Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: How to be sure HRV system is up to par
QUESTION: I am moving into a new home and have ordered an HRV system. You had stated in a previous newspaper article many technicians are not knowledgeable in installing these systems. What should I look for when I do the new-home inspection? Thank you, WM
ANSWER: Your question is timely as I recently inspected two newly built homes by the same builder with different HRV installations, one correct and one not. I will offer some guidance on what to look for on the unit in your home.
I am assuming the new-home inspection you're talking about is the walk-through with the builder's representative prior to occupancy. This is not a true inspection since you're only asked to identify any issues you know about. You're not likely educated in what to look for, other than cosmetic or obvious defects. Ideally, you could have had a CAHPI inspector accompany you on a full inspection prior to this point, but that was not likely done.
The problem with your inspection is not only the limitation on your knowledge, but the limited time given to you by the builder's representative and the need to identify items without prior access. However, I do commend you on seeking advice on this issue so you are better prepared for your inspection.
As for evaluation of your HRV, I will try to provide a crash course on what to look for on your walk-through.
Firstly, you should ensure the ducting connected to the HRV unit is going to the right locations. While this may seem rather complicated, it can be simplified considerably by looking for markings or stickers on the HRV unit itself. There will either be a schematic drawing, showing which ducts should be connected to various areas, or labels directly beside the ducts where they connect to the box.
There should be two solid metal ducts connected to the stale air coming from the house and the fresh air to the house connections. The fresh-air duct should be connected to the return-air ducting on the furnace and the stale air to ducting coming from the bathrooms and other areas of the house.
The next two connections should be to insulated ducting, which terminates at hoods outside the house. One will be for the fresh-air intake and the other will be for exhaust air. These vent hoods should be easily visible on the exterior of the house walls or foundation and often have screens or grates integral to prevent pest intrusion. If these ducts appear to be in the correct location, which is not normally a problem in most installations, you can move on to the next step.
The next item to check is the control device for the HRV. This is normally located in a hallway or part of the main living area in the home and usually beside the thermostat for the HVAC systems. There are several different styles of controls, but most have a manual portion of the control and a humidistatic portion.
The HRV can also be manually activated with switches in the bathrooms. This aspect replaces the older-style exhaust fans and can be activated much the same way as in older homes. Again, these are most often working fine in most new-home installations.
The main problem seems to be with the humidistatic controls. HRVs are designed to control excessive humidity in homes by exhausting stale, moist house air and replacing it with dry, fresh outside air. This not only removes pollutants from the living space caused by cooking, heating and other human factors, but also eliminates a lot of the moisture produced from these activities.
This can be done manually by turning the HRV on continuously, using the main control or bathroom switches, but may keep the unit running too long, or not long enough. The humidistat on the main control should be adjustable to engage the HRV only when the relative humidity (RH) in the home surpasses a certain level. That level can also be adjusted to accommodate changes in weather and climatic conditions. If that part of the control is not functional, then the HRV is only a more energy-efficient version of an exhaust fan and not being used to its maximum potential.
To check if it is working, the HRV should come on automatically when the RH settings are turned down below the normal range without engaging any other switches or controls. It should also shut off when the humidistat is further adjusted above the RH in the home and both levels are normally noted by a small click when the control is rotated beyond that threshold.
The final item to check is whether the HRV controls are cross-connected with the furnace fan. This is important to provide maximum ventilation, especially in some of today's larger homes. The fans integral with the HRV are quite small, and the furnace fan can be of major assistance to provide effective air circulation when it is used in combination with the HRV.
This can be checked simply by listening to the furnace while the HRV is manually engaged. There may be different settings on the controls to turn this function on or off, so be careful not to jump to conclusions if it doesn't work when first attempted.
In the last few years, I've seen many HRV units improperly installed or not functioning properly. Lately, most of the problems have been non-functioning humidistatic controls, but other items may also be a concern. As with any appliance, HRVs require regular maintenance, which includes cleaning filters and the core as per manufacturer's instructions.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Ladybugs pestering? Count your blessings
QUESTION: I would like to thank you for all of your work in helping Manitoba live green! Every year I battle a large quantity of ladybugs in my yard, they typically stay outdoors but there are so many of them. What do you think I should do to get rid of them? Herald (Virden)
ANSWER: Ladybugs got their name in the Middle Ages during a terrible aphid infestation. Farmers gathered together to pray to the Virgin Mary for help. Shortly thereafter, ladybugs arrived and began eating the aphids and the crops were saved. The farmers named the little red beetles ladybugs after the Virgin Mary, who they believed had sent the insects as an answer to their prayers.
My advice to you requires zero toxic chemicals and no weapons of any kind, just count your blessings. Like ants, ladybugs are extremely beneficial to gardeners. Ladybugs eat huge amounts of aphids and therefore as outside creatures they are definitely a welcome addition.
On the other hand, indoor ladybugs are another story; I have received many letters from people whose houses were infested and overridden with thousands of ladybugs but that's an entirely different challenge.
QUESTION: My daughter left her straightener on our new bathroom counter in the basement. It is marble. It has discolored the counter. Is there any way to remove the "stain"? Also, which bookstores stock your book? I thoroughly enjoy your column and want to check out your books. Thanks for your time, Brenda (Morris)
ANSWER: Are you sure that you are dealing with real marble or could it be cultured marble? If you have cultured marble, the damage may be permanent. You may find someone who can sand it down and reapply a protective coating, but it almost certainly won't match the rest.
If you have real marble, then you'll need to hire a marble restoration professional to sand/grind away the damaged stone, re-hone and repolish the area to match the rest of your countertop.
Whether you are dealing with real or artificial marble, you can attempt the following suggestions but remember to test everything on an inconspicuous area first. For do-it-yourself repair, apply either non-bleach toothpaste or a paste of baking soda and water onto the stain. Leave for at least three hours and wipe. Or use three per cent hydrogen peroxide and cover it with a white paper towel and plastic wrap. Tape the sides of the plastic onto the counter to create a poultice which may draw out the burn mark. Some people use 35 per cent hydrogen peroxide for this challenge but the concentration is quite high which makes this much more risky than three per cent.
If the mark remains, you may be able to hide the burn mark by applying bathtub paint over the area. In any case it would be best to call in the professionals as you don't want to accentuate or enlarge the mark.
It is difficult to find my books in stores; they are available at householdsolutions.org by calling 204-320-2757.
QUESTION: I am helping my daughter and son-in-law paint their new house. Before I changed into my paint clothes, I got white paint on my denim skirt. Can you please tell me what to use to get paint out? I really appreciate your help regarding this. Thanks, Vickie (Whiteshell)
ANSWER: Since the paint is more than six hours old, you will need to take aggressive action. In a ventilated area, soak the stain in methyl hydrate or paint thinner (found at your local hardware store; test on an inconspicuous area first). Leave for 24 hours and scrub. Next, soak the shirt in dish soap and water, rinse and wash as normal.
Feedback from reader:
I was reading your column about a lady who had a burnt pot. I just had a pot with burnt relish containing sugar that I tried several different things to clean it and had no luck. Then I bought a can of oven cleaner and sprayed the pot. I left it overnight and it became shiny clean. Just thought this sounded like an easier solution than boiling washing soda and sandpaper. Gaylene, Winnipeg
Renovation & Design
Beware of boring colour schemes
DEAR Marc,
I am living in a small and ordinary condo, purchased at the very highest time. In order to sell it quickly for the highest possible price, I've begun to upgrade the unit. In the kitchen, I have so far done the following: medium-toned hardwood floors and stainless steel appliances. Because there is minimal light in the kitchen, I am looking at the lightest possible colours for the countertop. I love marble but it doesn't seem practical and granite doesn't have real light colours. Any suggestions?
Bea
Dear Bea,
Upgrading your condo is a great investment! Kitchens are at the heart of the home and they are usually the room that sells the house when potential buyers are browsing though your home.
There are many different factors that come into play when choosing kitchen countertops as they will tie your entire kitchen design together with the use of your set colour scheme. I personally love a clean look for a kitchen. Although granite is a great option, you will have a challenge finding a neutral/light-coloured granite. Granite is all about character and a one-of-a-kind look.
There are alternative products on the market that might better suit your look and budget. When you are looking for something specific in light colours, you may opt to look for products such as quartz countertops. Quartz is a great alternative to granite and comes in a variety of different styles. It is also very durable and comes in every colour imaginable including white. The product is easy to maintain and usually comes as a scratch, stain and heat resistant countertop.
Judging by the design elements you have chosen, you will want countertops that create a statement, yet blend into your overall design. To ensure this, be sure to choose a contrasting colour for your walls. There is nothing worse than having white walls with white countertops. It's just too boring for the statement we want to make.
I would also suggest upgrading your lighting. Lighting impacts your overall design and you can't hide bad lighting, no matter how much money you spend on the rest of your design. Invest in quality fixtures that exude more light than your current fixtures. Light affects your colours and the overall mood of the room. Proper lighting will make your space more appealing to potential buyers. If you have a window in your kitchen, be sure to choose window coverings that allow lots of natural light which will again help with your lighting problem.
Once you have upgraded your countertops and light fixtures, simply add a few colourful accessories which will bring vibrancy and energy to your space.
Marc Atiyolil is the editor-in-chief of Canadian Home Trends, Canadas Home Decor & Lifestyle Magazine. To submit a question for Marc Atiyolil, visit CanadianHomeTrends.ca.
-- Canwest News Service
Renovation & Design
How to fit a round bed in a square room
Dear Leanne: We bought a round bed for our teenage daughter but are having problems placing it. We tried it in the centre of the room, but that didn't feel right and we couldn't place all her furniture back. Then we put it in a corner, but since it doesn't have a headboard, it felt as if it didn't fit. The same thing happened when we placed it against a wall. How do you make these beds work in square rooms?
ANSWER: Ah, the old 'how to fit a round peg in a square hole' dilemma. A bed without a head-or footboard has good points as well as its challenges.
On the one hand, you are free to orient the bed in any direction you choose. On the other hand, this ambiguity can make the bed feel imbalanced unless you create a purposeful placement for it.
Round beds are whimsical. They are not obtained for their 'practical functionality' but rather their uniqueness. That idea is what you will need to continue to make this room feel like the bed belongs.
Decide on a theme for the room. Does your daughter want it flowing with a fairy-tale feel or the sophistication of old Hollywood or a modern-contemporary feel? Each can be accomplished, but a theme needs to be determined to proceed to the next step.
Placing the bed in the centre of the room is likely going to be avoided; as you have noted, you cannot replace the furniture when it is in this configuration. Functionality wins out here. Your remaining options are to place the bed in a corner or against a wall.
Walk into the bedroom and evaluate your options. Place the bed as far from the entrance as possible -- for instance, the adjacent corner or the farther side wall. Avoid the need to walk directly into the bed.
Of course, your options will be also limited by the existing closet, ensuite bathroom and windows. In a corner arrangement, develop the corner to accommodate the roundness of the bed. This can be accomplished with fabric and a ceiling-mounted, bendable drapery track. By draping fabric behind the bed you create a headboard effect.
To create solid curved doors for such a unit is a little more of a challenge, as this requires a lamination and steam process to create a solid curved door.
However, attaching several solid surfaces together can also create an illusion of a curved surface.
The advantage to the hard unit is that you can use the corner for storage.
Leanne Brownoff is an Edmonton interior design consultant. Visit her at www.leannebrownoff.com.
