Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
No simple answer to heating a crawl space
QUESTION: Firstly, thank you for saving me with your previous article on how to properly heat a crawl space. I had purchased the R20 insulation and was about to start insulating the floor until I read your article.
Quick question for you. Our addition is eight feet by 42 feet and the space above is part of a great room and our master bedroom. What type and how many heaters should I hang from the floor joists to help provide comfort above?
I look forward to your response.
Bill Moons
ANSWER: I'm very pleased that advice I provided in a previous article helped save you the effort of improperly insulating the floor of your crawl space, and the more difficult job of having to remove it later on. I'm sure insulating the perimeter of the crawl space has made the area much better.
Your question about heating the properly insulated crawl space provides a different set of challenges and will depend on various factors. It would be very simple for me to suggest you install two or three baseboard heaters and thermostats in your crawl space, which may be sufficient, but that would not be the best practice.
Heating a space depends on several factors and should be determined by a professional trained to read heating charts and make such a determination. A licensed HVAC contractor or an electrician familiar with such installations should be consulted before purchasing and installing any heaters. They should do calculations based on published data to determine the required amount of heat, normally measured in BTUs or equivalent.
Once this is established, the amount could be converted to KW if electric heaters are being installed and the appropriate equipment purchased.
The reason this is not that simple is because there are other variables when determining the amount of heat required for your crawl space. The location of your home, the amount of tree cover, proximity to neighbouring homes or structures and other environmental factors should be considered.
The amount of insulation inside the perimeter grade beam or knee-wall will be another factor, and the height of the crawl space above the ground will also be used to calculate the total volume of air to be heated in this space. All of these items should be checked and measured to ensure you are providing sufficient thermal requirements for your home.
Another consideration is the capacity of your electrical system for adding heating units. If you have a modern 200-amp system, there should be little concern with installation of electric heaters for your crawl space or the additional living space above. But if you only have 100-amp service, you may be limited in capacity.
Most homes, at least those of typical size, will be adequately served by a modern 100-amp system, as long as they have natural-gas heating. If you upgraded to a 200-amp service when the addition was constructed, installation of a few baseboard heaters should be a simple affair. But if you have a smaller service, you may be overtaxing your system if you install too many electric heaters. Again, consultation with an electrical or heating contractor will easily answer that concern.
The final consideration is the type of heating system to be installed. If you have a forced-air system, either natural gas or electric, you may be able to use it, as long as it has sufficient additional heating capacity. If there is an access hatch, or an old abandoned window connecting your basement with the crawl space, that may allow use of your existing heating system. Additional ducting could be installed and run into the crawl space through this access port to pump warm air into the area, and a return air duct added to help circulate the forced air back to the furnace.
The main advantage of this system over baseboards is the drying effect of the air on an often-humid space. Electric baseboards are inexpensive and easy to install, but do little to eliminate moisture because they don't move the air in the crawl space.
So, you should first consult a professional heating contractor to look at the crawl space, assess your current heating system and provide you with options. If it's determined your furnace has enough capacity to heat the area below your crawl space, and access is present, I would get a quote to run ducting for forced-air heat.
However, if this is too difficult due to limited access to the existing ducting or to the crawl space, electric baseboard heat is the way to go. In that case, the heating technician should be able to measure the area, determine how much insulation is present and do a few simple calculations to figure out the heating requirements.
Once that's done, the only thing left to determine is where to put the new heaters, how many, and how many KW for each unit.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca .
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
How to get those mushrooms looking clean
QUESTION: What is the best way to clean mushrooms? I buy them in bulk and soak them in hot water to get rid of all of the dirt, but they still look dirty.
Joy (Emerson)
ANSWER: When purchasing mushrooms, begin by buying them through a reliable source as picking wild mushrooms can be dangerous. Store mushrooms in the fridge in either a brown paper bag or on a plate covered with a damp cloth or paper towel.
Unless you are dealing with dried mushrooms, it is never advisable to soak them in water because they are very porous, much like sponges. All that is required for fresh mushrooms (which, by the way, are grown in a sterile environment) is to either wipe them with a damp cloth or brush them with a toothbrush or mushroom brush. Avoid peeling mushrooms, as doing this takes much of the flavour away from them.
QUESTION: I know bats are beneficial to our environment, however, we do have a problem with them roosting on our home for a few hours every night. They are staining our stucco with their droppings. I hose off the droppings and have tried scrubbing the stains but nothing seems to work. If you have any suggestions on how to keep them from roosting, that would be my first request. And how can I remove the stains that they leave behind? Thank you for your help!
Sincerely, Amy (Kasota, Minn.)
ANSWER: The easiest way to prevent bats from roosting on your home is to light it up. Bats prefer dark and quiet environments. Therefore, if you can shine a spotlight on several areas of your home, this will help discourage them.
Secondly, screen the areas where the bats tend to roost to encourage them to find another location to live, such as a bat house. Put jars of Vicks VapoRub where the bats like to hang out, as they hate the smell. Lastly, if you don't mind bats living nearby, consider investing in a bat house. This will be a good compromise for both of you.
If you choose to invest in a bat house, place it in a high area that has the most sunlight. Although bats do not enjoy light, they do like warmth, and once the climate of the bat house is toasty and comfy, the bats will be able to call it home.
Cleaning bat droppings is not risk-free and may contaminate other areas of your home and yourself. It is not clear what kind of surfaces you are attempting to clean. Stucco, siding, brick? One option is muriatic acid, a dangerous and powerful cleaner for concrete surfaces, use with caution according to the directions on the container. However because muriatic acid is so strong, you may want to begin with something a little less dangerous, such as phosphoric acid masonry cleaner or TSP. Warning: It is important never to mix TSP with any acid! Test on an inconspicuous area first. WD-40 is an option for siding and smoother surfaces.
QUESTION: I am desperate! I have fancy quilts made by my mother. She kept them in a plastic bag with mothballs and yes. you guessed it, I can't get the smell out. I need your help! Cecile (Elkhorn)
ANSWER: Put the quilts inside of a large plastic bag. In with the quilts, place a box of fabric softener sheets such as Bounce. Leave for a few weeks and remove the quilts from the bag. Other options to place inside the garbage bag are: activated charcoal, a bottle of essential oils or coffee grounds. Be sure to confine any of these items into containers that will not spill onto the quilts.
Reena Nerbas' website is www.householdsolutions.org . You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Careful preparation key to proper paint job
LIKE any good Canadian, I love Victoria Day long weekend. It's the opening act to the big show -- the call that let's us know summer's here. Time to sit back, take a deep breath and take in everything that keeps us here in this great country.
While sitting back and taking it all in, some homeowners may have noticed that it's time for a change -- at least when it comes to their homes. And what's one of the quickest ways to give a home a new look? With a fresh coat of paint.
A lot of homeowners will be gearing up to paint this spring. It's one of the most popular times of the year to do it -- just look at all the paint sales going on between the new barbeques and patio furniture.
Compared to other renovation projects, painting is relatively fast and cheap. You can get the most bang for your buck if you do it right. But screw it up and it will cost you. If you're going to paint your home, you need to know what's the best approach.
Before doing anything, do your research.
Know exactly what the project will require. This will change depending on the job and the type of paint you'll be using. Always read the instructions on the paint label -- and follow them. It might end up being a better idea to hire a pro to get the job done right the first time. Especially if you're thinking of taking on your exterior.
Painting exteriors
Painting outdoors is trickier than indoors. Why? Because you have to deal with the weather. That includes moisture. You need to make sure any surface you paint or stain is dry -- before and after. Humidity should be below 40 per cent. Anything higher and the paint or stain will never dry.
If there's a good chance of rain three to four days before or after painting, I would hold off on the job. You run the risk of the paint not adhering to the wood properly. That leads to chipping. After all that work, I know I wouldn't be happy if the paint started to chip and flake or if the stain popped off. And as a homeowner, you shouldn't be either.
If you're painting any wood exterior, including trim, window frames, garage doors, shutters, whatever, it can't have more than 16 per cent moisture in it. How will you know if it's dry enough? By using a moisture metre. That's why we hire pros -- any professional painter will have a moisture metre in their toolbox. If they don't, I wouldn't call them a pro.
We know you need dry weather for exterior paint jobs. But you also need warm weather. Ideally, you want the temperature to stay between 20-27 C. Anything warmer and the paint will dry too fast and not cure properly, making it look uneven.
The right preparation is key for any job. When painting wood exteriors that means scraping it, sanding it and priming it. Some people want to skip over priming. But if you don't prime, you're not sealing your wood against moisture. The result? A bad job.
Follow through and do it right. Otherwise, you're wasting your time and money.
Painting interiors
Whether you're painting indoors or outdoors, adhesion is the most important thing. If you're painting inside you want to make sure the paint sticks to the wall. How do we do this? By preparing the surface and making sure it's clean. If there's grease, dirt or dust on the wall the paint won't stick. Read the paint label. It will tell you what products you can use to clean the surface to be painted that won't affect the quality of the paint.
You should also take the time to fix any flaws in your drywall, plaster or trim. That includes holes, cracks or chips. If you're using compound to fill anything in, sand the surface down a bit before applying the compound. That extra grit will help grab the compound. Same goes for painting. Do you want to sand the entire surface you're painting? Well, if you're looking for a quick job this ain't it. That's why we prime. Go figure.
Priming is important inside and out. Not only does it seal the surface, which we need, but it also gives us the right texture for the paint to stick. What kind of primer should you use? It depends on the type of paint you're using. No matter what, your paint and primer need to be compatible. If not, you'll end up with an ugly breakup all over your walls.
There's so much choice when it comes to different types of paint. Your best bet is to talk to a pro and tell them about your job and what you need. Nowadays, most paints for interior use are safe, even for pregnant woman. But as a rule of thumb I try to use water-based or latex paints, even outdoors, that are GreenSeal. This makes sure there's less off-gassing and fumes.
No matter how big or small your project, do it right the first time. If you're going to sacrifice a weekend, make it worth your effort.
-- Postmedia News
Catch Mike in his new series, Holmes Inspection, airing Thursdays at 8 p.m. ET/PT on HGTV. For more information, visit www.hgtv.ca . For more information on home renovations, visit makeitright.ca .
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Stain on cardigan need not be permanent
QUESTION: I marked my white cardigan with a blue permanent marker. You said once before to use bug repellent to remove marker but I had already used a stain remover and then rinsed in cold water. Is it too late to try bug repellent? Should I hang the cardigan in the sun, would that help? Betty (Blumenort, Man.)
ANSWER: Sunlight will not help such a prominent and permanent stain. Spray the area with bug repellent and blot with water until marker is gone. A nurse recently told me she uses waterless hand cleaner to get permanent marker out of fabric. Other possible solutions: Mr. Clean original cleaner, hairspray, rubbing alcohol, WD-40, Sunlight laundry bar soap or soak the stain overnight in paint thinner and wash. Repeat as necessary.
QUESTION: We bought an old camper. The previous owners used mothballs inside. As a result, all of the foam mattresses smell like mothballs. I washed everything and have left the windows open and placed a raw onion inside. I washed the camper with Mr. Clean and Comet. What can I do to get rid of the mothball smell in the mattresses? I've had them outside for about two weeks. Thanks for your help. Jean (Lac du Bonnet, Man.)
ANSWER: When you're desperate, you're desperate and mothballs are one of those odours that can linger for years. Instead of temporarily covering the smell with air freshener sprays, you need to kill it. Vodka neutralizes most odours on contact and then evaporates. Pour vodka into a spray bottle and proceed to spray the smelly areas within the mattress. If you do not want to use vodka, make a solution of 50/50 ammonia and water. Spray the mattress liberally. Air dry. After the mattress is dry, sprinkle with baking soda. Leave for a day and vacuum.
QUESTION: What is liquid smoke used for? Mannie, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You may have seen recipes that call for liquid smoke. The purpose of it is to impart barbeque or smoky flavour into food. This product is sometimes used by people who do not have a charcoal grill but enjoy smoky flavour. Many liquid smokes are all natural and they can be used safely. Some people use it in sauces such as barbeque sauce, stews and marinades. Other people find it has a chemical flavour and prefer not to use it.
Feedback from Manitoba readers:
I read your column, as I do every week, and noticed the question form Ingrid in Minnesota. The black goo that fell on her carpet is 'oil' from the faulty ballast. Old ballasts used to contain PCBs and that is why nobody will touch it. She will probably have to remove the carpet or call a hazardous waste company. Her electrician should have known better and should have prepared the work area to prevent the spill from getting on the floor.
From the US EPA website...
Do my fluorescent light ballasts contain PCBs?
-- Ballasts manufactured through 1979 may contain PCBs.
-- Ballasts manufactured between 1979 and 1998 that do not contain PCBs should be labelled "No PCBs." If a ballast is not labelled "No PCBs," it is best to assume it contains PCBs.
Hope it works out for her. Keep up the good work. Kevin, Winnipeg
Hey Reena,
After reading the subject article in Saturday's Free Press, I have a couple of comments that may help:
1. "It sounds as though all of the glass was cleaned up." There is no mention of broken glass in Ingrid's question.
2. The "electrician" Ingrid called was most likely not a licensed electrician, as any journeyman electrician has most likely changed a lot of ballasts from the time they were a new apprentice. They are also skilled at changing ballasts without dropping the goop onto the floor or anywhere else.
3. The "Black Goop" is tar insulation that almost all ballasts have inside. The reason ballasts need to be replaced is they leak and stop functioning.
4. Get a qualified carpet cleaner, tell them it is tar based, and they will be able to remove most of the stain.
Hope this helps. Glockenfeather Nosetweak, a.k.a. Big Bird
Fantastic Tip of the Week:
Looking for a healthy snack? Try homemade salsa. Salsa does not need to be cooked, however uncooked salsa has more of a bite. If you choose not to cook salsa, you may want to caramelize the onions before adding them to your salsa.
In a blender combine: 4 chopped Roma tomatoes, 1 small onion, 3 sprigs of cilantro, 2 Jalape±o peppers, 2 garlic cloves, juice of 2 limes and half tsp. salt. Blend until the desired texture is reached. If you choose to cook salsa, allow it to simmer for 15-30 minutes until the thickness is appealing to you.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
