Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Epoxy mix should fix scratched porcelain sink
QUESTION: I enjoy reading your helpful tips. How would you suggest getting surface scratches out of lovely, white porcelain kitchen sinks? I have tried baking soda, Magic Eraser, bleach and vinegar but nothing works. The scratches are not penetrating, they are just on the surface (from pots and pans, etc.). Look forward to anything you can suggest as they are only two years old. Thank you. Nicky (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: Even if the scratches are not deep, they are still scratches and using a cleaner such as baking soda or vinegar will not erase the damage. You will need to purchase a porcelain repair kit from your local hardware store. With the colour-match epoxy mixed according to the directions and a sponge, you will likely end up with great results.
QUESTION: Would you have any recipes for making toothpaste? I have a disorder known as chemical sensitivity and would rather stick with common household ingredients for making my own hygiene products. Janet (Duck Mountain, Man.)
ANSWER: Baking soda is a great alternative for people struggling with chemical sensitivity. Baking soda is packed with great properties for whitening and absorbing odour. All you need to do is wet your toothbrush with water and dip it in baking soda, then brush your teeth as usual. If you want to put the cleaning power of baking soda to the test, clean a seashell and see if there is a difference between the cleaning power of commercial toothpaste versus baking soda.
Fabulous tips of the week
-- I bought a big screw hook from a department store and fixed it under one of my cupboards. Now whenever I purchase bananas, I hang them on the screw. They don't have to sit on the counter and they seem to last longer. Submitted by: Landon (St. Agathe, Man.)
-- I purchased a wire shelf and positioned it vertically instead of horizontally. I then secured it inside one of my closets between two walls to create a fence. I now stand my wrapping paper rolls up between the shelf and the wall and they stay organized. Submitted by: Debbie (Winnipeg)
Easy 2014 Valentine contest:
Submit one sentence that affected your life, either positively or negatively. All entries will be entered into a draw to win the complete bestselling book series, 1, 2 and 3 Household Solutions. Deadline: Feb. 28, 2014. Mailing address: Reena Nerbas, Box 429, Blumenort, MB R0A 0C0 Email: householdsolutions@mts.net.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a motivational speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my website, Reena.ca.
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Soil moisture key to sinking basement floors
QUESTION: I have a 2800-square-foot, split-level home on the Assiniboine river in Westwood. Over the past few years, with dry summers and limited rain, the floor in one section of the lower level has dropped around two inches. There are no cracks in the walls or window frames. We were told when we purchased the home 20 years ago that it was on piles and the floor was not anchored into the foundation.
Is this normal for river property and, with rehydration of the soil, will the floor elevate to pre-existing level?
Thank you, Jim Thliveris
ANSWER: Unfortunately, it's quite normal for there to be significant swelling and shrinkage in the soil under basement floor slabs in our area. Being in close proximity to the river may be a contributing factor, but cracking and shifting of concrete floors can occur almost anywhere in the Red River Valley.
You may see some rebound in the sunken concrete once normal soil moisture levels return, but likely not enough to prevent the need for eventual repairs.
Basement concrete floor slabs primarily serve two functions in most homes. They prevent moisture, insects and dirt from entering our homes by providing a solid surface over the soil, and they provide lateral strength to prevent the bottom of the foundation from bowing inward due to soil pressure.
In most homes, these thick, non-reinforced concrete slabs are poured directly over a thin polyethylene sheet installed on top of a layer of pea gravel or round stone. Pea gravel is used because it lacks sharp edges and has good flexibility, which prevents damage to weeping tiles and plumbing pipes below this area.
The drawback of using this type of granular fill on top of the naturally occurring expansive clay soil underneath, is the lack compressive strength. Changes in soil moisture may occur in varying degrees in different areas of the hollowed-out basement excavation. This can create uneven areas of expansion and contraction, which creates different forces on different areas of the basement slab above. This uneven movement may also be partially due to different soil composition in various layers, especially if there is silt in some locations. That is more likely in areas near rivers, like your home.
The uneven movement of the soil beneath your basement floor can cause some areas of the concrete to heave upwards, while others may stay put or drop. Because this "floating slab" is not reinforced with steel or anchored into the foundation, these uneven forces will cause the cracks you are seeing.
In some cases, soil erosion underneath the slab occurs because of differing soil compositions, damaged weeping tiles or poor backfilling. That's what has likely caused your floor to sink in one area only. As the moisture in the soil outside your foundation drops because of hot, dry summer weather, major shrinkage can occur.
Uneven soil shrinkage can occur because many different variables can affect moisture levels, including direction of foundation walls, vegetation outside the area, grading, downspout termination locations, and proximity to the river.
South- and west-facing foundation walls have a tendency to have drier soil because of the warming effects of the sun. Also, erosion of the soil on the riverbank may not be visible to the naked eye, but may cause settling of your entire yard in that direction.
All of this could be causing a loss of soil underneath your foundation walls, which may be partially replaced by fill sliding in from under your basement floor. In that scenario, a small void could be created under the concrete, causing your slab to sink.
This is similar to the "sinkholes" we sometimes see on the nightly news, which occur under roadways and swallow up vehicles or large sections of pavement when they collapse. While a similar catastrophe is unlikely in your basement, taking some steps to prevent a worsening of the situation may be wise.
The first thing to do is to ensure that soil outside your foundation, particularly on the south side and river side is replaced if it is eroding or shrinking. Simply shovelling soil against the foundation and in low areas, covering it with sod or grass seed, should help prevent further shrinkage.
Regular watering of these areas and any nearby trees is critical to prevent loss of soil in dry weather. While it may not be possible to water enough for a replenishment of the soil underneath your foundation, keeping the upper layers of soil moist may prevent excessive drying and shrinking of the soil deep down. Keeping trees properly hydrated will not only prevent soil erosion, it will help stop deep roots from removing what little moisture is still in the clay near the bottom of your foundation.
Ultimately, the only real solution to your problem is to remove the concrete, replace the missing fill and re-pour new concrete to provide a more even surface. But since there's no guarantee that this type of repair will be permanent, it should only be done if the slab is seriously damaged.
Maintaining better soil moisture outside your home is a better alternative to a messy and costly concrete repair.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Washing soda great for oven racks
QUESTION: How can I clean oven racks by soaking them in borax and water? I tried once and it worked fantastically but I have misplaced the information and don't know how much borax to use. Cathy (Killarney, MB)
ANSWER: An easy way to clean a non-self-cleaning oven is to sprinkle the bottom of the oven with baking soda. Pour white vinegar over the baking soda, let bubble and soak for 30 minutes. Wipe and rinse with water.
In the meantime, put an old towel on the bottom of your bathtub, fill it with hot water and one cup of washing soda (if you cannot find washing soda, borax is an alternative). Let oven racks soak overnight and in the morning (while wearing gloves) rinse the racks and wipe with vinegar. Caution: Never leave water in a bathtub overnight if young children are accessible.
You can also use borax to make an all-purpose cleaner for countertops, walls, backsplashes etc. In a spray bottle, combine 2 tsp. borax with four cups hot water. Add 1 tsp. dish soap and 4 tbsp. white vinegar. Shake, spray and wipe.
QUESTION: We have a two-storey, slab, on-grade home. The main living area is on the first floor where we have an open fireplace. On the ground floor we have a wood-burning stove. Both fires are served by a single exterior masonry chimney with a separate flue for each unit.
The problem is that in cool damp weather the flue for the wood-burner backdrafts and we end up with an acrid smell in the house. We have tried putting in a new stove, stuffing paper in the door and latching it ,and even tried putting bowls of kitty litter in the stove without success. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks. Anne and Dick, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Cozy up in front of a woodstove on a frigid day and you won't want to leave your home, but sometimes the unwelcome smell of a woodstove can send you running. You were smart to replace the older wood stove with an airtight model that will reduce harmful emissions because even if you wisely and thoroughly clean the stove box often, any traces of ashes will fill the room with odour.
Here are a few additional solutions to try: Close the damper whenever not in use. Add a top sealing damper and a tight fitting glass fireplace screen. Pouring vinegar into the box of the screen will not be strong enough to combat the odor which is coming from the pipe and sides and top of the box, proper sealing is your best solution.
QUESTION: I have a blue shirt that leaves my body blue. I've soaked it in vinegar and also a salt solution. I really love the shirt but hate having to shower every time I wear it. It was an expensive shirt and purchased in an airport so I can't return it. Michelle, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Sometimes textiles are not completely colorfast and soaking them in vinegar or salt helps. However, it sounds as though the dye used to make your shirt is faulty.
Check the manufacturer's label on the shirt and contact the company to explain the situation. Many companies will send you an offer to reimburse at least part of your cost. Another option is to head to a store that usually carries fabric dye because they often also sell dye treatments that set textile dye. If you cannot find a color set product, purchase dye remover and then re-dye the fabric.
Easy 2014 Valentine Contest
Send me one sentence that someone said to you that affected your life, either positively or negatively. All responses will be eligible to win the complete bestselling book series, 1, 2 and 3 Household Solutions. Deadline: Feb. 14, 2014. Mailing Address: Reena Nerbas, Box 429, Blumenort, MB R0A 0C0 Email: householdsolutions@mts.net
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a motivational speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my website Reena.ca.