Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Vapour barrier required when insulating garage
Question: I have a non-attached garage. I would like to use it periodically over the winter, maybe a couple of times a week, for a workshop. It will not be permanently heated, only when I use it. A 240 Volt, 5,000 watt electric heater and a small forced-air propane heater will be used. Once it is warm enough, I may turn off the propane unit. I am planning to insulate the roof inside and the walls. Is a vapour barrier really needed in this case and does the fibreglass need to be covered?
Thanks, Rob
Answer: Insulating garages for winter heating must always include a polyethylene air/vapour barrier or insulation that is restrictive to air infiltration. The location of the insulation must also be a consideration, include adequate ventilation and should be covered in case of fire.
During pre-purchase inspections I frequently run into detached garages which have been improperly, or inadequately, insulated and are sometimes heated. This combination will always lead to potential health and safety concerns. Most often the problems are seen in the ceiling or attic insulation, which is sometimes covered with black or dark grey sections. These discoloured areas are often due to dirt and soot accumulation and are a result or a missing or poorly sealed air/vapour barrier.
The heated air in the garage will easily penetrate the fibreglass batt insulation in this area and carry with it dirt, dust, and other particulates present. Especially with batts improperly installed in between the rafters, immediately underneath the roof sheathing, this is a major defect. I assume this may be your desired approach, based on the wording of your inquiry. If that is your wish, batt insulation should not be used and the only acceptable methods of insulation are to fill the cavities completely with spray-on high density foam or extruded polystyrene sheets. If using the latter, an extra layer with sealed seams should be installed underneath the rafters to provide a good air seal and enough thermal resistance to prevent damage to the roofing.
While the staining of the insulation may be unsightly and somewhat reduce its effectiveness, the real concern is the moisture that accompanies these particulates into the insulation or attic above. If there is poor attic ventilation this moisture will certainly remain in the attic or insulation and condense. Because the attic is much colder than the garage below, this condensation will freeze in the coldest weather and will likely lead to mould and rot growth in the attic framing and sheathing. Just as concerning is the insulation becoming wet from the melted frost and mould growing on the debris suspended inside the fibres. I frequently see water stains and evidence of small puddles of water on the attic side of the poly sheathing in poorly insulated garages.
As far as covering the insulation with some form of sheathing, that is a strong recommendation. There are two reasons for this requirement and both are related to fire and safety issues. Firstly, installing fire-rated sheathing on the inside of the garage exterior walls and ceiling will help protect the wood structure from easily burning, should a fire start in the garage. With your proposed shop, this is always an increased risk, depending on what machinery and products you are working with. You may also want to rethink the use of a propane heater, as that will also increase the chances of a fire and reduce occupant safety due to unvented combustibles in an enclosed space. With fireguard drywall installed, it may prevent significant damage to the garage structure until a fire can be extinguished. Without any protection, even a small fire can quickly melt the poly sheathing over the insulation. Not only can that lead to a very dangerous inferno, it has an additional safety concern.
Most plastics will release toxic fumes when burnt. If you are inside the sealed and heated garage when this occurs it can lead to serious health concerns, or even death. This is especially important if you decide to insulate the underside of the roof with spray foam or rigid panel insulation. The compounds contained within those hardened materials are highly toxic and will be released when set ablaze. In a small enclosed space, like a garage, the fumes may overwhelm occupants before they have a chance to escape to safety.
For some types of spray foam it may be acceptable to cover the inside with a fire-retardant paint to meet fire safety standards. Otherwise, a layer of 5/8-inch thick fireguard drywall is normally required to achieve the desired fire protection. While the surface paper of the drywall may burn, the gypsum core is an excellent fire-retardant material and can significantly extend the time before a fire reaches the wood framing behind. Even more combustible wall sheathing, like plywood or OSB, may provide reasonable protection if painted with a fire-resistant finish.
The final component required for a properly insulated garage is proper ventilation for the attic above the ceiling insulation. This can be easily accomplished on most detached garages by installing a combination of roof and soffit vents. Ensuring the soffits are not blocked by the new insulation is critical for proper performance and prevention of moisture and mould issues.
It is always necessary to install a proper air/vapour barrier in any heated building, or insulation with an integral superior air/vapour permeability rating. This, along with fire-rated sheathing installed on the warm side, will ensure both safety and moisture damage prevention are adequate for your new garage shop.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors — Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Coat cabinet hinges in clear lacquer to prevent rust
Question: The hinge from one of my kitchen cabinets has made a sizeable carbon stain on my cream coloured wall. I’m hesitant to try anything for fear it will smear and become worse. Would you know how to clean this? Thanks, Roberta
Answer: You should be able to remove the wall stain by scrubbing lightly with a green scrubby pad and dish soap. Rinse and scrub, until the stain is gone. Next remove the door hinges and coat them with a light coating of clear lacquer, so that the hinges do not stain your wall in the future.
Question: I am invited to a fondue dinner party, next week, with about 10 other friends. The menu will include oil, chocolate, and beer fondue pots. I am concerned about sharing fondue food with other guests during COVID-19, and with the current restrictions. Do you think that I should attend? Anonymous
Answer: No, you may need to prepare fondue, at home, for one instead. Please refer to the current government restrictions regarding COVID-19.
Question: I have cloth covered dining room chairs. They are cleaning code S. Is there any way to clean the fabric at home? Thanks, Robyn
Answer: The S refers to spot clean, without water, using a dry clean only product. This is a message guiding you to avoid liquid, but it is sometimes different for upholstery then it is for fabrics. For clothing, the manufacturer is saying the fabric may be ruined when in contact with liquid. For upholstery, some of the time, the fabric will be ruined and other times the textile cannot be washed because of the placement and adhesion to the furniture in which it cannot be removed. One option, and your safest bet, is to purchase a mild, water and free solvent from a retailer. Another option which is a little riskier, is to wipe the upholstery with shaving cream and scrub gently with a soft, clean cloth. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous area first.
Question: I lost your solution using Dawn dish detergent and some other things to remove peanut butter oil from a T-shirt. Could I please have it again?
Thank you so much, Leslie
Answer: Cover the stain with half teaspoon Dawn dish soap, half a teaspoon of three per cent hydrogen peroxide and one teaspoon cornstarch. Leave for three hours. Wash the shirt in hot water and air dry. Repeat process until stain is gone. Test on an inconspicuous area first.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups. Check out her website: reena.ca.
info@reena.ca
Renovation & Design
Skirting an issue brings new concerns
Question: I have a 40-year-old cottage that was skirted, is a three-season-use dwelling, and has no problems to complain about. When we visit in the winter we just bring in water, I heat the main drain pipe for the toilet, and dump in water manually. This seems to work fine for us.
However, a few summers ago I decided to support the cottage with Groundhog anchors. After having 28 installed and the cottage levelled, hopefully for the last time, I started to re-skirt the cottage. I didn’t complete the job before the snow flew. But what I found the following spring worries me. The skirting boards had buckled. This was never an issue before, as the skirting moved with the cottage. Now, I would like to reframe, skirt and add siding, but I am worried about what will happen the following winter.
How should I proceed to minimize buckling?
Thanks for the help.
John Hoffman, Riverton.
Answer: Closing in the crawlspace under a seasonal use building can provide some unique challenges due to changes in seasonal temperatures, soil moisture, and weather variations. The best course of action is to construct the skirting strong enough to resist these issues, or leave enough ground clearance to allow for seasonal movement.
At this time of year, as the snow rapidly disappears and the weather gradually warms, we start to think about addressing issues with our seasonal summer homes. Especially partially completed items, like the skirting below the floor of your cottage, need to be dealt with. The complete change in the foundation structure of your building will necessitate a completely different mindset, which should be adopted as your first course of action.
It sounds like you may have had only a partially enclosed skirting, previously, which may not have completely enclosed the area under the cottage floor. That type of structure will allow good airflow under the cottage and should prevent serious differences in the soil composition between that area and the exterior. Since it was not well sealed, it may also have had a small clearance between the bottom and the soil. Even if that was not the case, the former foundation structure, likely posts and pads, would have moved slightly up and down depending on the seasons. The old skirting would have mirrored that movement, which is why you didn’t notice any buckling. Also, there may have been little difference in temperature and snow accumulation on either side of the skirting, if it was not a complete barrier.
Now that you have the crawlspace partially enclosed and the floor structure sitting on multiple screw-piles, there may be some differential movement between the area in the middle of the floor and the perimeter. Since your soil may expand and contract with changes in moisture content and temperature, there could be significant differences between these areas. Also, the screw-piles may not go deep enough to resist frost movement in some areas, but perhaps in others. The solution to that is to install adjustable brackets on the top of the screw-piles, which can be manipulated seasonally to compensate for this differential movement. That should be much more significant a concern than some buckled skirting boards, and should help you maintain a straighter and more level cottage floor.
There may be two different approaches to prevention of your current problem, which will depend on your desire for a sealed and heated crawlspace, or to remain with a partially open area. If you do want a completely sealed area around the crawlspace, it will allow potential heating of the area in the winter and more practical use all year round. If that is your plan, constructing a much more durable and permanent knee-wall for the skirting will be required. That will require framing the knee-wall with 2x4 or 2x6 lumber prior to sheathing the exterior. That should be done with pressure treated wood, at least on the bottom plate but preferably the entire area. The short studs should be spaced close enough together to resist pressure from the soil beneath. These short walls should fill the entire space between the floor perimeter and the ground to prevent snow and pest intrusion into the newly enclosed crawlspace.
The sheathing, and/or siding, on the exterior of this knee-wall could be installed with a small gap between it and grade, which would allow a buffer to prevent it buckling from upward pressure. The treated framing on grade should still keep the crawlspace area enclosed and should be strong enough to prevent damage from swelled soil. Ensuring that you install several large vents in the new knee-walls will help dry any moisture that accumulates inside the crawlspace over winter. These should be covered with rigid foam insulation for the heating season, which will prevent excessive heat loss, should you decide to heat the crawlspace in the future, rather than just the drain pipes.
The other alternative is to continue with the status quo and not attempt to fully enclose the skirting. Leave gaps not only between the skirting boards themselves, but also at the bottom of the entire assembly. That will allow some snow, debris, and rodents to gain partial access to the crawlspace, but the gap at the bottom will prevent any upward soil pressure from damaging the skirting. The partially open skirting will also not need additional ventilation, as the gaps will allow for more than adequate drying of any accumulated moisture over the winter.
Changes made to the foundation of your summer home will also necessitate modifications to the skirting, depending on your future use of the crawlspace below the floor. It will either have to be constructed rigidly enough to prevent seasonal soil movement, or left partially open and above grade to prevent a reoccurrence of the buckling.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors — Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Buff kitchen sink to remove fine scratches
Question: A year ago, I had my kitchen remodelled and I bought a new, expensive double stainless-steel sink. Despite being careful cleaning and using this sink, it has developed many small scratches. I had my old sink for 34 years and it looked better than my new one when it was removed. Any suggestions for hiding the scratches? Rose
Answer: There are multiple commercial products available at hardware stores designed to remove scratches on stainless steel, including all appliances, even the kitchen sink. You can also buff out scratches yourself, using a sand pad for intense scratches or a scuff pad (number one for heavier scratches) or 000 for finer scratches. Spray the stainless steel with 50/50 white vinegar and water. Buff out scratches with the pad. Make sure to use long, even strokes and pull the pad along the grain. Using short strokes will result in a patchy finish. Polish with a soft cloth.
Question: My friends and I have a similar problem. After many washes, our towels are no longer soft. We don’t want to use dryer sheets/additives in the dryer. Is there a way to make them soft again? Many thanks! Judy
Answer: Towels often lose their softness when they are full of fabric softener and/or detergent. In order to strip the residue in the textiles, soak them in a full-strength solution of white vinegar. Leave for one hour, and wash as usual, using only a small amount of detergent and a half cup baking soda. Dry in the dryer and remove them as soon as they are dry.
Question: What is the best and easiest way to clean a hairbrush? Jessica
Answer: For a new hairbrush, cut pieces of old pantyhose into squares. Push the pantyhose down into the bristles; as the brush collects hair, remove the nylon, and shake the hair into the garbage or compost bin. Replace the nylon onto the bristles. For used hairbrushes, find an old fork to pry the hair out of the bristles. Using shampoo and water, clean the bristles and air dry the brush.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip? Please send an email at: info@reena.ca. Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups; check out her website: reena.ca.