level of expertise within staff is required for both. As someone who occasionally stains a cedar deck, replaces switches, installs railings or performs myriad small repairs, I appreciate the expert advice I receive from my local building supplier.
That then got me thinking about other first-contact personnel in the new-home and renovation industries. No matter how good your product is, if the first point of contact is an unpleasant one, you may have trouble selling that product. Who answers the phone? Who responds to emails? Who greets you upon entering the premises? Is the company website inviting and informative? Is there a contact for questions or complaints? All of these can make or break your business.
I guess that's why I have a problem understanding cross-border shopping for building materials and home-renovation products. I concede you may be able to save money on the purchase price due to our tax structure. However, who is there to help you throughout the process? How do you take back the extra can of stain or the box of screws? Even worse, who is going to tell you a particular product isn't CSA approved and therefore isn't warranted to be installed in Manitoba?
I'm not saying buy only Canadian-manufactured products or never shop outside of our province; however, I am advising to take advantage of the expertise and assistance you can only get locally from personnel trained to take care of your specific building needs.
Mike Moore is president of the Manitoba Home Builders' Association
Renovation & Design
Plenty of good advice at renovation show
The Kitchen Bath and Renovation Show was last weekend, and it was a tremendous success with excellent crowds and a buzz of excitement in the air as the RBC Convention Centre was full of attendees with renovation projects in mind. Important information was shared throughout the weekend, so I wanted to talk about some highlights from the stage presentations I saw.
Tony Teunis and Mike Kerr from All Canadian Renovations emphasized the importance of hiring a contractor who adheres to the RenoMark code of ethics. It is critical you are provided with a detailed written contract for your job. Your renovator must carry adequate liability insurance, have workplace safety and health coverage, offer a two-year warranty and take out all applicable licences and permits.
Joe Wedge from Penta Spray Foam delivered a simple message: build tight, ventilate right. This mantra will ensure comfortable living conditions and peace of mind.
Megan Hemenway from The Ensuite gave a terrific presentation on universal design and accessibility. She talked about hand showers and slide bars and their practical application. For those who prefer baths, there is the accessibility bathtub with comfort side seating. Hemenway is a certified Aging in Place specialist. The Manitoba Home Builders Association will be offering this certification training in February, and it's certain to be an extremely popular course.
Ramsin Khachi delivered a couple of stage presentations courtesy of Flo Form and Cambria. He opened by dispelling myths about trends. The only important trend is the one that complements your lifestyle. I particularly enjoyed his tips on caulking bathroom tiles. He advises against the practice of running your finger along the corner as it feathers the edges and allows water to penetrate. He pre-tapes the corners for a strong bond, caulks and then removes the tape. Someone in the audience shared that they use a popsicle stick for caulking.
Ramsin shared some photos of his garage renovation. Anticipating trends, he has installed outlets for an electric car recharging station. Although the recycling bin is in the open, he hides the smelly garbage in a closet in the garage with a ventilation system.
I could go on for pages about all of the things I learned from each presentation, each booth and each person working the various booths. There was a wealth of information available to all attendees. I'm already looking forward to the next opportunity to learn more about improving my home at the Home Expressions Home and Garden Show on March 27, 28 and 29 at the RBC Convention Centre Winnipeg.
Mike Moore is president of the Manitoba Home Builders' Association
Renovation & Design
Natural stone, quartz head up favourites for kitchens and baths
Question: We are selecting new countertops for our kitchen and bathroom. I definitely want granite in the kitchen, but I'm thinking of a less costly option for the bathrooms (our master bath, a powder room and an upstairs full bathroom for the kids). What are your thoughts on quartz versus granite, and what do you suggest for the bathrooms?
Answer: You are wise to research your options for countertops as kitchens and bathrooms are typically the rooms that experience the most architectural advancements -- when it comes to design and technology -- than any other room in the house. Whether it is flooring, lighting, cabinetry, surfaces, or fixtures, these rooms continuously challenge designers and manufacturers to develop the next wave of functional style.
There are several options to consider:
Laminates
These have come a long way from the sharp-edged, glossy coverings of the 1950s. New technologies have developed profiled edges and new colours and patterns that complement a plethora of wall and cabinet finishes. Look for names such as Formica and Arborite. Laminates are a good value, but they can be damaged by heat or scuffing.
Solid
Solid surfaces are durable man-made products that are composed of acrylic polymers. These homogeneous surfaces come in a variety of colours and patterns that can be machined to provide a great number of profile edges, making their design more unique. Corian is a major name in the industry. Although solid surfaces are extremely stain resistant, they can be damaged with extreme heat, and while this surface is practical, it isn't terribly exciting to look at.
Natural stone
In this class are granites, slate, soapstone, marble and onyx, just to name a few. These have been growing in popularity for both kitchen and bath designs due to their luxurious appearance. Stone is resistant to heat and sharp objects, but acids can etch the surface if not cleaned quickly.
Natural stone is at the higher end on the price point and may require additional upkeep (some surfaces are recommended to be sealed and waxed periodically). Despite that, stone's great range of natural beauty has made it a top contender for countertop options.
Quartz
A close rival to the natural-stone options, quartz counters are comprised of quartz crystal combined with binding agents and colours. The results provide a beautiful product with increased durability. Quartz tends to be less costly than natural stone, while improving on some of its limitations such as acid etching and dark pigment staining.
A new wave
As I mentioned, there are always new products showing up in kitchens and bathrooms, and countertops are boasting machined surfaces devised from stainless steel, cement, wood and tiles. Each is unique and interesting, but they all require special considerations. Sealed edges, waterproof finishes and mildew-resistant grouting must be applied for these finishes to be functional in your high-action spaces.
With all of the options available, you will need to consider your budget and preferences, and maintenance of each option. Natural stone and quartz are leaders in kitchen counters, with solid finishes close behind. Powder rooms and master suites also show off natural stone and quartz, but the softer effect of solid or manufactured stone for secondary baths is very popular.
Question: I am remodelling a bedroom for our new baby (due in February). Could I put picture frame moulding around the bedroom door and bi-fold closets to add some interest? They are currently ribbon grain mahogany and look rather dull. Thanks.
Answer: Congratulations on your new baby. This is an exciting time for you. You can definitely add some architectural detailing to the doors, but be prepared to remove them from their hinges first. Since it's likely a hollow-core door, you shouldn't nail the frame to it. You will instead need to adhere the frame moulding with glue, and that will require you to lay the door flat so that the pieces can set properly.
If you get your frame cut and bevelled at a wood finishing store, you can adhere the pieces with heavy-duty, double-sided tape (look for it at your local hardware store). Rough up your surface so the tape can adhere well. Position your frame on the door and mark with a pencil. Place the tape on the frame and press onto your door. Add each section until complete.
Apply paintable caulking to the edge to seal it to the door and fill in any gaps. Using your finger or a damp cloth, smooth out the caulking edge. Let dry and paint the door a colour that works with your nursery choice.
This process can be applied to the bi-fold doors as well. Or consider removing the doors and replacing them with a curtain rod and draperies in a fun fabric. This adds personality to the room while eliminating pinched fingers later.
Leanne Brownoff is an Edmonton business consultant with vast experience in interior design.