Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Enjoy a slime-less Christmas chicken
QUESTION: Believe it or not I am beginning to plan for my Christmas company, and I would like to make breaded chicken drumsticks as part of the main course. However, every time I bake drumsticks in the oven they become caked with a dark brown slime on the outside of the chicken. How can I prevent this?
-- Pauline, Grand Beach
ANSWER: Wow, Christmas in August; you are planning ahead! The dark brown substance on the outside of the meat is dry blood. Prevent this by soaking the uncooked chicken in salted water for a few minutes before breading. More importantly, cook the chicken on a rack on top of your baking pan instead of laying the chicken directly on the pan. This will cause the drippings to fall and not stick to the meat.
QUESTION: I am getting ready to pack for a wonderful vacation, and my luggage is just so dirty! It is red and soft-sided and the outside is dusty, dirty, stained, etc. I have tried vacuuming it, using a can of upholstery shampoo, and a damp cloth, all to no avail. It almost seems a waste of time, as when it gets off the plane it will just be filthy again. Any ideas? I love your column and have recommended it to my sisters.
-- Moira, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Not sure what the fabric content or finish of your luggage is. If you have a polypropylene/cotton/or vinyl suitcase, sponge with a weak solution of laundry detergent, then dab with clean water. For soft plastic/vinyl bags, dilute glass cleaner with water and wipe over the bags. Remove stains with laundry detergent in warm water, then rinse and dry. Or mix four tablespoons of baking soda in a cup of water. Dampen a clean cloth with the solution and scrub it on the spot, being careful not to get the canvas too wet. Rinse. The easiest way to avoid luggage becoming dirty during transit is to secure it inside of a large clear recycling bag. On the other hand, well-used luggage will make you seem like a very adventurous worldly traveller. Safe travels!
QUESTION: I overcooked some rice in the microwave and the microwave filled with smoke. I cleaned it out with bleach, but there is still a strong smoke smell when I use the microwave. What can I do to get rid of this smell? Thanks.
-- Karen, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Here are a few tricks to tackle this quandary/ You can either heat lemon juice or vinegar in the microwave until it boils over and then wipe out the interior or combine into a bowl vanilla and water and heat until it boils over or another option is to combine lemon slices, vinegar, vanilla, dish soap and water in a bowl and heat. Alternatively combine and heat baking soda and water. If the odour persists, store coffee grounds in a bowl in the microwave to absorb lingering smells.
QUESTION: I used your suggestion of vinegar to make my glasses sparkle. It worked wonderfully. However, the next week I added more vinegar, but this time I included all my silverware. The result is foggy glasses and forks/knives that have a coating on them. Obviously some chemical reaction has occurred with the stainless steel. Do you have any suggestions on how I can make my silverware look shiny again? Thanks.
-- Lori, Linden, Man.
ANSWER: It sounds as though the glasses are etched; this may or may not be reversible depending on how deeply the etching has set in. Soak the glasses in hot vinegar or run citric acid through the dishwasher with the glasses inside. Both options are effective solutions on etched glass. If the etching remains, it is permanent. In terms of the cutlery, pour one quarter cup washing soda (or salt) and eight cups water into a pan lined with crumpled up aluminum foil, leave for 5-10 minutes, rinse and polish (wear gloves when working with washing soda).
Fabulous Feedback from Readers:
Dear Reena,
In your column printed on July 24, Gerry has suggested using "never-seize" on light bulb threads. I disagree for the following reasons:
1. Never-seize is a heavy metallic compound and conducts electricity quite well.
2. It liquefies when heated and unlike moisture will not burn off if it shorts out.
3. Under high temperatures it's flammable and if there's enough liquefied "never-seize" in the socket to drip, the drips continue to burn mid-air and on the ground.
Never-seize should not be used on light bulb threads as this can be very dangerous.
Dear Reena,
Thanks for the tip about toothpaste. I tried it on a tiled surface with dirty grout that has to this day resisted every cleaning solution; and it worked. I just spread the toothpaste and left it overnight, then scrubbed it with a stiff brush and rinsed. Scott
P.S. I also use chestnuts to repel spiders and find that one dish in the house is enough. No need to spread them around. Pets and kids pick them up if they are within reach. Flora
I enjoy your questions and tips. Keep them coming.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Consult independent floor contractors
QUESTION: I've been doing some renovations on our cabin and I am now starting to research flooring. I've been getting conflicting information on the best type of product to use. We've been looking at laminate flooring as hardwood has been taken off the play list as we do not heat the residence in the winter but do get down a few times.
We've been informed that taking the cabin from minus-40 to plus-20 in a matter of hours, with our oil furnace and propane fireplace, would expand the wood floors to cause possible checking or cracking.
The backing for the laminates is the main question. Some are plywood and some are almost like an MDF backer. Each manufacturer recommends their own product as being less affected by the freeze-thaw temperatures. Any information on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
-- Ken English
ANSWER: I understand and empathize with your frustrations over information presented by different flooring manufacturers on the suitability of their products for use in various situations.
I'm constantly annoyed by hardwood-flooring contractors telling homeowners in newly built homes that they have to install mechanical humidifiers on their furnaces and keep the relative humidity in their homes abnormally high, just to prevent their new flooring from shrinking. A lot of the information is too general to encompass all climates, especially our prairie urban areas or your lake country. I will try to help you wade through the weeds and choose the correct product for your situation.
One of the main things to remember when planning renovations is not to believe everything you read. There are increasing amounts of misinformation out there, much of it from poorly informed retailers or bad websites.
The best solution, no matter what type of flooring you decide upon, is to get opinions from the true guys in the field. By that I mean independent flooring contractors who have been in business for many years and have personally installed various types of flooring in situations like yours.
Large suppliers and retailers may employ clerks, estimators or salespeople who have never held a mallet or air nailer in their hands. They may not have the experience to know how something will perform after installation, especially in the long term.
Small, independent contractors know when things don't work, as they are the ones responsible for making the situation right if flooring does fail. It often comes directly out of their pocket for repairs or replacement if problems occur.
To get back to your question, some types of wood flooring may be adversely affected by temperature swings, but more likely from moisture in the humid lake conditions that exist at your cabin. Summer relative-humidity levels can hover near saturation at lake areas, which may cause problems for many types of hardwoods with tight grains and closed pores. Some of these woods are maple or birch, and may also include other very hard materials used for flooring such as red or white oak. These materials may be subject to absorption of considerable amounts of moisture in the warm summer months, and quite slow release as the weather cools.
If too much moisture is retained, it's plausible that the wood could crack or shrink excessively in the winter in temperatures below the freezing mark.
Conversely, dry hardwood flooring of this type could absorb too much moisture in the summer and swell or buckle. This would depend on many variables, including the amount of ventilation in your cabin and whether it's insulated or not.
Despite the downside of possible shrinkage of hardwood flooring, you may not have to completely rule out the use of it in your cabin. Wood, in general, is an excellent choice for seasonal homes due to the natural resiliency and adaptability to our climate and changes in temperature and humidity.
There are thousands of older cottages on prairie lakes, constructed exclusively from wood, that survive decades without major damage. As long as the wood is properly treated and protected from excessive rain and sun, it can last indefinitely. Granted, most of these cottages are constructed from softwood species that are quite open-pored and absorb and release moisture well, but not all.
Many hardwoods are more open-pored than traditional oak or maple, and finding one that would be durable enough for flooring, but breathable, may be another option.
One good choice may be fir, which is still a softwood, but quite hard and durable compared to other similar species. It may be difficult to find a good source of true Douglas Fir flooring, but I still see cottages well over half a century old with fir flooring in reasonable condition.
Much of this may be due to numerous coats of varnish or shellac, and heavy wax applied numerous times to the surface, but often it is the natural property of the wood, itself.
Other softwoods, such as pine or spruce, may work well, but are quite soft and will become easily pitted, scratched and beat up. Many people actually like the worn look of older pine, and it can be an economical choice if that is what you're looking for.
To address your primary concern, I would avoid products like laminate flooring which have a very durable surface, but questionable core. Most laminates have a fibreboard core that will swell and become damaged with high moisture levels. This can cause the flooring to come apart and render it useless, even after a few years.
Plywood core laminates may be suitable, but are more costly and may not have the long-term durability of natural wood.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Whiten yellowed ivory piano keys patiently
QUESTION: What is the best way to clean piano or organ keys? Just as a side note, my Household Solutions books arrived in the mail and I am happy to say that some of my Christmas shopping is already done. Keep up the good work. Darlene, Winnipeg
ANSWER: For general cleaning on plastic or ivory keys, use vinegar and water on a soft cloth. For ivory keys, wipe with non-gel, non-bleach toothpaste on a damp cloth. Ensure that you rub gently and do not scrub. Rinse with fresh milk and buff well. Note: Over time and with repeated cleaning, the yellow on your ivory keys can be significantly reduced. Whitening your ivory piano keys takes a long time and a great deal of patience.
Extra tidbit: If you are unsure whether your piano keys are plastic or ivory, note that piano keys that have ivory tops are made in two parts. If you look carefully, you will notice a join. Also, ivory piano keys are off-white instead of stark white. Lastly, ivory has a grain. Modern pianos have plastic keys, which do not have any grain. Be careful not to mistake ivory keys for cellulose keys. Cellulose also has a grain, but the cellulose grain is more even than ivory.
QUESTION: We have a very old (102 years) christening gown made of white cotton and lace that has been in storage for the past seven years. We now find that it has a yellow stain, probably from milk, on the front of the cotton. Because of the age of the gown, we were reluctant to tackle the stain without some professional advice.
Can you suggest a safe way to remove the stain without harming the fabric please? Thank you! Sharon, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You always want to begin with the mildest solution and use more aggressive solutions only if necessary. With this in mind, make a liquid paste of borax (or washing soda) and water. Cover the milk stain. Leave overnight and rinse in the morning.
Dear Readers,
I must share with you my dishwasher experience. Last week, my dishwasher stopped working right in the middle of a wash. It could not even muster up enough breath to complete the cycle. After inquiring of the manufacturer, I was told the dishwasher has been recalled for this exact reason (it just suddenly stops working). The dishwasher was going to be fixed at no charge within three to four weeks. Well, after two days I opened up the dishwasher and the smell punched me in the face and nearly knocked me down. I poured half a bottle of vinegar onto the floor of the dishwasher and sprinkled baking soda on top. The smell is gone and I can now breathe with a smile. King vinegar prevails once again!
Fabulous feedback from reader:
Dear Ms. Nerbas,
I read with interest your article on garage sales in the Winnipeg Free Press Saturday, June 5, 2010. I think it would have been a good idea to also suggest people make attractive signs that can be seen from some distance. I notice many signs which I cannot read as I am driving by in my car.
More importantly, however, I think you should have told people to pick up their signs as soon as the sale is over. Many people never bother to take their signs down. As a result, they sometimes blow around the neighbourhood for weeks.
Kenneth, Winnipeg
Outstanding tips of the week:
-- I don't know what I would do without nylon net -- there are so many uses for it. I tuck it in where I am likely to find spiders (around doors, the space between outside walls and concrete steps). I also secure netting inside heat vents with a rubber band and put netting between sliding windows that have drainage holes and over top of open pipes, etc. I also fold netting over the blade of my knives to prevent accidental cuts. Submitted by Erna (Gladstone, Man.)
-- If you are still using plastic grocery bags instead of recyclable bags and don't know what to do with the mountain of bags collecting in your home, the solution is easy -- donate the bags to self-help. The bags will be reused instead of wasted.
-- Scarecrows in the garden? A balloon pop is a fast way to scare those birds away, but for long-term results use a kite. Place a kite in the garden; crows will think it is a bird and fly away to bother someone else.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
