Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Homegrown garlic beats store-bought
Q: My goal this year is to be-come a self-sustained gardener, able to grow most of the vegetables I use, including things like garlic. A few years ago I started growing garlic and couldn't believe the difference in taste from the store-bought. I am looking for a good reference on how to grow garlic and was hoping you might be able to help me.
A: I understand what you're saying about the taste of homegrown garlic compared with store-bought, some of which comes directly from China. By the time it gets here it has already started to sprout and dry -- the flavour long since lost.
Your question arrived about the same time I received a copy of Liz Pri-meau's new book, In Pursuit of Garlic -- An Intimate Look at the Divinely Odorous Bulb (Greystone Books).
Over the past few years, garlic has become an 'A' list item for foodies and gardeners alike. Liz does a wonderful job introducing us to garlic and its role in history, art, medicine and science. She then gets into the many garlic varieties, from Russian Red to Kettle River Giant. Her chapter on how to plant, grow, feed and harvest it is a must-read for anyone wishing to grow garlic.
I highly recommend the book to anyone interested in growing or even using garlic for their own cooking.
I also highly recommend growing your own garlic. After your first taste, you'll wonder how you ever cooked without it.
Q: I received an azalea as a gift just before Christmas and it bloomed beautifully, but now is losing its leaves. What I might be doing wrong?
A: With indoor or florist azaleas, the loss of leaves is usually a sign of lack of water. They should be kept evenly moist, but not wet. When you stick your finger into the soil and the top feels dry, it's time to water.
Put the pot in the sink and let the water run on the soil until it comes out the bottom.
-- Postmedia News
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Settlement, workmanship can create cracks
QUESTION: Ari, I hope you can help me with a problem. A number of hairline cracks are appearing in the ceiling of our 1,500-sq.-ft. bungalow. The cracks are found in the foyer, living room, kitchen and nook, which is open-concept in design. They follow the Sheetrock's length-wise edges. It started with one a few years ago. More are appearing over time.
The home was built in 2004, so it is constructed using relatively new technology. The roof trusses are built on 24-inch centres and OSB was used to sheet the roof. I see no signs of movement in the basement or elsewhere in the house. A string along the bottom of the support beam does not show serious deflection. Humidity is controlled at 40 per cent or so during the winter.
Is there something I should be doing? What would be the best repair so the problem does not reoccur?
Thanks, D'Arcy Keast
ANSWER: The cause of ceiling and wall cracks in homes, especially newer ones like yours, can be attributed to either settlement or workmanship issues. Since you feel there is little sign of movement in the home, the obvious conclusion is original construction defects. I will suggest possible repairs and offer a plausible explanation for the phenomenon.
The term settlement is often used in regard to buildings to describe sinking or movement. This occurs in many buildings due to changes in soil conditions over time. Some areas have minimal problems with settlement, due to sandy or other favourable soil conditions and others such as ours can have major issues.
Because we are living in a historic flood plain known as the Red River Valley, our soils are highly subject to movement. This is due to thousands of years of flooding of our rivers, which have deposited multiple layers of silt and expansive clay soils in our region. These clay soils will expand and contract with changes in moisture levels and temperature. This will often cause many homes, built on traditional spread footings, to move or sink, especially after initial construction.
To solve this issue, many newer home foundations are built on deep-poured concrete piers, which prevent movement due to soil expansion and contraction. The fact you have seen little movement in your home leads me to conclude your home is built in this manner or you are otherwise fortunate.
Many, many homeowners have observed cracking, similar to yours, in their walls and ceilings over the past year due to back-to-back dry summers. The soil may have contained less moisture than in several years and subsequently shrunk considerably. This even occurred in older homes, which had been more or less stable for decades. While you may not have been able to observe this in your telepost measurements, if your home is built on a footing, some settlement may have contributed to the cracks. While this is probable, I still think your problems began with initial construction.
When homes are currently constructed, the underside of the roof trusses are covered with thick polyethylene sheathing, which provides an air/vapour barrier for the top of the building envelope. This prevents excessive warm-air intrusion into the attic, which can cause major moisture issues if not installed.
The difficulty with this sheathing is it must be overlapped and caulked at seams, protrusions and the junction with the exterior wall air/vapour barrier. With today's complicated floor and roof plans, this may lead to bunching of this plastic sheathing in several areas.
Because of this, it can be difficult for contractors installing the drywall on ceilings to properly secure the individual panels to the trusses while maintaining flat surfaces. This can cause small gaps between the drywall and the trusses and poorly secured fasteners. This is particularly true in large open-concept areas, like your home, where drywall sheets may be 12-to-14 feet in length.
Compounding the problem of proper fastening of ceiling drywall are the large amounts of insulation that are now being installed in the attics above. While this insulation is very light and fluffy when installed, adding minimal weight to the ceilings, over time it may become heavier.
Some types of insulation can absorb moisture from other building materials or frost buildup in the attic, particularly in the springtime. This can cause poorly secured areas of drywall to move slightly, and can also recede in the warm summer months as the attic dries out. This can cause drywall screws to "pop" or push out drywall compound that covers their heads. It can also cause drywall tape and seams to open, which is likely what you are observing.
As I said earlier, the likely cause of your ceiling cracks is original workmanship. This may be from poor securing of the drywall sheathing, as discussed, or sloppy application of drywall tape and compound at the seams.
A poor-quality taping job may not be noticeable at the time of possession, but may become more visible as the house ages and building materials dry out, shrink or move. If you have a flat ceiling not covered by stipple or other coatings, hairline cracks may be all the more visible.
The solution is to hire a reputable drywall contractor to properly secure the ceiling followed by taping and painting the damaged areas.
While this explanation may seem oversimplified, it's quite a common occurrence, which will likely not reoccur once properly repaired.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Use citric acid to see if glasses are etched
QUESTION: I have a problem with my four-year-old dishwasher. The acrylic glasses have a white coating on them, especially on the bottom and the top edges of the glasses. The cutlery has a blue color stain, like a stainless steel pot when on a hot element. Do you have any ideas on how to solve this problem? R & G, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The white coating on the glasses may be a permanent condition called etching. Go to the grocery store and ask for citric acid (in the pharmacy). Put the glasses in the dishwasher and add citric acid to the soap dispenser. Run the cycle as usual and if the etching stays it is likely permanent. You can also soak the glasses in vinegar and rub with fine steel wool. Don't get too excited if at first the glasses look brand new because the etching may return when the glasses dry.
In terms of the blue color on your stainless steel: Line a baking dish with aluminum foil and add hot water (enough to cover the cutlery) and half cup of washing soda (baking soda is an alternative but not as effective). Let the cutlery soak for five minutes and note if there is a difference. You will be excited when the blue disappears!
Tip: To avoid the problem of stainless steel pots forming a green/blue hue to the bottom of the pot, avoid adding salt to water until water has come to a full boil.
QUESTION: Always read your articles, I also have one of your books. I have a question regarding cleaning leather. I have a leather chair (soft leather) in a lighter color that needs cleaning. What should I use? I know that the softer leathers need special attention and I have a piece of leather that I can use as a test piece. Now what to use? Thanks, Gladys (Steinbach, MB)
ANSWER: I like the fact that you have sample leather to test solutions on! If you can get a hold of a product called Urad (check it out on the web) this is a fantastic cleaner. Alternatively, mix one-quarter cup vinegar, half-cup water and a few drops of tea tree oil. Wipe leather with a damp cloth. You can also rub cold creams on leather to soften. Another option is to wipe the leather with a small amount of olive oil which tends to seep into the leather without attracting dust or dirt.
QUESTION: Do you know how to get the smell of hydraulic oil out of clothes? We have washed them four times, used Febreeze, you name it, still it smells. Brian (Landmark, MB)
ANSWER: Leave the clothing outside for a few hours. Soak the clothes in either: half cup washing soda, white vinegar, borax or baking soda and enough water to cover the fabrics. Wash fabrics separately so that one color does not run into another. For best results boil the fabric in a large stainless steel pot for 5 mins. Wash as usual. Simple Green is a commercial product that has also had great success with this challenge (taken from Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions).
QUESTION: Will a combination of vinegar and baking soda or vinegar and ammonia make a good household cleaning agent? Look forward to your reply. Marie, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The combinations that you mentioned are amazing and powerful cleaners. I prefer vinegar to ammonia due to the strong fumes.
Just be sure never to combine bleach with any product. Sometimes people may look at a bottle of bleach and wonder, 'Why shouldn't this be mixed with ammonia?' The answer? Huge danger! Chlorine gas was used as a chemical weapon during World War I and later by Nazi Germany in World War II. Bleach and ammonia create chloramine gas, a deadly combination!
Fantastic Readers Respond
Dear Reena,
I doubt many people know this solution to fixing a washer or dryer that no longer goes through its cycles properly. The method has saved me many hundreds of dollars over the years. When a washer or dryer refuses to go through its cycles, it is probably because of moisture in the main electronic panel. I simply lift the servicing lid to gain access to the panel and insert a trouble light close to the panel. The heat from the trouble light in say about 8 hours will dry out the panel and the machine will work properly again. Works every time. Cheers, Dick
Fabulous Tips of the Week
*Prevent S.O.S pads from rusting! Line a small dish with aluminum foil. Place the used pads in the lined dish and they won't rust.
*When my sister went to Australia for 6 weeks, they visited a tea plantation. The owner of the plantation explained how to remove caffeine from tea. Add hot water to loose leaves and steep for 1 minute. Discard the liquid. This first brew contains most of the caffeine of the tea. Add water to the teapot and let steep for 2-3 minutes and drink that infusion that has only small amounts of caffeine (over 80% of the caffeine is removed during the first wash of the leaves).
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my brand new videos/blog/website: reena.ca!
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Vinegar effective against mold and bacteria
QUESTION: Could you enlarge please on the antiseptic properties of vinegar? I am using it exclusively now and feel very good doing so, but I would like some info on just how effective it is.
What I do suggest also is that you look into its benefits as a toothbrush disinfectant, particularly at this time of year when colds seem prevalent. Without giving it much thought, we put a toothbrush in our mouths several times a day. We'd think twice about doing that with a spoon or straw and NOT washing it well afterward.
I've started putting my toothbrush (and tongue scraper) into a quarter-cup of water with maybe a capful of vinegar in it every few days for a good soak and think this must be worthwhile, but I would like this verified. And then, tell people please! Thanks, Karen (Russell, MB)
ANSWER: I agree that disinfecting your toothbrush is important. After researching the effectiveness of household vinegar, I've come across several studies that say vinegar is effective in reducing microbial contamination.
In fact, one experiment was carried out and reported on CBS News. A Good Housekeeping microbiologist wanted to find out whether or not vinegar kills mold and germs.
"We put the mold into the grout of tiles," said the microbiologist, Gina Marino, adding that this mold and bacteria had to grow for a few days. The results? "Well, with mold, it's sort of effective," she said. "It reduced it by 90 per cent, actually."
But what was really exciting is how well vinegar worked against bacteria. It was 99.9-per-cent effective. Vinegar worked far better than anyone expected, and better than many of the products on the market today.
Consider soaking your toothbrush in 1 tbsp. baking soda to 1 cup of hot water for 30 minutes following a cold. If using vinegar, use the same amount. Vinegar is one of those household superstars that has an endless amount of uses, so I always make sure that I'm fully stocked up on the stuff.
QUESTION: Would you know how to remove polyurethane from countertops? When I was finishing the cupboards, some dripped onto the counter and now it will not come off. I am afraid to use sandpaper as this might scratch the countertop. Please help! Bill, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Although I don't know what your countertops are made of, I can tell you that when it comes to polyurethane you will need to use acetone, denatured alcohol or mineral spirits to dissolve the spill. These are the products that wood-finishing experts use to clean excess polyurethane when installing woodwork.
Be sure to test any product that you use on an inconspicuous area first, perhaps under the lip of the counter.
QUESTION: My fiance stored her bike on top of a pink-cushion wing chair. Of course, grease from the bike chain got onto the chair. How would one get this grease stain out of the chair? It's on the arm and I believe there is one on the cushion. If you can help me with this it would be appreciated. Rene, Winnipeg
ANSWER: There are a few products that have had great results on bike-chain grease. Begin by scrubbing the area with Sunlight laundry bar soap, rinse with water. Other products that have had great results are Resolve Carpet Spot Remover, waterless hand cleaner, brake cleaner and Murphy's Oil, or WD-40. Apply clear dish soap onto area to avoid product stains. Test on inconspicuous area first. (Taken from Household Solutions 1)
If products were already applied to the area, the stain may be set and difficult to remove.
Fantastic Readers Respond
Re: Your article in today's Free Press about hummingbird food. In one place, you wrote that honey is bad for these birds and then you suggest to "substitute honey for plain old white sugar". Don't you mean substitute plain white sugar for honey?
I'm also curious about your comment about red food coloring. If it has not been tested satisfactorily for safety, why can it be called "food" coloring? Chuck
Reena's Note: Yes, I meant plain white sugar instead of honey! While red food coloring is approved for human consumption, no tests were done to determine safety for hummingbird bodies. Good catch, Chuck!
Hi Reena,
I've discovered the easiest way to remove mascara from a face cloth is to hold it close to the shower head or the laundry sink faucet set in the spray-action mode. If the shower head has adjustable settings, the strongest setting gets the mascara off very quickly. Jo-Ann
Dear Reena,
Further to the lady about pillows and allergies, I suggest she try a water pillow. They are a bit more expensive but are worth it since they don't lose their shape and conform well to the head and neck. I've had mine for a few years now and I love it. Grace
Dear Reena,
I am very grateful for your response to my problem regarding tree resin on pants and thank you with all my heart.
One good turn deserves another, so I will share my latest "brainstorm". It falls into the category of cleaning.
I have problems reaching and cleaning the outside of my windows, so I bought one of those telescopic mops which have a swivel flat head and microfibre cloth. I took two buckets of water, one with a warm vinegar solution and another with plain water for rinsing. Then I used that swivel flat-head extendable mop, which really is meant for your floors. It worked like a charm, so easy, so fast. In the summer you could use a hose instead of the second bucket. Anne
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my brand new videos/blog/website: reena.ca!