Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Insist your renovator adheres to stringent principles
When choosing a renovator, look for the RenoMark logo. It's your symbol of assurance of quality when selecting a renovator. The RenoMark program is a nationally recognized set of standards that will give you the peace of mind you have carefully chosen wisely. In Manitoba, only renovators who are members of the Manitoba Home Builders' Association can display the RenoMark logo. Each applicant must agree to adhere to the RenoMark principles.
What does it take to become a RenoMark renovator?
-- Provide a detailed written contract/scope of work for all jobs
-- Offer a warranty on all work
-- Carry a minimum $2 million liability insurance
-- Carry all applicable licenses and permits
-- Be fully covered under the Workers Compensation Board
-- Only work with trades who carry similar coverage
-- Have and use an applicable business license, GST number
-- Maintain a professional level of knowledge of current building codes, permit procedures and technical skills through continuing education
At the very least, insist your renovator adheres to the above principles even if they are not part of the RenoMark program. It puts you on solid ground when entering into an agreement and lets your renovator know that you demand quality, fairness and high professional standards.
Not every job is going to require the hiring of an external professional renovator. Some jobs we can do ourselves. However, being dollar-wise Manitobans, we want to make sure that we are getting full value. What do we do? Look for the logo!
Yes, the same principle that applies for finding a renovator also applies to finding a supplier. Look for the logo -- the Manitoba Home Builders' Association logo. It makes perfect sense to shop at a supplier of goods and services who is a MHBA member. Why? As above, a committee of industry professionals reviewed their application, checked their references and verified their standard of quality before accepting their membership.
People who have a far greater working knowledge in this area have done our homework for us in advance. These suppliers have already passed the test. They have passed the scrutiny of the best in the business. If the best builders and renovators in Manitoba buy their materials from this supplier, why shouldn't I? Their entire reputation and livelihood depends on searching for the best materials, workmanship and quality. We can all benefit from their diligence.
In summary, our homes are very important to us. We live there; we raise our families there. We deserve the best. In order to ensure we are getting the best, look for the logo.
Mike Moore is president of the
Manitoba Home Builders' Association
Renovation & Design
Stop using humidifier to improve home air quality
Question: I have a humidifier in the furnace room with a dial switch 10-75 in my home in Edmonton. I believe this is percentage. It also has a switch from winter to summer on it, which just opens the channel inside differently. I also have a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) unit, which I have set the dehumidistat to 40. On the main screen it says the relative humidity (RH) is 30. I set it on fan one and I have played around with the 20/40 or always vent.
Do these interact with each other when one is set to high and the other is lower? Does the HRV settings affect the setting of the humidifier, and how does it affect the house? Does it also affect temperatures in my house based on what my thermostat is doing? Is the HRV set up through the vents that also provide us our heat? I'm asking this last question because we get cold air blowing from the vents often when it's still cold in my house. Is the cold air common? I find this all very confusing -- what to set things at and when, or how they all react to one another. Any advice? Thanks, Scott Gill
Answer: You have come to the right place because I always have advice for homeowners who are confused about systems, mechanical or otherwise, in their homes. This time the advice is painfully simple. Shut off or disconnect the humidifier and simply use the controls for the HRV properly as the winter weather changes.
I receive a disproportionate number of inquiries about HRV units, compared to almost any other system in the home. The lack of knowledge about these fairly simple devices does surprise me, but not just because they are generally installed in relatively new homes. I frequently observe this ignorance, which I attribute to a lack of information from builders or HVAC contractors installing these items. As with any newer system, homeowners should not just be handed a printed manual with lengthy instructions, but should have the simple controls and maintenance physically demonstrated, prior to use. A few minutes of description and operation would eliminate this lack of understanding. Also, many HRV dehumidistat controls are not functioning when tested, but that appears to be improving considerably with the mandatory installation of HRVs in new homes in our area.
An HRV is installed in a new home to provide two main functions. Firstly, the unit is designed to vent stale air from the home and replace it with fresh outside air. This ventilation function is becoming increasingly important to remove pollutants, CO2 and odours from our indoor environment as homes become more airtight. The other function of this mechanical box, normally located near the furnace, is to help regulate the relative humidity in the home. This critical function is to prevent excess moisture in the house air from causing mould, rot and other nasty things from building up inside our living spaces.
The way an HRV provides both of its key functions is by turning on at various intervals depending on how it is set. Many units have automatic settings that will provide a timed period of continuous ventilation, followed by a period of non-operation. To complicate this further, most newer units have multiple fan speeds, which can be used to control the amount of air moved in and out of the home. Also, the HRV can be manually turned on with timed switches located in bathrooms, at least in new home installations. This last function is important because bathrooms are normally the largest source of water vapour in our homes, but can also help illustrate my next point.
The misunderstanding many homeowners have about proper HRV function and purpose is partially due to a system typically installed in older, poorly sealed homes. A humidifier was often installed on the ducting near older furnaces, due to the extreme drying of the winter air in these air-leaky buildings. Because so much cold air could penetrate the building enclosures, replacing the heated air that escaped through older chimneys, walls, attics and windows, moisture control and ventilation was not very important. This allowed enough natural ventilation, not only to negate the need for an HRV, but the large amount of outside air infiltration made the indoor air too dry. To counteract this effect, humidifiers were installed that added moisture to the force air in the heating system, raising RH to comfortable levels.
To summarize these points, and oversimplify the situation in your home, you have one system installed to remove moisture from the air in the home, the HRV, and another one to add moisture to the air, the humidifier. Both of these mechanical boxes are supposed to be operated primarily during the heating season, but have directly opposing objectives. Does this make any sense? The answer should be obvious, and shutting down or removing the humidifier will be your next course of action and solve part of your dilemma. These devices are an antiquated throwback to a time when air/vapour barriers and modern thermal insulation did not exist.
The final piece of the puzzle is proper setting of the HRV controls. Yes, a properly installed HRV should engage the furnace fan when it comes on to help move the air through the furnace ducting, not just its own. This will allow cool, room-temperature air to be felt at the registers when on, but should not affect the overall heating function of the furnace. Setting the HRV dehumidistat between 25 and 35 per cent during a typical Western Canadian winter should cause it to function properly, unless the timed automatic function is set. This, combined with discontinued use of the humidifier, should yield comfortable and healthy indoor air, and help clear up any misunderstanding you have about the function of these two opposing systems.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Eavestroughs not typically required or included with mobile homes
Question: I just purchased a 2012 mobile home. I realized there are no eavestroughs on it. So I started to look at other trailers in the trailer park and none of them have eavestroughs. It was a warmer day and the snow was melting off the roof and running down the sides of every trailer. Should they have them or if not, why not? I realize there's no basement for water to get into, but it can't be good for the siding etc. Plus it's annoying to have water dripping on your head when you open the door.
Thanks, Kelly Hough.
ANSWER: There are a few reasons your newly purchased mobile home has no eavestroughs or downspouts, most of which are simply due to the design of the unit.
Mobile homes are designed to be just that, mobile, so having additional items that may make transportation of the domicile more difficult is not practical, or necessary.
Mobile homes, while providing adequate yet somewhat limited habitation for people, are designed to be moved. Because of this, they must have different design features, for both durability and practicality, than typical homes.
As you undoubtedly have noticed, the exterior of your mobile home is considerably different than most houses. The first difference is the likelihood of metal siding and roofing on the entire structure. Metal is used because it's strong and lightweight.
Whether aluminum or painted steel, metal siding and roofing may outlast other materials while providing a smooth, thin skin for the mobile home. This material will also be applied with fasteners that will prevent detachment or damage during motion.
That may be the primary reason for this choice: a lack of problems when the mobile home is transported to its destination.
Because metal roofing and siding is highly malleable when produced, it can be formed and curved to tightly fit almost any angle or curve with minimal joints. This ability allows the transition from the roofing to the siding to have tighter seams than conventional structures, while allowing good drainage due to the curved surfaces. Since the entire exterior of the mobile home, excluding the windows, may be made of this type of siding, leakage from rain is less likely.
This may also be complemented by proper flashings or seals around doors, windows, and other penetrations of the exterior cladding. Installing eavestroughs to prevent water running down the metal-skinned walls is not necessary to prevent siding damage.
Despite the lack of necessity for siding or structural damage, eavestroughs and downspouts would help prevent erosion of the soil around your mobile home, depending on the location.
Because the manufacturer is not sure what type of surface the domicile will be resting on, installing a rainwater-management system would be frivolous.
If the mobile home is to be parked on a solid slab of concrete or asphalt, this may not be an issue. If it is to reside in a lot with sandy soil or compacted gravel, and has good grading, there may also be no need for further modifications.
Similarly, if the mobile home is to be placed in an area with a very dry climate, such as many desert communities in the U.S., water management may not be a consideration.
Regardless of the resting place of a mobile home being unknown, measures must be taken to provide a relatively tight exterior to prevent leakage from precipitation.
Adding any exterior components, such as eavestroughs or downspouts, on a mobile home may interfere with transportation.
Having flimsy metal gutters sticking out from the unit, while being driven down a highway at relatively high speeds, would not be wise.
While damage is likely, disconnection could be disastrous. Unless the gutters were designed to be integral, with seamless downspouts hidden behind the siding, transportation would be a major issue. That is why most of the items attached to, or protruding from, the exterior of the mobile home will be collapsible, foldable, or covered to accommodate movement.
While a drainage system to control runoff from rainwater may not be integral to your mobile home, one may be installed, if you desire.
This may also include foldable awnings over doors or windows, or other exterior components, to prevent you from getting wet when entering or leaving the structure.
There are many aftermarket items designed specifically for mobile homes and RVs for these purposes. Checking out the local RV and leisure product retailers should help locate these products. You may not find eavestrough systems, but these could be adapted from residential materials found at home centres, once your mobile home is situated.
Care must be taken not to damage the metal siding when fastening the troughs, but screws with gaskets are available for that purpose. Planning for easy removal of these items is important, should the mobile home need to be relocated.
Drainage systems for buildings that are designed to be moved, such as your new mobile home, are neither necessary nor practical. The design of the unit should automatically take into consideration roof integrity and drainage, but additional components could be added after it is parked, should you desire.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Call Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or see his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Grains of rice used to absorb moisture in salt shaker
Question: I have often noticed restaurants have grains of rice in salt shakers. Is this for good luck or a joke someone plays on the server? Bethany, éle-des-Chênes
Answer: While some people consider the following a myth, here is the reason many people add rice grains to shakers: a few grains is a great way to prevent salt from clumping, because rice is said to absorb moisture.
Did you know many people believe the fix for handheld devices that get wet is to leave them in a bowl of rice for several hours to absorb moisture?
QUESTION: I would like to make a Christmas fruitcake for the first time. The recipes I've looked up online are for large amounts, with expensive ingredients. Is it possible to make half a recipe? One asks for five eggs. How do I divide? Shirley, Winnipeg
Answer: The easiest option is to use three small eggs (instead of medium or large). The more technically accurate solution includes measuring. A large egg equals about three tablespoons of contents. If the recipe calls for both egg yolk and egg white, beat the egg, and use 11/2 tbsp. for the Christmas fruitcake recipe.
QUESTION: Please advise me how to clean the black ceramic shower tiles in my shower. We have very hard water. I have used many products to try to eliminate the mineral deposits and soap scum, but the tiles remain blotchy and stained-looking after they have dried. Thank you. Barbara, Winnipeg
Answer: Whenever I want to freshen up old grout, I get a handy little piece of pumice stone. Pour some dish soap onto the pumice stone and wet it, then scrub the grout; looks wonderful. Next, spray isopropyl alcohol onto the grout to prevent mildew from growing and discolouring the grout (keep the alcohol away from small children). Another option is to make a paste of borax and water and scrub the grout with an old toothbrush.
QUESTION: Thanks to a lazy dog owner, I stepped in a pile of you-know-what, and I didn't notice until the following day. After cleaning the mess up, the smell is lingering. The sole is a rubberized material used on walking shoes. I have scrubbed with a variety of products, but I cannot get rid of the smell. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you. Leslie, Winnipeg
Answer: If possible, toss the shoes in the washing machine and wash with heavy-duty detergent and hot water. If the shoes are not washable, scrub the bottom sole with an old toothbrush, water and quite a bit of whitening toothpaste. Soak the bottom sole in 50/50 solution of vinegar and water.
Smart phone tip
Recently, I got a brilliant idea. Well, I thought it was brilliant. Both my husband and I are in our 70s, and it's a bit difficult for us to get down on the floor. We had to kneel down to read the serial number on our stove (to have it repaired). To get that number, one has to pull out the drawer at the bottom of the stove. The sticker is right there, on the right. But to be able to read it, especially when using bifocals, required some major efforts on our part. We did it, and after we were done, my brain clicked in -- I have a cellphone with a camera, and it just requires one of us to bend over and click a photo. If it doesn't work, erase the picture and take another, or use a digital camera. If numbers had been difficult to read on the phone, we could have transferred the picture to our computer, where they would be easier to make out. I'm going to use this trick next time something rolls under the bed. Thanks again for what you do. Lilianna
Note: every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Reena Nerbas enjoys your questions and tips; keep them coming. Need a presenter on the topic: Effective Speaking or The Power of Words? Check out reena.ca.
