Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Seepage may date back to foundation error
QUESTION: I would like your opinion on a situation with the basement in our home. We have a Logix Styrofoam/concrete basement in a six-year-old home. We had some water leakage into the basement a couple of years after the home was built. The water was nothing significant, but it was cause for some concern.
We had a contractor come in to assess the situation in the spring of 2011. He found some cracks in the foundation and suggested filling the cracks and sealing the basement where the water was coming in with crack injections with a compound that expands and seals once it comes into contact with water. After this was done, we did not have any water leakage in the basement for the rest of the spring or summer, even though it was the wettest in the past 50 years. Before, when we had the cracks in the foundation, if there was a heavy rain we would see some leakage.
In the spring of 2012, I noticed a small amount of water dribble in at the same location over a couple of days and then stop. We have not had any water problems since, even though this past spring has again been very wet.
We have had some heavy rains and I even soaked the area with a sprinkler on a couple of occasions and there was no leakage. My sump pump has been running since the spring and I do not think there is a problem with the weeping tile.
We are stumped as to where that little bit of water could have come from. We had considered excavating down to the footings to check the weeping tile, replace the blue skin and add dimple membrane to that part of the foundation. This would be very costly as well as messy, because we have a patio on that side of the house.
What could have been the source of this water? Do you have any possible suggestions or solutions? Is there a need to worry about any future leakage? We would appreciate your thoughts and opinions on this matter.
Sheldon Kaminski, Langenburg, Sask.
ANSWER: The answer to your question about the source of the moisture is easy, compared to the possible repair scenarios. It is difficult to figure out what is going on with your newer foundation without knowing the soil conditions or construction of the homes in your area. I will offer some suggestions, but will focus more on the likely true cause of your predicament.
Insulated concrete form (ICF) foundations are becoming very popular in some areas due to their excellent insulation properties and ease of installation. Unfortunately, with most newer building technologies there may be a learning curve for contractors who are used to older methods of construction.
More troubling than that is the possibility of amateurs assuming they have the expertise to use these new systems when they may be in over their heads. I would expect your home is a product of one of these two issues. If properly installed, there should be no reason for a new foundation to crack, especially an ICF foundation. This could be a problem with the concrete mix or installation, steel reinforcing, waterproofing, grading, or other defect.
Figuring out which factor or variables are deficient in your foundation may be tricky, and even if you dig down to the footing you may not be able to determine the issue unless you were present during the forming and pouring of the ICFs.
Regardless, there should be no reason for a foundation to have significant cracks in its first decade, unless a serious error was made. I am also surprised a contractor was so easily able to identify the cracks, as the polystyrene inside and outside of this system could hide them, unless they were large enough to displace the foam forms, exposing the concrete itself. If that is the situation, filling these with some form of expanding material will not be a permanent repair.
If the cracks are significant in size, they are due to movement of the foundation walls. This could occur due to early backfilling before the concrete was cured, insufficient reinforcement, or freezing concrete.
If any of these issues is the root cause of the moisture, there is no guarantee the foundation walls will not continue to move, even after injecting the cracks. Hydrostatic pressure from the soil outside the foundation is the likely source of the seepage and this may cause the cracks to expand further, or new ones to develop. If this occurs, it could allow the waterproofing membrane to become damaged, making future leakage a certainty.
Because of the serious implications of future foundation movement on your new home, immediate evaluation is critical. Inspection of the home by a professional structural engineer would be a good place to start. If you have the plans for the home, you may want to contact the engineer who reviewed the plans prior to construction to see if his or her specifications were followed. A stamp with the individual's name should be visible on the foundation plan. If this is not possible, a call to the local Association of Professional Engineers may provide assistance in locating an expert in your area.
Regardless of the specifics of where the water is coming from in your leaky new foundation, I'm afraid I suspect someone made a serious mistake during construction that has led to excessive cracking. Finding the defect should be the first priority, which will point the way to the proper repairs in preventing further deterioration and leakage.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca .
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Valuable advice given at renovation show
Last week at the Winnipeg Convention Centre, numerous experts were on hand to share advice with thousands of Manitobans intent on doing a renovation to their home.
The Kitchen, Bath and Renovation Show featured hundreds of booths displaying fabulous products that would make any home look like a castle.
Guest speakers were on hand to help you turn tired into terrific.
Following are some highlights from various presenters and things that I learned over the weekend:
Andrew Downward taught us how to carry out the perfect paint job (Preparation, Preparation, Application). We learned about brush management, ensuring that walls remain smooth, the W method of using rollers and the importance of buying the right tape for the job.
He told us the greatest difficulty people have is deciding on colours and he had a wonderful suggestion for making the decision. He told us to look inside our clothes closets, or better yet our wives' clothes closets, as they have better colour co-ordination and see what colours we like and wear.
If these are our favourite colours to wear every day, then they are likely our favourite colours to paint our walls.
Michael Penney gave the crowd a number of handy pointers on how to turn small DIY projects into features and make walls and rooms stand out.
The simplest items such as cushion covers, framed hangings and table covers can bring life to otherwise plain surroundings.
He also gave sage career advice to young people about realizing and pursuing your passion and then turning it into a career.
Tony Teunis and Mike Kerr from All Canadian Renovations spoke of the importance of picking the right renovator, a RenoMark renovator, one who puts everything in writing, puts a warranty on their work and avoids the discount cash deal.
In other words, they spoke of hiring a qualified, ethical contractor and not just the pursuit of the cheapest price.
Finally, Mariel Hemingway shared many life lessons and the importance of a healthy lifestyle coupled with healthy products. Hers was a fascinating life story that appears to be one of happiness after many tragedies.
Now that we have all of this vital information, we will be able to expand it to our entire home and garden at the Home Expressions Show March 15-17 at the Winnipeg Convention Centre.
Mike Moore is president of the Manitoba Home Builders' Association.
Renovation & Design
Don't let a mouse live in your house
A lot of homeowners might be starting to notice some unwanted guests. No, not the in-laws. I'm talking about pests, and mice in particular.
Cold weather drives most animals and insects to find warmth, which could lead them straight to your house. And if they find a food source, they're moving in.
What are the signs you have mice? Mouse droppings. Little bits of chewed-up food packages. You might also be able to hear them in your walls or ceiling. They lurk in the cellar, the garage, pantry, kitchen -- and even bedrooms.
It takes just one mouse to make most people feel uncomfortable in their homes. And I don't blame them.
Mice are known to carry diseases, bacteria, viruses and parasites. Breathing in small particles from their droppings, urine, saliva or nesting materials can make you sick. The particles can get into the air when you sweep or vacuum so spray any area where mice have been with a disinfectant, before you sweep or vacuum, to help keep the particles from flying around. Remember to wear a disposable mask and gloves.
Mice can also contaminate surfaces in your home with their saliva or urine, which is almost impossible to detect. Next thing you know you could be drinking from a pop can that has mouse urine on the lid.
Some people might think that a couple of mice isn't a big deal. But two mice in your home can do a lot of damage. In just six months, two mice can eat four pounds of food and leave 18,000 droppings. Plus, mice multiply fast. One female can have five-to-10 litters of about five or six mice a year. Then those mice can start reproducing after only 30 days. Within three months six mice can multiply into 60. So if you've found one, there are probably more.
The worst part is the risk of contamination. Mice contaminate about 10 times more food than they eat.
These rodents are also destructive. They can chew through electrical wires and cause an electrical fire. They've been known to destroy rigid foam and fiberglass batt insulation. They can also gnaw through any wood in your home, including furniture, trim, cabinets, doors and even your home's structure. Repairing all the damage they cause can be very expensive. And if you're thinking of selling your home, a pest problem is usually a deal breaker.
So how do you get rid of them?
I've heard of people using electrical devices that emit sound to get rid of mice. They usually don't work. At first such a device might have an effect, but eventually mice get used to it.
Poisons aren't always effective either. Plus, it's a risk if you have pets; they could eat the poison or a poisoned dead mouse. When mice are poisoned they usually die somewhere inaccessible, like in a wall. It won't be long before you start to notice a foul smell. And then you have a new problem -- how are you going to get a dead mouse out of your wall?
If you're serious about getting rid of these critters for good, you need to call a professional. You don't want to risk an infestation.
An experienced pest control professional can find where the mice are coming in. They'll check for cracks and spaces around vents, wires, pipes, windows and doors. Then they'll block their entry with mesh wiring, wood or spray foam insulation, or both.
Next, clean your house -- including the garage and basement. Get rid of any clutter and trash. Mice love messy places, which make it easy for them to hide and nest. Store all food sources in sealed containers, including pet food.
To help stop mice from coming in, place weatherstripping around your doors; as a bonus, this will also increase energy efficiency. If your house has a chimney, get a chimney cap installed. Keep compost far from your home. Also move any firewood or mulch from around your home's exterior. These are excellent places for mice to hide in.
All mice need is a little crack in a wall or foundation to get in. A sealed home is the only way to stop the problem. It's also the most effective and humane. So check your home annually for cracks where mice can sneak in.
Catch Mike Holmes in his new series, Holmes Makes It Right, Tuesdays at 9 p.m. on HGTV. For more information, visit hgtv.ca. For more information on home renovations, visit makeitright.ca
Renovation & Design
How to keep the lumps out of brown sugar
QUESTION: I enjoy a bowl of oat cereal for breakfast and like to sprinkle it with brown sugar. My problem is the sugar is always lumpy and no amount of shaking makes the sugar finer for sprinkling. Thanks. Gord, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Brown sugar hardens when its moisture inside evaporates; all you need to do is replenish the moisture with one of these easy solutions. Put a cut-up apple or slice of bread into an airtight container with the sugar. Softening will take about a day. Or drape a damp towel over the un-lidded bowl and leave overnight. Or put the sugar into the microwave with a separate bowl of water. Turn the microwave on and check every 30 seconds to observe if the sugar is soft. A long-term fix is to purchase a piece of clay; these are available at most grocery stores. Soak the clay in water for a few hours and then store it inside the brown sugar container to keep it moist.
QUESTION: I'm sure I read something in a past column of yours regarding painting basement floors. Ours is cement, and the finish used was recommended by our local building supply dealer and applied according to directions. It does not seem to be working, and the paint is coming off in patches. I believe the problem is dampness coming in from underneath. Any help you could give me would be appreciated. Holly (Birtle, MB)
ANSWER: This is a common problem in basements that have not been sealed before painting. Consider sanding off the peeling paint and then applying a sealing product such as Aqua Seal before applying the proper paint. Following that, talk to your local hardware store about the best epoxy paint to use on the floor.
QUESTION: I sprayed my copper tea set and my silver-plated set with hairspray a few years ago to avoid cleaning frequently. I used silver cleaner, but it did not work on the copper or on the silver-plated articles, and now they are looking worse. Do you have suggestions on how to restore these items? Thank you for your wonderful column, I enjoy it very much and I am using many of your hints for my daily life. Eugenia, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Before cleaning the copper and silver, wipe the metal with rubbing alcohol to remove the hairspray (test on an inconspicuous area first). The best way to clean copper is to either spray and polish the copper with WD-40 or combine one-half cup vinegar with 1 tbsp. salt and 1 tbsp. flour. Apply to metal; leave for 15 mins. Rinse with warm water and polish (always test first). Taken from Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets.
In terms of the silver cleaner, place crumpled aluminum foil in a plastic bucket. Dissolve one-quarter cup washing soda in 4 quarts of hot water. Place silver on foil and let stand for a few seconds until the tarnish is gone. Remove silver, rinse and dry. Also, corrosion caused by food can be repaired my mixing 1 tbsp. hot vinegar, 2 cups water and 2 tsp. salt. Soak for 5 mins. and polish.
QUESTION: I read your column every week, however, I don't recall seeing a solution for removing quite a buildup of moss in our driveway, and as I am elderly, I am afraid of slipping on it. I once read about either vinegar or bleach and boiling water but would like to hear a more accurate solution from you if that is possible. Sincerely, Flo
ANSWER: You don't need bleach or boiling water all you need is "Household Superstar Vinegar." Put pickling vinegar into a spray bottle and spray the moss. The acid in vinegar is strong enough to kill weeds. Be aware that vinegar will kill anything green, so keep it away from your green grassy lawn.
Manitoba Readers Comment on Swimsuit Care
Dear Reena:
I have been making my own bathing suits for over 30 years. I swim almost every day and this is what I do with swimsuits after each use. I run cold water in the bathroom sink and add about three quarter-cups of white vinegar to the water and then plunk baking soda into the sink, which I leave for a while. Then I hang the dry bathing suit to dry and they last a long time! I also line my swimsuits and I think that keeps them looking better as well. Sincerely, Diana
Dear Reena:
A swimsuit made from Lycra will deteriorate when exposed to chlorine. Swimsuits made from polyester are much longer-lasting.
I swim three times a week with my triathlon club. When I used to use Lycra suits, they would deteriorate within a couple of months, even with careful rinsing and hanging to dry. My polyester swimsuits have lasted years, with only some slight fading. I highly recommend them.
Fabulous Tip of the Week
Dear Reena:
I have a yummy tip for your readers! You can make the best ribs in a slow cooker if you remove them from the slow cooker 30 mins. before serving and place them onto a baking sheet. Broil until browned. This way, they are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Let me know what you think! Hilda
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Missed a column? Can't remember a solution? Need a speaker for an upcoming event? Check out my brand-new blog/website: reena.ca