Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Consult independent floor contractors
QUESTION: I've been doing some renovations on our cabin and I am now starting to research flooring. I've been getting conflicting information on the best type of product to use. We've been looking at laminate flooring as hardwood has been taken off the play list as we do not heat the residence in the winter but do get down a few times.
We've been informed that taking the cabin from minus-40 to plus-20 in a matter of hours, with our oil furnace and propane fireplace, would expand the wood floors to cause possible checking or cracking.
The backing for the laminates is the main question. Some are plywood and some are almost like an MDF backer. Each manufacturer recommends their own product as being less affected by the freeze-thaw temperatures. Any information on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
-- Ken English
ANSWER: I understand and empathize with your frustrations over information presented by different flooring manufacturers on the suitability of their products for use in various situations.
I'm constantly annoyed by hardwood-flooring contractors telling homeowners in newly built homes that they have to install mechanical humidifiers on their furnaces and keep the relative humidity in their homes abnormally high, just to prevent their new flooring from shrinking. A lot of the information is too general to encompass all climates, especially our prairie urban areas or your lake country. I will try to help you wade through the weeds and choose the correct product for your situation.
One of the main things to remember when planning renovations is not to believe everything you read. There are increasing amounts of misinformation out there, much of it from poorly informed retailers or bad websites.
The best solution, no matter what type of flooring you decide upon, is to get opinions from the true guys in the field. By that I mean independent flooring contractors who have been in business for many years and have personally installed various types of flooring in situations like yours.
Large suppliers and retailers may employ clerks, estimators or salespeople who have never held a mallet or air nailer in their hands. They may not have the experience to know how something will perform after installation, especially in the long term.
Small, independent contractors know when things don't work, as they are the ones responsible for making the situation right if flooring does fail. It often comes directly out of their pocket for repairs or replacement if problems occur.
To get back to your question, some types of wood flooring may be adversely affected by temperature swings, but more likely from moisture in the humid lake conditions that exist at your cabin. Summer relative-humidity levels can hover near saturation at lake areas, which may cause problems for many types of hardwoods with tight grains and closed pores. Some of these woods are maple or birch, and may also include other very hard materials used for flooring such as red or white oak. These materials may be subject to absorption of considerable amounts of moisture in the warm summer months, and quite slow release as the weather cools.
If too much moisture is retained, it's plausible that the wood could crack or shrink excessively in the winter in temperatures below the freezing mark.
Conversely, dry hardwood flooring of this type could absorb too much moisture in the summer and swell or buckle. This would depend on many variables, including the amount of ventilation in your cabin and whether it's insulated or not.
Despite the downside of possible shrinkage of hardwood flooring, you may not have to completely rule out the use of it in your cabin. Wood, in general, is an excellent choice for seasonal homes due to the natural resiliency and adaptability to our climate and changes in temperature and humidity.
There are thousands of older cottages on prairie lakes, constructed exclusively from wood, that survive decades without major damage. As long as the wood is properly treated and protected from excessive rain and sun, it can last indefinitely. Granted, most of these cottages are constructed from softwood species that are quite open-pored and absorb and release moisture well, but not all.
Many hardwoods are more open-pored than traditional oak or maple, and finding one that would be durable enough for flooring, but breathable, may be another option.
One good choice may be fir, which is still a softwood, but quite hard and durable compared to other similar species. It may be difficult to find a good source of true Douglas Fir flooring, but I still see cottages well over half a century old with fir flooring in reasonable condition.
Much of this may be due to numerous coats of varnish or shellac, and heavy wax applied numerous times to the surface, but often it is the natural property of the wood, itself.
Other softwoods, such as pine or spruce, may work well, but are quite soft and will become easily pitted, scratched and beat up. Many people actually like the worn look of older pine, and it can be an economical choice if that is what you're looking for.
To address your primary concern, I would avoid products like laminate flooring which have a very durable surface, but questionable core. Most laminates have a fibreboard core that will swell and become damaged with high moisture levels. This can cause the flooring to come apart and render it useless, even after a few years.
Plywood core laminates may be suitable, but are more costly and may not have the long-term durability of natural wood.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Whiten yellowed ivory piano keys patiently
QUESTION: What is the best way to clean piano or organ keys? Just as a side note, my Household Solutions books arrived in the mail and I am happy to say that some of my Christmas shopping is already done. Keep up the good work. Darlene, Winnipeg
ANSWER: For general cleaning on plastic or ivory keys, use vinegar and water on a soft cloth. For ivory keys, wipe with non-gel, non-bleach toothpaste on a damp cloth. Ensure that you rub gently and do not scrub. Rinse with fresh milk and buff well. Note: Over time and with repeated cleaning, the yellow on your ivory keys can be significantly reduced. Whitening your ivory piano keys takes a long time and a great deal of patience.
Extra tidbit: If you are unsure whether your piano keys are plastic or ivory, note that piano keys that have ivory tops are made in two parts. If you look carefully, you will notice a join. Also, ivory piano keys are off-white instead of stark white. Lastly, ivory has a grain. Modern pianos have plastic keys, which do not have any grain. Be careful not to mistake ivory keys for cellulose keys. Cellulose also has a grain, but the cellulose grain is more even than ivory.
QUESTION: We have a very old (102 years) christening gown made of white cotton and lace that has been in storage for the past seven years. We now find that it has a yellow stain, probably from milk, on the front of the cotton. Because of the age of the gown, we were reluctant to tackle the stain without some professional advice.
Can you suggest a safe way to remove the stain without harming the fabric please? Thank you! Sharon, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You always want to begin with the mildest solution and use more aggressive solutions only if necessary. With this in mind, make a liquid paste of borax (or washing soda) and water. Cover the milk stain. Leave overnight and rinse in the morning.
Dear Readers,
I must share with you my dishwasher experience. Last week, my dishwasher stopped working right in the middle of a wash. It could not even muster up enough breath to complete the cycle. After inquiring of the manufacturer, I was told the dishwasher has been recalled for this exact reason (it just suddenly stops working). The dishwasher was going to be fixed at no charge within three to four weeks. Well, after two days I opened up the dishwasher and the smell punched me in the face and nearly knocked me down. I poured half a bottle of vinegar onto the floor of the dishwasher and sprinkled baking soda on top. The smell is gone and I can now breathe with a smile. King vinegar prevails once again!
Fabulous feedback from reader:
Dear Ms. Nerbas,
I read with interest your article on garage sales in the Winnipeg Free Press Saturday, June 5, 2010. I think it would have been a good idea to also suggest people make attractive signs that can be seen from some distance. I notice many signs which I cannot read as I am driving by in my car.
More importantly, however, I think you should have told people to pick up their signs as soon as the sale is over. Many people never bother to take their signs down. As a result, they sometimes blow around the neighbourhood for weeks.
Kenneth, Winnipeg
Outstanding tips of the week:
-- I don't know what I would do without nylon net -- there are so many uses for it. I tuck it in where I am likely to find spiders (around doors, the space between outside walls and concrete steps). I also secure netting inside heat vents with a rubber band and put netting between sliding windows that have drainage holes and over top of open pipes, etc. I also fold netting over the blade of my knives to prevent accidental cuts. Submitted by Erna (Gladstone, Man.)
-- If you are still using plastic grocery bags instead of recyclable bags and don't know what to do with the mountain of bags collecting in your home, the solution is easy -- donate the bags to self-help. The bags will be reused instead of wasted.
-- Scarecrows in the garden? A balloon pop is a fast way to scare those birds away, but for long-term results use a kite. Place a kite in the garden; crows will think it is a bird and fly away to bother someone else.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Silestone needs some conditioner for 'mistake'
QUESTION: I had Silestone countertops installed in my new house four years ago and made the big mistake, at great expense, of having them honed because I like a matte effect. Unfortunately, they show every mark and although the marks can be wiped off, the result is uneven and unsatisfactory. I have tried granite cleaner but the surface is still patchy. Is there something I can apply to provide a more overall finish? Outside of removing them I am stuck with countertops which irritate me every time I look at them! Many thanks, Sylvia, Winnipeg
ANSWER: I wouldn't call honed Silestone a mistake, however it is true that matte finish isn't quite as carefree as the polished version. Silestone recommends the use of a conditioner: "The use of a conditioner is purely temporary and will require either repeat applications to maintain a consistent lustre on the surface or thorough cleaning to remove it." Daily cleaner for honed Silestone should be a pH balanced general-purpose household cleaner such as dish soap, and water.
QUESTION: I hope you can help me with the cork floor in my kitchen. We have had the cork flooring for quite some time but lately chips have come off on some places. How can I fix this? I hope you can help me. Sincerely, Ineke (St. Andrews)
ANSWER: Cork comes from the bark of the cork oak (Quercus Suber). The bark is harvested approximately every nine years without causing any harm to the tree. As a result, cork is a truly sustainable flooring product but even the best things in life have their ups and downs. To repair the damaged floor, begin by confirming that your floors are solid cork and not veneer. Veneer cork cannot be repaired or sanded and must be replaced. To replace veneered cork, remove moulding and pry up the damaged plank andreplace with a new cork plank (you may want to call a professional to help with this). Solid cork floors can be sanded using an electric floor sander or a coarse grade sand paper wrapped around a block. Next use fine grade sand paper to smooth the area. Clean the floor as normal. Check manufacturer's finish to determine if the floor has oil or polyurethane finish. Finish by applying two coats of the correct finish (allow first coat to dry thoroughly before applying the second coat).
QUESTION: I have found your solutions so helpful. I would like to know how you can get rid of silver fish in my apartment. Lois (Portage la Prairie)
ANSWER: A mixture of two tablespoons powdered icing sugar and one cup borax spread in a few places along baseboards should do the trick to get rid of silverfish. Take caution around children and pets; borax is poisonous if ingested. It is also important to note that in order to zap silverfish permanently you will want to get rid of all excess moisture in the basement by purchasing a good quality dehumidifier. If infestation continues please contact a fumigation service.
Fabulous Tips and Feedback from readers:
-- To flatten plastic milk jugs pour about a cup of boiling water into it. Put the lid back on tightly. Shake very gently until it is all swollen and hot. Carefully take the lid off, pour out and place on the floor, handle side down. Step carefully in the middle just to push it down enough to make the ends start to collapse then move your feet one at a time to flatten each end. Keep standing, moving around a bit, until it is cool. Voila! Flat as a pancake and it stays that way so that ever-so-many can be packed side by side in a box. Joy, Winnipeg
Reena's note: Take caution; this sounds somewhat dangerous.
-- With regards to light bulbs, I like to put a bit of "Never-seize" on the threads of the base. When these were made of brass, as well as the sockets, it wasn't a problem. Now, being aluminum, and aluminum sockets and heat they tend to seize. Also, if you rotate the pliers clockwise, as you suggested, you will only screw the base in tighter. I find it works best to use a pair of needle-nose pliers and insert between the base and socket. Turn counter-clockwise and it splits the base and collapses it and makes it easier to remove. Keep up the good suggestions. Gerry, Winnipeg
-- I wish I had seen your solution to the fruit fly problem a few weeks ago, as we had an infestation in our house. May I suggest using a vacuum to suck the little buggers up instead of using hairspray? Once the flies are gone, dispose of the vacuum bag. Trish (Lake Winnipeg)
-- A few months ago a reader wrote in regarding mould on her bathroom tiles and her lack of success in removing it. I had the same problem -- I removed it successfully using 'Fantastic with Bleach'. It took two applications. It saved us from ripping out the tiles and replacing them. Anonymous
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming!
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, Man., ROA 0C0.
