Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Soap, baking soda and SALT will get pans gleaming
Question: My frying pans are pretty old, and the bottoms are blackened. Is there an easy way to clean them, or are they beyond saving? Thank you, Frankie
Answer: No need to toss usable cookware. Turn the pan upside down and sprinkle the bottom with a liberal amount of salt, baking powder and dish soap. Lay dishcloths on the surface and pour vinegar onto the area. Wait for 15 minutes and scrub with a scrubby cloth.
Question: Can you tell me how to easily clean the oven window?
Answer: While the oven is off, open the door. Sprinkle the window with baking soda. Pour hot water onto the glass and scrub with crumpled up aluminum foil. Wipe with a good quality microfiber cloth.
Question: How can I reduce the mess on my baking sheets when cooking bacon? S.J.
Answer: Double line the pan with aluminum foil to cut down on the mess.
Question: I would like to bake many apple pies to give away at Christmas. Is there a fast way to peel the apples, using a potato peeler? S.J.
Answer: Slice off the top and bottom of the apple. Stand the apple on your counter on one of the sliced sides. Hold your potato peeler against the top section of the apple. Turn the apple continuously, the peel should fall off in one long strip.
Feedback
Re: Pilling
I don’t have a tool to remove pilling on sweaters, so I use a pumice stone. Rub the fabric with the stone and then use a lint roller to pick up the little pills. — Jesse
I use a razor to clean up the pilling on sweaters because I’m too cheap to purchase a pilling tool. By the way, I store the blade of my razor inside a binder clip so that I don’t accidentally cut myself when I’m not using the razor. Joyce
Update Re: Lingering Coffee Smell in Contigo Mug
I used the newspaper solution and stuffed the mug. I left it for 48 hours, not much improvement. I changed the newspaper (which I secured with an elastic band) and left if for a few more days — still not a great improvement. Changed it again and then forgot about it (over a week). Some improvement. Changed it once again and left it for another week, maybe more. The result — I would say the coffee smell and taste has been 98 per cent removed. Persistence prevailed! So thank you very much for your great advice. I am very pleased. Best wishes, Lesley
Bring on the Holiday Baking!
Did you know? The word cookie is derived from Dutch, and it means, little cake.
The most popular cookie in Canada? You guessed it, your favorite and mine the never disappointing chocolate chip cookie!
But…do you know what is even better than homemade chocolate chip cookies? Nutella stuffed chocolate chip sandwich cookies. Bake cookies as usual, cool, and then spread or pipe Nutella on the bottom of one cookie. Add another cookie on top to create a sandwich. Yum!
Prevent gingerbread house pieces from falling apart by holding them together with edible glue. Melt sugar in a pot until brown. Be cautious not to burn the sugar. Dip the edge of each piece in the melted sugar and hold them in place for a few seconds before letting go. Royal icing is another edible glue option.
Storebought, boxed sugar cookie dough will give you the option of adding butter or margarine to the mix. Always choose butter, this will give your cookies a more authentic flavor. Chill dough before rolling and cutting it out, this helps cookies hold their shape.
When baking cookies, begin with room temperature ingredients.
For perfectly even, shortbread cookies, place the dough inside a large, open, sealable bag. Roll out the dough until it is a square, press it into all four corners. Chill in the fridge. Remove from the bag. Slice, or shape cookies, and then bake.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip? Email reenanerbas@outlook.com
Renovation & Design
Sauna insulation causes permit issues
Questions: I’m writing you in your capacity as a home inspection expert with a vexing question I hope you can answer. We have hired you in the past to inspect our home, so we have been your clients in the past. I am in the process of building a sauna in the basement of my home and have used an aluminum foil vapour barrier. This product, manufactured by a company called MWS, was ordered online and came in a box with no specs or CGSB certification visible. City building inspectors have refused to sign off on my project because they are apparently unfamiliar with the product. So my question is, does this product, or aluminum foil vapour barrier in general, comply with CGSB standards, and is there a way to prove this to a particularly rule-bound building inspector? If you are able to shed light on this, I would be eternally grateful. I am unable to continue with my project until I resolve it, so many thanks for any advice. Yours truly and with appreciation, Caelum Vatnsdal.
Answer: Proving that your unusual building product meets the intent of the building codes may be possible, if you can get more information. Alternatively, changing the design of the sauna to move it away from an exterior wall may make the requirement for an air/vapour barrier a moot point, and should be an easier solution to your problem.
There may be two solutions for your material compatibility issue, one likely much easier than the first. The first would be to explore more about the foil sheathing you wish to use as the air/vapour barrier. This would likely require fairly exhaustive online research, and even a few phone calls to the distributor or manufacturer to see if you can get any further specs or evidence of laboratory testing. If the product is not made in North America, it may be next to impossible to source that information. If you are able to seek out the manufacturer, they may be able to send you some literature from a reputable testing lab with specs on permeability. If they are similar to the ratings for 6MIL polyethylene, then the building official may be persuaded to allow its use. Otherwise, you may have to use your product in conjunction with the poly, to comply.
Because the sauna does produce significant heat, there are two issues to address when installing it up against an exterior wall in your basement. The first issue will be condensation in the insulated wall cavity inside the foundation. Because of the additional heated air potentially contacting the cold foundation wall, condensation risk is elevated. Because of this, a good air/vapour barrier material inside of the insulation is critical. 6MIL polyethylene sheathing is still the standard material used with conventional batt insulation in this situation. It should do an adequate job of preventing air intrusion into the wall cavity, as long as it is properly sealed around any protrusions, studs, floor joists, and the basement floor. The foil sheathing may not have as low a permeability rating, or may be too easily punctured to provide as good protection.
The other issue with the extra heat from the sauna is possible damage to combustible building materials. If the heat is excessive, it could damage the poly and some sealants over time. This would certainly increase the chances of warm air intrusion into the wall cavity, and the possibility of condensation and moisture damage. I assume that is the reason for your desire to use the foil sheathing, as the reflective properties of the foil may help prevent some radiant heat from entering the exterior wall. Unfortunately, the foil sheathing could have other components that may also be affected by the sauna heat, and may not hold up, even as well as the 6MIL poly. As an alternative, you could talk to the city building official and ask if using both sheathings together, with the foil closest to the sauna wall sheathing, is acceptable. This would not add much additional work or expense, and you would be able to use your online purchased product.
My other suggestion, which may be the simplest to satisfy all parties involved, would be to alter the design of the sauna to prevent the need for an air/vapour barrier, altogether. If the sauna was moved away from the exterior wall, to leave a significant airspace, there would be no need for the poly installation. By not using an exterior insulated wall as one of the sauna walls, there would be no requirement for insulation or an air/vapour barrier. You could still use the reflective foil sheathing and batt insulation, if desired, to keep the heat inside the sauna compartment, without worrying about condensation against the cold foundation wall. There may still be some potential condensation issues on the cooler basement components, but those should be easily solved with better ventilation of the area. That would still be a possibility, even if the sauna was up against the exterior wall, in your current design.
Replacing traditional 6MIL poly air/vapour barrier sheathing with foil sheathing for your new basement sauna may be possible, but would require proof from the manufacturer that it is as good and durable as the poly, which may not be easy to obtain. Moving the sauna away from the exterior wall, and allowing airflow all around the unit, should negate the need for any air/vapour barrier and may be a simpler and more practical solution to your dilemma and allow a quicker completion of your project.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and a Registered Home Inspector (RHI)(cahpi.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Microfiber cloth great for cleaning your phone
Question: What can I use to clean my cell phone without damaging it? Andrea
Answer: Purchase a soft microfiber cloth. Wipe the phone with a solution of 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water. Use the damp cloth to polish each side, including the screen.
Question: In preparing for the holidays, I am planning on having a few Christmas parties at my house. We will be serving vegetarian food choices: cheese, crackers and cabbage soup. What can I do to make my house smell good? Thank you for your column. Benito
Answer: Consider serving a fragrant drink. Before company arrives, fill a slow cooker with a British drink known as wassail. Let the aroma of Christmas fill the air all evening while guests help themselves to a delicious cup of this hot drink. Combine one quart (1 L) apple cider, four cinnamon sticks, one whole nutmeg, half cup (125 mL) honey, quarter cup (60 mL) lemon juice. Simmer the wassail on the stove or in a slow cooker and encourage guests to help themselves.
Question: What can I do to prevent pilling on my winter sweaters? Ellice
Answer: Those little fuzz balls can be prevented with a few simple steps. Before washing sweaters, turn them inside out. Add a half cup of vinegar to the wash load. Avoid putting sweaters in the dryer, this is an effective way to prevent pilling. Try not to overload your clothes in the washing machine, fabrics that rub together can add to the damage. When the damage is done, purchase a fabric shaver to remove the balls.
Question: How can I make boxed pancakes that taste more like restaurant pancakes? What is the difference? Yolanda
Answer: The first difference between home kitchen versus commercial kitchen pancakes is the griddle. Restaurants typically use a cooking surface that cooks pancakes evenly, and crispy around the edges. Use buttermilk instead of water or regular milk. If you don’t have buttermilk, add a little vinegar to your regular milk. Flip the pancakes when you see bubbles appear. For better texture, add an egg to the batter. Grease the pan with butter instead of oil. Add flavor such as vanilla or cinnamon to the batter.
Friendly feedback
Re: Shovelling snow
My best tip for shovelling is to spray the shovel with WD-40 before I start shovelling. This extra step prevents my shovel from rusting and stops the snow from sticking to the surface. This is information that every Manitoban should have — pass it on. — Norman
Gift wrapping hacks
Instead of traditional wrapping paper, consider purchasing a roll of brown contractor’s paper from a home improvement store, or a second-hand store. The paper is inexpensive and lasts a long time. Add embellishments such as bows, bells, pine branches or pinecones to each package.
Make an ordinary gift appear unique and extra special by purchasing a festive box from a dollar store. Wrap each object using tissue paper. Tie a bow around the box. Make sure to remove all price tags.
Instead of a bow, tie chocolate or a candy cane or a cookie cutter to the outside of each gift.
Attach a bread tag to the cut edge of tape on the roll, this will make it much easier to find your place.
Never cut another crooked line, use laser scissors, and direct your cut in the right direction.
Make gift cards using last year’s Christmas cards.
Gift bags are not recyclable, consider a more environmentally friendly way to package your presents.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip?
reenanerbas@outlook.com
Renovation & Design
Insulation, heat will help prevent crawlspace condensation
Questions: I really appreciated an article you wrote on heating a crawlspace. I live in Ottawa and am currently debating how to make a cottage warmer and more comfortable. We have a cottage that is on piers/posts that we mainly use in three seasons, but enjoy visiting for a handful of weekends in the winter. We’ve noticed quite a bit of condensation in the cold days under our couches, etc., where air circulation does not happen. I was planning on having the floor sprayed underneath with foam insulation. After reading your article I am doubting if I should continue with this expensive plan. I can see the benefit of sealing off the crawlspace. Since I only plan to use the cottage a few times in the winter, I typically shut off the power. Do you see any issue with heating the crawlspace and letting all of this go through freeze/thaw cycles?
Regards, Bob Botti.
Answer: Insulating an open floor of a seasonal home, even with high density spray foam, will do little to prevent condensation or minimize issues with an infrequently used building. Enclosing, insulating, and heating the crawlspace is a better way to go to make it more comfortable when you are able to use it in the winter months.
Your submission comes at a time where I annually address this frequently confounding issue, for people with seasonal homes. Many cottage owners and contractors have battled this question about whether to insulate an open floor of a cottage, or install an insulated skirt to enclose a crawlspace below. I fit in both of these categories, being both a summer home owner and ex-contractor, and will tell you that there should only be one choice that will provide any sort of satisfaction. Having attempted the open, insulated floor method on more than one occasion, all have later had the insulation and air/vapour barrier removed and replaced with an insulated crawlspace. Admittedly, none of these floors were done with spray foam, as it was not readily available a few decades ago. But, in hindsight that may not have made much of a difference. For any residential property in our climate, home or cottage, a heated crawlspace will lead to a much more comfortable living space above the floor.
The reason for this is due to the simple scientific principal that tells us that warm air rises. In a building, this phenomenon has been termed the “stack effect” by building scientists and engineers. Understanding how much this affects air movement inside and outside the entire building enclosure has changed the way buildings are designed and built in the last few decades. Because of the stack effect, almost no heat loss from air leakage will occur from the living space through the floor, insulated or not. Insulation may help prevent radiant or conductive heat loss through this area, which should only be a minor amount. High density foam should prevent cold air infiltration from below the floor, which may help keep it from being really cold in the dead of winter, but will not make it much comfortable to walk on. Only adding heat to an open airspace underneath will provide a noticeable warming effect on the floor joists, sheathing, and flooring above.
Skirting in and insulating the walls of the crawlspace with high density polyurethane spray foam, or extruded polystyrene sheathing, will ensure the space may be heated either continually or periodically over the cold months. The dirt floor should be covered with a layer of 6MIL polyethylene sheathing, or equivalent, to prevent drawing excessive moisture into the enclosed space from the moist soil. A few screened summer vents, at all sides of the enclosed space, will help remove excess moisture, which can be replaced with insulated hatches in the fall.
Another benefit of heating the crawlspace will be to allow year-round use of plumbing supply and fixtures. Even by heating the entire cottage to normal levels, there may be no way of ensuring water supply pipes don’t freeze in or below an insulated floor system. As long as the heat source is reliable, typically electric heaters or ducts from a forced air furnace, a warmed crawlspace should prevent frozen plumbing supply pipes. These will still have to be drained if you do plan to shut the heat entirely, but leaving the thermostats set low should prevent frozen pipes. That will also save energy and money, preventing the need to keep it at normal room temperatures when no one is there.
If you do leave the plumbing shut off and drained during the cold weather, there should be little problem with turning of the heat for the crawlspace, for long periods of time. This may allow some frost to build up, from frozen condensation inside the enclosed crawlspace, but that should melt when the heat is restored, sit on the surface of the floor poly, and evaporate in the spring when the summer vents are installed. That method may not do much for the condensation you have observed on the floor, which may still return every time you shut of the power and subsequent heat in the building. For that issue, leaving a couple of ceiling or portable fans on when the place is vacant may help with air movement. Also, if you have a wood burning fireplace, leaving the hearth doors and flue open should provide a natural vent for the living space, as long as you have a proper rain cap and screen to prevent pest and snow infiltration.
Foam insulating a cottage floor may do nothing to prevent condensation in the unheated, enclosed living space above. Providing some air movement and ventilation, through use of fans and fireplace flues, may be a better approach. Either way, enclosing, insulating, and heating a crawlspace below the floor will make it much more comfortable and prevent condensation when you are using the building during the cold months.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and a Registered Home Inspector (RHI)(cahpi.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
