Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Use low-number papers for rough sanding
QUESTION -- What is meant by the term "grade of abrasive paper" and what is meant by the term "raising the grain"?ANSWER -- The "grade" (or grit) of abrasive paper refers to the size of the abrasive particles in the sandpaper. Given the same number of passes and the same amount of pressure, paper with larger particles sands deeper and rougher than paper containing smaller particles. A lower number indicates that the grade of the paper is used for rough sanding where a high number indicates the sandpaper is meant for finish sanding.
Generally speaking, 30- and 60-grit papers are used for rough sanding, 100- to 150-grit sandpaper is for medium sanding and 220-grit sandpaper is used for finish sanding. But this changes with the type of wood and whether the sanding is done by hand or with a machine. The best way to determine what grit to use is to test-sand. Start with the finer grits (150 to 220) and slowly work up to the rougher grades.
Sanding a soft wood with rough sandpaper, or sanding perpendicular to the wood fibres, could possibly tear the wood fibres -- causing the grain to raise to the surface. Another way of causing the grain to raise is to over-wet wood; it's what painters must contend with after the first coat of paint is applied. At this point, and once the paint or varnish has dried, the first coat and the raised surface must be smoothed. The second coat of finish usually will not raise the grain because the wood is protected from absorbing moisture by the previous coat.
-- Associated Press
Renovation & Design
Stay cool this summer with fine-tuned air conditioner
You don't have to pay through the nose to keep cool this summer. Here are some steps you can take to lower your bill, improve comfort and help save the planet.Dehumidify
An air conditioning system does more than just cool the air. It lowers humidity and removes dust and dirt by moving the air through filters. One of the most appealing aspects of having less humid air is that it actually feels cooler to the skin, thus allowing you to raise the thermostat.
If you don't already have one, you may want to consider adding a dehumidifier if you live in a particularly humid climate. It can result in significant energy savings, a lower utility bill and less wear and tear on your cooling system.
Check the filters
When filters become clogged with dirt, the system must work harder to do its job. This wastes energy and inflates utility bills. Disposable filters should be checked every two months (once a month during peak use) and replaced when necessary. Stay away from cheap, Fiberglas mesh filters. A pleated filter will cost three times more, but normally last three to five times as long and does a better job of protecting your system.
If your air conditioning system has either a permanent or electronic filter, it should be cleaned or replaced according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Go whole-house
If you live in a dusty area or suffer from allergies, kick up your air cleaning horsepower by installing a whole-house air cleaner. You'll get the best of all worlds: a clean system and fewer allergens that make you wheeze and sneeze.
Monitor your refrigerant
Air conditioners use a refrigerant gas that is circulated throughout the system to produce cool air. Minute leaks in the system can allow the refrigerant to escape. When this happens, more electricity is used with less cooling effect. Have a heating and cooling contractor check the refrigerant level every year or two.
Go heavy on metal
If those funny paper-thin metal separators on the exterior portion of the system (the condensing unit) are bent, efficiency is reduced because air flow is diminished. Use an old dinner knife or thin-bladed screwdriver to straighten out bent fins. It isn't important that the fins look nice -- only that air passes freely between all of them.
Shut it
Some people like to "help" their air conditioner by opening doors and windows on warm days. But doing so lets all the cool, dehumidified air rush outside and lets in the hot, humid air. The more your home seals out heat, humidity, and dust, the more efficiently your system will do its job.
Insulation, weather-stripping, window coverings and shade trees are a few things that can be used to help your home beat the heat.
Program
A programmable thermostat can save energy and money. Programmable thermostats automatically change the thermostat's set temperature between comfort levels and energy-saving levels at specified times, according to the programs you set up. Generally, to save energy, you would set up four program periods for each day -- two comfort (cooling) programs and two energy saving (idle or higher temperature) programs.
Get efficient
When an air conditioner begins to show its age, it is usually a major component such as a motor or compressor that wears out. In the short run, replacing failed components will usually cost the least amount of money. But the government-backed Energy Star program recommends replacing your air conditioner with a new, more energy-efficient model if it is 10 years or older. Eventually, the more efficient unit should pay for itself through decreased utility bills.
-- Associated Press
Renovation & Design
170 attend MHBA renovation seminar
The Manitoba Home Builders' Association recently hosted its 3rd annual Renovation Seminar at the Norwood Hotel. More than 170 people attended. The event was free to the public and featured a number of experts addressing many topics related to home renovation.Tim Loeb from Manitoba Hydro talked about Power Smart and the variety of financial incentive programs offered to those who are committed to making their homes more energy efficient. Sylvia Hartry and Elvira Krahn from Steinbach Credit Union gave the audience a variety of alternatives relating to the financing of renovations, whether they be big or small jobs.
Martin Grady from the City of Winnipeg Zoning and Permits department clarified which jobs needed a permit and the potential dangers of not taking out a permit when required. Kim Schroeder from Charisma told everyone how to Go Green With Style and gave tips on ecologically friendly design.
There were five professional renovators on the panel who shared their expertise with the room. Brad Sveinson (Character Homes), Grant Sakiyama (Sakiyama Construction), Glen Dudeck (Paramount Windows) and Tony Teunis and Marcel Verrier from All Canadian Renovations answered any and all questions from the audience and gave many valuable recommendations.
A renovation project should be an exciting and rejuvenating time for the home owner. By taking the time and effort to do your homework before starting the project, it will be an enjoyable experience for everyone.
Look for the RenoMark Renovation Parade in October. The Manitoba Home Builders' Association will be highlighting a number of outstanding renovation projects that will be open for public viewing.
Michael Moore is president of the Manitoba Home Builders' Association
Checklist
Some of the key points to consider when renovating are:
Develop a realistic budget of what you can afford
Check with the municipality about licensing and zoning
Define the scope of work with plans and specifications
Decide what type of contractor you need
Gather names from friends, home shows or professional associations
Narrow the field by asking about liability insurance, workers compensation coverage, business or GST numbers
Check references
Get it in writing; insist on a written proposal
Avoid the cash deal; you may save a few dollars at the front end but you will have no legal protection in the event that something goes wrong
Maintain control with regular meetings and updated information
Renovation & Design
Take care with pressure-treated wood
OTTAWA -- Arsenic isn't an element that enjoys a good public relations image. That's why the American and Canadian lumber industries voluntarily halted consumer sales of all pressure-treated wood containing arsenic-bearing chemicals four years ago.Trouble is, the new, arsenic-free, pressure-treated lumber also presents hidden hazards that too few people realize. If you're planning to build an outdoor project this spring, you need to understand crucial details for your work to endure. And don't assume that every builder understands the seriousness of this issue.
Safety rules for handling and building with the new breeds of lumber read the same as for old wood, despite the freedom from arsenic. According to Environment Canada, avoid using the new pressure-treated lumber where direct food contact is possible.
Keep it away from animal food storage bins, water troughs and compost bins.
Wear gloves and long sleeves when working with pressure-treated lumber, and put on a dust mask when cutting it. Wash your hands after working with the product, and especially before eating, drinking or smoking.
Launder work clothes separately before reuse, and never burn pressure-treated wood scraps. Of all the safety rules -- new pressure-treated or old -- the no-burn requirement is the most important.
Besides rules for safe handling of pressure-treated lumber, there's a structural issue, and it has to do with a chemical interaction that's not obvious.
A substance called alkaline copper quat (ACQ) is one of the most common wood preservative compounds that keeps new kinds of pressure-treated lumber from rotting.
ACQ relies on copper to be effective, not arsenic, and this is where structural problems can occur if you're not careful. When the copper in pressure-treated wood gets wet and comes in contact with certain kinds of metal nails, screws and joist hangers, it accelerates the corrosion of these fasteners.
The first signs of trouble show up as rapid staining of the wood surrounding these fasteners, often within just a few weeks of construction. And within a few years, the choice of inappropriate fasteners will cause premature deck failure as nails and screws are reduced to crumbly iron oxide.
Hot-dipped galvanized nails and screws offer the minimum level of corrosion protection required by today's modern lumber. Stainless steel is even better, though there's a problem. It's not always easy to know the makeup of fasteners just by looking at them. In fact, you can't tell what you've got just by sight.
At a minimum, the safest approach is to use fasteners specifically labelled for use with ACQ lumber. You should also make a distinction between two kinds of joints in your outdoor projects: joints that remain accessible after construction, and those that you can't ever get at once the project is complete. Inaccessible joints should be fastened with the more costly, reliable stainless-steel screws or nails. You can afford to use less expensive, hot-dipped fasteners on joints where additional nails or screws can be installed years later, if the first fasteners fail.
Aluminum flashing is another area you need to consider when using pressure-treated wood. Aluminum is especially vulnerable to corrosion when in contact with copper-rich lumber. That's why it's essential to use copper flashing anywhere near pressure-treated wood.
Handle today's pressure-treated lumber properly and it'll deliver excellent results for a long, long time.
Steve Maxwell is technical editor of Canadian Home Workshop magazine.
-- Canwest News Service
Renovation & Design
Make the most of home spa experience
With Mother's Day just around the corner, it's time to turn your home into spa central for the woman who does so much!1. Perhaps the most important part of the home spa experience is being sure you have uninterrupted quiet time. When creating the perfect spa experience, soothing music is an easy and thoughtful beginning. After that it is time for the perfect bath or shower followed by a few easy spa recipes using products from behind your cupboard doors.
2. You'll be surprised at how lighting can create a stress-relieving mood. Lighting the room with candles will fill the area with a soothing scent and offer a very relaxing atmosphere.
3. Installing a luxury bathroom is one way to pamper your family. And you don't need a big budget to bring the spa into your bathroom. A Jacuzzi tub or a steam shower are wonderful additions to any bathroom; however, you can give your bathroom a spa feel even with a more subtle redesign. Elegant designer taps, heated towel rails, new lighting and soft towels are all inexpensive ways to make your bathroom an oasis in the home.
4. Anyone who has never seen a steam shower may be unaware of the large differences in steam shower quality. Some steam showers are sturdy and have well-built electronics while others are flimsy with poor electronics. Before purchasing a steam shower, shake the unit. This easy step will help determine if the unit is flimsy or solid and well constructed. Tip: The door of the steam shower should be made with high strength tempered safety glass. A well-sealed steam shower reduces steam and water leakages dramatically.
5. If you are planning to purchase a new tub, begin by deciding where the tub will be positioned. Tip: Easiest to install are five-foot models that slide into your existing tub alcove. On the other hand, corner tubs maximize floor space.
6. Make sure your water heater is large enough to fill about two-thirds of your tub with warm water. Whirlpool tubs vary in size, holding 25 to 150 gallons of water.
7. When purchasing a tub, pay attention to the details: Look for protected jets and sensors that cut the motor if the water is low, so the motor won't burn out. Built-in grab bars and slip-resistant floors add safety. Units with internal water heaters maintain a consistent temperature.
8. Determine if you want a self-cleaning tub system. Since whirlpool tubs recirculate water, their systems need frequent cleaning. Some air-jet systems automatically purge bacteria-causing residue after each use.
9. Water temperature is one of the important things to be aware of when preparing a home bath spa. Each degree of water will have different effects on your body. You should never take a bath that is more than 40-43 C. For a hot 10- to 25-minute bath, you should use the temperature of 38-40 C. For a herbal bath, the temperature of 38 C is best. These baths should be from about 15 to 30 minutes.
10. Bubble Nut Bath Recipe: In a bowl, combine one-half cup honey, one-quarter cup gentle liquid soap, 1 tbsp. almond or vanilla extract and 1 tbsp. glycerine. Shake and add to bath. Or combine 1 tbsp. shampoo with one-eighth cup safflower oil and pour under running water. Tip: While you are at it, why not sprinkle a handful of rose petals onto the water?
11. Create your own Fruit Smoothie Hair Mask: In a blender, combine one-quarter banana, half-cup avocado, one-quarter cup cantaloupe, 2 tsp. wheat germ and 1 tbsp. yogurt. Leave in hair for 10 minutes. Rinse.
12. I Can't Believe It's Not Butter Face Mask Recipe: Combine 1 tbsp. regular yogurt and 1 tsp. soft honey. Apply to face 7 minutes. Pat and rinse face with hot cloth.
13. Pinky Toe Milk Bath: In a pot, heat 5 cups of water and 2 cups of milk. Remove from heat; add 3-5 drops peppermint essential oil. Soak feet for 15 minutes at the hottest temperature that feels comfortable. Rinse, dry and apply lotion.
14. Super Soft Sugar Baby Lotion: Combine 2 parts cooking oil with 1 tbsp. salt and 1 tbsp. sugar. Spread on hands and leave for 5 minutes, rinse in lukewarm water.
15. Before a home spa manicure or pedicure, file nails and soak them in a bowl of warm water and 1-2 tbsp. of lemon juice or olive oil to soften hands and cuticles. Let soak approximately 5-10 minutes. Tip: The final touch, purchase rhinestones from a beauty salon and apply to toe nails after the pedicure.
Solutions is compiled from various sources: divapor.com, ehow.com, ezinearticles.com, essortment.com, stretcher.com, beauty.about.com, lifetoolsforwomen.com, stress.about.com. Thank-you to all who contributed! Similar information may be found elsewhere.
Solutions sleuth Reena Nerbas is a home economist and speaks professionally on the topic of household challenges; she is also the author of two national bestsellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions and Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets. She can be heard on radio and television programs across Canada.
Visit me online at: www.householdsolutions.org
Renovation & Design
Deck finishing is much more than just stain
Every summer, I hear from homeowners looking for advice about finishing their new wooden deck. And every summer, I wish I could've talked to these folks a few months earlier. That's because finishing a deck really isn't about finishing a deck. It's also about critical design and construction details required to create a deck that stays beautiful for a long time.This goal can't be achieved as an afterthought while standing in a hardware store aisle deciding which deck stain to buy. No, to achieve a durable deck you must start at the beginning with sound construction strategies and a field-tested finishing approach.
The first thing to understand is that achieving a durable deck finish doesn't happen easily. The effects of water, sunshine and gritty foot traffic makes the deck-finishing challenge difficult. That's why so many new decks look grey and lifeless after a year or two.
All deck finishes are especially vulnerable on 90-degree edges. Everywhere that a sharp corner exists, the potential for early finish failure is high. In fact, it's guaranteed. That's because finishing liquids become very thinly spread on corners as you brush them on. This is also why it pays to get rid of sharp corners during construction.
The first and most obvious involves easing corners and edges using a router spinning with something called a roundover or chamfer bit. As the name suggests, this tool converts sharp corners into gently curved or angled edges. If you're building your deck, simply include a router in the tools you gather for the job. If you're hiring a pro, ask for rounded or chamferred details, ignoring the very probable comments about "not normally doing it this way."
Another construction feature that makes finishes fail too soon is the traditional practice of fastening deck boards from the top down with screws. Every place a screw head divets the surface of outdoor wood, it creates a brand-new corner where the finish will invariably be weak and prone to early decay. This is one reason I like hidden deck board fasteners. The other reason is superior appearance. The smooth, hole-free surface looks so much better, even without considering how much longer it's going to stay that way.
Every newly-built wooden deck seems to call out for finishing. That's why so many homeowners are too quick to get busy with a brush, setting themselves up for premature finish failure. The fact is, many deck finishing products fail quickly, even when applied over a properly prepared surface. Then there's the issue of hidden wood moisture and its effect on finishes.
Before you build any deck, be sure you're using nails, screws and bolts that are hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel. Too many decks are built with shiny, corrosion-prone electroplated fasteners that are destined to stain the surrounding wood and fail prematurely.
For critical information on specific deck finishing products and strategies that have proven themselves in the field, send me an e-mail at deckfinishing@stevemaxwell.ca.
Steve Maxwell is technical editor of Canadian Home Workshop magazine.
-- Canwest News Service
Renovation & Design
Don't panic: stuff underneath old carpet just varnish
QUESTION -- I'm refinishing the stairs in my turn-of-the-century home, and when I pulled off the carpet I found this black stuff underneath. I don't think it's paint. What could it be?
ANSWER -- This could be one of two things. It could be shellac, which would be easily removed using alcohol. But the black substance is probably a varnish that was popular to use on wood in the era when your house was built. This varnish is thin and doesn't penetrate the wood, and will be easily cleaned with a mild paint remover.
--Associated Press