Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Location of attic insulation critical
Question: I am preparing to add more blown-in insulation to my attic. I have added baffles for air flow from my soffits where possible, but, in some areas, there is no opening down to the soffit between trusses. In these areas, I questioned myself on allowing the insulation to touch the underside of the roof deck. After much searching on the Internet, one of your articles provided me with a very clear answer; thanks!
However, I have another question that I hope you will be able to help me with. I am topping up my insulation to 16 inches. Is it OK for it to be touching the gable ends of my roof? Or, should I create a gap with some baffles? I do have a vapour barrier under the insulation.
Greg Hill
Answer: Yes, it is that time of year again to address attic-insulation issues, and you have asked a very straightforward question on a rarely addressed issue.
Location of insulation in an attic is critical to maintaining a dry and well-ventilated space and ensuring the insulation covers the entire attic floor, even along the gable ends, is an important feature of a well-done attic.
As the leaves turn colour and begin to descend from the trees, many homeowners are reminded of their high heating bills from the previous winter, and thoughts move to improving energy efficiency in their home. Other than caulking or sealing old windows and doors, increasing attic insulation is often the quickest and least expensive option for reducing these costs. It also comes with the added benefit of making the home more comfortable and may be eligible for government-sponsored grants. So, increasing attic insulation in a home that has not been upgraded for a long time makes good sense, but like any home upgrade, care must be taken to do it correctly.
You have reminded readers of one of the many columns I have written on this subject but I cannot recall anyone inquiring with such a specific request. For those readers who don't fully understand the question, the gable ends of an attic are the triangular sections at the ends of that style of home, which are above two walls perpendicular to the sloped portions of the roof. A home where the roof slopes down to all the walls, or a hip roof, will not have gable ends. In the attic, the inside of these gable ends is seen as the backside of the wall sheathing behind the siding. At the bottom of these gables are the tops of the exterior walls of the home. The question relates to this area and whether it should be insulated or not.
The answer to your question is a simple yes. The easy way to explain this is any vertical wall or area that is insulated in the home should be covered with insulation in the attic. Since the gable ends are on top of the exterior house walls, which should be fully insulated, continuing the thermal barrier in this location is a must. This does differ from the soffits on the adjacent sides of the attic, as these are not insulated beyond the top plate of the exterior walls. That is why soffit areas should not, be insulated. In those locations, we should try to avoid over-insulating to allow maximum airflow through the vented soffits. We normally do this by installation of baffles, or air chutes, as mentioned in your inquiry.
The main item that may be causing your confusion is why we are allowing the insulation to touch the wall sheathing at the gable end when we don't want it to touch the underside of the roof sheathing at the other sides of the attic.
The discrepancy is that it is not the contact of the insulation with the sheathing that is the problem at the other sides, but what that shows us. If the insulation is touching the roof sheathing inside the soffits, it may partially or completely block airflow through soffit vents, which is very important to prevent frost and moisture buildup in the attic. Contact between attic insulation and sheathing is not a problem, but at the sloped edges of an attic it may cause serious moisture issues.
Warm air that does sneak into the insulation in that area from the home may not be able to escape and can condense. When it get really cold outside, this will cause frost to form inside the insulation, which will melt and cause damage in the spring. At the gable ends, there is nothing on top of the insulation, so any trapped air should be able to escape to the wide-open attic above.
In fact, poorly insulated or sealed attics and exterior walls can often have significant frost forming on the inside of the gable ends above the insulation. Adding more high-quality insulation in this area should help prevent that from occurring.
Maintaining continuity of the insulated walls in the home up through the attic floor, and beyond, should guide your insulation upgrades. Air chutes will not be required at the gable ends, unlike the areas inside the soffits, because there is no risk of blocking cold exterior air intrusion, which is critical for maintaining good airflow through the attic.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com.
Renovation & Design
Homeowners and contractors require adequate insurance when renovating
A homeowner considering a renovation should hold a comprehensive insurance policy, as should the contractor who will undertake the work.
Reno companies that quote lowball prices are able to do so because they are generally fly-by-night operations with no insurance of their own.
Since all renovations are subject to glitches -- some much more serious than others -- it is mandatory for homeowners and renovators alike to cover their backsides with adequate insurance.
For example, Mother Nature can be capricious.
In mid-August, the province experienced a cheek-cracking windstorm followed by a biblical downpour that wreaked widespread destruction.
One example of the devastation caused by the storm was a Charleswood home without a roof, removed in preparation for the addition of a new second storey.
The tarps covering the open area were blown off by the powerful wind, and the main floor was deluged by over 20 millimetres of rainfall.
"We were suddenly confronted by a home that required not just a home addition but a complete renovation. The original plan called only for the addition of a second storey and an extension to the back of the house," said Cory Kloos of Macanta Design Build Inc.
Fortunately, the homeowners are fully insured as are Kloos and his partner, Desmond Sweeney. As well, all subcontractors used by the company are required to carry their own insurance policies.
"We're proceeding as far as we can through the project's original plan; however, everyone involved is waiting to hear from the insurance company," Kloos said.
On the bright side, homeowners Mark and Karen Stuart will now be the beneficiaries of a completely renovated home that will include new floors and finished interior walls on the main floor and basement, gutted after the storm.
"It's also a good opportunity to add extra insulation because the old R12 fibreglass batts have been removed from between the studs. Building up the studs to accept R20 batts would not be difficult at this time," Kloos said, adding that largely due to rain damage, the existing basement will be renovated as well.
Meanwhile, a planned main-floor extension with a crawl space has been roughed in to house a larger kitchen with an island and more cabinet space.
The kitchen will have patio doors leading to an outdoor deck and a big picture window to allow the homeowners a view of a glorious backyard, replete with oak, birch, conifers and not-so-wild deer wandering here and there.
On the second floor above the kitchen, an ensuite bedroom with generous windows will also overlook the sublime backyard.
"The owners were considering selling their home but decided against it when they looked at the alternatives -- characterless new homes in sterile suburbs," Kloos said.
Though the Stuart's Charleswood home was built in the early 1950s, it remains a solid Douglas fir-framed structure, which sits on a well-constructed basement with very little of the cracking and settling problems evident in older buildings in other parts of the city.
Their love of the rural-like neighbourhood and its abundant flora and fauna persuaded them to invest in an upgrade from 1,100 square feet to a two-storey structure with about double the living area.
The new upstairs will include an extra bedroom with a dormer as well as a separate sitting area with its own dormer so the couple can look out on the front yard, which also includes tall deciduous and coniferous trees.
All the technical specs have not been clarified to this point; however, Kloos said the basement may contain two separate furnaces and HRVs to ensure the better-insulated renovated upstairs and addition maintain similar temperatures in all seasons.
"It's disconcerting to walk through a house that has hot and cold areas. You don't know whether to wear a T-shirt or a sweater," said Kloos.
In keeping with other houses in the area, the renovation will have a Hardie board exterior on the front elevation and stucco on the sides and back elevations.
Highly moisture-resistant Hardie fibre-cement board comes in many pre-finished colours and is available in designs such as lap siding, shingle or vertical boards and panels.
The material has a traditional look that fits the decor of older parts of the city such as Charleswood.
All of the home's windows will be upgraded to be more energy-efficient with argon gas and a low-e coating.
"We're still awaiting the decision from the insurance company before we begin work on the original main floor and basement," said Kloos. "I think this is a good example of why people should make sure their policy is valid and offers them the requisite coverage before they embark on a major renovation. Also, they should hire a reputable renovator with full coverage for unforeseen damage."
Macanta Design Build Ltd. can be reached at 204-977-6604 and can be found online at www.macantadesignbuild.com.
davidsquare81@yahoo.com
Renovation & Design
Show homes available for your viewing all year long
Although the 2015 Fall Parade of Homes has formally ended, you still have plenty of opportunity to revisit those fantastic show homes you saw during the three weeks of Parade or check out the ones you may have missed. Tens of thousands of people visited 130 new homes by 33 different builders in 35 unique neighbourhoods. It was a whirlwind tour for many, and one couldn't be expected to visit every home, no matter how hard they tried.
Many people have the mistaken notion show homes are only open during the Spring and Fall Parade of Homes. In fact, they are open year-round, and although the hours may not be the same as during Parade, they are able to accommodate all interested clients. Now your interest in a new home has been piqued by the Fall Parade, the timing is perfect to follow up with another visit.
The crowds were generally huge for the past three weeks. Although you received an excellent welcome and introduction to each new home, it was undoubtedly busy, and it may have been difficult for you to have a private conversation with the sales representative. The purchase of a new home is an important decision, and now that you have visited the best new homes in Manitoba, you undoubtedly have a number of questions you would like to ask.
If you took any information literature from the home, it will have the contact number for the sales representative. Call and set up a private viewing and meeting. This will give you an opportunity to get a view in more detail and have a one-on-one conversation without interruption. If you don't have the direct number but recall the name of the builder, call the builder, and they can facilitate your meeting. If you recall the neighbourhood but not the specific house that interested you, the entire Parade of Homes magazine is on the Manitoba Home Builders Association website (homebuilders.mb.ca) or the Winnipeg Free Press website.
The magazine has a listing of all of the homes, where they are located, a brief description of each and the base and selling prices. Whether it was the subdivision or the builder or the particular home that interested you, it's all in the Parade magazine.
The important thing to remember is almost all the wonderful show homes you saw during the Fall Parade of Homes are still available for viewing. The Parade may be over, but the opportunity to purchase your new dream home has just begun.
Mike Moore is president of the Manitoba Home Builders Association.
Renovation & Design
Split-level home offers unique stucco-repair challenge
Question: I have a problem with the stucco on my house breaking away where the wall meets the foundation. This house is a four-level split and was built in 1981. Originally, the stucco extended all the way to the ground, with the coloured stucco ending at the foundation and grey stucco covering the concrete foundation.
The grey stucco has fallen off completely, leaving the bottom edge of the buffalo board exposed.
The same problem exists on my detached garage as well. I notice stucco extending to the ground is the common practice here in Winnipeg, but isn't this asking for moisture to be wicked up into the stucco? I am concerned the exposed board will get damaged by moisture, as well as rotting the sill plate, or be a path for insect infestation. When winter comes, I can expect snow to be drifting up against the wall.
A friend had the same problem and had a rotting sill plate that had to be replaced, and carpenter ants had started working at the wood, leaving large mounds of sawdust.
Searching online shows some contractors swearing by installing a weep screed at the bottom of the wood/stucco, and some recommendations specify having at least 20 centimetres of clearance from grade to any stucco. What is the best way to seal the bottom edge of the stucco on the wall, and should there be stucco on the concrete foundation? Randall Wiebe-Dembowski
Answer: Most typical homes the age of yours will have little concern with the purely cosmetic, stucco-like parging on the foundation walls coming off, but yours may be quite different due to the style. Sealing a small crack where the stucco has deteriorated at the top of a foundation is easily accomplished, but may be markedly different on a split-level home. I will outline the differences and suggest repairs for both typical and low-height foundations.
Developing a small crack or gap at the bottom of a typical stucco wall, just over top of the foundation, is quite normal. This often occurs because the stucco wire cannot be easily secured to the concrete foundation and may crack or fall off due to movement and differential shrinkage between the concrete foundation and wooden house walls.
These types of cracks are rarely a sign of any significant issue and can normally be filled or sealed with exterior-grade caulking or stucco-patching material. The caulking will prevent moisture from entering the gap, preventing damage to the sheathing below. Care should be taken not to totally fill this gap if it is underneath the bottom of the stucco, as this small space may allow excess moisture that penetrates the stucco during heavy rains to drain. Filling that type of gap fairly well should prevent excessive pest and moisture intrusion.
The problem with many split-level homes is due to the different heights of the foundation or floor levels in different areas of the building. Unlike a standard bungalow or two-storey home, where the foundation is poured to a single, common height above grade, your home's foundation may have several different heights. Often, parts of the lower-level foundation will be framed with a wooden knee-wall to even things out or support one level of the floor joists. The problem is the bottom of this knee-wall may be near of just slightly above grade. If this is the area of concern in your home, more involved repairs are likely.
The problem with the knee-wall style of design, or if the floor joists themselves are sitting in or on the foundation just above grade, is potential moisture damage. As you have pointed out, this area will be subject to rot and decay from excessive wetting from melting snow or damp soil. I am not surprised your friend's home had this problem occur, which I have seen numerous times in that situation.
The key in determining if you need more involved repairs or simple caulking is the height above grade. Any siding materials, and the wall sheathing beneath, should be a minimum of 20 cm above grade, as you have discovered online. That much room will allow for good drainage after a heavy rain, prevent wicking of moisture from the soil or a wet concrete foundation and prevent snow from sitting against the wall when the spring melt begins. Any lower than that and moisture damage to the siding, sheathing, or wall and floor framing is likely.
If you discover that the true stucco walls are close to grade on your home, and not just a concrete foundation covered with parging that mimics the stucco in appearance, more invasive repairs should be done.
The only way to prevent the occurrence of the issue in your friend's home is to waterproof this area much better than originally done. Cutting away a few centimetres of stucco and building paper, to allow the required 20-cm minimum clearance, should expose the sheathing beneath. If visible rot is seen in the sheathing or framing, that must be removed and replaced before continuing.
If it is still in satisfactory condition, it should be waterproofed completely with a bitumen-based membrane or other protective coating. These materials are normally used for foundations, but may be just as effective in your application.
Once applied, the membrane should be covered with moisture-resistant sheathing, parging or other covering to prevent damage. The underside of the cut stucco can be capped with a galvanized metal J-channel, or other trim, to improve appearance and allow the waterproofing membrane to be installed under the bottom of this area for maximum protection.
You are absolutely correct that the practice of installing stucco close to grade on older split-level homes can cause moisture damage to the walls and floor structure. This may only appear after several decades, due to settlement and replacement of eroded soil, or may have started shortly after construction, and preventive measures should be installed. Simple patching or caulking of any cracks or gaps may be fine if the walls are sufficiently above grade to prevent serious moisture damage, but more extensive waterproofing will be warranted if it is too close to the ground.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Have fire extinguishers inspected by a professional
Question: How often should I replace my fire extinguisher? Joel, Winnipeg
Answer: You only need to replace a fire extinguisher if it needs replacing. With that said, fire extinguishers should be maintained at least once a year or when specifically indicated by an inspection. An inspection by a professional is intended to give maximum assurance that an extinguisher will operate effectively and safely. The inspection includes a thorough examination and any necessary repair, recharging or replacement. If the extinguisher is damaged or needs recharging, replace it immediately.
Question: My boyfriend burps in public, he thinks it's really funny. I find it embarrassing, especially during a wedding ceremony. What is the proper burping etiquette? Tammy, Arborg
Answer: Begin by asking your boyfriend if he is able to control his burps. If so, explain to him that his gassy victories embarrass you, because you were taught burping loudly in public is rude. Keep in mind some people find it difficult to silence their belches and may laugh to cover up their embarrassment. Handle the situation with sensitivity and tact.
Question: My son drew all over our whiteboard with permanent marker. I scrubbed for 10 minutes, but the marker didn't budge. Is the whiteboard garbage? Vessa, Winnipeg
Answer: Using a dry erase marker; scribble over the entire board. Wipe the board with a soft cloth and the permanent marker will disappear.
Question: What is meant by HE detergents for front-end-loader washing machines? Thank you. Luke (Brunkild, Man.)
Answer: HE stands for high efficiency detergent, which is specially made for front-end-loading washing machines. HE detergent produces fewer suds and makes good use of water inside the machine. HE detergent is not suited for older washing machines and may become a problem over time. Since HE detergent produces less sudsing, excess detergent residue is less likely to remain in fabrics from one cycle to the next. Typically, HE detergents do not cost more than normal detergents, and they are readily available. Using proper HE detergent for your high-efficiency low-water washer will enable your laundry appliance to perform as it should.
Manitoba shares
-- I would like to share a great tip that I learned about preventing rabbits and/or deer from chewing shrubs/trees. Wrap the base of your trees/larger shrubs (when possible) with plastic (take it off in spring). Spray plant with No Bite; Tree and Plant Protector. The current winter forecast is for a low snow accumulation. When we had 10 feet of snow, rabbits girdled the upper branches of the Cotoneaster's in River Heights and Tuxedo and did so thoroughly, more succumbed than didn't. It took me weeks to figure out what could have done damage that high up until I realized the snow was there. and those cute little bunnies don't weigh much. Charlotte (Charlotte's Place, Winnipeg)
-- We had a problem with mice nesting in our attic. The exterminator was at our home regularly, but the mice returned every year. Last year I purchased a big container of pepper and sprinkled some of it in the attic. No mice since. Jesse, Winnipeg
-- No-cook easy pizza sauce
In a bowl stir together: one (six ounce can) tomato paste, one cup water, one-third cup olive oil, two cloves, minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste, one tbsp. dried oregano and half tbsp. dried basil. Spread onto pizza and can or freeze remainder.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Need a presenter on the topic: Effective Speaking or The Power of Words? Check out: Reena.ca
