Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Let's address some fireplace safety issues
QUESTION: Yesterday, I burned some wood in our fireplace. At bedtime, I left the flue open because there were still some hot embers in the hearth. I covered the fireplace opening with a blanket to keep the cold air from coming in. At 1:30 a.m. I awoke to the smell of smoke throughout the house.
We have a Flair compact 350 HRV in the house. This is the first house we have owned with an HRV. We have been setting the control according to the daytime outside temperature. Our next-door neighbour heats with wood and is located on the same side as the inlet/outlet for the HRV. These vents are located about six inches above the ground on the west side of the house. I have no idea if it was installed properly because the previous owner was a contractor and built the house himself and took shortcuts. There are no controls for it in the bathroom or kitchen.
The house is heated with electric forced air. The house is 16 years old but we replaced an old furnace two years ago. We have a setback thermostat, which goes down to 17 C at bedtime.
Would the smoke have come from the fireplace or is it coming in through the HRV? Is there anything we can do to prevent this from happening again? Is there some kind of filter we can put on the furnace/HRV to remove smoke from the air? I would appreciate any information you may offer.
Thanks, Cathy Coss, Warren, MB
ANSWER: The first item I must address is the safety aspect of going to sleep with a smouldering fire or embers still burning in your fireplace. While this may be of minimal concern with a proper spark screen or glass doors covering the opening of the hearth, it does not appear either of these were in place in your home. I am quite shocked by your admission of placing a blanket over the hearth opening with burning embers inside. You are lucky you woke up only to smoke and not a raging fire caused by a burning blanket! If the blanket was charred, that may be the source of the smoke, but I doubt that was the case. In future, you should either put the fire completely out and close the damper if you don't want cold air coming down the chimney or buy some ceramic glass doors for your fireplace. I am surprised you understand that as the fire dwindles and the draft subsides, cold air may come down the chimney, but not that it may blow a hot ember against a highly combustible blanket placed across the opening. In fact, the air restrictive properties of the blanket may cause the draft to end abruptly, causing a sudden back-draft. This alone could be the cause of major smoke intrusion into the home if the fire was still smoking.
The next concern I have is about smoke detectors. If you have enough smoke to alert your senses while sleeping, why were the smoke alarms not blaring? You should have a minimum of one smoke detector on each floor of the house and these should be checked regularly to ensure the batteries or power supply is working.
As for the cause of the smoke, it may be due to one or more factors. The last few days, we have been experiencing very strong winds, blowing snow and a dramatic change in weather. The change in weather may include a significant change in barometric pressure, which combined with the high winds, may have caused your chimney to back-draft and blow smoke into your home. Also, the wind may have blown snow over the HRV intake or exhaust hood due to the proximity to the ground. If either were blocked, the HRV would not operate properly, possibly causing negative pressure in your home relative to the outside. If so, back-drafting of the chimney is almost a certainty as the home tries to draw air inside from any possible opening in the building envelope. That is almost certainly where the smoke is coming from.
No safety issue is more serious than smoke and fire safety in a home. Wood fires should always be contained within certified fireplaces or wood stoves, installed with the proper clearances to combustibles. That includes anything placed near the hearth that may catch fire, even if the fire is almost out. Always extinguish the fire before leaving it unattended, unless you have proper glass or other doors completely covering the front of the unit. If you are concerned about cold air coming down your chimney, extinguish the remaining embers with water and close the flue, before retiring to bed. That way you will not only ensure you won't wake up smelling smoke, but also that you will wake up!
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Dandruff shampoo tackles tricky stain
QUESTION: A red candle dripped on my 40-year-old white linen tablecloth and stuck to the table pad underneath. I have tried freezing the wax pad. What can I do to remove the wax without leaving any redness?
Jeannette, Selkirk
ANSWER: Some messes are more difficult to clean than others. White wax is easy to clean but coloured wax is tricky; smear the area with Head and Shoulders dandruff shampoo before freezing. After fabric is frozen use a plastic putty knife to scrape away the wax. Next spray the area with fabric spot remover before washing (according to the directions). If the stain remains, pour lemon juice onto the area and sprinkle it with cream of tartar. Leave in the sun for a day and rewash. Repeat until stain is gone. Or use RIT dye remover according to the directions on the box to whiten the tablecloth.
QUESTION: I have an old torchiere floor lamp which I really like, but it uses a tri-light bulb with a large base. Since the new spiral bulbs came on the market I cannot find tri-light bulbs to replace the burnt-out one. I phoned Manitoba Hydro and was told they no longer make largebase bulbs. Do you have any ideas? Should I hang onto my "antique" torchiere lamp with hopes of someday getting a bulb? The way it is now, there's no use in donating it to anyone as it is worthless without a bulb. Thank-you.
Anne, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Although I think donating the lamp is a nice idea, you are right, the lamp needs a bulb. In many cases, you can convert torchiere floor lamps to use a more energy-efficient compact fluorescent bulb. Using a 30- to 60-watt fluorescent bulb is safer and more energy-efficient. For this project you may feel more comfortable hiring an experienced handy person to help you. You will need basic tools such as: screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, electrical tape, wire nuts, and a drill (for drilling new holes if the existing ones are not ideally located). The parts you need should be available from your local hardware store. You can buy an energy-efficient compact fluorescent bulb with the attached adapter, rated at 30 watts with a light output of 2,000 lumens, a shallow conventional porcelain bulb socket, and a rotary on-off switch. The total cost is about $20.00 plus labour. Lamp adapters are often sold as kits; if possible take the lamp into the hardware store when you go.
QUESTION: I read your column in the Winnipeg Free Press every time it is published. I, being a practical person, find your solutions and remedies very knowledgeable to read and pass on. First of all, I would like to know where to purchase your books. Secondly, can you tell me how to get barn smell out of coveralls? I have tried washing them in cold water, soap and salt (and vinegar). I never put them in the dryer but instead hang them on the line.
Samantha, Winnipeg
ANSWER: My favourite remedy for zapping foul odours from fabrics is washing soda and hot water. It is true that cold water is a smart choice for laundry. However, for tough smells and stains nothing beats the added power of heat. Hot water itself adds to the cleaning power without the addition of extra detergents or chemicals. Hot water once in a while also keeps the washing-machine interior clean and reduces buildup of mould, mildew and odour. For tough smells and stains, boil machine-washable fabrics in a stainless-steel pot on the stove with water and washing soda. My three books are difficult to find in stores. They can be ordered online.
www.householdsolutions.org
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Check seal if countertop seams are lifting
QUESTION: I work for a company that builds new homes. On a regular basis, we are getting calls and emails from our homeowners stating that their countertops are lifting at the seam. Upon sending for the trade who installed it to assess it, the answer is always the same: "It's water damage."
This means I then have to send a letter to the homeowner telling them that it's not covered by our warranty, as it happened by their own hand. The problem is that, most of the time, I don't believe the trade. I don't know a lot about countertops, but what I do know is that the seams should be sealed enough that water can't get in. It's happening so often and I can't imagine homeowners pouring mass amounts of water on their countertops. I also don't think the homeowners are leaving sopping wet rags on the seams of their countertops, or whatever it is that the cabinetry trade is suggesting. So lately I'm feeling like we are really screwing the homeowners over by denying warranty on this. What's your take on this? -- P.B.
ANSWER: My "take" on this situation is that both the installer and you are correct. The swelling seam is likely due to water on the counter. But the seam should be glued and sealed properly to avoid this, unless the homeowner is not being diligent in wiping up standing water.
Based on the detail in your question, I am assuming that you are talking about post-formed laminate countertops. These are very popular due to the durability and relatively low cost in relation to other materials such as tiles or granite. These are typically composed of a particleboard core which is covered with plastic laminate. The laminate is heat-formed and bonded to the core with special adhesives. The particleboard is laminated and shaped to provide an integral nosing and backsplash.
This configuration creates an exceptionally well-sealed countertop that prevents moisture intrusion and damage at the front and backsplash. While the laminate surface is highly water-resistant, the particleboard core is exactly the opposite and may easily swell if it remains wet for a relatively short period of time.
The only weak link in this system is at the ends and mitred corners. Because of the nature of this product, right-angle corners are mitred at approximate 45 degrees to allow a tight joint and keep the esthetic appeal of the laminate pattern. These mitres are normally cut in the factory, using precise saws with very sharp blades to minimize chipping of the laminate. Once mitred, the undersides of the angled sections are grooved to allow installation of steel clamps that pull the corner together after assembly.
The assembly of the finished countertop is normally done on site in the new kitchen, due to the difficulty of transporting right-angle countertops. This also allows a precise fit to the cabinets and surrounding walls. If this assembly is not done properly, water leakage into the mitred corner will cause swelling and damage.
It takes a properly trained and skilled carpenter or technician to assemble and seal a mitred corner. The countertop must be fitted and the mitred angle glued, clamped and installed before the glue sets up. If this process is not completed in this limited time-frame, the glue may let go and the mitred joint will not be properly set.
The wood glue normally used to bond the opposite sides of the mitre together is the first part of the sealing process. If a good, tight joint is achieved, the glue will prevent damage to the particleboard from water spilled on the seam.
Even if this first step is done properly, there is one additional requirement to prevent water penetration of the seam. There are specially made "seam fill" compounds available from the laminate manufacturers that are designed to fill the small gap between the laminate, which is almost unavoidable after installation. These come in a range of colours and with instruction manuals for exact colour-mixing combinations to match the multitude of available laminate patterns. The seam-fillers should be applied within a few days of countertop installation to prevent water and dirt penetration into the seams.
My guess is that the installers of the countertops in your homes may be forgoing this final step or improperly installing the seam fill. It's a little tricky to mix the colours properly and apply this material without overfilling the seam, but experienced countertop installers should have no problem with this step. These technicians can do such a good job that the seams will be almost invisible after completion. If the seams are highly visible once your kitchen contractors have left, they likely have not done a proper job.
The final possibility is in the manufacturing process of the countertop. Several years ago, one large local manufacturer had problems with the laminate lifting from the round nosing and backsplash of hundreds of countertops after a few years of use. This was found to be due to defective adhesive, and the manufacturer repaired many of these on site at their expense.
It's possible that your supplier of countertops is experiencing a similar problem with adhesive or core material, enabling the seam to lift after being mitred. This may be more likely if your company purchases all its countertops from the same manufacturer. It would be wise to contact the manufacturer and have them send a service representative to several of your customers' homes to inspect the counters and see if there is indeed a defect in the product, or if the problem is due to poor installation.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358, or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Chase away wood-stove smell with kitty litter
QUESTION: Our wood stove smells even when not in use. We have cleaned it but on cool days it tends to carry the same odour as it does after a fire. Any suggestions? Lucash (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: As long as you are sure that your stove and pipe are clean and that there is no creosote buildup, I have one easy solution to try. Open the doors and sprinkle a liberal amount of kitty litter on the surface. Close the doors and the smell will quickly disappear. Remove kitty litter before use.
Feedback from Lucash:
I have had kitty litter in my wood stove for two weeks and the smell is gone. Thank you.
QUESTION: Let me start by giving you an update on my last problem: The bleach and TSP solution worked on my egg-stained stucco. I had to scrub and rinse a couple of times, but the stain is barely visible. Thanks so much.
I have another question. My son recently moved into an apartment with older, wooden kitchen cupboards. Some of these have quite a strong odour. For example, the cupboard where he keeps his glasses smells strongly of some spice. Not really offensive, but not what he wants to smell when he gets his juice in the morning. When he moved in, we washed the cupboards with a cleaner, hoping to remove the smell, but it is still very noticeable. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks, Kate (Rosenort, Man.)
ANSWER: There are several options for cleaning cupboards, both inside and out. Begin with the easiest and work your way up to more aggressive solutions. Regular cleaning is key.
Combine Dawn dish soap and water, then use an abrasive cloth to scrub wood along the grain. Or clean cupboards with Murphy's Oil Soap, scrub and rinse. Or use the following 'Mother Hubbard's Cupboard Cleaner' recipe: Combine one to two cups vinegar, one cup ammonia (optional), half-cup baking soda and two gallons water. Cover hands with rubber gloves and draw a small amount onto a sponge, wipe each cupboard (along the grain to prevent streaking).
Apply olive oil once a month to protect wood. Apply car wax every six months, let dry and buff. Or clean cupboards with T.S.P. (trisodium phosphate), rinse well. Test all solutions on an inconspicuous area first.
If the smell persists, lightly sand and then clean with 'Mother Hubbard's Cupboard Cleaner' recipe. More serious options are to paint or stain inside cupboards or apply Mactac as shelf liners, but you will likely not need to resort to these.
QUESTION: Somewhere I read that there is a way to stabilize whipping cream so that there is no separation if it isn't all used at the same time. I thought it was in your Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions book but I have not been able to locate it. Help? Thank you. Your books make great gifts. Edna (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: The following are tricks that you can use at home to stabilize whipped cream.
Trick 1: Add two teaspoons non-fat dry milk powder for each cup of cream before you whip it.
Trick 2: Add gelatin to whipped cream. Soften the gelatin by sprinkling it on cold water and waiting a bit. Next heat the mixture enough to get it to dissolve (keep it below boiling point). Allow it to cool to roughly body temperature, and then incorporate it into the whipped cream. If you allow the gelatin to cool too much, it will set into one large glump (that's my new word) the moment you stir it into the whipped cream. If it is the right point, you will be able to incorporate some amount of it into the whipped cream without causing the cream to deflate. Gelatin gives whipping cream a firm, mousse-like texture and because gelatin stabilizes the whipped cream, it does not weep.
FABULOUS BAG LUNCH TIPS:
* Keep yogurt tubes in the freezer for a healthy treat. Popping a frozen yogurt tube into a lunchbox keeps things cool till the lunch bell rings, and the yogurt's ready to eat by then, too. You can do the same with container yogurts; it's almost like eating a slushy.
* If taco salad is a favourite, you can pack the meat mixture tossed with the shredded cheese, tomatoes, and chopped romaine lettuce in a plastic container. At lunchtime, your child can add crunchy, reduced-fat tortilla chips and a little light dressing.
* Make a refreshing dipping sauce for baby carrots, red bell pepper slices, broccoli crowns or celery sticks. Stir one quarter of a shredded cucumber into plain yogurt. Add chopped, fresh dill, then salt and pepper to taste. Pack the dip in an air-tight, sealable plastic container.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, MB, ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
Finding a better way to showcase the grey
DEAR Marc: My husband has horrible taste in design. I have been begging him to upgrade the colours and furnishings in our living room for years and he has finally agreed to the renovation, which is great but he is insisting that we paint our entire living room in dark, almost black grey which I think will look too dark and depressing. Help! -- Helen
Dear Helen: Congratulations on your recent venture into the world of design. I tend to look forward to colour selection in all my projects. I love how colour can bring forth emotion and passion and turn a dull space into a wonderful cheerful room with the use of certain hues. Grey has been seen for years as a faux pas when trying to create a warm and inviting space but in 2010 that is no longer the case.
To create a designer space, you can use your husband's colour selection in your living room but I would suggest going for a more middle-range shade of grey such as Gray Shower (2125-30) by Benjamin Moore. This particular shade of grey is dark enough to please your husband's taste but will not overpower the room's design. I would also suggest choosing your favourite colour out of the following hues: bright red, deep violet, lime green or bright orange; and using your selection as the room's accent colour.
The accent colour can be applied to pillows, a throw, window coverings, or in an area rug.
Be sure to also consider upgrading your lighting since darker colours such as grey tend to absorb light, which is why grey has a bad reputation for being dark and depressive. The use of a larger light fixture exuding more light will uplift the overall mood of the space.
With this recipe for success, I foresee you and your husband enjoying your living room's design for years to come.
-- Canwest News Service
Marc Atiyolil, celebrity designer and home trend expert is the editor-in-chief of Canadian Home Trends magazine. To submit a question for Marc Atiyolil, visit www.CanadianHomeTrends.ca