Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: It's the attic leaking, not the plumbing stack
QUESTION: I was recently in my attic, which is a place I had never ventured before. I discovered a fair amount of frost build-up in the attic. This is something I was told was not unusual for a house built in the sixties. I searched for leaks into the attic and fixed an obvious leak problem but was rather surprised to find a second potential problem. Over the bathroom there is a thicker frost build-up, which gets thicker over the shower and progressively thicker the closer you get to the plumbing stack.
I removed the insulation around the plumbing stack, which is blown-in fibreglass that was upgraded only a few years ago. I then discovered that the first two inches of the plumbing stack closest to the attic floor was dry but the remaining part of the plumbing stack in the attic, about six to eight inches, was covered with a thick sheet of ice. This ice was right up to where the stack goes through to the roof.
Although I scraped off some of the frost from the wood on the underside of roof, I didn't attempt to hack off the ice for fear of damaging the stack. Although I had a hard time seeing through the ice, I think I could see a bolt or screw and there was something that looked like putty or tar on the stack.
Is this normal to see this much ice on a plumbing stack inside the attic space? Could the plumbing stack be broken or leaking and contributing to the frost build-up? There is no visible ice when you look inside the plumbing stack from on top of the roof. I once asked a plumbing company to extend the plumbing stack higher, as I worried about snow and leaves getting stuck in it. They refused, saying that you should never mess with a plumbing stack, so I didn't pursue it. I should also mention one other thing. I could not see a vapour barrier in the attic, though it does have a full wood floor, so could the vapour barrier be between the drywall and ceiling floor? Could one add vapour barrier to an attic or just in the attic above the bathroom? I appreciate any advice you can give me.
Thanks. Jenna Watersky, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The first problem with your attic has been properly identified by your removal of insulation from around the stack on the floor of your attic. This may be one of several areas where warm, moist air from your home can leak into the attic, which is the major source of the ice. When this warm air hits the freezing cold metal surface of the stack in the attic, as it cools by traveling through the insulation, it will immediately condense and freeze on the exposed pipe. This will be compounded by other moisture in the attic from other points of air leakage which may be causing the extra-thick ice.
It's no surprise that the area above your bathroom is the area of thickest frost build-up, because the bathroom is the area in your home that produces the largest amount of moisture in the form of water vapour. After a shower or bath, the relative humidity in this room will be at or above 100 per cent, even in the warm bathroom. If this moist air makes its way into the attic through openings in the building envelope, it will take only a small drop in temperature to reach the dew point.
A proper air/vapour barrier may not be installed in your home and attempts to add one now is not the best use of your energy. Sealing up the area around the stack where it penetrates the ceiling/attic floor with caulking or polyurethane foam will prevent excessive air leakage. It's doubtful that you have seen damage or a fastener that has compromised the integrity of the pipe, more likely some solder or roofing tar. Nevertheless, it may be a good idea to insulate the pipe with moisture-resistant pipe wrap or more foam to keep it warmer and prevent condensation.
Also, checking any bathroom or other exhaust fans and ducting for leaks or missing insulation may provide more answers. Ensuring that your attic access hatch is properly insulated and weatherstripped is also a must. Finally, finding and sealing any other protrusions in the bathroom ceiling like electrical junction boxes or wall top plates will minimize moisture intrusion into the attic.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Bring in ammonia for tough cleaning Solutions
QUESTION: I read with interest your hints in the Winnipeg Free Press. I need your help because I washed walls this week with my usual cleaner, Lysol Liquid; now there are terrible streaks over everything I've washed. This has never happened before. I rewashed with clean water only, and after drying washed again with weak vinegar and water solution, to no avail. I used the same method with Lysol Liquid in another room with the same paint and had no problem. Any suggestions to help with this mess? I'm afraid to do the rest of the walls! -- Heather, Winnipeg
ANSWER: If the cleaner was used on walls near the kitchen, it is likely that grease is the culprit for streaks. If those walls won't clean properly with plain old dish soap and water or cheap shampoo and water, it's time to call in one of the fiercest soldiers for this cleaning war. Use non-sudsy, non-detergent ammonia. Ventilate well and mix one to two cups ammonia per gallon of water. If you use cool rather than warm water, fewer fumes will drift your way. Another option is TSP (trisodium phosphate) and water, which has fewer fumes than ammonia.
QUESTION: I burnt a bag of microwave popcorn in the microwave very badly (I did follow directions, but apparently the popcorn was still in the microwave too long -- my bad for not sticking around to watch it pop). The inside of what was a white microwave is now yellow and smelly. I tried to wipe out the inside with baking soda right away -- there was a sticky film inside the entire microwave -- but it remained yellow, even after a wipe-down. However, the smoky smell is the worst challenge at the moment. I've unplugged the microwave, filled it with crushed newspaper (you once suggested that to remove a smell from a freezer) and put in a box of baking soda. Do you think this will help? How long should I keep it in there and closed? Should I replace the paper after a few days? Or should I give up and go buy a new micro? And do you think there is any way of getting the stain out of the interior? It must be stained from the popcorn flavouring. I've been airing out the house and cleaning it and using candles to get the smoky smell out of the house. Any other suggestions? Thanks. -- Glynis, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You may want to carry the microwave into the garage or shed so the smell is out of the house, but first the corners of the microwave need a thorough cleaning. Heat lemon juice or vinegar in the microwave until it boils over and then wipe out the interior. Or into a bowl, combine vanilla and water and heat until it boils over; or another option is to combine lemon slices, vinegar, vanilla, dish soap and water in a bowl and heat. Alternatively, combine and heat baking soda and water. If the odour persists, store coffee grounds in a bowl in the microwave to absorb excess odours. In terms of the newspaper trick, leave the newspaper for about one week before removal. The newspaper does not need to be changed during this time. It is likely that the colour damage is permanent.
QUESTION: I was wondering how to clean vertical blinds in my living and dining room. They are a fabric, but the weights are sewn in and it will be tricky to clean them. Any suggestions? I have vacuumed them, but some of the slats hang over the floor vents and have blackened with time (not super noticeable, but I see it). Thanks for any suggestions you may have. -- Pat, Winnipeg
P.S. Your third book is excellent. Many thanks.
ANSWER: Sounds like it's time to add water. While vacuuming is great for regular cleaning, you will need to bathe your blinds every now and then. To do this, remove vertical blinds and lay them in the bathtub with heavy-duty detergent, washing soda (or borax) and hot water. Scrub and hang to dry. Some people toss vertical blinds inside a pillowcase and into the washing machine, but I have used this method and was disappointed with the results (shape was affected). Another option is to lay them on the grass in the summer and hose them down with a garden hose. Lastly, feedback from readers has suggested putting fabric vertical blinds into the dishwasher because they don't move around inside the machine and clean up nicely. If you choose this method, do not add detergent; use water only.
Fabulous Tips of the Week:
* Prevent car doors from becoming frozen shut by spraying cooking spray on the rubber seals around car doors. Spread with a microfibre cloth.
* For people who love to knit, take a cork and place it on the pointed ends of your knitting needles when you lay your knitting aside. There will no longer be dropped stitches to worry about.
( Remove paint from hands by rubbing them with butter or baby oil. Rinse and wash with soap and water.
I enjoy your questions and tips. Keep them coming!
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestselling Household Solutions series. Her website is www.householdsolutions.org. You can contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, MB, ROA 0C0.
Renovation & Design
MIKE HOLMES: How your house may be killing you
Every day, we are exposed to thousands of chemicals and toxic elements — in our homes. We’re not sure of the long-term health impacts of all of them, but some are very clear:
Lead
In many municipalities, lead is still found in drinking water. This is usually found in houses built before 1950 when lead was used in plumbing supply lines, or in the solder used to connect copper pipes.
There is no safe exposure for lead, which can cause serious damage, especially to developing children. Lead is more easily absorbed into growing bodies, therefore, infants, children and pregnant women are more vulnerable to lead exposure.
If you suspect you have lead water lines, you need to have your water tested. Call your municipality. The pipes will need to be replaced — you’ll be responsible for the part that is on your property, between the property line and your meter. The city has to cover the property line to the street service lines.
Until you are able to get your lead pipes replaced, flush the standing water out before you drink it. Run the water for at least five minutes — that will remove the stale water that’s been sitting in the pipes. But remember, it’s not a permanent fix.
Lead is also found in oil-based paint. If your house has paint from around the 1960s or before, there’s a good chance there is lead in it.
Lead can enter the air in a house when surfaces covered with lead-based paint are scraped, sanded or heated with an open flame during paint-stripping procedures. Once it’s in the air, it can be easily inhaled. Lead particles freed in fine dust or vapour can also settle into carpet fibres and fabrics, then can be re-circulated by normal household cleaning such as sweeping and dusting.
You can buy test kits for lead paint at most building supply stores.
If you suspect you have lead-based paint it’s best to leave it undisturbed if it’s in good condition, and there’s little possibility that it will be eaten by children. Otherwise, you should replace the painted surface. It’s better to tear out wood trim than risk releasing that lead into the indoor air.
Asbestos
At one time, asbestos was thought to be a near-perfect building material. It’s common — a fibrous material found in rocks and soil all over the world — strong, durable, a good insulator, and it’s fire-resistant. Also, it’s versatile. Combined with other materials, asbestos was used in floors, walls, ceiling tiles, exterior cladding and fire-retardant materials for heating and electrical systems.
In the middle part of the last century, asbestos was widely used. More recently it has been linked with cancer.
Once inhaled, asbestos fibres lodge in the lungs. Because the material is durable, it persists in the tissue and concentrates with repeated exposure.
The fibres can cling to clothing, tools and exposed flesh.
Asbestos can be found in older homes in many places: around pipes and furnaces as insulating jackets, some vinyl flooring material, ceiling tiles, exterior roofing, shingles, siding, some wallboards and even drywall compound. It might be mixed in with other materials and trowelled or sprayed around pipes, ducts and beams. It also can be found in patching compounds or gaskets in stoves, furnaces and ovens.
When remodelling an older home, activities such as hammering, drilling, sawing, sanding, vacuuming, scraping or scrubbing can dislodge small asbestos fibres. Extreme care should be exercised in handling, cleaning or working with material suspected of containing asbestos.
If you suspect you have asbestos in your home, call a qualified professional. You need to have it tested, and professionally removed. That is not just common sense, it’s the law.
Formaldehyde
More recently, formaldehyde has come under question. This is a colourless gas that is emitted by many construction materials and consumer products. It’s common in a lot of bindings — glues and resins — and it’s also found in preservatives. Formaldehyde was also an ingredient in a foam insulation that was very popular for home insulation in the 1960s.
When people started to retrofit their houses to make them more energy-efficient, many used something called urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI). Because it was a spray foam, it was easy to insulate an existing building and UFFI became popular. There were even government grants available to help pay for UFFI insulation. Formaldehyde has been found in another spray insulation product: RetroFoam.
Above-normal levels of formaldehyde in the home atmosphere can trigger asthma attacks in people who have this condition. Other health hazards linked to formaldehyde include skin rashes, watery eyes, and a burning sensation in the eyes, throat and nasal passages.
Materials containing formaldehyde were widely used in the construction of prefabricated and manufactured homes. It was especially prevalent in the manufacture of furniture and cabinets.
Regulators are aware of the dangers of formaldehyde and some places have strict regulations governing how much formaldehyde can be “off-gassed” by building materials.
Unlike lead and asbestos, formaldehyde sources reduce with age. The highest levels of formaldehyde happen during the first two years the construction material has been exposed to the air. This means the danger is greatest in new homes, and with new furniture. Most builders will be able to provide you with information about formaldehyde use in specific products.
— Canwest News Service
Catch Mike in his new series, Holmes Inspection, airing Thursdays at 8 p.m. ET/PT on HGTV. For more information visit www.hgtv.ca.
Do you have a question about home renovations? Email mikemakeitright.ca.
