Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Gardening: raise it up!
FOR all the romantic notions about gardening, it can be a strenuous effort. Digging, planting and weeding can burn plenty of calories depending on how vigorously you work. Gardeners whose movements are restricted either due to a recent injury, advancing years or disability, may conclude that it's time to hang up their trowel.
Raised beds, though, can be built at a height and width that allows plants to be easily and comfortably tended either from a seated or standing position to make gardening more accessible.
Darlene McPherson, an avid St. James gardener who was diagnosed with rheumatoid arthritis several years ago, has never forgotten the advice of her occupational therapist, May Chan: "Don't stop doing the things you love to do -- just change the way you do them".
Raised beds in McPherson's butterfly garden help to minimize the stress on her joints and muscles.
"Raised beds cut down on the distance that you have to bend. If you are in a wheelchair, you can still garden", she says.
Raised beds are also utilized in areas with minimal space and can be found in almost every community garden in Manitoba. A strong design element in the home landscape, raised beds provide different levels in a garden and can be constructed from many types of materials that range from very affordable to custom designed.
Railroad ties are useful for low beds, but another affordable option is to create a bed using natural stone that is laid dry (without mortar). Also called drystone walls, each stone should slope inward slightly for stability.
Do-it-yourselfers may want to make a trip to the U-Pick rubble pile at Gillis Quarries in Garson for a selection of limestone (production offcuts with at least one side sawn). A load can range in price from $20 to $65, depending on the size of your vehicle.
Today's contributor is Laura Rawluk, a West Broadway area gardener who decided last year to change her approach to gardening. After consulting with Urban Eatin Gardener Workers Co-op, her traditional perennial borders and square vegetable garden neatly planted in rows were handily replaced with spacious triangle shaped raised beds.
"Give it a try -- start small, and ask an expert if you don't know where to start", recommends Rawluk.
Colleen.Zacharias@gardensmanitoba.com
Renovation & Design
There is more than one way to insulate between joists
QUESTION: I know the use of extruded foam insulation on interior basement walls must be covered, but what about the header areas? If you seal them with extruded foam, too, must those areas be covered? Doug
ANSWER: You have identified an area of considerable debate and controversy in new-home construction. The cavities between the floor joists over top of the foundation has been a difficult area to deal with in the building envelope since modern insulation and air/vapour has been used in basements. The technical answer to your question may differ from what is normally seen or done in many homes.
The area above insulated basement walls against foundation walls has always been a difficult area to deal with in relation to air sealing. This is due to the limited flexibility of typical 6MIL polyethylene sheathing used as an air/vapour barrier in this area. While it is easy to install and seal this thin sheathing on the wall studs, it is very difficult to cut and fit between the floor joists above this wall. Even with lots of acoustical sealant or plastic tape, it is near impossible to install without several gaps.
This is very important because any gaps in this membrane can allow warm, moist air from the home into this cavity. With conventional fibreglass batt insulation, warm air leaking into this cavity will likely cool, condense and can lead to frost and mould growth.
Because of possible convective air currents within the insulated wall cavity, condensation is most prevalent at the top of the insulated system, which is the troublesome area you have inquired about. This is compounded by the fact that this area is above grade and will be colder in the winter than much of the rest of the wall assembly, which is partially insulated by the soil and snow outside. These two factors often lead to frost forming behind the insulation if the wall is poorly sealed.
The good news is that modern insulation methods can be used that virtually eliminate this issue. Rigid extruded polystyrene has been used for several decades in this location to help minimize both the air-sealing issue and the chance of condensation. While this can be very labour-intensive to install, having to cut each piece exactly to fit between individual floor joists, it can easily be sealed at the bottom and perimeter with caulking or small cans of blown-in foam. With sufficient thickness and sealing, this material works very well to provide a combination of waterproof insulation and good air/vapour barrier.
An even easier, newer solution is to have high-density polyurethane foam blown into each cavity, which has similar properties but fills all gaps even better. The only drawback in using either of these materials is they are combustible and may produce toxic fumes during a fire. To minimize this risk, covering it with a fire-retardant sheathing, such as drywall, is required.
Your question is addressed by this passage on the City of Winnipeg website: "Can foamed plastics used as an insulation on a basement wall be left exposed? No! The Building Code expressly denies the use of foamed plastics for interior finishes. This is because the material is considered to be a fire hazard when left exposed. Where foamed plastic is used on interior walls, it must be covered by any of the approved interior finishes listed in the Building Code, i.e., drywall, plastering, plywood, hardboard, particle board, waferboard, strandboard, or wall tile (plastic or ceramic)."
I don't think this could be any clearer, but what is normally seen in many homes, especially newly built ones, differs considerably. Quite often, basement perimeter foundation walls are framed, insulated and covered with 6MIL poly to the underside of the floor joists and loosely stapled in place between these pockets. In better-insulated situations, these cavities are partially filled with high-density foam or extruded foam pieces. The poly is often sealed to the foam, creating a continuous air/vapour barrier from basement floor slab to the underside of the main floor sheathing.
Unfortunately, this is rarely covered with any type of sheathing. This is done partially to allow installation of electrical wiring and boxes in the perimeter walls and any other modifications before covering with drywall or other wall panels.
While this may seem a rather complicated route to answering your direct question, the underlying theme is simple. Any plastic foam insulation must be covered to meet existing building and fire codes. This does not mean you will be forced to immediately cover this insulation after installation if you are not completing your wall assembly. If you are planning on leaving these walls unfinished, with exposed polyethylene sheathing, this should be all right for the time being.
While this may seem like a contradiction, I see it in dozens of homes every year. In fact, many builders are installing white-coloured poly in an attempt to make a brighter, more attractive basement area. I can only surmise this is being done because it is assumed this area will remain uncovered for some time.
While this appears to be in direct contravention of the previous website notification, I don't know why this is so prevalent or allowed. Contacting your local building officials for clarification may answer your question more fully.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 and www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Tackling stubborn stains from neck to toes
QUESTION: I am cleaning up all my boots prior to storing them for the summer and I'm seeking clever storage tips. How can I clean street stains from camel-coloured suede (lamb lined) boots and is there a simple way to keep tall boots from creasing when not in use? Thank you. Sue, Winnipeg (a.k.a. Winterpeg)
ANSWER: My absolute favorite way to care for suede is to brush the fabric with baking soda and plain old water. Use a stiff brush and wipe it back and forth to remove dirt and debris. Next, brush the boots with water only. To store boots over winter, roll newspaper and stuff the boots. Doing this helps hold the shape of your boots and zaps any odour on the inside.
QUESTION: I have brown streaks in my toilet bowl from the top to the waterline. I have tried every toilet-bowl cleaner going. I even used muriatic acid. Nothing seems to budge the stain. Wondering if you have any other ideas (other than installing a new toilet). Rita, Winnipeg
ANSWER: To remove stains in a toilet, purchase a pumice stone and lubricate it with either cheap shampoo or dish soap. Wet the stone and gently wipe the toilet rim to remove marks being careful not to scratch the porcelain.
Did you know that, according to the Southern Nevada Water Authority, toilets consume about 25 per cent of water inside a home.
QUESTION: My daughter borrowed a silver necklace from me and gave it back years later. The necklace is tarnished and in need of cleaning. Do you have any recipes for cleaning jewelry that you can pass on to me? Leanne, Thompson
ANSWER: Since you probably don't own an ultrasonic cleaner as most jewellers do, fill a bowl three-quarters full with water and add a squirt of dish soap and 2 tbsp. household ammonia. Using an old toothbrush, gently brush your jewelry with the solution. (Rubber gloves are a good idea for this project.) Polish with a soft eyeglass cloth.
QUESTION: I bought a shaving mirror that sticks to the shower wall. When I first brought it home, it had some sort of non-fog coating on it. But now, after a few months, it fogs up. Do you have a suggestion for keeping my mirror clear in the shower? Thanks. Jeremy, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The easiest solution to prevent fog from forming on your mirror is to spray shaving cream onto the mirror. Wipe and repeat in one month or as needed. Another option is to purchase a fog reducer at a sporting goods store; this product is sold to prevent hockey visors from fogging up on the ice.
QUESTION: What can I do to make the flavor in bubblegum last longer? What gives gum its flavor? Cindy, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Stick (pun intended) to strong flavors such as cinnamon and mint. Stay away from fruity flavors; they don't last as long. Some theorize high sugar amounts help bubblegum keep its flavor. However, artificial sweeteners or "sugar-free" gum tend to retain more flavor for longer. You could spray your gum with breath freshener; but it might be easier just to stick a new piece in your mouth.
I enjoy your questions and tips -- keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my brand new videos/blog/website: reena.ca!
Renovation & Design
Making a move? Some things to keep in mind
Anyone who's ever moved can tell you how much of a hassle it is. And spring and summer are peak times for moving. Matt Guest, owner of First Rate Movers Inc. (firstratemovers.com), helped compile this list of moving to-dos to take some of the stress out of the process.
Reservations
Try to book a moving company or a truck as early as you can to make sure you have what you need on the date you need it. Guest says that although the busiest times for moving companies is between April and August, it's even worse during the last week of each month. If your moving date falls in that time period, make arrangements sooner rather than later.
Notify & collect documents
If you're moving out of the area, make sure to let all the firms you deal with know about a month before the move so they can collect your records -- in many cases, new firms will need to have access to them. Here is a list to keep in mind:
Doctors, dentists, orthodontists and optometrists, cable, telephone and Internet providers, utility companies (such as gas, hydro and water), schools, veterinarian.
Change addresses
Changing your address on all of your documents is not only good practice, it helps prevent identity theft as well, according to a release from Experian's ProtectMyID. Identity thieves often use unclaimed mail to steal an identity, so it's important to make sure your mail ends up with you at your new place.
Service Ontario (ontario.ca) has a list of government documents that need updating, but you might be surprised how many other companies need to be notified, such as:
Health card, driver's licence and outdoors card (accompanies a fishing licence)
Vehicle ownership and insurance company
Magazine and newspaper subscriptions
Gym and library memberships
Employer (for your paycheques and personal records)
Post office and banks
Make arrangements
About a week before your move date, call your service providers to schedule a time to have your new house hooked up with everything you need:
Cable, telephone and Internet providers
Hydro, oil and gas companies
And be sure to confirm with your moving or rental company.
-- Postmedia News
