Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Careful preparation key to proper paint job
LIKE any good Canadian, I love Victoria Day long weekend. It's the opening act to the big show -- the call that let's us know summer's here. Time to sit back, take a deep breath and take in everything that keeps us here in this great country.
While sitting back and taking it all in, some homeowners may have noticed that it's time for a change -- at least when it comes to their homes. And what's one of the quickest ways to give a home a new look? With a fresh coat of paint.
A lot of homeowners will be gearing up to paint this spring. It's one of the most popular times of the year to do it -- just look at all the paint sales going on between the new barbeques and patio furniture.
Compared to other renovation projects, painting is relatively fast and cheap. You can get the most bang for your buck if you do it right. But screw it up and it will cost you. If you're going to paint your home, you need to know what's the best approach.
Before doing anything, do your research.
Know exactly what the project will require. This will change depending on the job and the type of paint you'll be using. Always read the instructions on the paint label -- and follow them. It might end up being a better idea to hire a pro to get the job done right the first time. Especially if you're thinking of taking on your exterior.
Painting exteriors
Painting outdoors is trickier than indoors. Why? Because you have to deal with the weather. That includes moisture. You need to make sure any surface you paint or stain is dry -- before and after. Humidity should be below 40 per cent. Anything higher and the paint or stain will never dry.
If there's a good chance of rain three to four days before or after painting, I would hold off on the job. You run the risk of the paint not adhering to the wood properly. That leads to chipping. After all that work, I know I wouldn't be happy if the paint started to chip and flake or if the stain popped off. And as a homeowner, you shouldn't be either.
If you're painting any wood exterior, including trim, window frames, garage doors, shutters, whatever, it can't have more than 16 per cent moisture in it. How will you know if it's dry enough? By using a moisture metre. That's why we hire pros -- any professional painter will have a moisture metre in their toolbox. If they don't, I wouldn't call them a pro.
We know you need dry weather for exterior paint jobs. But you also need warm weather. Ideally, you want the temperature to stay between 20-27 C. Anything warmer and the paint will dry too fast and not cure properly, making it look uneven.
The right preparation is key for any job. When painting wood exteriors that means scraping it, sanding it and priming it. Some people want to skip over priming. But if you don't prime, you're not sealing your wood against moisture. The result? A bad job.
Follow through and do it right. Otherwise, you're wasting your time and money.
Painting interiors
Whether you're painting indoors or outdoors, adhesion is the most important thing. If you're painting inside you want to make sure the paint sticks to the wall. How do we do this? By preparing the surface and making sure it's clean. If there's grease, dirt or dust on the wall the paint won't stick. Read the paint label. It will tell you what products you can use to clean the surface to be painted that won't affect the quality of the paint.
You should also take the time to fix any flaws in your drywall, plaster or trim. That includes holes, cracks or chips. If you're using compound to fill anything in, sand the surface down a bit before applying the compound. That extra grit will help grab the compound. Same goes for painting. Do you want to sand the entire surface you're painting? Well, if you're looking for a quick job this ain't it. That's why we prime. Go figure.
Priming is important inside and out. Not only does it seal the surface, which we need, but it also gives us the right texture for the paint to stick. What kind of primer should you use? It depends on the type of paint you're using. No matter what, your paint and primer need to be compatible. If not, you'll end up with an ugly breakup all over your walls.
There's so much choice when it comes to different types of paint. Your best bet is to talk to a pro and tell them about your job and what you need. Nowadays, most paints for interior use are safe, even for pregnant woman. But as a rule of thumb I try to use water-based or latex paints, even outdoors, that are GreenSeal. This makes sure there's less off-gassing and fumes.
No matter how big or small your project, do it right the first time. If you're going to sacrifice a weekend, make it worth your effort.
-- Postmedia News
Catch Mike in his new series, Holmes Inspection, airing Thursdays at 8 p.m. ET/PT on HGTV. For more information, visit www.hgtv.ca . For more information on home renovations, visit makeitright.ca .
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Stain on cardigan need not be permanent
QUESTION: I marked my white cardigan with a blue permanent marker. You said once before to use bug repellent to remove marker but I had already used a stain remover and then rinsed in cold water. Is it too late to try bug repellent? Should I hang the cardigan in the sun, would that help? Betty (Blumenort, Man.)
ANSWER: Sunlight will not help such a prominent and permanent stain. Spray the area with bug repellent and blot with water until marker is gone. A nurse recently told me she uses waterless hand cleaner to get permanent marker out of fabric. Other possible solutions: Mr. Clean original cleaner, hairspray, rubbing alcohol, WD-40, Sunlight laundry bar soap or soak the stain overnight in paint thinner and wash. Repeat as necessary.
QUESTION: We bought an old camper. The previous owners used mothballs inside. As a result, all of the foam mattresses smell like mothballs. I washed everything and have left the windows open and placed a raw onion inside. I washed the camper with Mr. Clean and Comet. What can I do to get rid of the mothball smell in the mattresses? I've had them outside for about two weeks. Thanks for your help. Jean (Lac du Bonnet, Man.)
ANSWER: When you're desperate, you're desperate and mothballs are one of those odours that can linger for years. Instead of temporarily covering the smell with air freshener sprays, you need to kill it. Vodka neutralizes most odours on contact and then evaporates. Pour vodka into a spray bottle and proceed to spray the smelly areas within the mattress. If you do not want to use vodka, make a solution of 50/50 ammonia and water. Spray the mattress liberally. Air dry. After the mattress is dry, sprinkle with baking soda. Leave for a day and vacuum.
QUESTION: What is liquid smoke used for? Mannie, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You may have seen recipes that call for liquid smoke. The purpose of it is to impart barbeque or smoky flavour into food. This product is sometimes used by people who do not have a charcoal grill but enjoy smoky flavour. Many liquid smokes are all natural and they can be used safely. Some people use it in sauces such as barbeque sauce, stews and marinades. Other people find it has a chemical flavour and prefer not to use it.
Feedback from Manitoba readers:
I read your column, as I do every week, and noticed the question form Ingrid in Minnesota. The black goo that fell on her carpet is 'oil' from the faulty ballast. Old ballasts used to contain PCBs and that is why nobody will touch it. She will probably have to remove the carpet or call a hazardous waste company. Her electrician should have known better and should have prepared the work area to prevent the spill from getting on the floor.
From the US EPA website...
Do my fluorescent light ballasts contain PCBs?
-- Ballasts manufactured through 1979 may contain PCBs.
-- Ballasts manufactured between 1979 and 1998 that do not contain PCBs should be labelled "No PCBs." If a ballast is not labelled "No PCBs," it is best to assume it contains PCBs.
Hope it works out for her. Keep up the good work. Kevin, Winnipeg
Hey Reena,
After reading the subject article in Saturday's Free Press, I have a couple of comments that may help:
1. "It sounds as though all of the glass was cleaned up." There is no mention of broken glass in Ingrid's question.
2. The "electrician" Ingrid called was most likely not a licensed electrician, as any journeyman electrician has most likely changed a lot of ballasts from the time they were a new apprentice. They are also skilled at changing ballasts without dropping the goop onto the floor or anywhere else.
3. The "Black Goop" is tar insulation that almost all ballasts have inside. The reason ballasts need to be replaced is they leak and stop functioning.
4. Get a qualified carpet cleaner, tell them it is tar based, and they will be able to remove most of the stain.
Hope this helps. Glockenfeather Nosetweak, a.k.a. Big Bird
Fantastic Tip of the Week:
Looking for a healthy snack? Try homemade salsa. Salsa does not need to be cooked, however uncooked salsa has more of a bite. If you choose not to cook salsa, you may want to caramelize the onions before adding them to your salsa.
In a blender combine: 4 chopped Roma tomatoes, 1 small onion, 3 sprigs of cilantro, 2 Jalape±o peppers, 2 garlic cloves, juice of 2 limes and half tsp. salt. Blend until the desired texture is reached. If you choose to cook salsa, allow it to simmer for 15-30 minutes until the thickness is appealing to you.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Painting need not be brush with disaster
Here are some specialized tools that can help take the sting out of painting:
Belt bucket: Attaching around the painter's waist, the Belt Bucket keeps paint handy and hands free. This is an ideal solution for any painting that requires ladders. Removable liners make it easy to switch paints, as well as simplifying clean up. They feature snap-on lids, which make it possible to store and save paint for later.
Best of all, because the paint is secured around your waist, there are no more aching arms and wrists from holding a bucket, or sore backs from leaning down to dip the brush in a tray or bucket on the floor. www.thebeltbucket.com
Golden Touch microfibre roller: Created with a microfibre fabric blend, the Golden Touch roller by Simms cuts down splatter and lint. The durable, plastic core rollers are easy to wash, and are available in sizes ranging from six to 29 mm -- each made for use with specific types of paints. www.tssimms.com
Quick painter: The Homeright Quick Painter fills directly from the paint can, and holds enough paint to trim up to 50 linear feet with one fill. Just push the trigger and paint the wall. The Quick Painter eliminates the need to carry around buckets or constantly dip and wipe brushes. And the replaceable three-inch pad provides smooth, even results. www.homeright.com
-- Postmedia News
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Water from walls a miserable mystery
QUESTION: We moved to Winnipeg six years ago and our home was only six years old at the time of purchase, so we thought we would be free of major problems for at least a decade.
Despite the age of the home, we had a home inspection because we raised concerns over soffits that were stuccoed. The home inspector dismissed our concerns stating he didn't know why it was done but many homes in Winnipeg shared this "look."
The inspection was done before the past owners vacated the house so we did not notice some "issues" until we moved in. The first issue was rust stains on the master bedroom carpet along the perimeter of the room where their bedroom furniture had been. However, our real concerns came when we decided to take up the carpets on the main floor to replace with laminate. It was during this time we first noticed the water pouring out from our walls onto the subfloor of all our bedrooms.
The following spring we had a security system installed and the contractor pulled soaking-wet insulation from under the window in the master bedroom. We held back on finishing that floor for another winter to see what would happen. Around February, we began to see water seeping under the wall again and from the kitchen window trim and all of the other rooms where we had not yet installed baseboards.
We have been trying to find a solution for three years now, or at least a solution we can afford. We have talked to roofers and other contractors. I don't want to pay for someone to remove my roof because they "think" that may be the problem. We have talked to professionals who admit they don't know why our walls leak water, they don't know why our roof has ice dams every winter, and they don't know why our soffits are stuccoed. We've had some tell us to add more ventilation, which we did.
In order to mitigate our damage each spring, my husband goes up on the roof and spends days taking the ice off the roof. It just should not be this way. We have vaulted ceilings but we don't have scissor trusses. The truss seems to just be a collar-tie truss and we are not sure if there is a bottom chord. There is insulation blown between the vaulted ceiling and the roof. We do not see a ventilation channel along the underside of the roofing material, and we have stuccoed soffits.
This house has just brought us so much stress and unhappiness. We are simply overwhelmed by the situation. If you could please advise us, we want to heal our broken hearts here in Winnipeg and fix our broken home.
-- Anita
ANSWER: While it's unusual for a home of that age to have major problems such as what you are experiencing, it's obviously due to original defects in the construction. It may be difficult to fully identify the specific cause of the moisture problems without major dismantling of the exterior walls or roof system, but I will offer some likely possibilities.
It can be difficult to identify moisture-intrusion issues during a typical pre-purchase inspection if there is excessive storage or furniture, but there may be other red flags that hint at a problem.
While your inspector may not have been able to detect the moisture in the floor or walls if the inspection was done during dry, warm weather, dismissing an unusual item like stuccoed soffits as normal is ridiculous. Most newer homes have perforated metal soffits and I cannot ever remember seeing a home built in the last 25 years that had stucco on the soffits. In fact, this "look" is normally only seen on homes that are over 60 years old, and there are not many of those around that have not been updated.
This issue would have been a huge red flag for any experienced professional and I suspect you were unlucky in your selection of "inspector."
In most of the country, the home-inspection industry remains a self-regulating entity with no mandatory requirements or regulations. Anyone can still print some business cards, post a website and present themselves as an experienced inspector.
To make matters worse, there are some shady inspection "associations" that have only a handful of local inspectors who have limited or no training or educational requirements. The most notorious of these groups is actually a private company owned by one person in the U.S. that provides "certification" to any person that can pass an un-proctored, online 30-minute quiz.
They have recently developed a "Master Certification" that does not even require the "exam," but only a signed affidavit that the applicant has been performing inspections for more than three years and a one-time payment of about $1,000. There are no ongoing educational requirements, exams or other criteria to obtain this lifetime credential.
The only legitimate certification in Manitoba is Registered Home Inspector, which is the highest membership level of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors (CAHPI). The RHI designation is recognized by numerous stakeholders in the real estate industry across the country, including the governments of B.C. and Alberta, the only two provinces to license inspectors.
I would doubt the person who dismissed your concerns over the stuccoed soffits had any affiliation with CAHPI-MB.
As stated above, water pouring in through the walls or floors of newly built homes can only be due to a major defect in the design or construction of the "building envelope." Because of the vaulted-ceiling design and your description, it's my guess the builder has improperly insulated and air-sealed this area.
The stuccoed soffits also suggest missing or limited ventilation to provide adequate air flow for this roof system. The water is likely the result of melting frost due to condensation in the insulation, but could also be due to a defect in the window or exterior-wall component installation.
An experienced RHI would have been able to notice the insulation/ventilation deficiencies and identified them during a typical pre-purchase home inspection. Hiring an RHI, or an experienced building envelope specialist, before contracting any major repairs is my best advice for ending your woes.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca .
trainedeye@iname.com
