Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Stop water leakage in foundation bolt holes
QUESTION: We have a 40-year-old bungalow. Over the past four years, one wall in the basement has been giving us a problem. If it rains, water runs out of the iron-rusted bolts, which I assume are the rods that attached the cement back steps to the house. It's only these four bolted areas that leak and we have tried countless remedies to plug these holes, but sooner or later they leak again. The water streams down the wall and heads to the sewer.
Who can I call to fix this and how huge and expensive will this project be? Thanks, Barb Potkonjak.
ANSWER: Any openings in a concrete foundation wall can allow moisture to enter, especially if they are below grade. Sealing the holes may be possible either internally or externally, but will depend largely on access. This time of year is ideal for this discussion, as many homeowners will see minor seepage as the snow melts and the ground thaws after the long winter.
The initial thing to determine is where these bolts, and the corresponding holes around them, are located relative to grade. You are probably correct these are used to secure your steps to the foundation, which are commonly used on older precast concrete steps and landings.
Often, these bolts are installed above grade below a doorway, which should cause little concern unless the steps have moved. Using a basement window, dryer vent, fresh-air intake duct or gas line as a reference point should help you determine if they are above or below the soil outside the foundation. If they are above grade, repairs should be easier than if they are lower.
It's quite likely water from heavy rains will be able to run down the walls of your home behind your steps and leak through the small holes in the foundation where the troublesome bolts are located, even if they are well above grade. This is much more likely if the steps have sunk or pulled away from the foundation even a small amount. Quite often, this occurs and leaves a fairly large gap between the precast steps and the foundation wall.
If this is what you find, filling or covering that gap may be all you need to stop the leakage. If the gap is small, filling it with an exterior-grade caulking at the top and down the sides of the steps should prevent rainwater from getting to the holes. If the gap is larger, filling it with flexible foam rods before caulking may be required. Otherwise, installation of a metal flashing that is sealed to the siding and fully covers the top of the gap may divert water away from the opening.
If you find the bolt holes are below grade, more expensive work may be required. Again, the condition of the steps should be checked initially. If they do not appear to have moved and are in the original location of installation, interior repairs may be possible. If the steps have sunken, pulled away from the home or are otherwise damaged, removal may be your next step.
Detaching the steps from the foundation by cutting or removing the bolts will allow access to the offending holes, then it should be quite simple to repair these openings from the outside. These could be filled with typical concrete patching compound. Once cured, waterproofing compound or small pieces of foundation membrane could be installed to prevent further leakage.
If the steps are precast and still in reasonable condition, they could be reset and supported with anchors installed above grade or other supports that don't require drilling a hole all the way through the foundation. If the steps are damaged, replacement with new concrete or treated wood alternatives will improve the situation.
In the unusual case where you find the steps are in good condition, do not appear to have pulled away from the foundation and there is no substantial gap along the foundation wall, interior repairs may be warranted. Filling holes or small cracks in foundation walls with injectable compounds is a common way to prevent periodic seepage. The most commonly used material is epoxy, but there are other sealants that may be equally effective.
There are several local companies that will come into your basement, drill or chisel the openings to make them more accessible and pump one of these compounds into the holes under pressure until they are filled. Once this material cures, it should seal and prevent further leakage through the gaps.
The only possible downside to this method is the bolts might continue to corrode and leakage could recur through the rusted-out bolts. If that happens, the bolts would have to be removed, but it would likely be preceded by the steps sinking or moving away from the home as the bolts deteriorated.
While many homeowners experience periodic leakage through their foundations due to cracks, deteriorated damp-proofing and weeping tiles, yours appears to be a much simpler problem. No matter what you discover about the location of the leaky bolt holes, filling and sealing these openings should solve the problem. Whether exterior work, which may include moving or replacing the steps, or interior repairs are needed, the nuisance of a leaking foundation should be eliminated once and for all.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba. Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Use pantyhose for long-term onion storage
QUESTION: I would like to know what the best way is to store onions so that they will keep for a fairly long time. Thank you, Ruth (Shoal Lake, MB)
ANSWER: My favorite onion-storage solution includes a pair of clean pantyhose. Place an onion in the toe and tie a knot above the onion. Drop another onion into the leg of the pantyhose and tie a knot.
Continue filling both legs with onions. Hang the contraption inside of a pantry or cupboard (warn family members, they may be scared at first). Each time you need an onion, cut below the knot of the next onion. Storing onions in pantyhose keeps them properly ventilated and dry so that they last a long time.
Onions can also be chopped and put into freezable containers. Chopped onions may be stored in the refrigerator for 30 days or frozen for about six months. Extra tip: Do not store whole onions next to whole potatoes, they will both spoil. Always store onions in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place.
QUESTION: I've looked through two of your books but can't find the solution I need. I received a white polyester cotton blouse trimmed in heavy cotton lace. It looks like it's been hanging for a while and has yellowed. I tried lemon juice and cream of tartar but it didn't seem to do anything -- I just guessed at the measurements and the time it needed to soak.
Is there anything else I can try? I currently have it soaking in borax and water. I am desperate because I need it to sing in a choir and I don't like yellowed whites. Rosabelle (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: Well, the great news is the blouse is white, which makes cleaning this stain easier than most. If you have tried borax or washing soda and the stain has not budged, you will need to move onto a more drastic solution because sometimes stains are here to stay.
Assuming the blouse is 100-per-cent washable, use a product called Iron Out, found at home hardware stores such as Canadian Tire. Put the blouse into a pot filled with enough water to cover the fabric. Add one quarter cup of Iron Out. Boil the blouse for five minutes. Using tongs remove the fabric from the water; the stain should be a distant memory, if the stain has faded but still remains repeat the process.
QUESTION: What's your best advice for removing odour from hockey equipment and, most specifically, hockey gloves? The gloves are synthetic. We are unable to go a full season without the gloves becoming unbearable.
Also, what is your best advice for storing hockey equipment between games and practices to prevent odours from building? Thanks. Elliott (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: The easiest thing for you to do is move out or encourage family members to switch to chess. But since those are not options, let's talk cleaning.
When it comes to storing hockey equipment, the first step is to make a hockey tree using old hockey sticks and nails. Hockey trees can also be purchased at sports stores. Whenever your hockey player returns home from a game or a practice, make sure he or she hangs all equipment on the tree which should be stored in a cold, ventilated area such as outside or in a garage. Freezing equipment between uses kills the bacteria that cause some of the odor.
Before washing equipment, check the care label instructions. I wash all hockey equipment, including gloves, in the washing machine and lay them out to dry. Hockey equipment can also be washed in the bathtub with hot water and detergent. You can even add one-half cup of vinegar, borax or washing soda to the washing machine to battle odors. Hockey gloves will not lose their shape and you will once again breathe easy.
When the season ends stuff skates, gloves and helmets with oodles of crumpled up newspaper to absorb odors.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my brand new website: reena.ca.
Renovation & Design
Sprucing up the house can be good exercise
For many years, I have been involved in the building and supplies business, mentoring people in home-repair services, home renovations and a home-services referral network -- not to mention many years in radio.
Most recently, I've been webcasting on the Internet, teaching the listening and viewing audience about the how-to, what-to, where-to, why-to, when-to and the who-to of home improvement.
One thing that popped up and met me head-on was my health and the fact I am not getting any younger.
Over the past half decade, I have been faced with a number of health challenges and now that I have reached 70, I want to improve my lifestyle, since I want to be able to continue writing articles such as this, doing my webcast and other initiatives where I can provide information to the public.
It all came together when a good friend from past radio days introduced me to a program that is changing my outlook on healthy living.
My wife and I were introduced to a health-clinic exercise club, and it has changed our lifestyle.
First, to become involved, we had to be referred by our doctor, who sent our files to the clinic so we could set up an interview to see what program would best suit our needs.
This is where it dawned on me that there are a lot of activities at home that allow us to not only get a job done, but provide a workout.
A few examples of the types of things I'm talking about are cleaning out the storage room, kitchen and closets, reorganizing the crawl space, rearranging the furniture, turning the mattresses, washing and or painting walls -- and yes, cutting the grass or shovelling snow.
The list goes on and on. Folks, I am not trying to sound like a "do-goody," but, you know, getting off the couch and into an exercise program such as a health clinic -- where your doctor is informed of your activities -- really adds a new dimension to your lifestyle.
Sometimes, it takes a major surgery or a health scare to make people realize that it is time to slow down and smell the roses.
So take it from me, folks, don't get in a rut. Look ahead, tackle those home-improvement tasks and get some good exercise at the same time.
Get into it folks, and live well, and remember: "It's Just That Easy!"
For more home-improvement information, to send Shell an email, or to watch Shell's AskShell webcast, go to www.AskShell.com.
Renovation & Design
Homegrown garlic beats store-bought
Q: My goal this year is to be-come a self-sustained gardener, able to grow most of the vegetables I use, including things like garlic. A few years ago I started growing garlic and couldn't believe the difference in taste from the store-bought. I am looking for a good reference on how to grow garlic and was hoping you might be able to help me.
A: I understand what you're saying about the taste of homegrown garlic compared with store-bought, some of which comes directly from China. By the time it gets here it has already started to sprout and dry -- the flavour long since lost.
Your question arrived about the same time I received a copy of Liz Pri-meau's new book, In Pursuit of Garlic -- An Intimate Look at the Divinely Odorous Bulb (Greystone Books).
Over the past few years, garlic has become an 'A' list item for foodies and gardeners alike. Liz does a wonderful job introducing us to garlic and its role in history, art, medicine and science. She then gets into the many garlic varieties, from Russian Red to Kettle River Giant. Her chapter on how to plant, grow, feed and harvest it is a must-read for anyone wishing to grow garlic.
I highly recommend the book to anyone interested in growing or even using garlic for their own cooking.
I also highly recommend growing your own garlic. After your first taste, you'll wonder how you ever cooked without it.
Q: I received an azalea as a gift just before Christmas and it bloomed beautifully, but now is losing its leaves. What I might be doing wrong?
A: With indoor or florist azaleas, the loss of leaves is usually a sign of lack of water. They should be kept evenly moist, but not wet. When you stick your finger into the soil and the top feels dry, it's time to water.
Put the pot in the sink and let the water run on the soil until it comes out the bottom.
-- Postmedia News
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Settlement, workmanship can create cracks
QUESTION: Ari, I hope you can help me with a problem. A number of hairline cracks are appearing in the ceiling of our 1,500-sq.-ft. bungalow. The cracks are found in the foyer, living room, kitchen and nook, which is open-concept in design. They follow the Sheetrock's length-wise edges. It started with one a few years ago. More are appearing over time.
The home was built in 2004, so it is constructed using relatively new technology. The roof trusses are built on 24-inch centres and OSB was used to sheet the roof. I see no signs of movement in the basement or elsewhere in the house. A string along the bottom of the support beam does not show serious deflection. Humidity is controlled at 40 per cent or so during the winter.
Is there something I should be doing? What would be the best repair so the problem does not reoccur?
Thanks, D'Arcy Keast
ANSWER: The cause of ceiling and wall cracks in homes, especially newer ones like yours, can be attributed to either settlement or workmanship issues. Since you feel there is little sign of movement in the home, the obvious conclusion is original construction defects. I will suggest possible repairs and offer a plausible explanation for the phenomenon.
The term settlement is often used in regard to buildings to describe sinking or movement. This occurs in many buildings due to changes in soil conditions over time. Some areas have minimal problems with settlement, due to sandy or other favourable soil conditions and others such as ours can have major issues.
Because we are living in a historic flood plain known as the Red River Valley, our soils are highly subject to movement. This is due to thousands of years of flooding of our rivers, which have deposited multiple layers of silt and expansive clay soils in our region. These clay soils will expand and contract with changes in moisture levels and temperature. This will often cause many homes, built on traditional spread footings, to move or sink, especially after initial construction.
To solve this issue, many newer home foundations are built on deep-poured concrete piers, which prevent movement due to soil expansion and contraction. The fact you have seen little movement in your home leads me to conclude your home is built in this manner or you are otherwise fortunate.
Many, many homeowners have observed cracking, similar to yours, in their walls and ceilings over the past year due to back-to-back dry summers. The soil may have contained less moisture than in several years and subsequently shrunk considerably. This even occurred in older homes, which had been more or less stable for decades. While you may not have been able to observe this in your telepost measurements, if your home is built on a footing, some settlement may have contributed to the cracks. While this is probable, I still think your problems began with initial construction.
When homes are currently constructed, the underside of the roof trusses are covered with thick polyethylene sheathing, which provides an air/vapour barrier for the top of the building envelope. This prevents excessive warm-air intrusion into the attic, which can cause major moisture issues if not installed.
The difficulty with this sheathing is it must be overlapped and caulked at seams, protrusions and the junction with the exterior wall air/vapour barrier. With today's complicated floor and roof plans, this may lead to bunching of this plastic sheathing in several areas.
Because of this, it can be difficult for contractors installing the drywall on ceilings to properly secure the individual panels to the trusses while maintaining flat surfaces. This can cause small gaps between the drywall and the trusses and poorly secured fasteners. This is particularly true in large open-concept areas, like your home, where drywall sheets may be 12-to-14 feet in length.
Compounding the problem of proper fastening of ceiling drywall are the large amounts of insulation that are now being installed in the attics above. While this insulation is very light and fluffy when installed, adding minimal weight to the ceilings, over time it may become heavier.
Some types of insulation can absorb moisture from other building materials or frost buildup in the attic, particularly in the springtime. This can cause poorly secured areas of drywall to move slightly, and can also recede in the warm summer months as the attic dries out. This can cause drywall screws to "pop" or push out drywall compound that covers their heads. It can also cause drywall tape and seams to open, which is likely what you are observing.
As I said earlier, the likely cause of your ceiling cracks is original workmanship. This may be from poor securing of the drywall sheathing, as discussed, or sloppy application of drywall tape and compound at the seams.
A poor-quality taping job may not be noticeable at the time of possession, but may become more visible as the house ages and building materials dry out, shrink or move. If you have a flat ceiling not covered by stipple or other coatings, hairline cracks may be all the more visible.
The solution is to hire a reputable drywall contractor to properly secure the ceiling followed by taping and painting the damaged areas.
While this explanation may seem oversimplified, it's quite a common occurrence, which will likely not reoccur once properly repaired.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com