Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Hundreds of millions in bad-drywall settlement
NEW ORLEANS -- A Chinese drywall manufacturer has agreed to pay hundreds of millions of dollars to resolve court claims by thousands of Gulf Coast property owners who say the product corroded pipes and wires and otherwise wrecked their homes, the largest settlement of its kind so far.
The deal announced Thursday by U.S. District Judge Eldon Fallon calls for Knauf Plasterboard Tianjin Co. to create an uncapped fund to pay for repairing roughly 4,500 properties, mostly in Florida, Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama. A separate fund capped at $30 million will pay for other types of losses, including those by people who blame drywall for health problems.
Russ Herman, a lead attorney for the plaintiffs, said the settlement is worth between $800 million and $1 billion, although an attorney for the Chinese company disputed that estimate.
Chinese drywall was used in the construction of thousands of homes, mainly in the South, after a series of destructive hurricanes in 2005 and before the housing bubble burst. The problems it has caused range from a foul odour to corrosion of pipes and wiring.
Steven Roberts, a plaintiff who built a home in Boynton Beach, Fla., said the first sign of trouble was a foul odour that smelled like "bitter sulfur." His family didn't suspect a more serious problem until electrical appliances started failing and corrosion formed on mirrors and bathroom fixtures.
-- The Associated Press
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Location of smell key to finding odour cause
QUESTION: I have been a homeowner for the last five years. We own a 22-year-old bungalow. My laundry room is on the main floor inside the kitchen. Our main washroom is adjacent to the laundry room and we have another bathroom in our master bedroom.
Since last February we have been getting a foul smell inside our master bedroom washroom and laundry whenever the washer is on. We asked a handyman for the reason and he said sometimes when the roof is covered with snow there is a chance that the vent will be closed, which sometime causes this problem.
Once the snow melted we stopped getting this foul smell for a few weeks. But this summer we started getting the smell again whenever we open the tap in the washroom or when the washer is on. I have a feeling that it's getting worse. The last little while the smell is always there in the laundry room even if the washer is not on.
Do you have any idea what the reason for the smell can be? Who will be the right person to detect this problem? If you can give me some advice it will be great.
Thanks. Bindu Menon
ANSWER: Odour detection is sometimes a very difficult thing to assess in a home due to the numerous possibilities. In your case there may be a limited number of causes, making diagnosis much easier. The location of the smell is the key and it should be fairly easy to narrow down the culprit.
Anytime a homeowner detects a bad smell in an area that has plumbing fixtures, the drains are the first suspect area to investigate. Sewer gas emanating from drains can be the source of very foul odours and is likely due to a problem with the drains or vents.
Your handyman is correct that a frozen or blocked vent on the roof is often a cause of such a problem. If the top of the vent becomes blocked by ice, snow, or leaves, the normal exit for noxious vapours may become ineffective. These gasses will still try to escape the vent pipes and may be forced through normally effective traps and drains inside the home. The water in the trap is designed to prevent this gas from permeating the living space, but will not work if the top of the vent piping is plugged.
Problems with plumbing drains are the most likely cause or your issue, but may not be limited to blockage in the vent. Too many times, especially in areas like laundry drains, traps and vents are configured improperly or missing altogether.
This should be easily checked by a licensed plumber who should be able to determine if you have an improper setup that is causing sewer gas to enter your bathroom and laundry area. This is another strong possibility because a lack of proper venting for your laundry drain can cause air to be sucked into the piping through the bathroom sink drain if it is attached to the same pipe. That could explain why you are noticing the smell in the bathroom mainly when you are operating your washer.
The flaw in this theory is that you haven't noticed the odour in the first four years in the home, which makes improper drain configuration less likely. Conversely, this becomes a stronger candidate if you have recently had any plumbing fixture renovations in the adjacent bathroom or kitchen or the laundry has been relocated to the current location from the original one.
When attempting to diagnose a problem that has recently occurred within a home, I first enquire about recent changes or renovations in the home. It's very common to see problems arise after renovations are completed. This is normally because something critical was overlooked by the renovators when systems in the home were modified or removed.
If you have had any recent upgrades to the bathrooms or kitchens, it's likely that the renovators have screwed up previously effective venting from your laundry or sinks. This may also be identified by an experienced plumber but may be harder if the new drain connections are hidden behind wall coverings or cabinets.
Your initial course of action, then, is to have a plumber take a look at your existing drains and roof vents, and pull out the washer to look for blockage.
The second possibility for the smell is less common, but would answer why it's now more constant rather than intermittent. Many homeowners connect dryers to low-quality plastic or flexible aluminum-foil vents. These thin pipes are often very problematic due to the same properties that make them easy to install. To allow easy installation and flexibility, these ducts have very thin walls that are easily punctured. Also, to make their thin walls more rigid, metal ribs are embedded which have a tendency to collect dryer lint like a magnet.
This lint will constantly become damp from the warm, moist air pumped out of the dryer. If the volume becomes excessive and blocks the vent, it can become mouldy and will smell. Even worse is the possibility that pests such as insects or mice can enter these partially blocked pipes if the vent hood at the exterior is damaged or forced partially open by debris. If a dead mouse or wasp nest is trapped inside the dryer-vent pipe, or inside the home or dryer housing, it will stink.
This should be easily identified by pulling out the dryer, disconnecting the vent and checking the duct from the interior and exterior of the home with a flashlight. If this is the problem, removal and discarding the old duct and replacing it with a solid metal one will prevent a reoccurrence.
Whichever of these two possible causes are responsible for your stinky laundry and bathroom areas, they should be easily rectified. If a licensed plumber can't identify the source of the issue and the dryer vent is found to be in good condition, then further investigation may be necessary, but that's unlikely.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Teapot colour got you steamed? Try vinegar
QUESTION: The inside of my teapot is quite brown. I have tried various solutions to get it white to no avail. Is there something that will help me get this clean? Stan, Portage la Prairie
ANSWER: All you need to do (I did this today) is pour white vinegar into the teapot about one-quarter full. Fill the rest with water. Boil for five minutes. Let sit and pour down the drain. Works great!
QUESTION: What is the best toilet paper to buy to get the greatest bang for my money? My husband uses so much toilet paper; what a waste! Erma, Emerson
ANSWER: While soft toilet paper is most comfortable to use, the drawback is that it is often hard on the environment. Generic brands and some recycled toilet papers cost less because, like many no-name items, less is spent on advertising and products are sometimes made with factory scraps.
Do your research and check the package to see how much toilet paper is included on each role. Don't be fooled into thinking that just because something is generic, it is the better buy. Look for coupons and read the label to see the length of toilet paper on every roll, because the last thing you want to do is flush your hard-earned money down the toilet.
QUESTION: I am looking to purchase a real Christmas tree once again this year. Last year the needles kept getting stuck in my carpet. What is your solution for this problem? Tom, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You always want to protect your carpet as much as possible, not only from falling needles but also tree sap, soil and water. Either purchase or make a tree skirt. Or buy a Christmas tablecloth and lay it under and over the tree stand. Substitute tree skirts with one of the following: Scrap carpet, a large piece of fabric, garbage bags or old drapery. Choosing any style of tree skirt protects the carpet while hiding the tree stand.
Here is an idea for the whole family: Make or purchase a solid coloured, fabric tree skirt. Using fabric paint, have all family members press handprints onto the skirt. Use a squeeze bottle of paint to write names and dates under each hand.
QUESTION: I have lots of beeswax candles and I love the smell of them. What is the best way to use them so that they smell up the entire house? Cornie, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Beeswax candles are not overpowering like many of the highly over-fragranced candles on the market today. Position a few beeswax candles in rooms throughout your home and once lit, enjoy the warm honey fragrance.
Beeswax candles set away from drafts are smokeless, drip less and burn about five times loner than paraffin candles. They are considered hypoallergenic and recommended for people suffering from asthma and chemical sensitivity. Note: Never leave a lit candle unattended. Protect surfaces by setting candles in proper holders.
Wonderful Feedback from Caring Manitoban:
Dear Reena,
With regards to refreshing black clothes: No one knows why this works but it really does. Brew a pot of coffee. Add to a black load with detergent and proceed as usual. Everything will turn out clean and darkened. Thelma, Winnipeg
Fabulous Rescue Tips of the Week:
-- Remove the taste of slightly burnt milk by adding a pinch of salt or sugar to the pot.
-- Next time you burn soup, spaghetti sauce or beans, add a spoonful of peanut butter to the pot to take away the burnt taste.
-- To fix salty ham, soak slices in milk for 15 to 20 minutes.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Pet fur a magnet? There is help for tops
QUESTION: I love my polar fleece tops and jackets, but they are such magnets for hair and pet fur. The hair/fur stays on the garments even after laundering. Can you suggest some kind of laundry product or method to solve my problem? I don't use commercial laundry softeners in either the washer or dryer, as I am sensitive to smell. Kathy, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You are not alone, Kathy. Many pet-owners refuse to purchase fleece solely because of this challenge. Lint brushes, masking tape and lint rollers are not overly effective because fur becomes imbedded in the fleece fibres. Unfortunately fabric softener in the washer is your best defence against cling-on fur. Of course, vinegar is a wonderful alternative to commercial softeners; use about one cup per load.
QUESTION: We have the Household Solutions book series, but it is in Winnipeg and we are in Mazatlan for the winter. We have Plumbago in our courtyard, a blue-flowered plant which is used in dyes. They are sticky, and a flower got on my pants and then I sat on our cotton fabric couch. We now have a blue mark the shape of the flower right in the middle of a white area.
We have taken the cover off so we can wash it, but don't know the best thing to use. Right now we have toothpaste on it but thought we would ask you. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. Ingrid and Frank, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Unfortunately, toothpaste won't cut it because the fibres are permanently dyed as opposed to surface dyed. The great news is that the cover is washable. If you are fine with lightening the entire couch cover, then purchase dye remover or Iron Out and use it according to the directions on the package. This is easy to find at most craft stores. If you only want to lighten one particular area, then remove the couch cover and soak the area with three-per-cent hydrogen peroxide on the blue spot. Wash and repeat this process until stain is gone. Paint thinner is one other option for direct treatment on the flower mark. Enjoy Mexico!
QUESTION: I have a copper chafing dish which is badly tarnished; do you have a suggestion on how to clean it? Pat, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The following hints are effective for cleaning copper: Sprinkle salt on a wet sponge and wipe. Or mix lemon juice and baking soda together. Rub with an old toothbrush. Another option is to smear copper with either ketchup or WD-40, wait 10 minutes and polish.
QUESTION: I want to have a cupcake-making party for my daughter's ninth birthday party. How much batter do I need for 24 cupcakes? Dwayne, Garson, Man.
ANSWER: If you make enough batter for a double layer cake, you will have batter for 24 cupcakes. Fill each muffin liner two-thirds full. If you want to make cupcakes ahead of time, you can freeze unfrosted cupcakes for up to two months.
Did you know the first cupcakes did not have frosting, but instead were topped with lard as a kind of cake-moistening gravy? Winston Churchill was the first person to suggest a kind of sweet frosting on the top of the cakes.
QUESTION: I know you have answered this before in the Free Press, but I am still struggling with this problem.
I bought a pair of burgundy-coloured jeans in Grand Forks last weekend and when I got them home, I noticed a strong chemical smell. I washed them with laundry detergent and hung them up to dry. The smell was just as strong. So next I washed them three times in white vinegar. A little improvement, but still couldn't wear them. Next, I tried borax. No change. Now I am soaking them overnight in the borax solution. Any other ideas? Thanks, Shaun, Ste. Anne.
ANSWER: The smell is a result of dyes and chemicals used in manufacturing the jeans. Soak them in Coca-Cola for a few hours. Wash as usual. In any case, the odour will fade over time as you continue to wash and wear them.
Wonderful Feedback from Caring Manitoban:
Dear Reena,
With regards to your tip about cleaning pots, I want to tell you that a handful of rhubarb (available in the frozen-food section in the winter) does a great job of cleaning a blackened pot (voice of experience). PS: When preparing rhubarb, if you bake it instead of boiling it, the rhubarb won't go mushy. Mrs. R., Winnipeg
Fabulous Tips of the Week
-- Don't dust any cleaning surface higher than your tallest friend.
-- Staying focused while cleaning is important. Set a timer for five minutes and start cleaning, when the times goes off stop cleaning and eat a huge snack to reward yourself.
-- Share the work of cleaning your house by forming a Cleaning Club. Nominate yourself president and supervise while all members clean your house.
-- Company pops over and the house is a mess, inform guests that you are in the process of reorganizing and needed to scatter stuff in every room to figure out the best place for each item.
-- Used facial tissue can be saved as extra stuffing for pillows.
-- Attach clothes to the bottom of your indoor slippers to polish your floors as you walk.
-- Toothpicks can be washed and reused up to eight times.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Avoid safety pitfalls during festive season
The holidays are around the corner, and, before you know it, people everywhere will be climbing up on their roofs, battling it out with Old Man Winter just to spread some Christmas cheer. Lights are a huge part of the holiday spirit, but it's important not to wreck your home in the process.
I'm not saying you need to be a Scrooge, but I am saying you need to protect your home. You've invested too much in maintaining a healthy exterior to compromise its integrity over a few holiday lights.
I hate doing things twice, and I'm sure many of you do, too. So before anyone starts drilling through their eavestroughs and nailing through electrical wires (I've seen it all, folks), I thought it would be helpful to give you a pep talk first.
Replace old lights. Cold weather causes the wiring in string lights to become brittle, making them vulnerable to being damaged. The chances of damaged lights/cords increases the longer they stay out during the year. That's why, before climbing up any ladder, it's important to make sure every light bulb is working and the cords aren't frayed in any area. If they are frayed or damaged, don't try repairing them -- replace them. The last thing you need this season is a fire hazard.
Do not overload circuits. Some people want their home to be the neighbourhood showstopper. But a goal like that is likely to blow out a couple of fuses -- a certain Chevy Chase Christmas movie comes to mind.
Prevent this by making sure the receptacle's/outlet's circuit is rated to handle the total amperes of all the lights you plan to use. Most sources will say not to connect more than three light strings end to end, or 300 lights, but in my experience, one rule does not fit all. Check to make sure, every time.
LEDs: I highly recommend using LED lights to anyone. They're brighter, more energy-efficient, and cause fewer fuses to burn out. LEDs mean more light for the same electrical capacity and more sparkle for your buck.
Power stakes: This is an electrical box, usually with three receptacles/outlets, that has a long cord attached to it. The box stands on a stake you drive into the ground. The purpose of a power stake is to bring the power where you need it without running a maze of cords across your yard. They're fairly inexpensive and they keep the outlets above ground. This protects them from precipitation and from being covered by snow. Most come with a circuit breaker and some models even have timers. That's smart.
But just because you have more outlets doesn't mean you have more power. Average circuits usually allow for a maximum of approximately 1,200 watts. You need to keep that in mind. Although some people think installing a power stake is a DIY project, I recommend consulting with an electrical contractor to make sure the outlet into which you plug the power stake is dedicated, meaning there are no other sources drawing power from it, and you stay within the circuit's limits.
Extension cords: Extension cords are for temporary use only. If you're going to use one, make sure it's compatible with your lights and it can hold up to the winter weather. That means the outside jacket of the extension cord needs to be rated for exterior use and the wire gauge must be rated for what you plan on plugging into the extension cord. I'd recommend at least a 14-gauge outdoor-rated extension cord.
Fasteners and clips: Anyone driving nails into cords or attaching lights with staples automatically ends up on Santa's bad list. It's a fire hazard, it damages the cords, and you can seriously harm yourself -- not a happy holiday. In fact, avoid using nails, screws and staples entirely. Why? One, they're conductors of electricity. Two, they rust. And three, they create holes in your home's exterior. Holes allow water to penetrate and eat away at the exterior. Instead, use fasteners or holders made from rubber or heavy-duty plastic, which safely grip the eavestrough or a roof's shingles without damaging them. A lower hook holds the lights/extension cord in place.
Make sure they're strong enough to handle the weight of the cords.
Window fasteners: Hanging lights to window frames using nails or staples damages them because of the holes they create. Holes in window frames allow water to penetrate into the wood, rotting it from the inside. Look for plastic or rubber fasteners with a moisture-resistant, peel-and-stick backing that can be stuck to windows. Try using ones that can hold up to 4.5 kilograms for extra security.
Working outside in the cold makes it tempting to cut corners. Get the work done before the temperatures start to really drop, and you'll be able to appreciate all your hard work from the best viewpoint: indoors with some eggnog.
-- Postmedia News
Catch Mike in his new series, Holmes Inspection, airing Thursdays at 8 p.m. ET/PT on HGTV. For more information, visit www.hgtv.ca. For more information on home renovations, visit makeitright.ca