Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Baking soda will wipe those rings from marble counter
QUESTION: My son built a new house that has a large marble counter in the kitchen. It has acquired marks on it, water rings etc., which cannot be removed just by wiping with a dishcloth. Can you tell me what they can use to remove these marks? Thank you.
-- Bernice (Carman, Man.)
ANSWER: Your first step is easy; make a paste of baking soda and water. Cover the area and leave for 10 minutes. Rinse and dry. Observe if the rings are gone before applying stronger products.
QUESTION: My favourite capris were washed and I wanted to give them a slight ironing but the iron was too hot and I now have an iron scald or mark on the pants. They are made of rayon, nylon and spandex. Can you suggest anything to take the iron mark out? Thank you, V.M. (Virden, Man.)
ANSWER: While some people have had success by gently rubbing the area with fine sandpaper, most report nothing can reverse the appearance of burnt fibres. I agree with the latter. To burn fabrics is to actually permanently destroy the fabric.
QUESTION: What is the best way to store regular bananas that will be used for bag lunches?
--Jesse (Winkler, Man.)
ANSWER: Store bananas at room temperature. Do not store them in the fridge (unless fruit flies are an issue) when they are green, because green bananas tend to turn black faster when stored in the fridge. If you need to speed up the ripening process, place bananas in a paper bag with an apple. While you should not keep green bananas in the fridge, it is actually a good idea to store ripe bananas there; they will turn black but the pulp will not be affected. Bananas can be frozen for up to two months.
QUESTION: We live in a remote community and the power goes out every few weeks. We have small children at home and wonder if it is possible to freeze milk. Thank you,
-- Iris, Winnipeg
ANSWER: In my experience, you can freeze milk. Once frozen it will turn yellow but returns back to white after defrosting. The flavour remains the same but the texture is no longer as smooth. For this reason, I tend to freeze milk only if I have an excess and then I use it for cooking and baking purposes.
Great feedback from readers
I am an electrician and made the mistake of using permanent marker to mark a switch gear. I needed to remove the marker so I tried mosquito spray and with no scrubbing the marker came off. I have been using it ever since. It doesn't seem to make any difference as to which brand.
-- Richard
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my brand new videos/blog/website: reena.ca!
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Clean dishtowel best for storing, wrapping veggies
QUESTION: Are paper towels a sanitary product for wrapping food such as veggies, or cooking in the microwave? Lucille, Winnipeg
ANSWER: How you store and cook food such as fruit and vegetables will have a major impact on their taste and texture. Certain veggies such as asparagus, beets, horseradish, parsnips, artichokes, herbs and lettuce can be stored in either dry or damp paper towels (depending on the vegetable) without unsanitary consequences. However, in my view a clean dishtowel does the same trick and is less expensive and more environmentally friendly. When using paper towels in the microwave, choose solid white paper towels, avoid paper towels with imprinted color designs.
QUESTION: I have a keen interest in cake decorating but find I have a hard time icing and decorating cakes without incorporating all kinds of crumbs into the icing. Any suggestions for a more professional look? Bruno, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Refrigerate the cake for at least a day before attempting cake decorating and icing. Although the outside of the cake may feel cool, the middle of the cake will stay warm for hours. After the cake cools, turn it upside down on a cake board (you will have less crumbs this way). To avoid crumbs all together put a thin layer of icing on the cake. Once you have covered the cake with a thin layer of frosting, you can cover that layer with a normal layer of icing. Make sure the icing is smooth and even. Dip your metal icing spatula in cold water and go over the icing, this will smooth the icing beautifully.
Icing consistency is key in cake decorating. The icing should be quite stiff, if it is too stiff to work with you can always thin it out.
To start with, choose the tip you will be using. Hold the pastry bag with the hole down and place the tip inside, as far as possible. You should use about a cup of icing in the bag at a time, and start it out in a bowl, that way you can thin the icing with a little milk if you need to, before you put it in the icing bag. The icing should be thin enough to go through the tip, but thick enough to make the designs you choose. If you are still a novice at cake decorating, practice making the decorations on waxed paper before you attempt to put them on the cake.
QUESTION: I noticed in one of your columns a question about how to keep a bathtub clean. We keep a spray bottle beside the bathtub (containing water with a squirt of dish soap). After each bathtub use, we spray the sides of the tub, scrub with a bathroom sponge and rinse. This has kept our tub sparkling and ring free for years.
Now for my question: I have a large copper tray (hammered finish). The tray was left in the sink with water overnight and now the finish is milky looking. Do you have a solution for this? Would the ketchup trick work? I don't mind if the protective finish all comes off, so that I have to clean the copper regularly. Thank you for your help.
JoAnne (Winkler)
ANSWER: Thank you for the dish soap comment JoAnne!
While the ketchup method works you will require a lot of it and the job can get messy. Instead fill a large bucket or basin with white vinegar. Sprinkle a liberal amount of salt into the vinegar. Soak the tray for 10 minutes and polish. Repeat if necessary. Dry and coat with mineral or baby oil to minimize future tarnish. WD-40 also works well for cleaning copper.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my brand new videos/blog/website: reena.ca!
Fabulous Tip from Reader
I always soak my baking sheets and broiler trays and other pots and pans in dishwasher detergent. I usually use the powder, but recently I've been using the liquid to clean my oven exterior (it's easier to apply). My method is to wash all the dishes first, and then soak the pans in the sink with hot water and detergent, usually overnight. The next morning swish... the pans look brand new. No scrubbing. Thanks for the tip on cleaning windows; I'm going to try it. (I've never used rubbing alcohol in water before). Barbara
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Tree care can help avoid damage to homes
QUESTION: About five feet from the side of our River Heights house there are two young maples trees about four years old. Will the roots from these trees become a problem for the house eventually?
Thanks, Lawrence Marmel
ANSWER: There are definite benefits and drawbacks to having trees near a home. There may also be concerns as far as the root system creating problems for foundations and underground drain pipes, which may be dependent on the type of trees present.
The first thing to determine, before deciding what to do about the trees near your home, is the exact type of trees you have. There are many different types of maple trees, which are classified in the genus Acer (Aceraceae). Some of the species in this group have been known to be problematic in our area due to either their root systems, or their adaptation to our climate. Many types of maples are common to Eastern Canada, but only one species is considered native to the Prairies. While some of these may grow relatively problem free, with minimal disease or winter damage, others may not survive for long. I have seen numerous large trees near homes I believe to be silver maples, and they appear to be quite healthy and successful despite not being native to Manitoba.
The member of the Acer genus native to our area is appropriately known as the Manitoba maple, or box elder. This tree is quite commonly seen along riverbanks and in many yards due to its relatively quick growth and suitability to our climatic conditions. It is distinguishable by its unique leaf shape, which differs from the typical maple leaf we associate with our national flag. The leaves are described in the Manitoba government-published Field Guide to Native Trees of Manitoba as; "Opposite, compound, composed of three-to-five, coarse-toothed or lobed, paired, leaflets five-to-12 centimetres long." The key being the coarse-toothed edges that I always find similar in appearance to the leaf of poison ivy plants.
If the trees have grown up on their own and were not planted by you or a neighbour, it is likely they are Manitoba maples. These will often grow on their own from seeds falling from a nearby tree. Because they are indigenous, they are more likely to survive and have been described in some literature as fast growing when young. The real issue with these trees begins to emerge when they become much larger. Branches on the Manitoba maples can grow out in various directions and can create a significant crown when mature. These branches can often overhang roofs and could easily come in contact with your home as they grow. Either of these situations could cause deterioration, which is why regular maintenance will be required if you decide to keep them. Regular, proper tree care, including pruning, will be essential to prevent damage to the trees and your home.
Having had these beautiful mature trees in the yards of two of my homes, I know they can be problematic if neglected. I still remember the evening when my former neighbour and I had to lift a large branch off the hydro wires running to our homes after a thunderstorm. This large maple, which bordered both of our properties near the back lane, predated both of our ownerships and grew unruly due to neglect. We were lucky the branch did not break the wires before we were able to carefully dislodge it, or it would have been a major life safety hazard. In my last home, an even larger Manitoba maple was prominent in the front yard, which I pruned regularly to prevent it from touching my roof or the elms on the front boulevard. That tree showed me both the positive and negative aspects of having such a large Manitoba maple near a home.
The major benefit of the large tree in my front yard was the terrific shading effect it gave to the home and roof. Being on the west side of my house, it prevented the strongest rays of the sun from heating up my windows and home, minimizing air conditioning costs. It also made the front yard comfortable, even on the hottest summer days. The overhanging branches also prevented deterioration to the shingles from ultraviolet radiation, prolonging the life of the roofing and cooling the attic. Combined with the shading effects of the boulevard elm, that home and yard was well protected from excessive sunlight.
The negative aspect of the healthy tree was not readily visible to the naked eye. Because of the nature of the root growth in some of the members of this family of trees, including my lovely Acer negundo, underground damage is possible. In some cases, these roots can grow into small cracks or holes in foundations and weeping tiles, causing serious structural issues. In my case, the underground sewer line was the recipient of damage from tree roots. The damage and blockage mainly occurred on the city-owned boulevard, either from the maple or the elm, which helped considerably with replacement costs. Just to be on the safe side, I had the entire drain replaced at my additional expense, from the foundation to the street, when the damaged section was excavated and repaired under the City of Winnipeg program. I did this to prevent the need for future costly repairs should the maple roots further damage the old drain pipes closer to my house.
So, to answer your question, without further personal anecdotes, having these trees that close to your home will likely cause some of the issues identified, but not in the short term. I would recommend regular maintenance and trimming and removal only if the trees become too large to handle, sometime in the distant future.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
More than one way to warm a floor
Question: I was browsing the Internet looking for good information and recommendation on a particular topic and I ran across an article you had done for the Free Press back in 2003. "Moisture under cottages a common woe" which had referenced from an article from 2001.
I have a cabin in the old campground in Riding Mountain National Park. We tore down an old one and built a new cabin in 1982. It is 16 by 24 feet and we recently added a eight-foot square bedroom addition on the back. We are now getting water and sewer service to the cabin area and leases which run from early April to late October. So, we are in renovation mode again, with putting in a bathroom. What I have noticed, since we are now using the cabin more in the shoulder season, is that the floor is cold on the feet. We have laminate rather than carpet, due to pine needles and dirt tracking in, and want to keep cleaning easy. We wish to stay with laminates and vinyl flooring.
The cabin is on cinder blocks, just high enough that I can shimmy under most of it. The floor joists are uninsulated, and no vapour barrier on the ground or under the subfloor. We currently heat the cabin with small electric space heaters, but I will be adding electric in-wall heaters once we get the plumbing upgraded.
So my question is; how best do I warm up the floor? I can get the air temperature toasty warm inside, but the floors and the air layer at the floor remain cold, as the cavity underneath is cold. I have considered laying in heating mats and redoing all the underlay, vinyl and laminates, which seems expensive and labour intensive. I have also considered putting in cork floors, as it feels a bit warmer on the feet, but does not solve the cold-floor issue.
I was wondered about insulating the joist cavities and covering the bottom of the joists with plywood so the rodents don't get at it. Although a lot of people are doing that with new cabins, I wonder how effective it is. The cavity under the joists is still cold. Plus I would likely have to raise the cabin a bit to effectively work underneath in order to insulate the floor like that.
My old construction days tell me if you want a warm floor, you have to put heat under it. So I was thinking of this and wanted your opinion. If I could find a small down draft electric furnace, could I use it to heat the cottage? I have enough space to run ductwork to each of the two bedrooms, the living room, kitchen and bath, plus direct a couple of heat vents into the crawl space area. In the shoulder heating season I would close in the skirting around the perimeter, and in the non- heating season, open it up for ventilation.
I am concerned about putting down a heavy vapour barrier on the ground, as it is just one more thing for the rodents to get into, and I doubt I could effectively cover it with rock. Plus, it will trap any moisture that does get under the cabin. As the ground appears naturally dry and if I am heating it in the shoulder season and opening it is the summer season I wonder if the vapour barrier is even needed. I would appreciate any thoughts, recommendation or other ideas you might have.
Jeff Sim
Answer: You have noticed one article where I annually address this common question, because it is one of the most misunderstood and frequently inquired about topics related to building issues.
You appear to have an above-average grasp on the concerns and proper techniques with this issue. Your suspicion that simply insulating between the floor joists will not be enough to provide a warmer floor is correct. While this method is commonly used, it is not effective without a heat source. In many cases, this will prevent excessive heat loss, lowering heating bills, but will often make the floor colder. This can happen because this reduced heat transfer from the living space to the joists prevents slight warming of the floor relative to the cold air outside this area. In an attempt to warm the cold floor surface, sometimes the opposite is the result. Installing an electric heating grid would warm the floor, but would require extensive insulation in the cavities, often combined with costly reflective insulating sheathing to prevent excessive hydro bills.
Unless you are planning that type of major floor renovation, your other idea will be much more effective for warming up the flooring. The only thing I would suggest to improve upon your idea is to install a permanent grade beam below the perimeter of the structure, rather than an insulated skirting, as you suggest. That way, you will be able to insulate it more effectively and won't have to remove and replace it every year. Another benefit of this method will be to improve the support structure for the cottage, preventing the possibility of uneven shifting between individual concrete block supports. This grade beam could be constructed out of concrete, block, or pressure treated lumber and sheathing. Any of these materials would allow permanent insulation inside the grade beam with rigid expanded polystyrene or blown-in high density polyurethane insulation. Using either of these materials will allow easier air sealing and minimal use of polyethylene sheathing for your air/vapour barrier.
Installing large screened vents, with removable winter covers, in several areas around the perimeter of the new grade beam should be adequate for summer ventilation of the crawlspace and also double as access hatches. These, combined with six-ml polyethylene sheathing over the entire crawlspace floor, sealed to the perimeter insulation should be installed to prevent moisture into the living space. Adding heat to the crawlspace and living space with an electric, forced-air furnace, will ensure you have a warm, comfortable cabin floor for the future.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.