Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: A real pickle involving juice, teak tabletop
QUESTION: Sunday night, a jar of pickles spilled onto the dining room table, which is solid teak (very old reclaimed wood, if that makes a difference). The pickle juice sat there for a few hours before being discovered. I tried putting baking soda directly on the damp stain and covered it with a towel for 24 hours. Little result, and I did notice some stain in the baking soda but there is still a very dark, almost black stain on the table. Not sure if this matters, but we have treated the wood with teak oil once a year for about eight years. Is there something else we can try? Kind of desperate here. Thanks. Rick, Winnipeg
ANSWER: It sounds as though the acid in the pickle juice stripped the finish of the table. Place a tea towel onto the area and press the mark with a warm iron. Observe if the stain is gone. Next, smear mayonnaise over the spot, leave for one hour and wipe. If the stain remains, sand and refinish the table.
QUESTION: Help! My daughter has a big, juicy wad of gum in her hair. She leaned against a dresser that had gum on it. My daughter has very long, wavy hair. Is there anything I can do, other than breaking out the scissors? Bernice (Pierson, Man.)
ANSWER: Step away from those scissors! Reach for smooth, creamy peanut butter. Smother the gum with a good amount of peanut butter and gently pull the gum towards the ends. After the gum is gone, soak the area with dish soap and water and wash well before shampooing.
QUESTION: Do you have a solution for getting makeup/lipstick out of clothing? Ha-ha my friend got bright, pink lipstick on my white dress and I was wondering if you have any ideas as to how to remove that? Jodie (Teulon, Man.)
ANSWER: Your best bet is to dab the area with rubbing alcohol and water. When the stain is gone, smear the spot with Dawn dish soap and water. Rinse until clean and then wash the clothing as usual. White non-gel toothpaste is another great way to get lipstick out of fabrics. Rinse with water.
QUESTION: I have a couple of problems that require your expertise. I own a pair of boots with Velcro closures. After a year or so, the Velcro lost its hold. I cleaned out the lint that was caught in the hook surface, but it did not help. Is there anyway the Velcro can be 'revived'? The boots are still in very good condition.
Problem two: when I take off a certain jacket, my hair gets all static. This doesn't happen with other jackets. What do you suggest I do to eliminate the static without resorting to chemical sprays? Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the interesting and helpful hints that appear in your column week after week. A., Winnipeg
ANSWER: Here are a few options: Heat the Velcro with a hairdryer and comb it with a pet brush to rejuvenate and clean it. Or stitch a new piece of Velcro on top of the current Velcro, some people recommend gluing a new piece of Velcro onto the boot but in my experience, this does not hold. Worst-case scenario, bring the boots to a shoe repair store.
Did you know? Unused Velcro makes a great tongue scraper for preventing bad breath.
So your hair does not fly away on you when you remove your jacket, consider keeping a fabric softener sheet in your pocket. Whenever you remove your jacket, wipe your hair with the sheet. Having a humidifier in your home also reduces static electricity and when washing your hair, use a thick conditioner. Last but not least, a little hand cream smoothed over your hair works well in a pinch.
Outstanding household hints:
-- After using chopsticks the next time you visit a Chinese restaurant, bring them back home instead of leaving them to be thrown out. They come in handy as stakes for plants.
-- Stop clothes with thin straps from falling off hangers by sticking small felt furniture pads onto the hanger just beyond where the straps sit.
-- To keep spiders or any other nasty surprises out of the shoes you store outside, i.e. gardening shoes or work boots, place old stockings over the top of them. Make sure the stockings don't have holes in them, and if they don't fit snugly over the top, use an elastic band to secure them.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Should worries be flushed down the drain?
QUESTION: I am wondering if it's a good idea to have both a main back-flow valve, under the basement floor, and a backup valve in the basement drain. Please excuse me if this is a little long-winded, but I will try to explain my worry.
I had a back-flow valve installed in my basement last spring. My home already had a small sump pit and pump for overflow water. I had the pump upgraded to a Little Giant at the recommendation of the plumbing company that installed the valve. My house is about 50 years old. I used to have a large tree, which was taken down last year, in my front yard and my neighbour has a gigantic tree in his front yard, so I have had occasional problems with sewer backup due to tree roots ever since I moved into this house eleven years ago. That along with the worry about flooding last year and the rebate program are what prompted me to have the valve installed.
I try to have the tree roots cleaned out every year. Last year, after the valve was installed, I had this done but the company that cleared them did not go out far enough. This year, less than a year since last year's clear-out, I had backup because of tree roots. The main valve worked and closed, and the water from the laundry backed up into my sump pit and was pumped outside. This time I called Mr. Rooter and they came and cleared the tree roots right out to the main sewer. They also inspected my plumbing and noticed that at one time there had been a backup valve in my basement floor drain. All that was left was the ring from it. They recommended that I have a new one installed, telling me that if the main back-flow valve closed and waste from my house backed up in the sump pit it could also backup into the pipes leading to my weeping tiles.
This seemed like a good idea so I had it done. Now I am second-guessing myself. Was this a good idea? My worry is that if the main back-flow valve closes because my sewer line is plugged with tree roots in winter, which happened early February this year, while the ground is still frozen how will I know? In spring or summer if the in-floor valve closes this should stop ground water from the weeping tiles from flowing into the sewer and it would overflow into the sump pit and be pumped out. I would know that the main back-flow valve was closed and that there was a problem. But in winter if both valves closed what would happen?
Am I being over-anxious? Should I pour water down the basement drain occasionally to make sure it is open? Glenda Burk, East Kildonan
Answer: The answer to your concern will depend on a couple of factors. The exact location of both the in-floor backwater valve and the floor drain backup valve relative to the sump and weeping tile discharge will determine if there is a problem, or not.
The location of the newly installed backwater valve will be the main determining factor in whether you have a legitimate concern. If the plumber installed this downstream of your floor drain and all vertical drain pipes, it may not matter if you have any other items in the drains further upstream. Since you appear to have proper overflow protection to a sump pit and pump there should be little to worry about. If the main back water valve closes due to a backup, any rainwater that backs up behind this valve will flow into the pit if it exceeds the capacity of the catch basin. If the overflow pipe between your catch basin and the sump is located low enough to prevent your weeping tiles from completely filling before it drains the catch basin, things will work fine.
The only real concern in any backup situation in a home like yours with proper in-line protection for the drains, is the waste water that flows into the sump. Typical sump pumps are designed to pump only clean water. If your backwater valve is closed and the drains fill up with wastewater you may have trouble if you flush your toilets. Solid waste may then back up into the catch basin and some of this will wind up in the sump. You really don't want this material to be pumped out onto your lawn, but the real issue is the potential damage to your sump pump. Your pump could become damaged or plugged if solids like toilet paper or other materials enter the sump pit. This would also be compounded if you have a garburator in your kitchen sink and regularly add ground up material to the liquid waste. If there is too much foreign material taken in by the pump and it breaks down, you will have a major problem. The floor drain valve should help prevent this from occurring, if things are properly located. That is the likely reason that "Mr. Rooter" suggested replacing it, which is a good idea even though it is not essential.
Regular clearing of tree roots from the sewer outside your home will help prevent a back-up from occurring, but regular inspection of the floor drain and catch basin may alert you to a potential blockage. You have already stated that you noticed a problem when doing a load of wash and your laundry backed up. It may help to look at your catch basin when you are doing laundry to see if any soap bubbles up into the catch basin through the top of the drain before the backup valve fully closes. This will tell you that the drain is getting sluggish or the backwater valve is closed. In my last house I had a similar tree root problem and I knew it was time to call a rooter technician when I saw soap bubbles in that area. As far as the small back-up valve in your catch basin, it will either be beneficial or at worst benign, so you can alleviate your worries and leave it where it is.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Building green different than talking green
I've been hearing a lot of green talk bandied about lately. It's the thing to do nowadays. I know we're talking green, maybe even thinking green, but are we really doing green?
I won't comment on other industries -- I'll leave that to their own pros -- but I will talk about the industry I've been working in for the last 30 years. And the trend is definitely swinging toward "green" products and options. This is good.
The problem is when people and companies jump on the bandwagon just to make a quick buck. It's what some call "greenwashing."
When I first started commenting on the home-inspections industry, I would call characterize it as a lot of cowboys but not a lot of sheriffs. Well, the same could be said about the green movement.
Because it's new, there are a lot of regulations and certifications being developed. The problem is knowing which ones are the legitimate ones. What are the regulations today that will define the green standard of tomorrow?
It's still a moving target. So I'm more inclined to talk about something I know does the job for both the homeowner and the environment -- and that's energy efficiency and durability.
Building an energy-efficient home isn't a trend. It's becoming a standard, and I like this, because it's asking more of builders, as well as homeowners.
It's a way of thinking that says it's better to invest in more insulation than a granite countertop. It's cool to have solar panels, energy-efficient appliances and a green roof. These features are becoming the new eye candy of the modern and contemporary home.
Do I like green? Yes. But I don't like greenwashing. And for me, the smarter and greener option will always be something that proves its "green-ability" on a consistent basis. And that's energy efficiency and sustainability.
Let's look at the facts: The cost of energy is rising, and there's no sign of it levelling off at any point. We have energy-performance labels that tell potential buyers exactly how energy-efficient elements of the house are.
What does this mean for homeowners? That an energy-efficient, durable home will appeal to anyone living on a fixed income and/or thinking of selling his home in the future.
We're going to see more builders offering energy-efficient packages and upgrades. We're going to see more homeowners choosing renovations that will bring their homes to higher performance levels and make them more durable. And we're going to see an increase in demand for experienced and skilled renovators who know how to do this -- the right way.
As builders and renovators, we need to mix the old construction theories that worked with new technologies, and get rid of the middle era that didn't work. Look at passive houses. These homes represent some of the best kinds of energy-efficiency options, because they use the environment to their advantage.
Unfortunately, not everyone can afford to buy the latest and greatest in energy-efficient homes and upgrades. These options may deliver significant savings, but the initial investment isn't cheap.
For example, if you wanted to add a solar-power system to your home, a two-inch plastic pipe going from the attic to the basement will need to be installed. Roof trusses need to be able to safely sustain the extra weight. You'll also need an anchorage system properly sealed through the roof. Then you've got the cost of installing the system itself. This is an expensive investment most homeowners can't afford.
The good news is there are a few options that don't require a lot of restructuring to make a home more energy-efficient. It's just a matter of incorporating smart, simple, eco-friendly solutions that deliver real positive changes in the future, such as:
1. Increase and/or replace old insulation in the attic with one that has a higher R-value (at least 60). Make sure there's good ventilation in the attic and seal off any potential areas of heat or energy loss, such as windows and door frames.
2. Always go for Energy Star-rated appliances whenever possible.
3. Install a programmable thermostat that regulates the temperature of your home between day and night, whether you're home or not.
4. Replace older toilets with ones that are low-flow to save, on average, 30 to 50 per cent of the water normally used.
5. Install a domestic hot-water recovery system that recaptures heat gathered from hot water used during dishes, showers, etc., and uses it to preheat the water going into the hot water tank.
Homes need to be more energy-efficient and environmentally sustainable if we want to build for the future. In fact, I think we have a responsibility to build homes you can buy when you're young and grow old in. We used to build that way. We can build that way again.
-- Postmedia News
Catch Mike in his new series, Holmes Inspection, airing Thursdays at 8 p.m. ET/PT on HGTV. For more information, visit www.hgtv.ca. For more information on home renovations,
visit makeitright.ca
Renovation & Design
Stop down jacket from leaking feathers
QUESTION: I very much enjoy and appreciate your solutions in the paper. Here is one challenge that I have and haven't noticed mentioned before. I have a lovely down-filled jacket that is warm and comfortable. But it is a few years old now and the feathers sort of leak out and leave my sweaters looking like I have a bad case of dandruff! Any ideas? Is there anything I can spray it with (short of shellac) that could prevent this from happening? Looking forward to your "solution." Karen, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Both expensive as well as inexpensive down-filled jackets have a tendency to lose feathers. Here are a few suggestions to solve this issue.
If the problem is excessive and the jacket is new, find your receipt and return the jacket. If the jacket is older and cannot be returned, pull escaping feathers towards the inside of the jacket when they decide to stick out. If you pull feathers out, the holes become larger and more feathers will escape. Put your jacket into the dryer and run the no-heat fluff cycle for about 15 minutes.
The reason that this works is because as the jacket is worn the feathers compress and flatten making them easier to fit through the weave. But if you fluff your feathers they will fatten up and have a more difficult time fitting through the fabric.
If all else fails, wear a thin nylon jacket underneath your down-filled jacket to prevent the feathers from clinging to your clothing. Scotchgard products have proven unsuccessful when it comes to keeping feathers inside jackets.
QUESTION: Hopefully you have a solution for my problem. Recently, I was cooking a potato in the microwave. In error, the wrong time was selected (way too long for one potato) and the potato, including the paper towel that it was sitting on, ignited. Fortunately, I had just returned into the kitchen when I noticed the flames inside the microwave.
The inside of the microwave is discoloured from the smoke. Most of the blackness came off when I scrubbed the walls. The top inside wall, however, still has a mottled appearance. Is there anything that I can use to "bleach" or whiten this area? The microwave still functions normally. It's a fairly recent purchase that was quite costly (one of the over-the-range types). Thank you. David, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Although people often share their success stories about removing microwave discolouration by wiping the interior with acetone and then washing with dish soap and water, this is not recommended because acetone is a dangerous flammable solvent.
Instead, clean the microwave by scrubbing it with vinegar, lemon juice and baking soda. Scrub to remove the stain and when the unit is clean, leave the remainder of the cleaning solution in a bowl inside the microwave (when not in use) to absorb remaining odours.
QUESTION: I burnt beef stew in my enamelled cast iron pot and after cleaning the burnt food off, the pot is now discoloured with a brown color on the inside of the pot. The normal colour of the inside of the pot is cream. What can I do to get the brown colour off? Thanks. Katheryn, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Adding the element of heat is a powerful tool that lifts stains, odours and kitchen messes. In other words, pour enough vinegar into the pot to cover the bottom, add one tablespoon baking soda. Bring to a boil for five minutes. Turn element off, cover and leave overnight. Wash in the morning. Or sprinkle the bottom of the pot with a layer of dishwasher detergent powder. Fill the pot one-quarter full with water. Boil for five minutes and remove from element. Leave overnight and wash as normal.
Some people have also reported great results with leaving cola in the pot overnight. In the morning, scrub with an abrasive pad.
QUESTION: I would like you to give me a substitute for carton whip cream. B.. Minnedosa
ANSWER: The substitute depends on what you are using the whip cream for i.e. roux vs. whipping. Experiment with the following suggestions: Chill your beaters and bowl. Whip chilled evaporated milk and serve right away, two tablespoons lemon juice can be added to 12 ounces evaporated milk before beating to give it extra flavour.
Another option is pressurized whipped cream which is handy to have on hand but more expensive and less yummy. Other substitutes are frozen yoghurt, well drained vanilla yoghurt or if you are looking for a hot chocolate topping you can use marshmallows. And finally non- dairy whipped cream can act as a substitute for real whip cream.
Renovation & Design
Tools for tasty treats
Can't quite afford to renovate your kitchen? If the heart of your home is in need of a wee facelift, funky gadgets and colourful appliances will do the trick with an instant, easy update until you're ready to take on the big job.
Cuts like a knife
Kiss herb-chopping goodbye with these Westmark Krauterschere herb scissors. They have five stainless-steel blades for quick and gentle cutting. Find them for $19.95 at Linen Chest stores.
Then try out these two Kuhn Rikon Swiss products available online at kuhnrikon.com. Hull and cut strawberries with this foldable fruit knife with a super-sharp steel blade ($12.99), and for young ones, Kinderkitchen duck snippers will get the job done with safety ($17.99).
Fizz it up
Go green and turn tap water into sparkling H2O in under 30 seconds with the Soda Stream drink maker, which eliminates lugging heavy bottles from the grocery store. The newest model, called Fizz, includes a carbonating machine, a 60-litre CO2 cylinder, one-litre carbonating bottle and a "fizz chip" to allow you to monitor the level of carbonation added to the bottle and the remaining amount of gas left in the cylinder.
The Fizz starter kit retails for $150 to $180 online at yachtinggourmetstore.com or soda-maker.com
For good measure
Measure and weigh up to four cups at the same time in the efficient two-in-one Ricardo measuring-cup digital scale. It's $29.99 at Linen Chest stores.
Chop chop
Save counter space with the snazzy organized Index Chopping Boards by Joseph Joseph. Each board is conveniently marked for specific foods so you can separate flavours while cooking. Find the boards for $60 at josephjoseph.com.
Little helpers
When young chefs enter the kitchen to help, it's always handy to have child-friendly items on hand. At Grace in the Kitchen, you'll find an array of items, including these two child-tested ones from the Kuhn Rikon line from Switzerland.
The Kinderkitchen cookie cutters are an ideal size to work with and boast good grips ($8.99). Held together by a spatula used to level off dry goods, the rainbow measuring-cup set fits into most jars and containers and the cups sit level for filling with liquids without having to hold them. Rest assured, individual spoons won't disappear on the measuring set. It's held together by a silicone line (both sets together are $12.99).
Grilled to perfection
This pizza stone by Emile Henry has a reputation for producing crispy crusts. Able to withstand exceptionally high heat, it can be used in the oven, on the grill and over an open flame and doubles as a cheese plate or trivet. Made of Burgundian clay, it's dishwasher safe and measures 37 centimetres in diameter (think large takeout pizza). Find it for $49.95 at Grace in the Kitchen.
Have a java
For coffee lovers, try a cup made in Bodum's Original French Press, which makes about four cups. Choose from colours including bright red. It sells for $19.95 (buy a smaller, one-cup version for $14.95) at Linen Chest stores.
New from IKEA
Here are a few items, most of which we haven't seen before in the store:
The interchangeable domes on the SPRITTA citrus squeezer ($3.99) allow you to squeeze any type of citrus fruit, and the fruit garnishing set ($3.99) makes it easy to core apples and rewmove the zest of citrus fruits in strips for salads or beverages.
Crush, grind and mix solid substances with the RORA marble mortar and pestle ($14.99). The SLUKA vacuum flask, with a long, rounded handle, holds up to 1.8 litres of hot or cold drinks ($24.99).
And have that roast ready on time with the STEM Timer in assorted colours ($2).
-- Postmedia News