Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Tankless water heater turns showers cold
QUESTION: When building our new cabin, which is off the grid, we tried to be as environmental as possible. We have a propane tank which runs our fridge, stove and a Bosch tankless water heater. The water comes from a submersible pump which is powered through our solar panels through an inverter. The water is pumped to a pressurized bladder that sits beneath the cabin. The idea is that when we turn on the water, the flow lights the propane, which then should produce never-out hot water. We were told by the propane people that we weren't getting enough propane, so they increased the lumen of the line to the hot water tank. That had no effect. We occasionally get hot water, but it is inconsistent, and of course always cuts out in mid-shower.
Do you have any experience with these, or suggestions? Apparently they use them all over Europe without problem. -- Ira Ripstein
ANSWER: It is quite interesting and exciting to hear from a cabin owner that has strived to use their summer home without the need to connect to the local electrical utility. While I have limited experience with tankless water heaters, I have received many inquiries about the technology from my clients during home inspections. To properly answer your question, I have done some research, primarily on websites from various manufacturers of these units, and will offer several possibilities for your dilemma and some possible solutions.
I commend you for your progressive attitude and attempt to minimize the environmental impact of your summer home by using several energy-saving technologies while still maintaining many of the amenities of a modern residence. For those readers that have not heard of these systems, a tankless water heater is a small unit that is normally mounted on a wall. It heats cold water on demand rather than holding preheated water in a large tank. Because there is no large reservoir filled with hot water, which cools and requires periodic reheating when not in use, it can significantly reduce the amount of energy required to heat water for domestic use. There are electric units and those that use natural gas or propane for an energy source.
After reviewing installation and maintenance information from a few manufacturers of tankless water heaters, I have narrowed down a few possibilities for your lack of hot water. Malfunction of these units can be attributed to one of three main causes; mechanical failure, gas input issues, or water supply defects. Checking for the first possibility will normally require inspection and servicing by a plumber or HVAC technician familiar with these components. Based on your inquiry, I assume that has already been done, so we will concentrate on the other possibilities.
As stated in an online manual from Bosch relating to gas-fired tankless water heaters, "Correct gas pressure is critical for the optimum operation of this heater. Gas piping must be sized to provide the required pressure at the maximum output of the heater while all the other gas appliances are in operation. Gas pressures lower than 10.5" W.C. for LP Gas will result in insufficient degree rise to the hot water being used and must be corrected." I would double check with the propane people to ensure the repairs they have done meet this standard. Alternatively, there is a straightforward pressure-testing procedure outlined in the installation manual that could be done by a licensed HVAC contractor to ensure your propane supply is adequate.
If these first two possibilities are ruled out, the final item to check is the water supply. Anyone who has owned a property with a private well and pump, including me, knows there can be periodic issues with consistent water pressure and volume. This may be due to the well itself, but is more often due to damage, wear or improper setup of water-supply equipment. Pumps, pressure tanks and water-supply pipes can wear out, freeze or leak under normal conditions. Because of this, regular inspection and maintenance is critical to proper operation of your water heater. As per online instructions, "The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater. For installation on a private well system with use of a pressure tank, the lowest pressure range setting recommended is 30-50 psi."
Regular maintenance recommended by Bosch includes yearly inspection of the water-filter screen, pilot assembly and burner. They recommend lubricating and cleaning the water valve every other year. They recommend rebuilding the water valve and replacement of the orifice on the pilot assembly every three to five years. If your unit is more than two years old and this has not been done, this could be the cause of the limited hot water supply.
Mineral buildup inside the unit from your untreated water is another likely cause of the problem. This issue may also be linked to another common culprit if the temperature setting on the tankless unit is too high. The higher the temperature setting on the unit, the lower the amount of hot water it is able to produce. According to the specifications published, almost twice as much water is available at the minimum temperature setting of 45F, relative to the maximum of 90F. Surprisingly, mineral buildup is not normally a problem at lower temperature settings but can be significant when the heat is turned up. Rather complicated instructions are included in the maintenance information on how to descale your heater with simple household vinegar. This may be the first item to try in improving performance of your device.
Finally, keeping the water temperature near the maximum may cause another problem that is listed as a probable cause for your symptoms. If the water heater burner extinguishes in the middle of your shower, which could be monitored by a second person near the water heater, this may be the reason for the lack of hot water. The water from this appliance "is very hot out of the tap, requiring a lot of cold water to be added with it in order to attain a usable hot water temperature. The addition of too much cold will overpower and slow the flow within the tankless heater, decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the burners. The end result is nothing but cold water coming out the outlet. In short, clean out the unit by the descaling method provided, then turn down the temperature-control dial to see if that solves the problem. The manual and maintenance information cited can be found at www.globaltowne.com.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: A scrub, coffee grounds freshen cupboard
QUESTION: I hope that you can help. A loaf of bread was left in our bread cupboard and became very mouldy. I have not been able to get rid of the smell and cannot use the cupboard now because of this. Do you have any ideas that could help get rid of it? Thankyou in advance. Barb, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Begin by washing the cupboards out with Murphy's Oil Soap. Next, make your very own "Coffee in a Sock" air freshener. Take a clean sock and place it inside a cup. Fold the sock opening to the outside of the cup/glass to create an opening. Pour fresh coffee grounds into the sock. Close the sock with a rubber band. Store the sock inside the cupboard. Coffee is a wonderful odour absorber!
QUESTION: I am having a problem removing rust stains from a white T-shirt. They appeared after washing, so I am assuming the stains came from the washer tub. Can anything be done? I appreciate your help. Donna, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Before tackling your fabrics, find out what is causing rust on your clothing. Check the machine or your water pipes or your bleach dispenser to see if any rust is gathering. Are there any leaks in the washing machine? Read your troubleshooting guide in your manufacturer's manual. If you determine where the rust is coming from and solve the problem, your laundry will be a lot more fun to handle. If you want to clean your machine and remove rust buildup, consider using a product called Iron Out, available at hardware stores. Use it according to directions and ventilate. This removes rust in washing machines, as well as dishwashers.
For fabrics: Your best bet is to pour either lemon juice or three per cent hydrogen peroxide onto the area. Sprinkle the stain with cream of tartar. Leave the white shirt in the sun for a day and wash. Sun is a wonderful mild bleaching agent and so is hydrogen peroxide. However, be sure to test on an inconspicuous area first. Repeat until the stain is gone. If the stain remains, you can use Rit dye remover to zap rust stains. Be sure to ventilate.
QUESTION: We have a 7x10 living room wool rug that is approximately five years old. Last summer, we had the rug dry cleaned, but last fall we noticed a few tiny moths on the rug. We have never had moths in our house. When we questioned the dry cleaner, we were advised they never had any sort of problem with moths. We vacuumed the rug thoroughly and a patch approximately two to three inches in circumference developed in the rug. We put the rug in the garage during winter to kill any moths, etc. We thought we had them licked. However, a few tiny moths reappeared, along with larva. As far as the rug goes, we feel it's toast for the living room. However, is there anything we can do to salvage it and use it elsewhere in the house? Can we somehow treat the rug to get rid of these little critters? Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Maureen, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Begin by sprinkling the rug with borax or boric acid or crushed bay leaves. Do this only if you don't have pets or small children, as it is poisonous. Leave for a day and vacuum (often) with an industrial-strength vacuum, being sure to change the vacuum bag. If moths continue to be a problem, call in a professional fumigator.
Feedback from Caring Manitoban:
Hi Reena,
In terms of what can be done with used plastic grocery bags, thought I would let you know that you can recycle plastic grocery bags at Safeway stores. There is a much too small mossy green bin in the entrance area of the store where they store the carts. It is usually quite full, so often a struggle to jam the bags in. Linda
Fabulous tips of the week
-- Spread peat moss over newly planted grass seed as opposed to covering the seed with straw. Peat moss absorbs and holds water similar to straw, but has the benefit of disappearing quickly into the soil after the grass begins growing. It also helps aerate the soil and gives the grass a better environment to begin its growth cycle.
-- Coconut fibre is now being harvested as a good substitute for peat moss. It carries many of the same qualities as peat moss but is apparently more environmentally friendly. Coconut fibre is sourced from the husk fibres of coconuts and is a good use for what is often looked at as a waste product.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., R0A 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Bring back wife's smile
Dear Marc:
I am writing to you for help in a delicate matter. My wife has cancer and she is finding the treatment very hard. She has always been tough and has a lot of pride, so she is doing her best to put on a happy face for the kids. I really want to do something special for her to see that pretty smile of hers again.
She has always wanted me to repaint our home, but I have always refused. The entire house has white walls with white casings. I used to tell her it was the best colour to have, as it never goes out of fashion, but she wanted bright colours that she could come home to. I am completely useless when it comes to choosing colours. Can you guide me through this? -- Chris
Dear Chris,
I am sorry to hear about the condition of your wife. I say we give your wife the space she has always wanted and brighten up her world!
As we want this to be somewhat of a surprise, we'll have to be innovative. Check her closet and try to find a common clothing colour. Are there at least five to 10 dresses in the same colour? If so, then that's most likely one of her favourite colours.
Now look at your wife's jewelry box. What type of jewelry does she usually wear? Does she wear glamorous costume jewelry or does she prefer simple, elegant pieces? A woman's jewelry says a lot about her style and taste. A woman who likes lots of bling will love an over-the-top space, but a woman who likes simple jewelry will love a simple and elegant space.
Now you're ready to tackle the colour scheme. The key here is not to overpower the space. What I mean by this is, if your wife loves navy blue and you saw a few yellow dresses in her closet, you can do a mixture of both colours. Who says every wall has to be the same colour? You can take the most concentrated colour, such as the navy blue, and use it on an accent wall. In layman's terms, by accent wall, I mean the wall where you would like the eye to be drawn when entering the room. The remaining walls can be a less intense colour, such as a light shade of yellow. This way, you get the wonderful colour scheme without finding it overbearing.
Once you have painted the walls, move the furniture and accessories back into the room. Analyze if all the colours go together. If you're having trouble with this, think back to when your wife was wearing that incredible blue dress. Did she wear the grey or brown shoes with it? If you can't remember, invite her friends over to check the new colour scheme. If your sofa is no longer the right colour, not to worry, as you can buy sofa covers in every colour imaginable.
As for art pieces in the space, have the kids draw a picture using crayons that work in the colour scheme of the space to show how much they love mom and hope she gets better soon. Once the pictures are done, have them framed with the use of a wide mat and hang them on the wall.
Once you have finished the space down to every detail, it's now time for the surprise. Have the kids present and explain to mom each of their pictures. She will love the new space and that pretty smile will be seen once again!
-- Postmedia News
Renovation & Design
Attic hatch in garage ceiling an issue
QUESTION: A previous column of yours has me thinking about my own garage. It is not attached, the walls are 10 feet high and I have finished insulating them with R12 fibreglass. The ceiling joists are covered with three-quarter-inch sheeting to provide a floor in the attic storage area. I have no intention of insulating in between the 2x6s forming the top cords of the homemade trusses below the roof sheathing. The roof has two vent caps. Access from below is through a five-foot-square opening that I plan to fit an insulated, two-part door-like affair into. I have started to insulate the ceiling with R24 and I will cover that with vapour barrier and panelling. The walls are covered with vapour barrier and panelling already.
Sometimes I heat the garage with my small construction heater. With what I've done already, that takes the chill off enough to work in there in all but the coldest weather. I rarely park in the garage, but that may change. When all is done, I may use it more often in the winter.
Is this arrangement acceptable without constant minimal heating? I could install a fan controlled by a dehumidistat if you foresee a problem. -- Peter Knip
ANSWER: Heating an uninsulated garage can cause significant moisture problems and premature deterioration to the roofing. Heating a properly insulated garage with adequate attic ventilation should not be a problem, but there still may be some concerns to address. I will elaborate on those and offer some guidance on proper insulation and ventilation techniques for your garage attic.
Adding insulation and air/vapour barrier to the ceiling of your garage will create the conditions for a proper attic, rather than just an open-truss situation below the roof. If this garage area is unheated, the attic insulation will help keep the garage a little warmer due to natural daytime heating on sunny days. This may only be a minimal advantage but should pose no additional problems for condensation as long as the attic has adequate roof and soffit vents installed.
If you add temporary heat, there is always a chance of moisture issues from condensation after you turn the heat off, but that should be easily managed. Opening the vehicle door and the passage door for a short period of time after you turn the heat off will remove much of the warm, moist air built up during the heating cycle. It will also cool the interior of the garage more quickly, allowing you to notice and wipe up any excess condensation forming on windows or other areas.
The attic should be mostly unaffected by periodic heating as long as it is well sealed, which leads me to the biggest concern with your plan. Insulating and sealing an attic access hatch the size you are planning may be difficult. (I am assuming you are using the large opening for easy access of larger items that may be stored in the attic.)
There are a couple of issues with that proposal. Firstly, the homemade trusses installed may not have sufficient strength to store large, heavy items that can fit through the large access hatch. If overloaded, this can cause bowing and structural damage to the garage roof and ceiling. If you are only storing light items like Christmas ornaments, storm windows and other seasonal items, that should not be a problem.
The main concern I have is with the difficulty in properly air-sealing such a large opening. You must ensure that the entire perimeter of the opening and any gaps in between the dual doors are well sealed with proper weatherstripping, or you may get excessive air leakage in through those gaps. The top of the access hatch should be covered with an adequate thickness of moisture-resistant insulation like rigid polystyrene, which may create very thick, heavy doors. If you are painting or doing other moisture-producing activities in the garage in the heating season, that moisture will find its way through any gaps or poor insulation.
Also, if you open the large access hatch during these activities to get storage in or out of the attic, you will be pumping a large amount of warm, moist air instantly into the attic. This warm air will quickly condense on the underside of the roof sheathing and create frost when the hatch is closed if the temperature is below freezing outside. Having a small, well-sealed hatch is preferable because it limits the potential for air leakage, especially if you do a good job of installing your air/vapour barrier on the rest of the ceiling.
The final consideration for your attic is to avoid a common DIY mistake, and often one made by professional insulators as well. When you install insulation in between the ceiling joists, you must ensure it does not block the area above the soffits. Too often, this area is stuffed with insulation, as amateurs mistakenly try to eliminate air intrusion into the attic at all points. You definitely want to let as much air as possible in through the soffits, which will be necessary to create a good convective air flow to push any warm air that leaks into the attic out the roof vents. The attic insulation must cover the top of the exterior wall plates but should never extend beyond that point.
The easiest way to ensure that this area is not blocked with insulation is to install air chutes and/or insulation stops around the perimeter of the attic. These can be homemade out of leftover plywood or OSB sheathing, or purchased at a local home centre. These should be installed in between the rafters around the entire perimeter of the attic, ensuring that a minimum space equal to half the width of the rafter 2x4s is left above these components.
If all this is done well, and the hatch well-sealed, the current roof vents should be adequate to handle normal moisture that may gain entry to your attic from your periodic heating before it condenses and creates moisture problems.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358, or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Vinegar a powerful antibacterial agent
QUESTION: This is a letter regarding one of your previous household solutions which was to add half a cup of white vinegar to wash loads. Would the vinegar not kill the soap? I tried it, and the wash turned out fine, but I wonder what happens to the soap. I remember advice from years ago to add vinegar to the rinse in hair following shampoo as a way of getting rid of any soap residue. Love your column. Ethel, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Vinegar, vinegar, vinegar how shall I count the ways? Vinegar not only kills bacteria, it also helps rinse detergent and soap residues out of fabrics. Vinegar has a very long history of use as an antibacterial agent; in fact vinegar is powerful and the reason why pickling is the process of using vinegar to preserve food by preventing bacterial growth.
"Men are like wine, some turn to vinegar, but the best improve with age." -- Pope John XXIII (Hey was that a put down to vinegar?)
QUESTION: With the ground being so saturated this year moisture has shown up on my cement basement floor. There is a dry fuzzy residue in some areas. In a few other areas there is something like a black mould. I have scrubbed with a wire brush and vinegar water. It seems to have gotten rid of the black mould but I'm still vacuuming up the fuzzy's every couple of days. Can I seal the floor to keep moisture out with a latex paint sealer? I am getting so frustrated and expecting lots of company for Christmas holidays, we have one bedroom downstairs with two beds, and I have removed everything from the bedroom except a table and one bed on rollers. I have picked up many excellent hints from your books. Louise, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The water has caused the cement to form what is known as efflorescence. You may want to have an expert take a look at the area. Or tackle the challenge on your own. Begin by washing the floor with T.S.P. Rinse Well. Wash the concrete with muriatic acid five parts water to one part acid (follow safety instructions because this stuff is dangerous). Rinse and allow floor to dry. Apply two coats of a solvent-based concrete water sealer. The sealer should take care of the problem; consult an expert at your favourite home improvement store for a great water sealer product.
QUESTION: I enjoy your column in the Winnipeg Free Press and would like to know if you can help me. I have several stuffed animals from childhood which I am fond of. There are two with white "fur" and they have become dingy over time. There is also a handmade embroidered unicorn made out of heavy white cotton cloth. I vacuum and brush the darker coloured animals but would like to know how I can clean and freshen up the "fur" so it is white again. Perhaps you can advise me about how this can be done. Yours truly, Sharon, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Vacuuming teddy bears is the least risky way to clean them. However, wiping with a damp white cloth is one of the simplest and most effective ways to clean your teddy bears. For stubborn dirt, grime and odours you will have to resort to a stronger cleaning technique. Check the care label on your bear. To dry your teddy bear, never use the machine dryer. A better way to dry the teddy bear is with a hair dryer.
If your teddy bear is an antique, avoid washing or cleaning the bear yourself. There are special establishments who specialize in restoring teddy bears. Another option is to place your teddy bears in a garbage bag with a half cup of baking soda. Shake to freshen. This will remove dust and stale odours but it will not remove stains. To remove stains, use the wet cloth technique stated above.
Feedback from Caring Manitoban:
Dear Reena,
Further to the writer who was wanting solutions regarding her cat who has started to make messes around the house: You're so right that she totally needs to take the cat to the vet. At 15, there could be a medical or physical reason for the problem. It may be something that can be easily addressed for example a urinary tract infection. Or it could be something more serious -- still potentially treatable but better that she know in case her cat is sick and uncomfortable. That can't be ignored. I know all too well how scary it is to have to take an animal in and fear bad news. But it's better to know so you don't live with the regret of having been able to do something earlier.
But if it's not about that, it could just be that this cat has decided it's time for a 'litter box change'. Cats are very finicky about their litter box. It's "theirs" and it becomes very personal. It may be that just a different type of litter box [or litter] is needed -- lower or higher or bigger, something like that. It may be that the cat needs to be given a choice and a second litter box should be made available in a different location. Or it may be that the placement of the current box is 'inconvenient' and just needs to be moved as mobility becomes an increasing issue with all of us who age. Just my two cents. Nadine, Winnipeg
Tea Time Trivia:
-- To make great tea: Start with fresh cold water and bring it to a full boil. When making black tea, steep immediately for 3-5 minutes. If you are making green or white tea, let the water cool down for a few minutes before pouring it over the tea leaves and steep two to three minutes.
-- Did you know? All tea has antioxidants; but the heat of processing destroys the antioxidants, so the more processed the tea is, the less the concentration of antioxidants. The greatest amount of antioxidants is found in white tea, followed by green, oolong and black.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., R0A 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Bulb is beautiful
Of all gardening activities, planting bulbs is my favourite. It is satisfying on so many levels.
For one thing, bulbs are pretty much surefire things. As long as you don’t push them into soggy or waterlogged ground, they are going to do what they are supposed to do perfectly.
The range of flower colour is also phenomenal. Think it through and you can have knockout colour in your garden from the first light of spring to the start of summer.
Pick the right kinds of bulbs to plant (I’m thinking of ones that naturalize and form endless colonies) and you are rewarded with a repeat performance year after year.
There is also something of the magic of a caterpillar-to-butterfly metamorphosis that happens with bulbs that makes the planting process so engaging: You push this odd-shaped object in the ground, cover it with soil, and it sends up an amazingly beautiful flower.
In The Everlasting Man, G.K. Chesterton argues that just because something is predictable and happens every day, such as the sun coming up, doesn’t make it any less amazing. I feel the same way about bulbs flowering in spring.
Anyway, let’s look at some interesting planting strategies you can put to work this fall to give a terrific splash of colour next spring.
Paint with bulbs
Ever since I met Jacqueline van der Kloet, one of the Keukenhof’s top designers, I tend to think of bulb-planting as the botanical equivalent of paint-by-numbers. Bulbs are so dependable, you can use them to put colour on the ground precisely.
Van der Kloet showed that not only could she create great blocks of colour by planting masses of red and yellow tulips or rivers of blue muscari, she could also make subtle, painterly schemes.
She makes clever use of hyacinths, dotting them in regular patterns and surrounding them with great naturalizers like Fritillaria meleagris, scilla and ornithogalum.
You’d be surprised, for instance, how good a checkerboard pattern various shades of blue chionodoxa can make.
You could mix various shades of hyacinths to create something similar. Try yellow “City of Harlem” with peach-coloured “Apricot Pattern” and burgundy “Woodstock.”
Hot and trendy
The tulip everyone is talking about is “Orange Angelique.”
It’s a tulip, but it looks like a peony because the flower contains so many petals, all a soft apricot colour.
The problem is, “Orange Angelique” is no longer easy to find. Suppliers underestimated demand and packets of the bulbs have been flying off the shelves at garden centres since mid-September. Good luck if you manage to get some.
A better pick, in my opinion, is the classiest tulip of them all, “Spring Green,” one of the viridiflora group, all of which have a distinctive green stripe. Pick up a few packets of Lemon-Lime Twist (mix of “Spring Green” and “Yellow Spring Green”) and you have a breathtaking display.
Blue on blue
You perhaps don’t realize how many shades of blue muscari there are. When you put them together, the subtle shifts in tones and texture can be very attractive. There’s Muscari paradoxum and Muscari neglectum, Muscari latifolium and Muscari armeniacum, not forgetting great cultivars such as “Blue Spike,” “Valerie Finnis,” “Big Smile” and “Mount Hood.” The nice thing about muscari bulbs is that you get a lot for not a lot of money.
You could do something similar using shades of blue crocus; you just have to remember to keep an eye on flowering times — snow crocuses bloom earlier than the large-flowered ones. So “Whitewell Purple,” “Firefly’ and “Blue Pearl” go together and “Remembrance,” “Striped Beauty” and “Purple” go together. Mix them all together for six weeks of colour.
Black and white
Snowdrops fit perfectly under the low, umbrella-like canopy of laceleaf maples where they bloom magnificently in spring and are shaded by the trees’ leaves in summer. But snowdrops look even more striking when they pop up among the dark leaves of black mondo grass. If you are lucky enough to have a Himalayan birch (Betula jacquemontii), then plant some black grass under it and push dozens of snowdrops into the grass. The black-and-white contrast is wonderful.
The allure of alliums
You must find room in your garden for the Star of Persia (Allium christophii). In fact, plant half a dozen for more impact. But the most talked about allium at the moment is “Forlock,” which has purple ball-shaped flower heads that look as if they have been given a buzz-cut.
But I reckon there will be much more demand for white-flowering alliums, especially “Mount Everest” and the more dainty A. neapolitanum. There is also a delightful combination package available this year called “Double Bubble,” which is a mixture of white and purple alliums. Very stylish.
— Postmedia News