Renovation & Design

Renovation & Design

Five simple steps to no-cost redecorating

"With all of this crisis in the financial markets and everything that is happening, people do not have a lot of money to throw around anymore. So, it's about making the most with what we have. And not going out and buying new things. And that's why I love redesign," Val Sharp, the Victoria-based founder of the Canadian Redesigners Association and author of The Art of Redesign: 5 Simple Steps to No-Cost Redecorating, explained in a telephone interview from the West Coast.

Proper placement is the key, Sharp said.

"I've walked into homes where they've had really expensive, beautiful things, and it looks like trash -- because it's not placed properly," she said.

"I've done homes where they had garage sale stuff, and you walked in and the place looked like they'd just been given a whole bunch of junk. And then, after we do the redesign, it's cosy and it's warm and it's inviting, and it speaks to who they are," she said. "We highlight the things that they love."

Sharp has taken the secrets she shares when training people who want to start their own interior redesign and home staging businesses and put them into a 160-page, paperback how-to guide.

The first of Sharp's five simple steps to no-cost redecorating is to take a real close look at who lives in the home and what their needs are.

So many people try to make their houses look like something out of a magazine, she pointed out, "and it's not about that. It's about having a home that works for you, that you can live in, that functions for you."

For example, if you never use your dining room, except once a year at Christmas, Sharp recommends turning the dining room into a kids' playroom, or an arts and crafts room, or something that works for you, so that you can be using that space all year round. And then once a year, turn it into a dining room for Christmas.

"Think about how the whole space can work for you -- because it's just a whole bunch of walls and floor space. Don't think of it as dining room, living room, kitchen, necessarily," she said.

Once you've done that, take everything out of the space, Sharp said. "Because what most people do is they leave their furniture where it is; they leave their art where it is; and they try to accessorize, and make their home work with accessories. And it will never ever work."

Or, people will try moving their furniture around, but still leave the art on the wall. But the art will dictate where the furniture placement goes, she said.

"So you truly need to take all the art off the walls, everything out of the space, and just get a clean slate perspective. And that's the most crucial step."

Then you can place all the furniture, Sharp said.

"You really have to chose a primary focal point. And if you don't have a natural primary focal point, like a fireplace, in the room, you need to create one," she said.

You can create one using a combination of furniture, art and accessories.

"You just want something visually powerful that says 'this is the main event in the room,'" Sharp explained. "And then you create a conversation area that faces that primary focal point."

Sharp offered the following tip: If you have a television in the room you're dealing with, placing the TV to the left or right of the primary focal point works perfectly because when the furniture is facing the primary focal point, it will also face the TV.

Next, you place the other pieces of furniture in the room. You want to make sure that everyone in the room has a place to put down a drink or a cup of tea, Sharp recommended.

"So you have to think function," she stressed.

Once you've placed all the furniture in the room, then you get to hang the art.

Something most people don't realize, Sharp pointed out, is that art is viewed from the seating position in every single space in the room, except the hallway and the foyer. Most art in most homes is hung much too high.

Don't just hang a random piece of art over a piece of furniture, Sharp said.

If it's a honey-gold buffet, for example, hang art that has honey gold tones in it. Or, if it's a pine, country-look buffet, you want the art to have a similar country theme.

"Same as if you're hanging art over a sofa. Pick up the colour tones in the sofa, or have art that works with the style of the sofa, the era," she added.

The rule of thumb is that art should be about two-thirds the width of the piece that it's hanging over -- and never more than the width of the furniture. Sharp recommends hanging art in collections as much as possible. Hang a pair, or three or more pictures together that all have the same theme or similar colour tones.

Once all your furniture is perfectly arranged -- and it's balanced and functional and works with the room -- and you have all the art hung, so that it's working with the furniture, then -- and not until then -- you can think about adding accessories. But your room should already feel amazing, and you shouldn't actually need to add any accessories, Sharp said.

"I'm just so tired of people throwing money away on accessories, when it doesn't say anything about them and who they are, but they saw it in a magazine and so they think they have to have it in their house and it's going to make their house fabulous," Sharp said.

Accessories should be used to help a space reflect who you are and your personality, she said. "You might add things you bought on your vacation, or a special gift somebody gave you that you really love, or something that brings back a memory of a very special time. Those are the things that are important."

Sharp has dedicated her book to the redesigners across North America who create "havens for healing" for women with ovarian cancer. To arrange a complimentary redesign of a room for a woman who's been diagnosed with ovarian cancer, contact the Canadian Redesigners Association at canadianredesigners.org.

The Art of Redesign costs $19.95. Sharp self-published the book, which is available at sharpredesigns.com or by contacting the author at vsharpshaw.ca.

-- Canwest News Service

Irene Seiberling
November 2

Renovation & Design

The colourful future of colours

When I got the news release on the new colour trends for 2009/2010 from Sico Paints, I have to admit that I was taken aback at first. The colour schemes are very different from anything we've seen in a long while. Surprising colour combinations like peach with fuchsia, mustard with teal blue, neon green with dark navy and electric blue with deep slate really push the envelope in the decorating arena. I had an immediate visceral reaction when I first saw these colour palettes, which was at first a little perplexing. The fact that the colour schemes reached me at such an emotional level piqued my interest. I think that they are on to something here.

Virtual reality technology has blurred the line between reality and fantasy, which is changing people's perspective of the world. The new colour mixes do have a fantasy quality about them which actually grows on you after a while. Over the next two years, expect the unexpected. These unusual colour combinations will be found not only in paint colour but also in furniture, wall coverings and accessories.

Consumers want a calm existence but also want a sense of optimism and freedom in their lives. In response, paint manufacturers are mixing calming pastels or earth tones with punches of vibrant colour providing a truly unique blend.

This room that is decorated in soft earth tones is given a twist with an accent wall of fuchsia behind the fireplace. At first I wasn't sure about the look but it has definitely grown on me. This room has a "modern urban" feel to it that is both relaxing and exciting at the same time. The fact that the hot pink colour has no relation to anything in the room (save perhaps for the subtle pink undertones in the furry carpet) makes it a daring choice. It's Texas meets teenager or the desert meets the tropics. It's just plain fun! If fuchsia is not for you, a punch of royal blue, brick red or lime green could easily work as well.

Another new trend is to use colour blocking to bring in geometrical interest to a room. Rather than painting a wall one colour, inspired designs in two or three tones are now the rage. The blank wall really is a canvas in this new era of creativity so you can turn your walls into an intricate part of the design rather than just a colour backdrop.

What's old is new again

Many of the colours in the new colour combos are brought back from a bygone era. That fuchsia wall for example reminds me of my childhood friends home from the 1970s. Her mom had just installed wall-to-wall fuchsia carpeting in the formal living room which was adorned with white French provincial furniture. It had the same feel then that our sample room has today. The difference is that now the colour experts are throwing in unexpected colours to the mix for truly inspired rooms.

Topping the list of Sico's most popular paint colour combos for 2009-2010 are:

Vibrant, saturated greens, blues or yellows mixed with dark, industrial tones that create a sophisticated and energetic yet tranquil decor, such as Sico's Pomelo (6101-54) bright yellow, Bold Blue (6022-83) deep navy, Basalt Grey (6208-63) slate, and Coastal Breeze (6199-31) complex grey.

Soft florals merged with deeper lively colours that deliver an intriguing, eclectic feel to a room, like Pale Chestnut (6072-52) peach, Nunavut (6181-83) brown, Betrothal (6035-63) fuchsia and Rice Flour (6180-21) lavender grey.

Rich green and yellow botanical hues combined with jeweled tones that create a healing, invigorating ambiance like Sico's Virgin Olive Oil (6102-44) bright yellow, Green Leaf (6140-73) green, Poetic Green (6165-31) mint and Chanterelle Beige (6185-31) grey.

Chalky whites and muted shades offset by strong purples and dark slate that emit a futuristic yet romantic air, such as Deep in Time (6174-73) purple, Mozart (6172-52) lilac, Rembrandt Brown (6177-41) lavender, and Time Passages (6174-11) white.

connieoliver@shaw.ca

Connie Oliver Room For Change
October 12

Renovation & Design

Homeowner on track to fix air pressure

The house has a natural gas fireplace on the main floor, a natural gas fireplace in the basement and a natural gas furnace. Any kind of operation requiring air, like the clothes dryer or furnace, seems to suck the air out of the basement and cause the strong smell and the feeling of negative pressure in the basement. We had our heating/cooling company drill a fresh-air intake which has helped with the clothes dryer problem and, to some extent, the furnace, although the basement is now quite cold as a result. More importantly, we are still left with the upstairs fans problem. Whenever I use the kitchen fan I open the kitchen window.

So far we have installed the fresh air intake, as mentioned, in the basement and insulated the pipes in the attic for the bathroom fans.

In your opinion, is the first problem a direct result of not running the bathroom fans? If so, what can we do to resolve this situation?

-- Melene and Don Sechman, e-mail

ANSWER -- The problem of negative air pressure in homes can be a difficult one to identify and correct but introduction of a fresh air intake in the basement, like you have done, is normally the first step. While the exhaust fans in your bathrooms & kitchen may contribute to the effects of low air pressure in your basement, this has little to do with the dripping fans. You have already taken two good steps toward correcting both issues, which are somewhat related, but are not directly responsible for each other.

Negative air pressure in a home is caused when the amount of air leaving the home is significantly more that that entering at the same time. This is a phenomenon often seen in newer homes, due to the energy efficient building practices of the last couple of decades. Older homes generally have minimal insulation and air/vapour barriers in the exterior walls or ceilings and poorly sealed windows. Because of this, sufficient of amounts of fresh air are normally infiltrated into the living space to compensate for that forced out by exhaust fans, dryers, fireplaces, furnaces, etc. This infiltration of cold air will cause furnaces to fire more frequently, driving up heating costs, but will normally equalize the air pressure between the inside and outside of the home. As upgrades are made to the older homes such as newer windows, increased insulation in attics and walls, and high-efficiency, direct-vent furnaces, the building envelope becomes significantly tighter, often leading to a significant reduction of incoming air. That is likely what is occurring in your home.

Bringing in air from the exterior through a fresh air intake is often effective in equalizing the air pressure in the home. This new air source will replace some of the air that used to leak through the older components. Sometimes, the intake duct for this new source of air may not be large enough, to effectively equalize the pressure differential, or may be improperly located. You think that this may be the situation in your home, and you are likely right on target. While this new intake will draw considerable air when needed, it may not come into play until your fans are activated or the dryer turned on. This may be too far away from the problem area and not effective enough to stop the back venting of your fireplaces.

One simple solution that may help address this air imbalance is to run your furnace fan on continuous low speed. That will force the air throughout the entire home, and may help minimize pressure differentials on different levels while helping with the cold basement issues caused by the new fresh air duct. This still may not be completely effective, so another alternative may improve things dramatically and also help with the cold air infiltration into the basement. Installation of a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) will not only bring in fresh air, but also exhaust stale house air, without the associated cold draft in the basement. This unit will also help control high humidity in the home, which may help with your first problem. I think you have the bathroom ceiling fan issue figured out and insulating the ducts may keep the damp, exhausted bathroom air from cooling before it escapes the roof of your house. This first problem is likely caused by melting frost, which normally forms in the uninsulated ducts above the fan housing, due to the rapid cooling of the steamy air from the bathroom. Since this air is so high in moisture content it takes a very slight drop in temperature before it condenses, which can lead to significant frost buildup inside the ducts in the winter. When the weather warms, this frost melts and runs back down inside the home.

Contrary to your theorizing question, running the bathroom fans actually increases the amount of moist air entering the cold ducts in the attic, increasing the likelihood of frost accumulation. You may be leaving the fans on a little long after a shower, but the real issue is the uninsulated ducting combined with the air movement in the home. The good news is that installation of a proper ventilation system, or HRV, will help with both the leaking ducts and the back drafting. The HRV will help control the relative humidity in the home, reducing the need to leave your bathroom exhaust fans on so long, while equalizing the pressure in the home, if it is properly installed and balanced.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB., R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz
October 12

Renovation & Design

It's a good time to winterize your basement

As children, we were too scared to venture down there much.

Ghouls and goblins aside, however, a basement also can be scary when it comes to home maintenance. Basements are vulnerable to intrusion by water, damage by rot and structural pests such as termites. Many provide easy access to rodents and insects. Most houses have a maze of exposed plumbing pipes, heating ducts and exhaust flues. Since by design basements tend to leak, one of the most important components in a basement is a sump pump.

As Halloween and cold weather approach, it's time to turn attention to the basement and the various systems it houses. Here are some tasks that can make for a safer, more comfortable home, without frightening leaks, squeaks or monster utility bills.

1. Have your furnace inspected and serviced by a professional heating contractor. Make sure it is operating safely, and also that you're getting the best bang for your energy buck. The pro will adjust burners, check the thermostat, change filters, confirm pressures and perform other cleaning and maintenance.

2. Leaking heat ducts can be a major source of energy loss. Look for separating ducts at joints and connections to equipment. Although duct tape is excellent for many jobs, sealing leaking ducts is not one of them. Pros use a heavy metallic tape or a paint-on elastomeric sealer.

3. Insulation around heat ducts is an important part of their efficiency. If the ducts are old, the insulation may contain asbestos, a health hazard. Health Canada says that if asbestos fibres are enclosed or tightly bound in a product, for example in asbestos siding or asbestos floor tiles, there are no significant health risks. Asbestos poses health risks only when fibres are present in the air that people breathe. If you are concerned, have it analyzed by a qualified professional, who can be found by looking up experts in "asbestos abatement/removal." If ducts are not insulated, insulate them. If they are insulated and the material is not firmly affixed, use a spray adhesive to anchor it.

4. Check for leaks at all plumbing pipes, and repair or replace leaking ones. Pay special attention to the pipes attached to the hot and cold ports on the water heater; they are prime candidates for corrosion.

5. Carbon monoxide is a colourless, odourless gas that results from improper combustion by fuel-burning appliances. In high concentrations it could be lethal. To prevent any carbon monoxide in the basement, make sure furnaces, stoves, fireplaces, water heaters, boilers, gas dryers and the like are operating at peak efficiency and are properly vented. If you don't have a carbon monoxide alarm in your basement, install one. If you do, test it frequently and make sure it works.

6. Caulk any cracks in concrete walls with a high-quality flexible caulk. Cracks and gaps that allow water to enter should be filled with hydraulic cement.

7. Minimize water entry by installing rain gutters and downspouts that discharge well away from the foundation. Soil surrounding the home should slope away from the foundation to ensure proper drainage.

8. Any water that does make its way into the basement should be collected by a sump system and pumped safely to the exterior. Be sure the sump and pump are clean and working. Excessive water buildup may require installing a more comprehensive water collection and ejection system.

9. If your washer and dryer are in the basement, replace any rubber water-supply hoses with braided, stainless steel ones to prevent burst hoses and flooding. Save energy and prevent a potential fire by disconnecting the dryer duct and removing lint buildup.

--Associated Press

James and Morris Carey
October 12

Renovation & Design

Tripping the light fantastic

Others talk about their bling value, the touch of glitz and glamour they instantly provide.

The fact is more people are dressing up their homes with chandeliers. And they're hanging them all over the place -- in dining rooms, bathrooms, bedrooms, hallways and children's rooms.

"I've even used one in a walk-in closet," says Ernst Hupel of 2H Interior Design.

The chandeliers come not only in traditional designs, but also in very modern ones -- some with shades, others made of black glass -- as well as transitional designs that bridge the gap between old and new.

"Today's chandelier is not like your grandmother's crystal chandelier," says Jimmy Yu, owner of Living Lighting.

Sharon Tobin installed a transitional-style crystal chandelier surrounded by an organza drum shade in the dining room of her west-end Ottawa home. Since Tobin's home mixes traditional with contemporary furniture, her chandelier ties the two looks together.

Her home was part of a house and garden tour this year, and she found the chandelier seemed to attract as much attention from visitors as the plants. People kept turning it on and off to see the lighting effects. And the lighting effects, she says, are stunning -- particularly at night, when the sparkling chandelier light reflects off mirrors on the walls.

It's that pop, that glitzy look, that attracts people to chandeliers.

"I think we all want a bit of bling in our lives," says Hupel, adding that he's seeing chandeliers all over. For example, he decorated a downtown Ottawa loft that couldn't have been more modern, yet included a crystal chandelier over the dining room table.

"Bedrooms are big for chandeliers," says Hera Arevian of Arevco Lighting. "And people like them in bathrooms."

One word of caution, however: some building codes do not allow chandeliers to be hung directly over bathtubs.

"I'm seeing them in master bedrooms and little girls' rooms," says Carol Gunn, model home decorator for Domicile and Holitzner Homes.

Hupel says one reason chandeliers are popular is that, because they come in various sizes, shapes and designs, they allow homeowners to put some personality into an otherwise neutral or classic decorating scheme.

In some ways, he says, they are almost like artwork; not just lighting fixtures, but something you hang to showcase your tastes or to get people talking.

"I like the element of surprise. Sometimes using a chandelier in a modern space feels like a piece of art. It's personality. And that's where the trend in overall design is going. You add some of your personality."

And now there are many styles to choose from.

There's the traditional look, of course -- the crystal chandelier that has always been associated with luxury and wealth. But the traditional look has been joined by a wide range of new cousins -- pink chandeliers, rectangular chandeliers, chandeliers made of black glass, chandeliers dressed up with shades.

"The lampshade look has been very in," says Arevian. "We're selling a lot more modern fixtures than traditional chandeliers."

Gunn is seeing all sorts of new shade designs, including mesh iron shades, fabric shades, sequined shades, or even shades made with tiny crystal balls. Sometimes, the shades are used as collars around the chandeliers.

Prices are as varied as the styles.

You can get some hardware store models for $150 to $250, or pay significantly more for glittery crystal.

"It's like jewelry. We have some at over $10,000, and you can easily spend $4,000," says Yu.

Hupel cautions his clients against spending too much on a trendy chandelier they may tire of in a few years.

"If you stick to a classic model, it will be timeless. If you are going to spend a lot of money, research the crystals and make sure you love it."

Keep your lifestyle in mind, too. Gunn has a pet parakeet that loves to perch on her chandelier and peck at his reflection in the crystals.

Of course, that means Gunn also finds herself cleaning the chandelier often. There's no getting away from the fact that chandeliers, with all their intricacies and hanging pieces of glass or crystal, are not easy to clean.

Arevian says it happens all the time: A female buyer takes one look at a fancy chandelier and says one word: "No!" That's because, however beautiful, she knows it's going to have to be cleaned regularly. And she knows she's going to be the one doing the cleaning.

The best way to clean a crystal chandelier is the old-fashioned way: Take the crystals off one at a time, soak them in lukewarm soapy water, rinse, and dry with a lint-free cloth.

No one says it's easy. Arevian knows from experience that it can be particularly hard to remember where each piece goes when putting the chandelier back together. She suggests taking photos before cleaning.

There are other options.

Arevian recommends feather dusters. "That's the easiest way to maintain them."

There are also spray products that eliminate the need for physically handling the pieces.

Yu prefers a product called Sparkle Plenty, which can be sprayed on some chandeliers. Coat the chandelier with the liquid spray, and all the dust and dirt drip off onto a cloth below. When the chandelier dries, it's clean.

Arevian doesn't recommend sprays because some metal finishes can be damaged.

Sometimes the simplest thing to do is change the bulbs, says Yu. "Half the time, it's the light bulbs that are dirty."

Simplest of all, he says, is to opt for one chandelier model that can be run through the dishwasher.

-- Canwest News Service

Daniel Drolet
October 12

Renovation & Design

Home Heist hosts take insights to new book

With the launch of the second season of their HGTV series, Colin and Justin's Home Heist, the quick-witted Scottish designers are bringing their humour and insights on the do's and don't of home design with a new companion book to the show.

Colin and Justin's Home Heist Style Guide (Penguin Canada) provides a how-to to on home decor from furnishings to how best to incorporate lighting and colour.

McAllister and Ryan, who have been together 22 years and recently tied the knot, got up at 3 a.m. over eight months to squeeze in time to work on the book while juggling other projects.

The vivid images showcased, including before-and-after shots of renovated interiors, will be familiar to Home Heist viewers: they were photographed during the filming of the series where they tackled 26 homes, including 100 rooms.

"What's nice about that is that you as a viewer, you've watched the program, you know the style of home, maybe you feel it's your style of home... so it's a bit more personal," McAllister said in an interview recently. "Even if you haven't seen any of the programs, it's a guide of how to create the perfect home."

With concerns swirling about the economy, homeowners considering renovation are likely looking for how best to stretch their dollar while beautifying their space.

McAllister and Ryan encourage people to visit sale rooms, auctions, garage sales and discount stores to hunt for bargains.

It's advice they also take to heart as Ryan spoke of how they scored a $1,000 designer table at HomeSense for only $175. They also detail in their book how they sold the cabinetry and appliances in their Toronto kitchen online and bought a plasma TV with the earnings.

They're also fans of refurbishing new and old finds. In the second season, they visit a clearance store and purchase a dark espresso wooden credenza with scratches all over it for $400. By sanding it, spray-painting it white and adding new handles, which cost about $100, "it looks like we've spent $5,000 on it," McAllister said.

"Don't feel that just because you're making something over that it's a cheap alternative," he said.

"It's something you should be proud of. It's the best form of recycling if you take something that was unwanted and turn it into something that was wanted, or maybe you've got something at home that you want to change."

With individuals seeking to curtail their spending, Ryan said it's also more important than ever to think carefully before you buy, adhering to the mantra "think twice, buy once."

While infusing their style into their surroundings, McAllister said individuals should resist the temptation to take things too literally.

"If you like country style, I don't want you putting wagon wheels on your wall," McAllister."Be inspired by maybe using the colour palette of the desert ... or a beautiful timber floor and try to be a bit more intelligent in how you actually translate your loves for your home."

--Canadian Press

Lauren La Rose
October 5

Renovation & Design

Hot ideas for warmer space

DEAR Miriam -- I recently designed and decorated a series of new homes imbued with a winning combination of my favourite traditional and modern elements. Even though many homes today are being built without a formal dining area due to space restrictions, I believe if you can have on, do it. We create our best memories around the table when we celebrate with family and friends.

The dining area shown here radiates with a welcome, lively spirit that will enhance any meal or special event. There is a timeless quality to the high ceilings and tall window. Traditional maple hardwood floors are a little lighter, and baseboards are higher than the standard builder size. The colour palette and furniture design are decidedly modern, but the punchy wallpaper's peach tones and floral pattern have a hint of nostalgia about them. A sleek grey dining set does not overcrowd the small space. Imaginative lighting options such as a linear crystal chandelier are classic updates that will steal the show. You don't say whether you are keeping your furniture, but one or two colour changes will give new life to what you have.

DEAR Debbie -- I am trying to update my boyfriend's formal living room to be more inviting. (Our wedding is in two months.) Right now it's white walls, oatmeal carpet, couch and loveseat patterned navy blue, maroon wing chair, ornately trimmed wood coffee and end tables. I don't know whether to add plants, rearrange seating area or add some extras. Please help.

--Deb

DEAR Deb -- Merging styles is a hot topic. You have two challenges. The first is how to make changes that will suit both you and your fiancÈ, which calls for more than a dollop of diplomacy and compromise. The second is the decorating challenge of updating a traditional style - that's the easy bit!. The least expensive option is to apply a new paint colour to the walls. Even a subtle change will freshen the look. The traditional palette is filled with warm and inviting shades; try a sand beige base coat, and roll on a coat of pearlescent glaze over the top for a luster that shimmers beautifully in night lights. Check out your lighting store in person or on line for inspiration. Choose a new table or floor lamp together and you'll have a winning combination of timely and nostalgic. I do think you should have some natural splashes of green with plants. To keep this modern, add three or four similar sized plants in modern pots (steel or painted terra cotta) in a symmetrical pattern on a shelf, fireplace or even the floor.

DEAR Debbie -- We have a small 1-bedroom apartment. For the living dining area I have picked out a khaki green and one shade darker for a focal wall. I'm not sure what wall to make the focal wall, the back wall of the dining room or the wall behind the sofa in the living room. Thank you.

--Crystal

DEAR Crystal -- I suggest you paint the main living area the lighter shade, and add the more dramatic, darker green to your dining room wall. Dining rooms are more apt to be theatrical spaces, and this is a great way to build character, and to draw attention to the change in mood.

Debbie Travis' House to Home column is produced by Debbie Travis and Barbara Dingle. Please email your questions to house2home@debbietravis.com.

Debbie Travis House to Home
October 5

Renovation & Design

Treat scale with dormant oil in winter

ANSWER -- I know I have answered this question in the past, but I seem to be getting many questions about this problem again so I thought we should readdress the issue.

Scale is an insect that really does not look like an insect. In fact, most times it does not look like an animal but rather a fungus. The appearance is that of many whitish spots dotting a branch or trunk. If you pick off one of the white spots you will see a critter hiding inside the armoured shell. It is this shell that makes the insect almost impossible to control with conventional insecticides. The insecticides cannot penetrate the protective covering.

It is the adults that you find in the armour.

The young "crawlers" can be treated with insecticide, but you have to apply it at just the right time to get them. This is almost impossible. The only thing you can do is to apply a product called dormant oil in the winter, well before spring. The oil will suffocate the insects in their shells. You may need to reapply. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's directions carefully as this product can damage your shrubs if not used correctly.

QUESTION -- I was wondering if my Virginia creeper vine could be wintered in the garage in the original pot -- the garage is not heated, but is insulated. Or should I just plant it in the ground? If so, when?

ANSWER -- The answer with overwintering plants in containers in our area is the same as always. Perhaps.

Much depends on the type of winter we get and how well insulated the roots are. Wrapping the container in insulation (fibreglass) will help. Keeping it in the garage will help.

If the soil gets overly dry you may have to mist it as well. The best way of ensuring survival, by far, is to plant it in the ground. This eliminates the temperature variations that occur with a containerized plant in the winter.

QUESTION -- Could you give an opinion on the following gardening problems? Some of our tomatoes, when ripe, have rotten spots on the bottom. Also, the top leaves of our golden elder tree are turning brown.

ANSWER -- Some golden elders are prone to sunburn. If the plant is in full sun this might be one of many causes.

The tomato problem is likely blossom end rot. Blossom end rot is a physiological problem with tomatoes and zucchini. The first symptom is the appearance of what looks like a water-soaked area at the bottom of the fruit. This area continues to deteriorate turning black/brown and shrivelling, leaving a leathery sunken area. It is caused by a lack of calcium. This does not necessarily mean that the soil is deficient in calcium; it may simply mean that calcium has not been able to be taken up by the plant.

This lack of uptake could be caused by several factors:

Lack of steady moisture during periods of drought. It is critical to keep tomatoes moist at all times, and this is especially true when the fruits are setting and developing. Using a clay pot in a hot location could be a contributing factor. Clay pots are notorious for drying out more quickly than plastic pots because the clay is much more porous.

The plant needs calcium to develop fruit properly and that calcium is dissolved in soil water. If water is lacking then so is the calcium. Thus, you can have a calcium deficiency and yet have a good source of calcium in the soil.

Rapidly growing plants are more prone to the problem because fast growth requires an abundant supply of water and calcium. Also, excess nitrogen can contribute to the problem by excessively speeding up growth.

Transplanting tomatoes into cold soil may contribute to calcium deficiency because the organisms that convert calcium into a usable form are not as active in cold soils.

Cultivating deeply around tomatoes can damage roots and cause a lack of water and calcium uptake.

Tips to avoid blossom rot:

Keep soil moist but not sopping wet. Excess water is just as bad as not enough.

Mulching will help maintain even soil moisture.

Shallow, frequent cultivation is best.

Adequate but not excessive nitrogen.

--Canwest News Service

Gerald Filipski
October 5

Renovation & Design

All it's cracked up to be

"The vaulted ceiling is so large that in the winter the trusses move a bit because of the difference between the cold and the heat," Paul Beaudry says about the causes.

The Beaudrys considered having it repaired by a drywaller, who would bring in a scaffold, patch up the crack and make it look like new again, but they feared it could become a yearly ritual.

"I know that next winter it will happen again," Beaudry says. "To go through it every year is a little on the depressing side."

So he found an alternative.

While reading an article in the Free Press Homes section last spring, he saw a brief mention about polyester and polyurethane textile fabric ceiling that could be installed without having to repair or remove the existing ceiling.

After a bit of web research, he called the owner of the Winnipeg-based company, Dany Ensminger, a carpenter who recently emigrated from France and the only person in Western Canada trained to install the fabric ceilings, which have been in use in Europe for more than 12 years.

But Beaudry wasn't the only one intrigued by the innovative renovation technology. Since appearing in the Free Press and at an architectural showcase at the University of Manitoba, business has been brisk, says Ensminger, whose company is appropriately named European Ceiling Solutions.

A technique similar to an artist stretching a canvas over a frame, the PVC-free membrane is fastened to a frame lining the wall, a half-inch to an inch underneath the existing ceiling. The new ceiling can be installed often in less than a day if it's a small space. (It can be used for wall coverings too.)

For a larger area, like the 1,300-square-foot common space that encompassed the Beaudrys' living room, dining room and kitchen, Ensminger completed the project in three days -- without the usual mess that accompanies most renovation jobs.

"We came home on the last day, and they were packing up, and then it was like they had never been there," Beaudry says, adding the ceiling looks identical to a finished drywalled one.

Though more expensive than hiring a drywaller to patch the crack, Beaudry says the $5-per-square-foot price was worth it because the solution is permanent, and the fabric can be easily peeled back to provide access to wiring underneath.

The material is fire-, water- and mould-resistant and comes with a 10-year warranty, and while all of his clients so far have chosen white, Ensminger says the two product lines -- one from Belgium and the other from Switzerland -- come in several colours, textures and patterns.

"One of the interesting things is you can have it silkscreened with murals," said Winnipeg architect Lloyd W. Secter, who recently contracted Ensminger to install a ceiling in a client's home. "You can pretty much do anything to it."

The Belgian manufacturer, Luxplafond, even carries a translucent line of fabric, which Ensminger says is commonly used in commercial buildings in Europe as an innovative lighting system.

Lights installed underneath the membrane provide ambient lighting throughout a space -- be it ceiling or wall. In addition, he says he can frame the ceiling into almost any form -- arches, domes and convex formations that are difficult to create with drywall.

But beyond its uses for design and decor, the wall and ceiling system is incredibly convenient to install in situations where major renovations would be required.

Sector's client had a textured ceiling that would have been difficult to remove, and the job also called for the installation of more potted lights.

"There's cost savings and it went up in essentially one day," he says, adding drywalling would have taken about four days.

For Jim and Mary Tibbs, cost was an important consideration when looking into repairing their water-damaged kitchen ceiling in their Charleswood townhome. But convenience was an even bigger factor in their decision to choose the stretch fabric ceiling.

"I had a figure in my head of what I was prepared to spend," says Jim Tibbs, who had a price range of $1,500 to repair the 170-square-foot ceiling.

The Tibbs wanted new light fixtures, including new wiring, and were wary about having their ceiling ripped up and the job taking more than a couple of days.

Ensminger's solution took less than half a day, leaving the Tibbs with a perfectly smooth, white ceiling, complete new light fixtures, and a pleasant sense of disbelief to boot.

"The funny thing is at first I was thinking 'What on Earth is this guy going to be doing?'" Mary Tibbs says their initial uncertainty about their choice of contractor. That quickly subsided, however, once they saw the final result.

"It solved a big problem as far as we were concerned at a price that is acceptable," Jim says. "We are absolutely thrilled with it."

Joel Schlesinger
October 5

Renovation & Design

Can pesky basement teleposts be removed? Moving those supports tricky business

The beams are made up of four thicknesses of 2x10 lumber. The floor joists are professionally manufactured for a "squeak-proof" floor. The floor sheathing is glued and screwed to the floor joists.

I have received several suggestions as to how we could safely remove the teleposts. One suggestion was to have two metal plates put on each side of the wood beams, bolted tightly together. Another suggestion was to remove the wood beam completely and replace it with a steel I-beam.

My husband is very concerned about removing these beams, as they are cemented into the concrete foundation walls. In our previous home we had the beam that ran the full 40-foot length of the house removed and replaced with a steel I-beam. That was the only beam in the house. In the 25 years that we lived there, we had no problems.

I would appreciate any suggestions you can give me with this problem.

-- Rita Borthwick, Winnipeg

ANSWER -- Many homeowners have the same concerns as you, with troublesome posts preventing practical use or development of their basement's living space. Unfortunately, removal or relocation is not a simple matter, due to the specific design of the home's support structure. Care must be taken to reinforce or replace the beam properly, to prevent sagging in the floor system and damage to the structure of the home.

As you have discovered with your previous home, removal of the nuisance teleposts is not beyond the realm of possibility, but you may not recall the difficulty in replacement of the wood beam with a steel one. Your husband is correct that it may be tricky to remove the original wood beam from the pocket created in the original concrete foundation and replace it with one of a different size and material. Your idea of using larger steel I-beams to replace the wooden ones may be possible, but installation may be very tricky. Wood beams are typically constructed by laminating shorter pieces of dimensional lumber, to create the appropriate sized components. This is easily done during initial construction, and may not be difficult even after the home is partially finished, due to the shorter lengths of wood. Steel beams, on the other hand, are mostly installed as a single component that will span the entire distance between the foundation walls.

For the above reason, it may be fairly straightforward to install a steel I-beam in a new home under construction, due to easy access to the foundation. In a finished home, like yours, it may not be possible to transport a 21-foot-long beam into the basement. Also, the weight of such large steel members may require the use of a crane for lifting the beams into the location for installation. Because your home is a side-by-side condominium bungalow, access to one side of the foundation may not even be possible, without permission from your next-door neighbour. Getting access to the non-shared side of the foundation may be just as tough, due to the proximity of the adjacent unit in the condo complex.

For these reasons, reinforcing the existing beams is a better option for possible removal of the teleposts. Bolting steel angles to the existing wood beams may be one option, but the limitations of this may be similar to those for I-beam installation. Adding more wood or wood-composition beams to the existing ones may be the simpler and less costly alternative. Just like the floor joists in your home are manufactured from wood fibre components to span specific distances, manufactured beams are also available for use in house construction. Because of their design, these components may be able to span larger distances than dimensional lumber. Laminating these manufactured joists to the existing ones may allow removal of the teleposts, without costly and difficult removal of those already in place.

Since you have supplied me with a small version of the original foundation and beam plan for review, you will notice one critical item on this drawing. There is a small round stamp, signed by a registered structural engineer, in the bottom right corner. This verifies that the components of the floor structure have been reviewed by a professional engineer to ensure that these items can properly carry the loads needed to prevent structural damage to the home, under normal use. Any modifications to this plan must be further reviewed by an engineer to meet the same criteria. Especially with manufactured floor systems, scrutiny by an engineer familiar with the properties of these components is critical before any modifications are made.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P.O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz Ask the inspector
October 5