Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Replacement likely better than repair with old furnace
Question: Two weeks ago, I had a new air conditioner installed, because the old one was giving us loads of problems. And just a couple of days ago, our blower fan stopped working. We had the same guys come back and check it out. We were told that we should buy a new furnace, because replacing the blower fan for this particular model of furnace wouldn’t be worth it. We currently have a mid-efficiency furnace. It all seems awfully fishy, although they are saying it’s just a coincidence and they can’t do anything about it. Are we being taken for a ride here? Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you so much,
Kohen K.
Answer: Replacement of major parts on older furnaces is not normally a good investment, due to the limited time remaining on the rest of the components, that may also fail shortly. You may be able to ensure that you are not just being upsold by calling in a neutral third party, or the gas utility, to verify the problem and agree with or contradict the opinion of the initial HVAC contractor.
Upgrading to a newer high-efficiency furnace, from your current mid-efficient model, will make sense, as long as the original furnace is not less than 15 years old. They have not manufactured the approx. 80% efficient older ones for about that long, so it is doubtful that yours is newer. If it is over 20 years old, it is certainly nearing the end of its typical life expectancy, anyway. Putting in a new blower or motor, at a cost of up to $1000, is not money well spent. That would be compounded by the loss savings on natural gas, as all new furnaces should exceed 90 per cent efficiency and many claim to be 95 per cent or higher. What that means is that more than 90 per cent of the fuel is directly converted to heat, so very little is wasted. The savings will not only be in your pocketbook, but also for the environment, with lower carbon emissions.
It is possible that the installation of the new air conditioner (A/C) did have a negative impact on the older blower or motor. The inside coil for the A/C would have to be removed and replaced, along with the refrigerant lines. This requires cutting or removing a section of the metal plenum, which is attached to the furnace cabinet. Sometimes that will be completely detached from the furnace, to allow for installation of new ducting that will better accommodate the new coil. That process can cause the furnace to move, or be jostled about, possibly dislodging or loosening something on the blower or motor. If those parts were already deteriorated, that could push them over the edge, and cause a failure. It may take a few days or weeks to notice that defect, especially if the A/C technician did not inspect the blower and ensure it was still serviceable.
Unfortunately, it may be impossible to blame the damage to the blower on the HVAC contractor, due to the age and unknown condition before they showed up. If there was a subtle to loud wining noise when the blower started up, then typical age-related damage to the bearings is likely. This can often be detected by a slow start-up of the blower, and/or very quick shut down, once the heating cycle is complete. There may also be a chance that worn wiring connections, or deteriorated wires, were further damaged during the new upgrade, causing the problem. However, that should be a moderately easy repair and not require blower replacement. Alternatively, if the electronic controls for the furnace are the cause of the malfunction, it may be a similar scenario to a worn-out blower. It may not be worth the money diagnosing the problem, and certainly not a good bang-for-the-buck putting in any new parts. You may be able to verify what the HVAC contractor is saying by hiring another neutral technician to check the system. Also, Manitoba Hydro may provide this complimentary service, as a courtesy, to make sure their customer is not being taken advantage of.
Not only will the new furnace be a lower cost to run, it should improve the entire performance of your HVAC systems in the home. Due to advancements in furnace designs and components, it will provide better airflow for heating, and slightly lower gas bills. It will also make the new air conditioner work more effectively in cooling the home. That is because the new blower should deliver a much larger volume of air through the ducts, especially since the older one was deteriorated. In fact, poor airflow across the cooling coil can cause it too freeze up, or otherwise provide improper cooling for your house. In the worst-case scenario, the poorly working old blower may have contributed to the A/C unit’s premature failure. That is a likely candidate for some of the causes of the “loads of problems” you noted.
It may take a long time for the energy savings from upgrading your furnace to pay back the cost of replacement, but it will still be money wisely spent. Lower energy costs, better heat and cooling distribution, and less stress on the new A/C system are all good reasons to change your furnace. Even if the HVAC contractor is not being completely transparent in their role in the demise of your old blower, upgrading the furnace is the better choice, rather than trying to fix the old unit. Perhaps asking for a discount on the cost of replacement, due to the timing of the problems, may be a better approach that will lighten the load on your bank account.
Replacing an older furnace at the same time as the A/C system makes a lot of sense, but is certainly necessary due to the malfunction of the older blower. Calling another HVAC contractor for their opinion, or Manitoba Hydro for a neutral evaluation, should help ease your mind that replacement is the proper course of action to take.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and a Registered Home Inspector (RHI)(cahpi.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Keeps those chips crisp with a clip
Question: What is the best way to store potato chips so that they last a long time? Thank you, Elma
Answer: The easiest solution for fresh chips is to, chip clip the bag so that no air or moisture find their way into the bag. If you don’t have a chip clip, use a hair clip or a rubber band. Freeze the bag. Pull out handfuls as needed. If you already have a bag of stale chips or crackers in your pantry, here is an easy way to revive those snacky delights. Place chips or crackers onto a microwaveable plate and microwave for about 40 seconds. Cool and eat.
Question: I bought an indoor garden centre and now I am constantly battling little black flies. Any solutions to this pesty problem? Garnet
Answer: Before these critters, ‘bug’ you, set out a bowl of vinegar to determine if the bugs are fruit flies or fungus gnats. Fruit flies are attracted to vinegar, but gnats are not. To reduce bugs from hatching in plants, spread a layer of course sand on top of the soil. Doing this makes it difficult for fruit flies to lay eggs. Also, standing water creates a perfect breeding environment for fruit flies; therefore, water the plants, but make sure there is no standing water in the plant dish. Homemade Pesticide: In a 1-gallon milk jug, combine 2 tbsp. dish soap, 1 tbsp. rubbing alcohol, dash of Tabasco sauce, 1 tbsp. canola oil and enough water to fill the jug. Pour mixture into spray bottle and use as needed (double recipe as needed). Another option is to steep cigarette tobacco in water. Leave for two days and spray plants.
Question: I have a white, cotton shirt that was hung on a wire hanger. My shirt now has brown rust stains along the shoulders. Any suggestions for removing these stains? Kaneria
Answer: One solution I find very effective for battling rust stains on white fabrics is to pour 3% hydrogen peroxide (or lemon juice) onto the stain and sprinkle it with cream of tartar. Leave the item in the bright sun for a day then wash. It works very well. Alternatively, chop up a few stalks of rhubarb and add to water, cook. Hold the stain in the boiling rhubarb water for a few seconds (assuming the fabric can stand hot water). You should get great results, and your pot will sparkle.
Rice is Nice
Did you know that you can use rice to clean? Soak uncooked rice in water to remove starch and debris, then use the water to clean shower doors, appliances, and copper.
The taste of rice improves by resting the grain after cooking, which gives you more flexibility for completing the remainder of your meal. For a longer wait, place a slice of dry bread on the rice to keep it fluffy, cover.
Leftover rice freezes well. Store in sealable bags.
Make rice pudding using leftover rice. Place 2 cups of cooked rice in a bowl, add 1-2 cups low-fat Cool Whip, 1 cup raisins and 2 tsp. cinnamon. Mix well and cool in fridge until needed.
To clean a pot with baked-on rice, boil vinegar, baking soda and dish soap in a pot for 5 minutes. Let cool and scrub.
Rice is the first food a new bride in India offers to her husband and the first food offered to newborn babies.
Rice is grown on every continent except Antarctica.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip? Please send an email at: info@reena.ca. Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups; check out her website: reena.ca.
Renovation & Design
Drainage slope away from foundation always prudent
Question: I read your recent article in the Free Press about how to properly maintain the slope away from the house. I would like to ask you a question and will appreciate your answer. I did understand that the best is to use clay, but it is not available in landscaping stores. What would be my additional techniques to create a slope, to drain water away from the house, using materials that are commonly available? Can I use quarter down? Or can I just use topsoil and an additional layer on top, to prevent the soil from being washed away?
Thank You in advance,
Vadim N.
Answer: Building up the soil adjacent to your foundation is an easy and important way to prevent typical basement leakage. Using topsoil from a local landscape supplier is fine as long as you take proper measures to prevent erosion and washing away of the soil.
The heavy clay-based soil in our Red River valley area may be problematic for house foundations due to its expansive properties when saturated. Fortunately, that same property makes it very good for creating good grading around our homes. Having a well-draining substrate below grade adjacent to the foundation is ideal, but maintaining a “clay cap” at the top of the soil will help shed water efficiently. Because the clay can only absorb a certain amount of water before becoming saturated, it will help with runoff from heavy rains and melting snow when very wet. This will help prevent excess moisture up against the foundation walls below grade, as long as good grading practices are in place. If the grade is sloping toward the house, clay at the top of the soil column will do the reverse and shed water in the wrong direction, and can be a direct cause of moisture intrusion, instead.
Even though heavy clay soil is not normally available at retail stores, it can often be obtained nearby, with a little creativity. Anywhere there is construction activity that requires digging, clay soil will be in abundance. This should hold true where a new home or building is going up, due to excavation for the basement. It may also be piled up on the street from a foundation repair, pool installation, or even from drilling holes for new fence posts. Most contractors will have to pay to take this unwanted material away, so they may be thrilled if you offer to remove some for use at your own home. If it is close, using a long-handled shovel and wheelbarrow may be all that is required. If it is further away, a small trailer will be a better choice, even if it has to be rented on a short-term basis from a U-Rent retailer.
Working with clay soil, especially if it is wet, can be difficult and will require patience and strength. It is not very easy to spread against your house, but is easier when dried out. If you are able to get a sufficient quantity for your job, piling it up reasonably well may be all that is required. Once in place, even if it is lumpy and uneven, the process can be completed by finishing it off with typical topsoil. That will allow you to smooth the surface, allowing for better runoff, and will also ensure the next step works well. Planting grass seed, or sod if available, will help to stabilize the soil and prevent erosion. If the area will not easily grow grass due to lack of sunlight or moisture, adding a thin layer of bark chips, mulch, or stones may also prevent loss of the soil, over time. Installing a landscape fabric over the sloped topsoil, before the other materials, may also help prevent unwanted weeds from poking through.
If this all sounds like too much effort, or you simply can’t find a source of ugly clay, completing the entire job with topsoil is your next best bet. Topsoil will be much easier to work with and easier to smooth out for a good sloping grade. Using a lawn roller, or small compactor, can also aid in those efforts and prevent dry soil from blowing away. The roller is also an effective way of ensuring that grass seed applied on top of the newly sloped area is evenly spread. Going over the area another time or two after spreading the seed will embed it in the soil and prevent loss from the elements and feeding birds. The final step is to water the area immediately after completion, and very regularly thereafter, as long as it does not rain too much.
It is possible to apply another type of granular fill, like the quarter down you mentioned, but that is not as reliable for several reasons. Firstly, it may shed water fairly well when wet or compacted, but is not easily maintained in a proper slope. You can’t grow anything on top, unlike the soil, so it may wash away or erode much more easily. It will also collect dirt and debris, and can become covered with unwanted weeds.
Piling up clay and topsoil against your foundation walls, to provide a good drainage slope, will be your best bet for a dry basement. Ensuring the slope is smooth, covered well with grass or other low vegetation, and watered regularly, are the final pieces of the puzzle for good water management.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and a Registered Home Inspector (RHI)(cahpi.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Keep pesky wasps away with these handy tips
Question: What is a good solution for keeping wasps away? Thank you, Edward
Answer: If you notice wasps building a nest in the same space year after year, purchase an artificial wasp nest. Or make your own by blowing up a brown paper lunch bag and closing it with a string. Wasps are territorial and don’t like to make their home where someone else already has lived.
If wasps are not bothering you, leave them alone. Knocking down a wasp nest is risky business; surviving wasps will be angry and may attack. Also, they often rebuild nests in a new, nearby location. If you are desperate to remove a small nest, do so at night when they are sluggish. While wearing protective clothing, pull the nest inside of a sealable plastic bag or coffee can. For large wasp nests, call in an expert.
Make your own wasp deterrent: In a spray bottle, combine 1 teaspoon (5 mL) dish soap and 1-2 cups (250-500 mL) water. Drop in 2-3 garlic cloves. Leave overnight. Spray clothes and skin with the repellent mixture to deter wasps as well as mosquitoes. Or add 1 tsp. (5 mL) dish soap to a bottle of Mountain Dew. Place the container away from the seating area and watch those wasps disappear. Here is another option: Take an open can of tuna and lace it with borax. The wasps gobble up the tuna and will disappear in a few days. Wasps love garbage!
Question: I use dishwasher detergent in powder form, and I have noticed over the past months that my detergent tends to clump. Is there a better way to store the detergent so that the powder stays loose? Tyler
Answer: Whether you are storing homemade or store-bought dishwasher detergent, you can prevent clumping with this easy solution: Pour powdered detergent into a plastic bucket and close with a tightly fitting lid. This way moisture and humidity will not find its way into your detergent and the powder will stay loose. Stores sell dishwasher detergent in plastic buckets you may want to purchase one and continually refill it.
Feedback from contributors
Re: Growing Green Grass
For the person who is having trouble growing lush green grass, they should choose grass seeds that are conducive to the environment and soil. Also, don’t over fertilize because over fertilizing can burn the grass. — Claudia
Remove mildew on wood patio furniture by combining 1 cup ammonia, 1/2 cup vinegar, 1/4 cup baking soda and 1 gallon water. Wipe onto furniture and rinse. — Lynda
Clean mildew around the tub area by placing cotton balls soaked with bleach in each corner. Clean the inside of the tub as normal. Remove cotton balls from corners and rinse. — Lynda
Discourage mildew by leaving shower doors or curtains open after a shower. Before getting into the shower, spray the inside with mildew cleaner. Scrub while you shower. — Edward
To clean mildew on carpets: Vacuum carpet and throw away the bag. Combine 1/2 tsp. liquid dish soap with 1 cup warm water. Sponge onto area and let sit for 10 minutes. Rinse and blot with towels. Combine 2 tbsp. ammonia with 1 cup warm water. Blot area with towels. Air dry. — Glenn
To get shower curtains really clean add 1 cup vinegar to the water when laundering. — Aman
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip? Please send an email. Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups; check out her website: reena.ca.
info@reena.ca
Renovation & Design
Demolition likely not required to inspect for mould
Question: Over the past 15 years, we have noticed minor seepage from under our baseboard in our finished basement bathroom wall, through the spring thaw. This year, because of the wet weather, we had major flow. We are thinking of joining the lineup of homeowners requesting foundation repairs on the exterior wall, but with the overwhelming demand it may take a year. We wonder if we should tear apart our bathroom now to determine if there is any mould? Can we wait until the exterior wall is repaired?
Thank you, Diane.
Answer: Opening up a basement wall to inspect the area for mould growth may or may not be required, due to annual seepage, depending on the construction methods used to build the wall. If the wall is partially insulated with moisture resistant insulation, and a pressure treated bottom plate, then you may not have to worry. If it is insulated with the traditional fibreglass batt and poly method, especially if there are any gaps behind the insulation, mould growth is likely and repairs and mould removal will be required.
Mould may grow in our indoor living space if three essential components are present. The first is heat, which will be present, because we have to live in a warm environment to survive. The second is a cellulose-based food source. The majority of the building products used in our homes fit that criteria, including products from the environment like common dust and dirt. The final item is the key for successful growth of dormant mould spores, water. Mould spores are naturally occurring in our environment, from dozens of species, but most will remain inactive until they get wet. In relation to our homes, this moisture can come from precipitation, plumbing fixtures, human activity, or condensation.
The key to prevention of significant mould growth inside and outside our houses is ensuring that anything that does get wet, quickly dries. This applies to exterior components as well as anything inside the living space. Products on the outside that are not moisture resistant should be able to take a good soaking from a prairie thunderstorm, as long as they can easily shed that water once the sun comes back out. Inside, house components that can get wet, particularly in our kitchens and bathrooms, should not allow water to sit for more than a short time before it drains or evaporates. Also, areas where warm air can become trapped or stagnant, must have good ventilation to prevent cooling below the dew point. Otherwise, condensation on cooler surfaces and high humidity is another risk factor for mould propagation.
The area behind the wall covering in your basement bathroom may fall into the high-risk category, depending on how it is constructed, insulated, and air sealed. Because it is in a bathroom, proper ventilation with a good exhaust fan is also essential, or both surface mould and hidden growth is much more likely. Typical construction for many years has included using untreated softwood framing, fibreglass batt insulation, and polyethylene sheathing stapled to the warm side of the studs. This method is effective if the poly is fairly well sealed, over cavities completely filled with fibreglass, in a home with relatively low winter relative humidity (RH). If the poly is full of holes, or not sealed at the top between the floor joists, the fibreglass installed with gaps behind, or other poor-quality methods, warm air leakage into the wall cavity is highly likely. If that air has moderately high RH, common to bathrooms, or has no way to easily escape the cavity, condensation will often form inside the insulation or on the foundation wall. In really cold winter weather, that condensation will freeze and then melt when the weather warms. What you may have seen in previous years was this melted frost trickling out from underneath the bottom wall plate, or small amounts of seepage through the foundation walls.
If you don’t know what materials were used to construct and insulate the bathroom walls over top of the foundation, opening another area in the basement that is less obtrusive should be done before damaging the bathroom walls. If problems are noticed in those areas, or significant mould growth is visible, then more demolition is in order. If you find rigid foam insulation in the wall cavity, or better yet spray-on foam, you have less to worry about. Even if a layer of foam insulation is seen directly applied to the concrete and covered with batt insulation, that may be enough to prevent problematic condensation and frost.
If the water is indeed coming through the foundation walls, due to small cracks, rusted form ties, deteriorated damp-proofing, or damaged weeping tiles, then exterior excavation is certainly in order. That may not be fully determined without exposure of the majority of the inside of the foundation in that area. So, depending on the wall covering material and its condition, opening up the wall prior to excavation and repairs will help diagnose the cause of the leakage. That will also reveal whether you do have a mould issue to deal with, and help decide how to proceed. A small amount of mould should be within most homeowner’s skill level to clean, but a larger growth will likely require professional cleaning and remediation.
Determining how well your basement walls have been insulated and sealed should help you decide whether premature demolition is required to deal with mould growth behind. If the area is not able to properly dry after the most recent moisture intrusion, partial removal of wet or damaged wall coverings is warranted.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and a Registered Home Inspector (RHI)(cahpi.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Homemade eyeglass cleaner will have you seeing clearly
Question: I have been a fan of your column for years, and I wonder if you have a recipe that I could use to replace the expensive potions that eyeglass stores sell to clean the lenses of eyeglasses sold in the offices of optometrists etc. If you have a recipe for such a useful concoction, I would be grateful if you published it in your weekly weekend page in the Free Press. Warren
Answer: Here is a wonderful eyeglass cleaner recommended to me by an optician: Fill a spray bottle three quarter full of rubbing alcohol and one quarter with water. Add a few drops of dish soap. Shake to mix. Spray lenses and gently wipe with a soft cloth (not paper towels, toilet paper or tissues these will scratch your lenses).
Question: Do you have a recipe for homemade wipes? I want to store them in my car during the summer. Thank you, Renita
Answer: Cut one roll of paper towels in half to create useable squares. Place cut paper towels into a plastic container. In a bowl, combine half cup olive oil, 3 cups water and half cup baby shampoo. Pour over paper towels and close with a tightly fitting lid. Store in car, shake before using.
Question: How can I remove grass stains from the knees of pants? Thank you. Lucinda
Answer: Soak the area with white vinegar and Dawn dish soap for ten minutes. Next scrub the stain with liquid heavy duty detergent. Wash as usual. Repeat until the stain is gone.
Feedback from smart contributor!
Re: Apple Butter
I had several leftover apples this year and decided to make Apple Butter for my toast. It turned out so well that I really must share the recipe. Make it in a slow cooker and the entire house smells amazing! Peel, core and chop five and a half pounds of apples. Place the apples in your slow cooker. Into a separate bowl combine: four cups white sugar, 2 tsp. ground cinnamon, half tsp. ground cloves and half tsp. salt. Mix contents with apples. Cook on HIGH for one hour. Reduce heat to LOW and cook for 10 hours or until mixture is dark brown and thick (stir occasionally). Uncover and cook for one more hour. Pour into sterile jars and store in fridge or freezer. Yolanda
Household solutions
Potatoes remove food stains from fingers. Slice a potato and use the exposed side to rub your stained skin. Wash as usual. Edna
Real vanilla (not imitation) is great for keeping ticks and mosquitoes away. Wipe vanilla onto skin and let dry. Mosquitoes will not bother you as much and your skin will smell sweet. You can also repel ticks with essential oils such as: lemon, orange, cinnamon, lavender, peppermint, rose and geranium. Betty
To increase the shine of your silver, soak it in the water in which the potatoes were boiled. Let stand for one hour. Rinse. C.C.
Liven up a smoothie by adding one of the following: coconut milk, green tea, or almond milk. When making smoothies, always use frozen fruit. Kameryn
White shoe polish will not smear if hairspray is applied to the shoe after it has dried. Darren (Reena’s note: White shoe polish will have an even appearance if shoes are wiped with rubbing alcohol before polishing.)
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip? Please send an email. Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups. Check out her website: reena.ca.
info@reena.ca