Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Ventilation needed to cure damp smell
QUESTION: Fifteen years ago we added a bedroom and family room to our 540-square-foot home. The addition is set on piles. The crawl space was insulated with Styrofoam and poly and the floor was covered with poly and sand. All of my downspouts have extenders. The only access to the crawl space is through two old basement window openings to facilitate air movement.
Over time we have noticed dampness and a musty smell emanating from the crawl space. Last winter we closed over the window openings and diverted a heat duct into the area from the furnace that has the fan running continuously. The thinking was this would dry out the sand base and eliminate any mustiness, but it still prevails.
Should we be installing venting in the outer walls for summer airing and continue with the heating in winter? I assume any venting would have to be closed off to eliminate cold air over the winter. -- Jim Rodgers
ANSWER: Damp-smelling crawl spaces are one of the most common issues homeowners face, no matter what age or location of the home. This can range from standing water to simple odours similar to what you are experiencing. Measures to prevent this from occurring range from major excavation to proper ventilation, but your situation seems to be more related to the latter.
No matter how well built or sealed a crawl space is, moisture intrusion is always a possibility. You have already addressed several of the most common causes of the dampness, but that may not be a complete remedy. The reason that many crawl spaces have moisture issues is simply the design. These areas are typically constructed with a short perimeter concrete grade beam that is the only barrier to moisture from the surrounding soil entering the crawl space below grade. As in your case, this grade beam is supported by deep concrete piers that will resist vertical movement, but they provide little additional protection from the moisture in the surrounding soil.
Due to normal erosion and soil wetting and drying, water may be able to seep underneath the grade beam and enter the crawl space. The polyethylene air/vapour barrier you have installed may prevent most of this moisture from entering the living space of your home, but it is never perfect. Also, it can trap moisture in the soil, allowing it to remain damp, which may be the major source of the smells you are experiencing.
While you have taken measures to minimize moisture intrusion by good grading and water management on the exterior of your home, and have added heat from your forced air furnace, you may be missing one important component from the crawl space. A sump pit and pump, possibly connected to a perimeter drainage system, is an important part of most dry crawl spaces. This pit should be located near the centre of the crawl space, preferably at a low point in the sloping soil. This will collect excess moisture in the soil and the pump will discharge it to the exterior. If you don't have a properly installed sump pit and pump in an addition of your age, one should be relatively easy to install. Even without a perimeter drainage system, this may help to collect enough excess moisture to prevent the damp-smell in your crawl space.
To more directly answer your question, adding summer vents in the perimeter grade beam is a very good idea. The warm, fresh air that will enter the crawl space through these vents will help eliminate the moisture and the offensive odour. These vents may be difficult to install, requiring cutting or drilling through the concrete grade beam, but may be well worth the effort and cost. You should ensure that you have at least one vent on opposite sides of the foundation to allow a good cross draft to develop. Also, these vents must be screened to prevent inspects and other pests from entering the crawl space. Finally, winter covers will be critical, but these may be insulated with rigid foam, similar to the other insulation already in place.
The last issue to address is the heating and ventilation of the crawl space in the heating season. You have taken exactly the right steps by installing a warm-air duct from the furnace and running the fan continuously, but you have erred by closing the access hatches. The two openings into your basement are the only means of ventilation of the damp crawl space in the winter, so they should remain open. Pumping warm air into this area will help dry out the moisture by simple circulation, but much of this damp air may remain trapped without any means to escape. Closing these access hatches may prevent the musty smell from entering the basement, but will only make this issue worse when they are opened.
To sum up this discussion, moisture prevention for crawl spaces has two main areas to address. Firstly, prevention of water entering this area by good exterior grading and water management is very important. Secondly, when water does penetrate this area, despite your best attempts to minimize it, it must be eliminated. This can best be achieved by a combination of a properly installed and maintained sump pit and pump and good ventilation.
If all of these components are in place, the moisture, along with the offensive smell, should disappear.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Clear windows invite bird fatalities
QUESTION: I am in desperate need of your help! For the past month, a bird (robin) has been flying into our patio-door window. I am assuming he sees his shadow and thinks it is another bird. All this starts at 5:45 a.m. Not only are we awake for the rest of the day, but we also have a messy window and bird "poop" all over the deck. I have tried putting paper over the window, hanging wind chimes and also foil plates on a string hanging the length of the window. Nothing is working! Hoping you have a solution to this annoying problem. Thanks, Jane, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The problem is that you are too good at cleaning your windows. Next time your windows are dirty, just smear instead of polishing them. One of the leading causes of death for wild birds is flying into glass windows. An estimated 97 million birds die each year in North America as a result of collisions with windows. Your windows act like mirrors when your house is dark. Therefore, begin by turning on lights inside your house. Otherwise, they will only see their own reflection or the reflection of the trees behind them. Altering drapes or blinds may also help reduce the reflection. Adding curtains to windows on the other side of the room removes the "tunnel" birds see when looking straight through your house.
You can also reduce collisions by placing screen, netting or strips of cloth outside your windows as a warning. Hawk decals will work, but only if you use LOTS of them as a way to turn an invisible window into a "solid wall." Actually, any decal or paper cut-out works. One or two big hawk decals are useless. You can hang lace curtains or lean several old CDs against the window ledge. If you're really desperate, create patterns with tape. Tempura paint is readily available and inexpensive to purchase in most craft and hobby stores. The paint can be applied in many ways, from brushing to stencils to sponges. Tempura will withstand rain and is completely non-toxic. To remove, wipe with a damp sponge or rag and then wash the window normally.
QUESTION: I always read your household solutions to all the various things that are likely to happen around the house and appreciate how you use natural remedies to get fabulous results. I inherited a piece of leather furniture that I cherish. I tried to buy leather conditioner to preserve its beauty, but to my surprise, it was so expensive. As a student, I usually like to go with the most reasonable and safest option. I will really appreciate if you could find a natural solution for me. Thanks for your good work. Regards, Pat (Steinbach, MB)
ANSWER: An inexpensive way to soften and condition leather is to use either cold cream or petroleum jelly. Rub one or the other onto leather and wipe away excess cream with a towel. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous area first. For general cleaning or water spots, wipe furniture with vinegar or beeswax, or vinegar combined with linseed oil. When you find a stain mark on a leather garment, use the inside cuff of the leather piece to rub against the stain. Taken from Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions.
Fabulous tips of the week
-- Keep flies away with fly traps. There are many products on the market such as sticky strips and fly traps that catch flies and prevent them from getting into the house. There are even some non-toxic traps on the market.
-- Hang one roll of bubble wrap above each exterior doorway or entrance to the house. It can be taped with double stick tape right where the door meets the upper jam.
www.householdsolutions.com
Renovation & Design
Homes in Brief
Portable cooktop
APPLIANCE -- The folks at Frigidaire have been busy cooking up a space-saving stovetop solution. The Portable Induction Cooktop ($199) blends convenience with energy-efficient cooking in a format ideal for small living spaces or non-traditional cooking spots found in condos, RVs, basements, boats or cabins. It's also a creative solution for families that love to entertain, but long for additional cooking space.
The cooktop's induction technology effectively converts electricity into cooktop surface heat, and it allows for precise temperature control. The appliance is lightweight, with a compact design, and it can be cleaned easily with a damp cloth or sponge.
The Frigidaire Portable Induction Cooktop is available at Sears, The Brick, Leon's, the Bay and Coast Wholesale Appliances.
Get organized
STORAGE -- Those of us fortunate enough to have a door that shuts off the laundry room from prying eyes need never worry about the messy contents inside ... until the day we can't tell where the dirty clothes end and the clean begin.
Enter the Evertidy laundry organizer ($69.99), with its built-in rack to hang clean clothes, storage shelf and large basket for collecting soiled threads. It also comes with two utility hooks and two magnetic lid jars. The system can be installed in 15 minutes on most surfaces, including drywall.
Evertidy also makes a garden tools organizer ($69.99). Evertidy systems are available at Zellers, Sears and Superstore locations. Go to www.evertidy.comfor more information.
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Permanent marker can be scribbled out
QUESTION: I enjoyed your presentation at a Lunch and Learn session in our office but since then I have a new challenge in my home. My teenager wrote on my brand new white board with permanent marker. Is the board garbage, or is there a way to remove the marker? Thomas, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You will be amazed at how easy it is to remove permanent marker from a white board with this handy little secret! Using a dry-erase marker, scribble over every permanent mark on the board. Wipe. All of the permanent marker and your frustration will quickly disappear.
QUESTION: In a recent article you suggested placing milk cartons between tomato plants with holes around the sides and pouring water into them to slowly water the plants. I tried this and the water leaked out. When you say place cartons between plants do you mean dig them into the earth? Jim, Winnipeg
ANSWER: When watering tomato plants, there are many effective techniques that work, from just spraying with a garden hose to using a soaker hose or placing individual milk jugs by each plant. If you are using the water hose, it's time consuming and may cause disease problems by splashing soil onto the leaves. Soaker hoses are much more efficient giving less evaporation and more even distribution of water. A simple way to water is to cut 3 X's in the bottom of the milk jugs and bury them a few inches in the soil near plants or between two plants. Fill the jugs with water and they will soak slowly into the soil right where needed. It's important to provide an even supply of moisture to the plant so once you start watering, continue on a routine schedule.
QUESTION: While making cooked pudding I put two pots together because I didn't have a double boiler. After cooking the pudding I was unable to separate the two pots. I have tried heating both pots, soaking both pots in cool and warm water and dribbling oil between the pots. Nothing has worked. Any suggestions? Lorrie, Swan River
ANSWER: Immerse the outside pot in HOT water then pour very COLD water inside the inner pot. Cold contracts and heat expands so hopefully there will be enough room to break the vacuum seal.
QUESTION: I enjoy reading your column in the Winnipeg Free Press and now I need your help. There are water stains in front of my fireplace mantle. I have tried many products but cannot erase them. Also what cheap solution can I use to clean my stainless steel appliances? Inka, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Without knowing what your mantle is made of, it is hard to offer a solution. Assuming the mantle is brick, you will need to purchase an acid-based brick cleaner from a hardware store or masonry dealer. Follow the label directions. To prevent future watermarks, consider sealing the area.
Instead of purchasing expensive stainless steel cleaners, make your own. Into a squeeze bottle combine 50/50 baby oil and rubbing alcohol. Pour onto a soft cloth and wipe onto stainless steel then wipe off with a soft, dry cloth. So simple and easy to make. Be sure to test the solution on a small inconspicuous area first.