Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Show homes available for your viewing all year long
Although the 2015 Fall Parade of Homes has formally ended, you still have plenty of opportunity to revisit those fantastic show homes you saw during the three weeks of Parade or check out the ones you may have missed. Tens of thousands of people visited 130 new homes by 33 different builders in 35 unique neighbourhoods. It was a whirlwind tour for many, and one couldn't be expected to visit every home, no matter how hard they tried.
Many people have the mistaken notion show homes are only open during the Spring and Fall Parade of Homes. In fact, they are open year-round, and although the hours may not be the same as during Parade, they are able to accommodate all interested clients. Now your interest in a new home has been piqued by the Fall Parade, the timing is perfect to follow up with another visit.
The crowds were generally huge for the past three weeks. Although you received an excellent welcome and introduction to each new home, it was undoubtedly busy, and it may have been difficult for you to have a private conversation with the sales representative. The purchase of a new home is an important decision, and now that you have visited the best new homes in Manitoba, you undoubtedly have a number of questions you would like to ask.
If you took any information literature from the home, it will have the contact number for the sales representative. Call and set up a private viewing and meeting. This will give you an opportunity to get a view in more detail and have a one-on-one conversation without interruption. If you don't have the direct number but recall the name of the builder, call the builder, and they can facilitate your meeting. If you recall the neighbourhood but not the specific house that interested you, the entire Parade of Homes magazine is on the Manitoba Home Builders Association website (homebuilders.mb.ca) or the Winnipeg Free Press website.
The magazine has a listing of all of the homes, where they are located, a brief description of each and the base and selling prices. Whether it was the subdivision or the builder or the particular home that interested you, it's all in the Parade magazine.
The important thing to remember is almost all the wonderful show homes you saw during the Fall Parade of Homes are still available for viewing. The Parade may be over, but the opportunity to purchase your new dream home has just begun.
Mike Moore is president of the Manitoba Home Builders Association.
Renovation & Design
Split-level home offers unique stucco-repair challenge
Question: I have a problem with the stucco on my house breaking away where the wall meets the foundation. This house is a four-level split and was built in 1981. Originally, the stucco extended all the way to the ground, with the coloured stucco ending at the foundation and grey stucco covering the concrete foundation.
The grey stucco has fallen off completely, leaving the bottom edge of the buffalo board exposed.
The same problem exists on my detached garage as well. I notice stucco extending to the ground is the common practice here in Winnipeg, but isn't this asking for moisture to be wicked up into the stucco? I am concerned the exposed board will get damaged by moisture, as well as rotting the sill plate, or be a path for insect infestation. When winter comes, I can expect snow to be drifting up against the wall.
A friend had the same problem and had a rotting sill plate that had to be replaced, and carpenter ants had started working at the wood, leaving large mounds of sawdust.
Searching online shows some contractors swearing by installing a weep screed at the bottom of the wood/stucco, and some recommendations specify having at least 20 centimetres of clearance from grade to any stucco. What is the best way to seal the bottom edge of the stucco on the wall, and should there be stucco on the concrete foundation? Randall Wiebe-Dembowski
Answer: Most typical homes the age of yours will have little concern with the purely cosmetic, stucco-like parging on the foundation walls coming off, but yours may be quite different due to the style. Sealing a small crack where the stucco has deteriorated at the top of a foundation is easily accomplished, but may be markedly different on a split-level home. I will outline the differences and suggest repairs for both typical and low-height foundations.
Developing a small crack or gap at the bottom of a typical stucco wall, just over top of the foundation, is quite normal. This often occurs because the stucco wire cannot be easily secured to the concrete foundation and may crack or fall off due to movement and differential shrinkage between the concrete foundation and wooden house walls.
These types of cracks are rarely a sign of any significant issue and can normally be filled or sealed with exterior-grade caulking or stucco-patching material. The caulking will prevent moisture from entering the gap, preventing damage to the sheathing below. Care should be taken not to totally fill this gap if it is underneath the bottom of the stucco, as this small space may allow excess moisture that penetrates the stucco during heavy rains to drain. Filling that type of gap fairly well should prevent excessive pest and moisture intrusion.
The problem with many split-level homes is due to the different heights of the foundation or floor levels in different areas of the building. Unlike a standard bungalow or two-storey home, where the foundation is poured to a single, common height above grade, your home's foundation may have several different heights. Often, parts of the lower-level foundation will be framed with a wooden knee-wall to even things out or support one level of the floor joists. The problem is the bottom of this knee-wall may be near of just slightly above grade. If this is the area of concern in your home, more involved repairs are likely.
The problem with the knee-wall style of design, or if the floor joists themselves are sitting in or on the foundation just above grade, is potential moisture damage. As you have pointed out, this area will be subject to rot and decay from excessive wetting from melting snow or damp soil. I am not surprised your friend's home had this problem occur, which I have seen numerous times in that situation.
The key in determining if you need more involved repairs or simple caulking is the height above grade. Any siding materials, and the wall sheathing beneath, should be a minimum of 20 cm above grade, as you have discovered online. That much room will allow for good drainage after a heavy rain, prevent wicking of moisture from the soil or a wet concrete foundation and prevent snow from sitting against the wall when the spring melt begins. Any lower than that and moisture damage to the siding, sheathing, or wall and floor framing is likely.
If you discover that the true stucco walls are close to grade on your home, and not just a concrete foundation covered with parging that mimics the stucco in appearance, more invasive repairs should be done.
The only way to prevent the occurrence of the issue in your friend's home is to waterproof this area much better than originally done. Cutting away a few centimetres of stucco and building paper, to allow the required 20-cm minimum clearance, should expose the sheathing beneath. If visible rot is seen in the sheathing or framing, that must be removed and replaced before continuing.
If it is still in satisfactory condition, it should be waterproofed completely with a bitumen-based membrane or other protective coating. These materials are normally used for foundations, but may be just as effective in your application.
Once applied, the membrane should be covered with moisture-resistant sheathing, parging or other covering to prevent damage. The underside of the cut stucco can be capped with a galvanized metal J-channel, or other trim, to improve appearance and allow the waterproofing membrane to be installed under the bottom of this area for maximum protection.
You are absolutely correct that the practice of installing stucco close to grade on older split-level homes can cause moisture damage to the walls and floor structure. This may only appear after several decades, due to settlement and replacement of eroded soil, or may have started shortly after construction, and preventive measures should be installed. Simple patching or caulking of any cracks or gaps may be fine if the walls are sufficiently above grade to prevent serious moisture damage, but more extensive waterproofing will be warranted if it is too close to the ground.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Have fire extinguishers inspected by a professional
Question: How often should I replace my fire extinguisher? Joel, Winnipeg
Answer: You only need to replace a fire extinguisher if it needs replacing. With that said, fire extinguishers should be maintained at least once a year or when specifically indicated by an inspection. An inspection by a professional is intended to give maximum assurance that an extinguisher will operate effectively and safely. The inspection includes a thorough examination and any necessary repair, recharging or replacement. If the extinguisher is damaged or needs recharging, replace it immediately.
Question: My boyfriend burps in public, he thinks it's really funny. I find it embarrassing, especially during a wedding ceremony. What is the proper burping etiquette? Tammy, Arborg
Answer: Begin by asking your boyfriend if he is able to control his burps. If so, explain to him that his gassy victories embarrass you, because you were taught burping loudly in public is rude. Keep in mind some people find it difficult to silence their belches and may laugh to cover up their embarrassment. Handle the situation with sensitivity and tact.
Question: My son drew all over our whiteboard with permanent marker. I scrubbed for 10 minutes, but the marker didn't budge. Is the whiteboard garbage? Vessa, Winnipeg
Answer: Using a dry erase marker; scribble over the entire board. Wipe the board with a soft cloth and the permanent marker will disappear.
Question: What is meant by HE detergents for front-end-loader washing machines? Thank you. Luke (Brunkild, Man.)
Answer: HE stands for high efficiency detergent, which is specially made for front-end-loading washing machines. HE detergent produces fewer suds and makes good use of water inside the machine. HE detergent is not suited for older washing machines and may become a problem over time. Since HE detergent produces less sudsing, excess detergent residue is less likely to remain in fabrics from one cycle to the next. Typically, HE detergents do not cost more than normal detergents, and they are readily available. Using proper HE detergent for your high-efficiency low-water washer will enable your laundry appliance to perform as it should.
Manitoba shares
-- I would like to share a great tip that I learned about preventing rabbits and/or deer from chewing shrubs/trees. Wrap the base of your trees/larger shrubs (when possible) with plastic (take it off in spring). Spray plant with No Bite; Tree and Plant Protector. The current winter forecast is for a low snow accumulation. When we had 10 feet of snow, rabbits girdled the upper branches of the Cotoneaster's in River Heights and Tuxedo and did so thoroughly, more succumbed than didn't. It took me weeks to figure out what could have done damage that high up until I realized the snow was there. and those cute little bunnies don't weigh much. Charlotte (Charlotte's Place, Winnipeg)
-- We had a problem with mice nesting in our attic. The exterminator was at our home regularly, but the mice returned every year. Last year I purchased a big container of pepper and sprinkled some of it in the attic. No mice since. Jesse, Winnipeg
-- No-cook easy pizza sauce
In a bowl stir together: one (six ounce can) tomato paste, one cup water, one-third cup olive oil, two cloves, minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste, one tbsp. dried oregano and half tbsp. dried basil. Spread onto pizza and can or freeze remainder.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Need a presenter on the topic: Effective Speaking or The Power of Words? Check out: Reena.ca
Renovation & Design
Apartment plumbing woes difficult to diagnose
Question: I live in an eight-storey apartment building constructed in 1967 and reside on the sixth floor. Last fall I noticed the water in my toilet bowl would drain to just above the siphon jet hole whenever the tenants on the seventh or eighth floors flushed their toilets. Also, a loud gurgling noise would sometimes come from my bathtub. Thinking a clog was causing the draining and noise all the drains in my apartment were cleaned with liquid drain cleaner. This did not correct the problem. I contacted our building maintenance manager and a new low-flow toilet was installed. Unfortunately, this did not correct the problem and a plumber was called in to inspect the line from the roof down to my apartment. Using a camera system to see inside the line detected no clogs or other issues.
By the time all of the above occurred we were into winter and it was decided to wait until spring to investigate further. Over the winter the bowl water would still go down several inches but never lower than the siphon jet hole. Sewer gas odours are not a problem. As it stands now, the toilet must be flushed before use to ensure there is enough water in the bowl to properly eliminate waste. If the upstairs neighbours flush their toilet while mine is being used, you must flush, finish your business and then flush again. This is very annoying and not making good use of a low flow toilet. No other tenants above or below me are having similar problems. Any thoughts? Thanks, Carole Holke
Answer: The problem you are experiencing would fall under the category of minor issues. Searching for a solution may still be a worthwhile endeavour, but often futile. Unfortunately with high-rise apartment blocks, especially older ones, the limitations on locating the source of the concern may be large. This may have been occurring for many years prior to your occupancy and sometimes living with this nuisance issue may be unavoidable.
The key to determining why a plumbing fixture is draining in a strange manner, or making odd noises, is to look at the configuration of the plumbing drains. Often, drains are not properly sloped, angled, or vented in a manner that allow problem-free drainage of water and waste from a portion of a building. The taller the building, the more a single drain pipe or fixture may be affected by numerous other interconnected drains in other individual suites. There are specific requirements in the Building Codes that address what can and cannot be done as far as these variables are concerned. If not done correctly, even in one single suite, it may affect other units above or below as far as proper drainage is concerned.
The initial response to such a problem is too look for blocked drains. Especially in multi-family dwellings such as yours, dropping or flushing foreign objects into drains may be a common occurrence. Small children may flush plastic balls, toys, dolls, or other impassible items into the commode, creating a blockage. Also, excessive hair, soap and other debris can regularly clog drains and traps of sinks and bathtubs. While none of these should seriously affect the neighbours if the building is plumbed properly, they may cause a problem if they travel farther down the main drains. Partial blockage of the main stack may cause the venting for any suite to be partially compromised. The description of your problem sounds like your toilet is drawing air from an improper other fixture, which is likely a venting problem. This should have been visible during the recent camera scope if it was in the main stack.
If this occurred only during winter months, the suspect would be frozen pipes and vents. This is a common thing to experience in really cold weather, but your noisy toilet woes appear to be year-round, so we should be able to rule that out. What you should have the superintendent investigate is any recent renovations or upgrade around the time this began to happen. There is a chance that in one suite, or in a common area like the laundry, renovations have been done that included plumbing drain replacements. If these were not properly done by a licensed plumber, another fixture somewhere in the building may be drawing air from the fixtures in your suite rather than the proper vent system. The difficult task is locating the source of the defect. Since you notice the water loss during the flush of toilets in suites above you, those are the ones that should be checked first. However, a problem due to improper drain slope or angles may be hidden deep inside floors or walls and may not be easily found or repaired. I doubt the building owners would be willing to start tearing these apart to please one tenant.
Finding defects in drain and vent plumbing can be difficult enough in single-family dwellings, but may be exponentially tougher in high rise apartments such as yours. While it may be little consolation for your wonky toilet issues, if the problem is not enough to drain the trap inside your toilet it may be nothing more than a watery nuisance that is too difficult to easily remedy.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
