Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Ice damming issues building up
QUESTION: I'm hoping you'll be able to help us resolve our dilemma. We have a 1 1/2-storey older home with two dormers and during the winter we had ice build up on the roof along the dormers, resulting in water damage to our kitchen and bathroom ceilings.
The upstairs has knee walls and the cubby holes are used as closet and storage space. These spaces have been insulated with two-inch-thick tongue-and-groove Styrofoam boards along the sloped ceiling and the outside wall. We believe that the actual roof line only has wood shavings for insulation, which have settled over time.
We put a new roof on the house seven years ago and, at that time, an ice and water shield was installed on the lower section of the roof and in the valleys. The roof has no overhang or soffits.
We have had various opinions as to the cause of this damage, from not enough insulation to not enough air flow and ventilation. We have been given several options to remedy the problem, but we don't know which is the best solution and the most economical. The first suggestion is to take the whole roof off, take out all the insulation, reinsulate with blown-in foam or batting, build up the roof with 2 X 4's, extend the eaves and re-sheet and shingle the roof.
A second suggestion is to remove all the shingles and apply ice- and weather-guard over the entire roof and reshingle. The final suggestion is to install vents in the lower part of the roof into the knee-wall cavity and keep this area as a cold space.
As I'm sure you can appreciate, the first option is very expensive. Do you have any suggestions whether any or all or a combination of these suggestions would solve our problem? I would appreciate your thought and expertise on this matter.
Thank you, Chris Beckwith
ANSWER: Ice damming and moisture issues in 1 1/2- and 2 1/2-storey homes is one of the most common issues I deal during my inspections. I get more inquiries, emails, and calls about this issue than almost any other. With the recently returned winter-like weather this should be an ideal time to address your dilemma as I have begun to see the typical ice damming you describe on many homes.
While you have been given three different options, I cannot dismiss all of them or recommend one single approach. There are portions of each of options one and three that may be possible, but may not be practical due to cost and difficulty. The second option is a very bad idea proposed by someone who has no concept of the causes of your issues and will probably make the problem worse and accentuate moisture damage in the roof system.
While there may be varying opinions on different practical approaches to fixing your ice damming issues and stopping the moisture intrusion, the cause should not be in dispute. The cause of the ice damming is warm air intrusion into the knee-wall attics and roof system in your home. Warm air is able to gain entry into the attics and ceiling cavities in your home through various areas by a process known as the "Stack Effect." That is simply a fancy name given to the natural forces that allow warm, moist air to rise into these areas.
In most homes this air contains a significant amount of dissolved moisture, which can condense when cooled. If cold enough, this condensation may freeze and create a fair amount of frost inside the cavities. When the winter weather warms, this frost will melt and run back down into the living space. Also, the heat from the air leaking into these cavities will warm the underside of the roof sheathing, melting the snow on the roof and creating the ice dams. These dams can also melt when the weather warms and run back into the building, especially in homes like yours with no overhanging eaves.
The two approaches to solving this common dilemma are either stop the air leakage into these areas or provide enough fresh air ventilation to remove this warm air to the exterior before it warms the roof or condenses. My recommendations are normally to work on ways of doing a bit of both of these items, while reducing the relative humidity in the home.
The first approach you have been presented with ignores the ventilation aspect of the situation and addresses only the air leakage. While this is the more modern approach, only if blown-in foam insulation is used and not batts, it may be a very costly solution. It also should not be necessary to build up the thickness of the rafters, as has been suggested, because the focus is on stopping air leakage not heat loss. The theory is that if you stop any air leakage into the space below the roof sheathing, you will prevent any mechanism for condensation. Also, adding that thickness of high density polyurethane foam will provide adequate protection from heat loss to minimize the ice damming.
In many ways, this one-stop solution addresses both causes of the moisture damage, but will require removal of significant sections of the roof decking and complete replacement of the roofing.
The next, more common, approach is to significantly improve the insulation and ventilation level in the attic floors and knee-walls and air seal or install air/vapour barriers where possible. This can be achieved by use of a combination of insulation such as blown-in polyurethane, extruded polystyrene sheets, and cellulose fibre.
This method will require you to give up your closet space and return the knee-wall areas back into attics, but can be quite effective if done properly. The foam insulation installed on the underside of your rafters and gable ends is an improper method of achieving this and should be removed because it is installed in the wrong locations.
The only flaw in this traditional method is the sloped sections in the living space of the upper floor, which may be difficult to insulation and seal from inside the home. Ignoring these areas may still allow some ice dams to build up and premature wear to the roofing above.
Before deciding on the proper approach to addressing this issue you should weigh the overall benefits of each method against the costs. While the exterior foam only method will allow you to keep some of your closets and will be the least disruptive, it may be beyond your budget.
The traditional insulation and ventilation method may allow you to do some of the work yourself, but may not be a complete fix without some air sealing by a professional and will require a loss of storage space and ceiling height.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Restore glitter to Christmas ornaments
QUESTION: What is the best technique to clean dusty old Christmas ornaments? They are very precious to me because they were collected over the years by my mother and father. Julia, Carberry
ANSWER: Carefully remove any stuck-on debris with a dry, soft, microfibre cloth and then dust it lightly with a feather duster. Avoid water or cleaners under any circumstances or you will wipe away hand paint and colour.
QUESTION: I am a grandmother of 13 grandchildren and I am getting ready to pull my tree out for this season. I don't sew but I would like to finish the bottom of my Christmas tree with a tree skirt. Do you know of anything I can use without spending money on an actual tree skirt? Birdie, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Cut a hole in the centre of an old tablecloth. From the centre hole cut to the outer edge in a straight line. It does not have to be perfectly straight. Leave plain or decorate with paint. You can even have your grandchildren dip their hands in paint and press them onto the skirt to make the tree skirt extra special. Make sure to use fabric paint so you are able to wash the tree skirt.
QUESTION: I recently purchased a black purse that is made of microfibre. I wonder if you could tell me the best way to clean the surface of it, if and when it gets dirty or stains? Thanks so much, Carol, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You should be able to locate a care label on the inside of the bag. This label will tell you if it's safe to use water on your specific microfibre handbag. If it is, wash it by hand in the sink according to the directions. If water is not recommended, pour baking soda onto any dirty areas and swipe it back and forth with a stiff brush dampened in water. Allow purse to air dry.
QUESTION: Every Monday my boss puts a hot coffee on the desk of everyone in the office (she is a wonderful boss). This week we want to surprise her by putting a hot drink on her desk. Can you give me a recipe for Candy Cane Hot Chocolate? Much appreciated, Tess, Winnipeg
ANSWER: In a saucepan, heat 4 cups of milk until hot (divide the recipe in half if desired). Whisk in three ounces of chopped semisweet chocolate squares as well as four crushed candy canes. Stir until melted and smooth. Pour into mugs and top with whipped cream and shaved chocolate. Slide candy cane into mug for a stir stick.
QUESTION: I have a set of stoneware dishes from PTS International Interiors (pattern Fantasia), which are dishwasher and microwave safe. I love the pattern but the dinner plates have a white centre and, unfortunately, over the years, have become unattractive with cutlery marks. I have tried gently using a cleanser but because I don't want to destroy the finish, I have not applied a lot of pressure and this certainly did not remove the marks.
Do you know of any product or action that would remove these unsightly marks? Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Marilea, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Begin by trying to "erase" the marks with a pencil eraser when the dishes are dry. As well, there is a product called Zud that has had encouraging results at removing such marks. Or make a paste of baking soda and water and rub the marks out of all dishes. If marks remain, they are likely permanent.
Fabulous tips of the week:
To tell if your holiday fruitcake is done, touch the top of the cake; if done, it should spring back readily.
If time is limited, and if you're on a budget, consider making your gingerbread house using graham crackers. Use a can of white icing, stiffened with confectioner's sugar, to make the mortar for your graham cracker walls and roof, and then as glue for the candy decorations.
Whether you are young, or old or in-between, take the time to make a gingerbread house to use as a table centrepiece. When company arrives, place a round gingerbread cookie on each person's table setting. Use a stencil and icing sugar to monogram everyone's cookie.
Making meatballs can be time-consuming, here is an easy solution. Purchase pre-formed frozen meatballs. Place them in a crock pot. Pour a can of chilli sauce over top of the meatballs. Add a jar of cranberry sauce and cook on low for six to eight hours. Serve.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., R0A 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Do it yourself
Book helps you see the light on lighting
ONE aspect of home design that all interior designers agree on is the ability of lighting to transform a space. Not sure where to begin? Grab The Home Lighting Effects Bible (Firefly Books Ltd., 256 pages), a new book by lighting specialist Lucy Martin.
Martin walks readers through the principles of good lighting, pointing out that different rooms have different lighting requirements. She explains the difference between task lighting and ambient lighting and, through colour illustrations, shows homeowners the abundance of choices available.
If you get excited shopping for chandeliers, or pondering the merits of pendants versus track lighting, this is the book for you.
How to achieve the perfect paint finish
THE fastest and most cost-effective way to spruce up the interior of your house is to give your house a fresh coat of paint. Choosing a paint colour might be the most fun part of painting, but don't overlook the real work. Here's how to achieve a perfect finish, courtesy of DIY Network Canada's Fresh Coat.
* If you're planning on painting the trim, walls and ceiling, paint the trim first.
* For an ultra-smooth finish, sand the trim between coats.
* Before you start painting the walls, give them a good cleaning. (TSP works especially well.) This will ensure the paint really adheres to the walls.
* To get a seamless finish and avoid lap marks, roll the full height of the wall and keep a wet edge on your roller.
* If you're painting a very large space, consider mixing several cans of paint in a large bucket. This will ensure that you have a consistent colour throughout the room.
* If you're using tape along edges to achieve a straight line, let the paint dry, then cut the tape loose.
-- Postmedia News
Renovation & Design
Here's some sage advice
QUESTION: I have been reading your columns for years and have always thought about asking a question, but I have not until now. I remember you writing a column a few years ago about growing herbs indoors. While you did describe the basic requirements for most herbs, you did not go into the specific needs for individual herbs.
I am planning to grow some herbs indoors I have never grown before. The list includes tarragon, camomile and sage. Can you explain the individual needs of these plants?
ANSWER: Thank you for being such a faithful reader. Your question got me thinking and I looked up the old column. I think I need to address the individual needs for some of the herbs.
Tarragon: This plant likes to be grown in a sunny spot and prefers the soil to be well-drained. It does not need the soil to be high in nutrients, so a regular potting mix with added compost will work well.
Use two parts potting mix to one part compost. Make sure there are drainage holes in the container. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Add to the soil a small amount of slow-release fertilizer pellets designed for pots.
Look for these in garden centres -- the formula is usually 12-12-12 or 14-14-14. You can expect the tarragon to grow in the same container for one to three years.
Camomile: This herb likes to have as much light as possible. In Canadian winters with low light levels, you may need to supplement the light with an artificial source such as a Gro-Light. Regular potting mix with compost is the soil of choice. Add slow-release pellets at planting time.
This is another herb that prefers soil that's moist, but not wet. German camomile will wilt easily if not kept moist. A word of warning: Camomile will do quite well on the balcony in the summer in containers, but can struggle indoors.
Sage: This herb can be easily grown indoors as long as you can offer it direct sunlight for six hours a day.
With sage, as with any sun-loving herb, it is a good idea to rotate the pot occasionally as the plant will begin to lean toward the light if you do not.
All-purpose potting mix makes a great choice for sage and there is no need to add organic matter for this plant. You can add one part perlite or sharp sand to two parts potting mix to help the drainage. Sage will not tolerate having its feet wet, so allow the top of the soil to dry out. Make sure the pot has drainage holes, as well. Wait for one year, then harvest as needed.
Basil: This plant likes a lot of sunlight -- six to eight hours would be best. It also likes a high organic content in its soil, so use a pure compost and no potting mix. You can find bags of compost in most garden centres. Fertilizing is easy if you use slow-release fertilizer pellets. Harvest the top leaves first. The plant is a pick-and-come-again type. This means it will produce more leaves from where you picked. You can freeze the leaves for later use or dry them. Keep basil moist, but never wet.
Parsley: An easy herb to grow and one that will tolerate some shade, but prefers full sun. The plant is a little fussy about the soil, so pure compost will work just fine. The added benefit of planting in compost is it is excellent at holding moisture. The same cannot be said about potting mixes. Ensure the soil does not dry out between waterings. Again, the rule of thumb is moist, but never wet. Fertilize with slow-release pellets and harvest as needed. This plant does not do well in its second year, so it is best to plant new each year.
Rosemary: Perhaps my favourite herb and another easy one to grow. Plant in all-purpose potting mix. Add coarse gravel to the bottom of the pot when planting to ensure the drainage holes remain open. Rosemary hates having its feet wet, as well. When watering, stick your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle. If the soil feels dry, it is time to water. The plant likes lots of sunlight, but will tolerate some shade. Rosemary does not need a lot of nutrients to be happy -- something like a compost tea applied once a month will do nicely. When harvesting, just snip off a branch as needed.
-- Postmedia News
Gerald Filipski is a member of the Garden Writers Association of America.
