Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Use hot water to keep your towels fresh
Question: I need help cleaning hand towels. Mine always get dark and greyish where people repeatedly wipe their hands in the middle of the folded towel, and I cannot get these darker areas clean with regular laundry soap. I have tried soaking them in laundry detergent, bleach — which is risky when they are lighter colored towels and letting them sit for hours with stain remover on them. They just end up looking like dirty towels no matter how much I wash them. Do you have any tips for me to try? At this point when they get too bad, I am just using them for rags. Thanks! Lori
Answer: This may be an issue of the dye not being colourfast. I had a similar experience, I finally realized that it was a result of the products people were using on their face and hands. In my case, the towels are permanently ruined because the towels were ‘bleached’. It sounds like your towels are also discoloring because of products. Try tossing the towels into the bathtub and soaking them in hot water and either washing soda, baking soda or borax. Whenever washing towels, use hot water for the best cleaning results. In the machine, add one-cup vinegar to the load. Lastly, Egypt, Turkey and Portugal are known as the manufacturers of some of the best towels in the world; spend a little more and they should last you awhile.
Question: What is the best solution for storing a fake Christmas wreath? Amrit
Answer: Begin by blowing the dust off using a hair dryer. Next place the wreath inside an empty garbage bag with salt, and shake. If you happen to have one of those plastic bags that you get when you purchase a blanket, that is a great storage option! You can also use a suitcase, plastic bin, or cover it with a plastic bag, make a knot on the bottom and hang it on the wall where your decorations are stored. Wherever you store it, make a note of it so that you are not scrambling to find it in November.
Speaking of Christmas decorations:
Store small tree decorations in empty egg cartons.
To store gift wrap rolls so they don’t unravel, cut an empty toilet roll vertically. Wrap the toilet paper roll around the gift wrap.
The Best Catch of the Day
For the perfect, flaky texture to cooked fish, let it rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.
When frying fish, cook the skin side down first, and leave it alone. The skin might stick at first but should release within minutes.
To get rid of the odour after cooking fish, boil a little vinegar on the stove to absorb the smell. Add cinnamon or essential oils to the pot if desired.
To reduce the smell of fish while cooking, soak it in milk for 20 minutes before cooking. Wrap the fish in parchment paper while cooking: only use parchment paper if cooking temperature does not exceed 400 degrees. When reheating, cover the fish pan with aluminum foil.
For safety reasons, avoid refreezing fish that was already thawed.
While cleaning your fish tank or bowl, only remove 50 percent of the water. Use the water removed to water your plants, the nitrates are great for plants.
If you use vinegar to clean your fishbowl, make sure that the bowl is well rinsed before re-adding the fish. If you live in a city, consider using distilled water, instead of tap water to avoid adding chemicals that may hurt the fish.
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip? NEW EMAIL: reenanerbas@outlook.com
Renovation & Design
Proper ventilation required to keep attic high and dry
Questions: We moved into a bungalow with a low-sloping roof four years ago. Last winter, and this winter, we started having problems with the amount of snow on our two bathroom rooftop vents, and one oven rooftop vent. Last year, the snow was so high above the gooseneck style vents that water entered the attic from the oven vent and water came back down through the fan in the bathroom. There was a lot of ice buildup from the hot humid air escaping through the vents. I went on the roof and removed the snow and that fixed the problem for the moment. However, going on the roof after each snowstorm is not safe or sustainable. Each vent is also in an area where there is a lot of snow buildup.
As I see it, my options are to stop using the fans in winter, which is not a great thing, but better than having water in the attic. Shovel the snow off the vents several times a year, which is not safe. Or, redirect the vents from the roof to the side and then either remove the roof vents and cap the holes in the roof, or leave the vents to act as simple attic vents.
Option three is possibly the best long-term solution, but also the most complicated and expensive. Since our roof is so low sloping, there is no room to run an exhaust pipe from the bathroom vents to the side of the house, as both bathroom vents are near the center of the roof. There is not enough space in the attic to vent new air ducts. The exhaust vent for the oven is easier to fix since our oven is against the exterior wall and we could make a hole in the side wall there to have a side vent. However, this causes another issue, can the hot exhaust run back into the soffit and the attic. Also, could cold air and outdoor noise be a factor with having an exterior vent so close to the oven?
One contractor suggested running exhaust pipes from the bathrooms down to the basement and out the side. However, how efficient would this be trying to push hot humid air down to the basement and out? Could the two bathroom exhaust pipes be redirected into our current HRV unit? The advantage is that we would not have to make another hole in the side of the house for exhaust and use less piping to get it outside. We currently have one basement bathroom vent that runs to the HRV unit. However, using the HRV certainly does not have the same suction power as a dedicated exhaust pipe for a bathroom fan only. Which option do you suggest?
Thank you for any suggestions you may have, Paul Doyle.
I do not use my bathroom fan in the winter, so I blocked off the openings thinking it would prevent warm air from getting into the attic. I once had an insulation contractor come in and they said too much condensation is entering the attic, hence the occasional leaking in my living room. Is this a good thing for me to do?
Thanking you in advance, Lynda.
Answer:
Ensuring good ventilation from bathrooms and kitchens is essential to preventing condensation and moisture issues from occurring in attics. Rerouting problematic roof vents and ducts may be the only way to prevent periodic leakage, unless you are very diligent about regular inspection and snow removal.
I am answering both of your similar questions, which came in response to my last column about snow-covered plumbing stacks. While the second respondent has taken the unusual step of not using and covering their bathroom exhaust fan, the first home’s moisture issue may be easier, but more costly, to address.
In response to Lynda’s direct question, the direct answer is a certain no! It is a very bad idea to stop using the bathroom exhaust fan in the heating season and blocking it will do nothing to help the situation. Both of those actions will only help drive more humid air into the attic. Firstly, the humid air from showering and bathing must be exhausted out of the bathroom as quickly and efficiently at possible to prevent mould growth in the bathroom. Secondly, covering the fan and discontinued use will only help drive more moisture into the attic due to the stack effect, which has been discussed numerous times in this column. So, a better solution would be to insulate and air seal the bathroom fan duct and housing in the attic, or replace the entire system if it is not properly functioning, but never discontinue its use.
As for the first home in question, having a low-slope roof can make entering and alterations within the attic very difficult. As discussed above, your first option of discontinued use is a no-no. Relocating the vent hoods to the gable ends, with improved insulated ducts above the ceiling, is a viable option but will depend on how accessible the attic is. The third option is certainly the best option, depending on the configuration of your HRV. It will likely require opening up some walls to run ducting directly to the basement unit, but will allow complete removal of the ceiling fans, ducts, and roof vent hoods, which will certainly stop the leakage. Having the HRV cross-connected to the furnace blower should allow it to move the air through the home properly, as long as it is properly installed and set-up.
Removing rooftop snow that is covering your exhaust fan vent hoods may be the simplest solution to periodic leakage, but certainly not the safest or easiest method. Relocating the vent hoods and ducts, or installing new ducting connected to a good HRV, may be better choices but will add significant expenses to the fix.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and a Registered Home Inspector (RHI)(cahpi.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Freeze leftover cookies to preserve the goodness
Question: I have a lot of leftover Christmas cookies, how can I prevent them from becoming freezer burnt in the freezer?
Answer: Homemade cookies store well for about three months, in the freezer. Layer the cooled cookies between sheets of parchment paper in a sealable container. Lay a sheet of plastic or foil over the top layer before closing the lid.
Question: I moved into an old home, and the concrete driveway is plastered with old stains. Is concrete cleaner an effective solution in bringing the driveway back to life? Edward
Answer: Concrete cleaner or degreaser is especially effective for porous concrete; here are a few alternatives and tips. The fresher the stains, the easier they are to remove. For new oil stains, cover the area with cheap kitty litter or Diatomaceous earth. Leave for three hours or more and sweep. For older stains, cover the area with degreaser and scrub with a stiff brush, making sure that all stains are covered. Another option is to pour hot water onto the concrete and scrub with dish soap. Leave for 10 mins. do not allow dish soap to sit on concrete for an extended period. Scrub with a stiff brush and rinse.
Muriatic acid is a strong option. Apply the acid following the manufacturer’s directions, and let it soak for several seconds. Keep in mind that muriatic acid is a very dangerous product; if you use it, wear rubber or latex gloves, safety goggles and protective clothing, and never wash it down storm drains. Test all solutions on an inconspicuous area first.
Question: How should I clean a felted tea cozy? How can I remove tea stains on a wooden trivet? Bonnie
Answer: The safest way to clean felted fabric is to gently blot it with a damp wash cloth and dish soap. Avoid rubbing and apply light pressure. If the stains remain, place the cozy in a sink with hot water and fabric detergent. Use your hands to agitate the fabric. Air dry. If you are not comfortable wetting the fabric, consider drycleaning the cozy. To clean the tea stains on a wooden trivet, make a paste of baking soda and water. Rub the stains until the tea marks have disappeared. Rinse with water. Murphy’s Oil Soap is an alternate option.
Question: Should I dust or vacuum first? My vacuum is five years old which isn’t that old, but I don’t think it is sucking up the dirt. Kimberly
Answer: The consensus is dust first and vacuum second. This makes sense because as the dust flies up and settles, the vacuum will suck it up. Help your vacuum efficiently clean by changing the filter regularly, replacing the bag if it is more than half full and investigating to ensure that there are no obstructions in the hose.
Tips for the New Year
Sometimes when I am working at the kitchen sink, water splashes onto the window above the sink. I have found that using a coffee filter to wipe the window, cleans the window without any effort. Sharon
After purchasing fish at the store, transfer the meat to a sealable bag. Place the bag onto a bowl of ice. As the ice melts, the water stays confined in the bowl. The fish stays fresh longer and keeps from spoiling. Bernice
I had a hard time sleeping because my feet felt so dry. I would wakeup several times a night to reapply cream onto my skin. I have discovered that rubbing petroleum jelly onto my feet is the answer. My feet are soft, and I finally feel comfortable when I sleep. Michelle
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip?
reenanerbas@outlook.com
Renovation & Design
Keeping plumbing vent clear of ice requires a plan
Question: I have been having problems with the top of my stack getting covered in snow this winter. It is six inches tall and I was going to extend it this spring. I was going to add a 12-inch piece to the existing pipe. My concern is that the pipe will freeze with ice if it is too tall. Is there a cut-off height to solve my problem? —Thanks Doug A.
Answer: Roof plumbing vent terminations being covered with ice and snow are always a potential problem in our area due to our extreme winter weather conditions. Extending the height may prevent it from becoming capped with snow, but at the expense of potential freeze-up, which would be more detrimental. Insulating it better in the attic, and/or periodic manual snow clearings are a better approach.
I have received dozens of e-mails like yours over the years and answered many in previous columns, and I would like to wish everyone a Happy New Year for 2023 and thank all readers for their continued support and outstanding submissions. A straightforward solution like your pipe extension warrants a new approach. Gluing on an extension to the short ABS vent pipe above your roof may indeed be enough to prevent the top from being covered with blown snow. That will certainly depend on the location of it on your roof. If the vent termination is near a valley, is on the leeward side of the prevailing winds, or your home is surrounded by taller houses on both sides like mine, it may still not be sufficient. If the vent is well situated, with no factors to increase the snow drifting over top, then adding another six inches or so should solve your problem. The unfortunate part about that solution is that its success may also cause a further issue which can be more problematic.
Most stacks that are too low to the roof, or poorly located as discussed above, may have the tops covered with a few centimetres of snow after heavy storms. That could potentially cause the vents to malfunction, but that is in rare cases. Even with a small amount of snow on top, the heat from the escaping sewer gasses inside the pipe should quickly melt it enough to prevent a full blockage. Even if there is a small hole in the snow capping the pipe, enough air should enter the vent for proper drainage, while also allowing escape of noxious sewer gasses from the plumbing system. If it is completely sealed, there is a risk of the melting snow freezing up on very cold days, but that is often a short-term issue.
The simple solution to your issue, as long as you don’t have the pipe completely blocked above the roofline on multiple occasions, is twofold. First, adding insulation around the stack inside the attic may help. This should prevent that portion of the vent pipe from dropping below freezing, even in the coldest weather. The extra insulation should be continuous around the entire pipe, which may help keep the escaping gasses and water vapour from freezing up and blocking the vent below the roof. If the temperature of those sewer gases is raised a few degrees in that location, it may be enough to completely melt any snow that covers the pipe top.
Secondly, and perhaps the most simplistic approach, is to climb up on your roof immediately after a heavy snowfall and clear the area with a plastic shovel. That is only an option if your vent termination is on an easily accessible portion of the roof, with a moderate pitch and low height. If you have a two-storey, or higher, home that may be out of the question. Fortunately, higher homes like those have more of a tendency to have clearer roofs than bungalows, as much of the snow blows off. Also, if you have a very steep roof, regardless of the height, it may too dangerous to attempt snow removal from above. A long snow rake designed for roofs may be another viable option in that situation.
The real risk with adding more piping above the roof is exactly what you are concerned about. The higher the vent is above the warmer attic, the colder it will be at the very top. The attic not only allows insulation of the ABS piping, it prevents cold winter winds from hitting the exterior surface. Those two factors together, more heat loss the higher it extends above the attic and colder surface temperatures, can be a double-whammy in creating a bigger problem. Any snow that does blow over the higher pipe may more easily plug it. Also, the melting snow from the warm gas emissions is more likely to freeze, especially at night when the sun is down and ambient temperatures drop. Ice buildup inside the pipe is the truly risky situation, as it may not easily melt, causing a substantial or complete blockage of the vent.
There are also several types of devices available to prevent ice blockage or help warm the vent, but their reliability is questionable. The only one that may be successful is wrapping the pipe with an electric heating cable designed for that specific purpose, but that can be costly to run, a waste of electricity, and difficult to monitor.
Your efforts to prevent your plumbing stack termination above the roof from being snow-covered may be better served by improving its insulation inside the attic and more frequent snow removal, rather than extending the length. The risk of your suggested method is trading one issue for another, with the newer one being much more problematic.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and a Registered Home Inspector (RHI)(cahpi.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
