Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Remediation to movement issues depends on extent of movement
QUESTION: I have inherited a 65-year-old storey-and-a-half home in old Tuxedo from my parents. The master bedroom was originally an attached garage and about 30 years ago the slab the master bedroom sits on subsided enough the roof line could be seen to slant away from the rest of the house. My parents opted for piles to support and level the slab, which stabilized, although in hindsight a wiser choice might have been mud-jacking.
The problem I now face is that the rest of the house is apparently moving. There is evidence of tension between the master bedroom and the rest of the house in the form of severe cracking of the plaster in the common wall between the master bedroom and the main part of the house.
Also, the outside wall of the master bedroom perpendicular to the common wall has large cracks. My parents did not pile the entire home, as the cost was judged to be prohibitive.
I am writing to ask if you would recommend screw piles to support the main part of the house, assuming my analysis of the structural problem is correct. I have read that screw piles are less disruptive to install, and more economical than conventional piling.
Thanks. W. Brown
ANSWER: The remediation to the movement issues with your inherited home will often depend on the extent of the movement. If the addition and main house have separated to the point where a fairly large gap is seen in the interior or exterior walls, then further structural stabilization may be needed. If the only real result of the movement is cracks in the plaster in the interior walls, less costly and disruptive repairs may suffice.
First, get a professional structural engineer or a very experienced home inspector to do a proper assessment of the movement of the home. While a home inspector may only do a visual evaluation of the defects, recommendations may be made for further evaluation, which means calling in the structural engineer.
There are not very many professional engineers who want to take the time to evaluate residential homes -- they're usually busy enough with commercial work. For this reason, the Association of Professional Engineers and Geoscientists of the Province of Manitoba (APEGM) approached the Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors (CAHPI-MB) several years ago to discuss the matter. The result of this was a written agreement that outlines recommendations for homeowners with structural issues.
The agreement recommends CAHPI-MB members be initially consulted by residential homeowners when foundation or structural concerns arise. If significant structural concerns are seen during that visual inspection, the CAHPI inspector is then directed to refer the homeowner to more elaborate services by a professional engineer or geoscientist.
This recognizes home inspectors may be better suited to take a first look at home defects because of their specialized skills and the large number of properties they inspect annually. If an inspector feels there is a serious structural defect, the engineer then knows their time and expertise is warranted.
If a structural engineer is recommended and consulted, measurements can be taken and other engineering performed to evaluate your situation. From there, the engineer can determine the best course of action, if any, for your home. As you suggest, this may include recommending underpinning the entire home with poured-concrete piers, commonly called piles, or other actions to minimize the movement. If the problems are less severe, or it's decided complete underpinning is too costly or inappropriate, alternative repairs may be recommended.
Specific details, as well as structural drawings if required, can be completed by the engineer to help you when hiring a contractor to do the repairs.
As far as auger-style supports are concerned, I doubt that would be recommended. These devices are an excellent choice for moderate-cost support of small additions, porches or decks, but are not normally used for entire concrete foundations. There may be industrial-sized types of these available, but cost and installation would likely be similar to conventional concrete piers. You may be correct that they might be less invasive, but either method would require some exterior excavation outside the foundation or partial removal of the basement floor slab to access the footing to be supported.
Hopefully, the movement you're seeing is not as severe as you think, and the problem can be managed with less invasive and costly repairs.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Finishing touch
Ground covers perform many functions in the landscape: defining property lines and spaces within the garden, replacing lawns and stabilizing banks.
The appropriate use of hardy ground-cover plants will help you achieve a finished look in landscape plantings, reduce weed problems and draw attention to landscape features.
We usually think of ground covers as low-growing plants such as creeping phlox, lily of the valley and horizontal junipers, but if we allow our imagination some latitude, we can see many taller plants can also perform these functions. Common snowberry can be used to cover and stabilize banks, dwarf evergreens such as cliff green or Japanese spurge can fill narrow spaces that are difficult to maintain, and heartleaf bergenia or daylilies can be used to define space within a yard.
Few ground covers tolerate foot traffic in the way lawn grass does. However, there are a number that will stand up to some traffic and are quite suited to planting between stepping stones or paving blocks. Pussytoes, whitlowort, creeping speedwell and thyme cultivars all thrive among a stone pathway.
Many other plants will form a dense cover that can replace lawns in areas that are difficult to mow or, because of shade, competition or harsh growing conditions, do not grow quality turf. Bearberry, Canadian wild ginger and Siberian barren strawberry all form dense cover under trees where shade limits the growth of grass. Siberian barren strawberry does equally well in sunny locations.
Other plants that thrive in full sun include rock cress, perennial alyssum, snow-in-summer, wild strawberry, sedum, hen and chicks and comb speedwell.
Taller plants such as Karl Foerster feather reed grass, dwarf bush honeysuckle, Turkestan burning bush or Joe Pye weed can be used to outline paths or fill corners and define spaces within the garden. These and others such as junipers, sumac, currants and gooseberries, roses and false spirea make effective barriers to prevent foot traffic where it is not wanted.
Ground covers can serve either to unify a planting or to divide areas within the landscape. Under planting shrubs with lady's mantle, snow-in-summer or periwinkle will unify a planting. Choose plants for foliage form and colour and flowers that complement the shrubs under which they are planted. Meadowsweet, bigroot geranium, false sunflower, shrubby potentilla or dwarf spirea can be used to separate areas or "rooms" in the landscape or to define property lines.
Ground covers cover ground in a number of ways. Some self-seed, but most spread underground by suckers or above ground by stolons. Suckering plants send up shoots from underground roots or stems called rhizomes.
Hostas, lungworts and blue grama grass produce short rhizomes that give a dense clumped appearance. Others spread by above-ground stolons and produce new plants at nodes. The most common example would be strawberries -- another is the dwarf Turkestan burning bush. Some ground covers such as creeping juniper and mountain avens root along creeping stems and spread to effectively hold soil.
A ground-cover planting will be more effective and easier to maintain if you plant enough plants to produce dense growth within a year. Once plants have covered the ground, most seeds will be suppressed and maintenance will be less onerous.
Preparation of the site is key to successful establishment. All vegetation should be removed with special care to eliminate perennial weeds such as Canada thistle and dandelions as they are difficult to control later. Evaluate the soil for suitability and fertility. If drainage improvements are required, do the grading. Adding organic matter will improve the tilth and fertility of the soil.
Once you have prepared the site, calculate the number of plants needed based on your desired spacing. Once you've chosen the variety or varieties and calculated the number needed, you're ready to visit nurseries or check catalogues to locate the plants. These may be purchased container-grown, bare root or plugs. If you're planting a large number, it may be more economical to buy bare-root plants in the spring or small plants grown in plugs.
If the cost exceeds your budget, most ground-cover plants are easily propagated. You can separate sucker shoots, divide clumps or produce new plants by layering branches. Some perennials will start easily from cuttings taken before flowering.
Newly planted ground covers benefit from mulching with organic materials. Mulch helps to control weeds and conserve moisture. Pruning young plants encourages branching and produces denser cover. Maintaining adequate fertility increases the success of plantings. Heavy clay soils retain nutrients well and usually provide sufficient nutrients with periodic additions of compost and organic mulch. Sandier soils hold nutrients poorly and benefit from the addition of slow-release fertilizer each spring.
Once ground-cover plants are well-established, they will shade the soil and greatly reduce germination of weed seeds. But until that time, hand-weeding is necessary. In areas that are difficult to weed, use plants that are allelopathic (prevent the growth of other plants) such as blue fescue grass or pussy toes or those that quickly produce dense cover.
To avoid insect and disease problems, choose plants that are resistant to common insect and disease problems. Most insects and diseases can be controlled by maintaining plants in a healthy condition, encouraging natural predators and parasites and occasionally hand-picking larger insects or syringing with a strong stream of cold water to dislodge small insects such as aphids.
Choice and establishment of appropriate ground-cover plants can solve a number of your gardening problems while lending a more finished look to your landscape.
Ground covers for dry, shady areas:
bunchberry
bigroot perennial geranium
creeping forget-me-not
dwarf Turkestan burning bush
pearly everlasting
Siberian barren strawberry
star-flowered Solomon's seal
Western Canada violet
wild sarsaparilla
Ground covers for dry, sunny areas:
yarrow
pussytoes
rock cress
silver sage
perennial alyssum
Dianthus spp.
blue fescue
sedum, stonecrop
speedwell, veronica
campanula
creeping juniper
wild strawberry,
woolly lamb's ears
Colleen Zacharias
Mixing it up
GARDENS take on a lush, mature look when all available space is planted with a mix of plants of different heights and textures.
Ground covers add the finishing touch to the perennial bed -- edging pathways, spilling over retaining walls, or blanketing problem areas such as the ground beneath evergreens where only the most determined plants will grow.
Lamium, for example, can be a very useful ground cover but can also be an aggressive spreader. Aureum is a less invasive variety and adds brilliant chartreuse colour and clusters of rose purple flowers to shady borders. A favourite of mine for brightening up shady borders is Majesty lungwort, which features unique silver-coloured leaves and rich, deep blue funnel-shaped flowers in early spring.
Hugh Skinner, today's contributor, is co-author with Sara Williams of Best Groundcovers & Vines for the Prairies, an indispensable guide that lists ground covers for all applications -- from full sun to moist, dry shade, including slopes and banks. Hugh is president of the Manitoba Horticultural Association and maintains a large collection of plants in the Frank Skinner Arboretum in Roblin.
colleen.zacharias@gardensmanitoba.com
Renovation & Design
Odour from laundry room hard to pinpoint
QUESTION: Please end this torment. I am troubled with a laundry-room odour that I can't successfully eliminate and it emanates from my washer. I tried running vinegar through the machine as well as filling the drum and surrounding tub with a bleach/water solution and letting it sit for several days. No luck.
My research promotes the ideas that the outside of the drum is the problem or fetid water that doesn't properly drain. I'm wondering if the hoses could be the culprit. I hesitate to replace the hoses if they aren't the problem.
The machine is an older-model top-loader that has given me excellent service for many years. There are just two of us in the household so we only use the washer for one load per week. When the machine is idle, the lid always remains open. Even with the smell, the clothes come out clean. No other water source in the house has this difficulty.
Could the drain pipe on the wall be guilty? Any suggestions you have would be appreciated very much. The laundry room is on the main floor and getting harder to ignore. Thank you. Sharon, Winnipeg
ANSWER: This is a common challenge with washing machines. Often the doors to the machines are tightly sealed and moisture has no chance of escaping between uses. Thus, mould forms under the seal and within the mechanics of the machine.
It's true that you should keep the door open when the machine is not in use so that moisture can escape. You can continue to run one cup of vinegar and a half-cup of baking soda through the machine once a week to kill odours. Also, stop (if you are) using liquid fabric softeners-- these tend to build up in the machine and produce mould.
As well, lift the seal and clean underneath with a paste of three per cent hydrogen peroxide and borax or toothpaste and an old toothbrush. You will be amazed at the build-up. Another favourite product for getting rid of the smell of musty machines is washing soda -- you can find this in the laundry department of grocery stores. It is called So Clean, by Arm and Hammer. This product is amazing at whitening and brightening fabrics. I like to add one-quarter cup to each load of laundry when I wash whites (it contains no bleaches or phosphates).
Both borax and washing soda are great for zapping odours. Also take out your detergent drawer and clean any mildew with three per cent hydrogen peroxide, baking soda and water.
If the problem remains, there may be a more serious problem such as a clogged hose or faulty or worn out machine parts. This requires snaking the machine and using hot water and chemicals to free any clogs.
QUESTION: We have a deep fryer that works great but the outside of the fryer is marked up with oil dripping that will not come off. What solution do you recommend for this problem? Best regards. Larry, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You can either purchase a branded degreaser to clean the exterior of your deep fryer or smother the outside with a paste of baking soda and vinegar. Leave for 15 minutes and scrub with an abrasive non-scratching pad. Rinse and wipe dry. Some people have great results by cleaning the outside of the fryer with oven cleaner. Test on an inconspicuous area first.
QUESTION: I have a problem that I haven't seen in your column. My kitchen has inexpensive white peel-and-stick tiles installed by the previous owner. Unfortunately, some of the tiles have turned yellow. Do you know of any way to get them white again? The best solution would be a new floor but that doesn't fit into my budget at this time. Thanks. Cheryl, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Many people have found pouring three per cent hydrogen peroxide onto the floor everyday for three days is helpful. Other people have had great success by combining one-quarter cup OxyClean with one gallon boiling water and pouring the solution onto the area. Another solution is Clorox, but some say this application removes the floor's finish and shine. Lastly, mineral spirits is a treatment that people have told me worked for them. If the floor remains yellow, replacing the tiles is your best option.
QUESTION: What is the difference between linguine and fettuccine? What kind of sauce would you use on linguine? Thanks, Janet (Gimli, Man.)
ANSWER: Fettuccine is wider and flat, while linguine is more like spaghetti but square instead of round. Each pasta shape is designed to hold the sauce differently. The name linguine actually comes from the Italian language meaning, "little tongues." This pasta pairs well with seafood (i.e. clam, shrimp etc.) sauces because its flat shape allows the sauce to stay on the noodle easily. From white sauces to tomato or wine sauces, linguine is a versatile noodle and can be substituted for spaghetti noodles. For simpler meals, linguine noodles can also be paired with butter, parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.
Zesty tips of the week:
-- Need to liven up a fruit salad? Combine orange juice with sour cream, add grated orange rind. Pour over fruit salad.
-- Help lemons last longer. Sprinkle lemons with water and place them in a plastic bag. They will last one month or longer.
-- Sprinkle lemon juice onto freshly cut fruit so that it does not darken.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org . You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0
