Renovation & Design

Renovation & Design

It's in your hands to prepare home for winter cold

Feel a chill? It's not just the falling temperature. It's the scary prospect of higher heating bills. Oil prices may have fallen, but the American Gas Association still is predicting that on average, bills for people who heat their homes with natural gas may be more than 18 per cent higher this year than last. Simple things can make a difference in how much you spend this winter. We talked with Angie Hicks, founder of Angie's List (angieslist.com), a website that helps consumers find contractors, for some tips.

1. Get the furnace checked.Pay to have a professional spot problems and fix them. It will be a lot cheaper than paying weekend rates for an emergency visit when the furnace cuts out on a cold Friday night. According to Hicks, 80 per cent of emergency calls could be prevented with routine maintenance.

2. Change the filter.Hicks suggests you let paying the monthly gas bill be your reminder to replace the furnace filter on a forced-air system. A clean filter makes the furnace run more efficiently, using less gas, saving money and reducing air pollution.

3. Lower the thermostat.It's an immediate way to burn less gas. If you don't have a programmable thermostat that can be set to automatically turn the heat way down while you're snuggled asleep or while you're off at work, get one. Depending on your skill level and the complexity of your heating system, you may be able to install one yourself.

4. Add insulation.Even if you have some insulation in your attic, you probably don't have enough. In Chicago, Hicks recommends attic insulation with an R-value of 49 -- which would require layers of standard fiberglass batting laid 19 inches deep. The batting is messy to handle, Hicks says, but easy enough for homeowners to install and inexpensive compared to the energy it saves. Other types of insulation may be more effective in tight spaces but require professional installation. Remember that many older brick houses, such as Chicago's 1920s bungalows, were built with no insulation in the walls. Be sure to caulk and weatherstrip around doors and windows to seal heat-sucking small gaps.

5. Consider a new furnace.It's an investment of several thousand dollars, but any furnace more than 10 years old is likely to burn far more gas than today's, Hicks says. Furnaces with the Energy Star label use gas at least 15 per cent more efficiently than other models (energystar.gov). It's crucial to size a furnace just right -- neither too small and unable to heat the home, nor too powerful and therefore wasteful. Prices will vary widely, depending on the size of the house and the complexity of the installation. Get bids from several contractors; question them closely about what they recommend and why; and check references, licenses and insurance before signing a contract.

-- Chicago Tribune

Beth Botts
November 23

Renovation & Design

Be sure to keep your sump pumps maintained Secondary, battery-powered pump is good safety measure

Q: I recently purchased a property, which is a side-by-side condo. The property is three years old. We have a sump pump that is automatic. A previous article of yours raises some questions for my pump.

Is there such a thing as a water tight sump pit?

Regarding pump failure: What is the proper method for installation of a second pump, powered by a 12-volt system? Where and what type of sump pump is available for this setup?

Thank you,

---- Art Mensch, Steinbach

Answer:You have raised a concern that is held by many homeowners with newer homes, particularly in rural or semi-rural areas. Sump pumps are an integral component in these homes for soil moisture management and can lead to significant problems if they fail or are not functioning properly. I will answer your question and add some extra information about these important mechanical devices in homes.

I am constantly surprised, when inspecting newer homes, about the lack of knowledge many homeowners have regarding their sump pits and pumps. I would guess that there is little thought given to these important systems until there is a failure or problem. As anyone who has experienced difficulty with this issue, once a problem is seen it is usually very, very noticeable. The biggest issue many homeowners have in this regard is where to divert the discharge hose to avoid saturating their lawns or driveways.

The function of a sump pit in a newer home is to create a reservoir underneath the basement floor slab to temporarily store excess groundwater collected by the weeping tile system. The perforated plastic drainage tile, which is laid outside the base of the foundation before backfilling, collects groundwater from rain and melting snow. These collector pipes connect to non-perforated ones installed underneath the basement floor slab. The excess groundwater is drained through these pipes, which terminate in the sump. The purpose of the sump pump is simply to redirect this water, through solid ABS plastic pipes, back to the exterior of the house, where it can be recycled back into the soil. The pump should engage when either an external float switch rises to the on position or a pressure switch inside the pump activates.

Where this system has a possible flaw is in the pump, itself. If the pump or float switch fail to activate when needed, the pit may fill to the top or overflow. This excess water can cause flooding in the basement, or heaving of the basement floor slab due to excess pressure from the weeping tiles under the slab. This may happen due to normal deterioration of the pump or float switch or due to a power failure.

Most sump pumps plug into a regular duplex receptacle on a normal 15-amp circuit. This circuit should be dedicated to the sump pump only, as large appliances connected to the same circuit may cause the breaker to trip if they are activated at the same time as the sump pump. Sometimes, homeowners unplug the pump for the winter or accidentally knock the plug out of the receptacle, which may lead to major problems. Also, many homes, particularly in rural areas, may be subject to power supply failures. This is often experienced during strong summer electrical storms, when the sump pump is most needed due to the heavy rainfall associated with these storms.

To solve this problem some creative homeowners or contractors install a secondary sump pump that is powered by a 12-volt battery. This smaller pump is typically installed with the float or activation switch near the top of the pit, rather than the bottom, so that it does not engage until the other pump fails. This pump should only engage when there is a problem with the electrical pump, likely due to power failure. This second pump can be connected to the same discharge piping with a second check valve to prevent backing up of water into the connection pipes. Often, these pumps are connected to a large marine grade 12-volt battery, sitting just outside the sump pit.

To answer both your direct questions, the smaller, battery powered sump pumps should be readily available through plumbing contractors or suppliers and may be installed with some modifications to the top plastic cover of the sump. Sump pit lids are now designed with gaskets and grommets to be fairly airtight, but this is not designed to stop water leakage under pressure. These components are to prevent soil gasses, like radon, from entering the living space from the soil underneath the basement floor slab. Care should be taken to re-seal this lid around the discharge pipe and wiring after modifications to install the second pump.

The final thing to address is the possible failure of the second pump. The worst-case scenario is the secondary pump not engaging when it is most needed. This may be due to a battery that is low on charge or other defect. It is critical to test the secondary pump on a regular basis by engaging the switch and allowing it to run for a short period of time. Also, a moisture sensor may be installed above the level of the secondary pump float switch, connected to a sump alarm or regular home alarm system. If the water level in the pit reaches this sensor, the alarm sounds which will let you know that both pumps are not operational & immediate service is needed.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz / Ask the Inspector
November 23

Renovation & Design

Keep in tune with indoor plants, keep them well

It is always a joy to see plants with fresh new leaves, and blossoms unfolding. All too often though, the little gems we find that look so healthy soon look tired and slowly (or quickly) go to their demise.

Indoor plants can perish for a number of reasons, but the key reasons are too much or too little light, too much or too little water. Lack of humidity, the wrong soil and food, and incorrect temperatures can all combine as well, to cause a plant to get weak enough to be attacked by bugs and diseases.

Light is a variable that is difficult to pinpoint. How much light a plant needs is often a guess unless information on the plant tag indicates.

Even then it is a matter of deciding where the plant will go. Bright light to one person might be low light to the trained eye.

Plants should always be located as near a light source as possible. It is always surprising to me when someone asks me for plants that can grow in the dark. Save for mushrooms and fungus, no plant can survive in the dark. Some last longer under these circumstances than others, but they all will have a short shelf life.

Leaf drop and yellowing leaves, and stretching or sprawling branches are all signs of low light. If the situation is not corrected, it will eventually kill the plant.

Just as unfortunate is the plant that is placed in full sun when it really requires shade. Leaf scorch and fading leaves occur in these conditions. The plants will turn crisp and dry up but can be revived if moved soon enough. Unfortunately, the dried leaves and branches are lost, and this ultimately changes the look of the plant, and sometimes so much so that the symmetry of the plant can be lost forever.

Watering is key to the health of a plant. Over-watering kills a plant faster than any disease, and it is difficult to downright impossible to bring an over-watered plant back to health.

Safer's Oxygen Plus is useful in reviving some plants that have deteriorated, but much of the time over-watered plants wilt and are soon dead. If you over-water your plants consistently, try planting them in clay pots. Clay is porous; it breathes throughout the pot, unlike plastic.

Under-watering can be just as hard on a plant. Keep plants watered regularly on a consistent basis. Depending on the light, you may have to check daily to see approximately when your plant is beginning to dry out.

If you are in tune with your plants, you will see the changes before the plant collapses. In the case of succulent plants, when they feel plump, they do not need water. Even if the soil is dry, refrain from watering them. When the plant feels soft or lacks turgor, it should be watered.

-- -- Canwest News Service

Mary Praznik
November 23

Renovation & Design

Patching linoleum won't take long, and it works

Q: We have a cigarette burn on our almond coloured sheet linoleum. It is rather deep. I have tried to "shave" it clean and I have also tried bleaching, with the area with toothpaste. Any ideas?

-- Celine, Lorette

If you have already tried to insert shavings of linoleum into the space and cover the area with clear nail polish, yet have not been successful, then you need to find another piece of linoleum from the same dye lot. If you do not have a spare piece, cut a little piece from behind the fridge or from the closet. To remove a little piece from another area, hold a putty knife blade perfectly perpendicular to the floor. Score the area and then heat it with a hairdryer and lift it up carefully using the putty knife.

Lay the patch over the area to be repaired making sure that the pattern lines up. Place masking tape across to make sure the scrap piece does not move. Use a sharp razor blade knife and cut along the pattern on the patch through the damaged piece right through to the sub.

Remove the masking tape, the patch piece and the burnt area using a hairdryer and putty knife. Scrape the sub floor underlay clean and apply a thin coat of adhesive allow that to dry for 30 minutes. Next apply the adhesive to the back of the patch and the sub floor. Position the patch into place and push it down firmly. Lay a piece of parchment or wax paper on the patch and pile it with books, leave overnight. In the morning apply a seam weld (from a hardware store) along the pattern joint to hide the repair.

I know that this sounds like a lot of work but if you buy really good adhesive glue and seam weld, the project won't take long and you will be happy with the results.

Q: My son had an old car that left grease stains on our cement car port and I have tried everything to clean it, do you have any suggestions?

-- Susan, Brandon

You can purchase products formulated for cleaning concrete. The following are other options, always wear eye and skin protection when using chemicals. Bleach, dilute as the directions indicate for cleaning. Let the solution sit on the stained area for several minutes, then scrub and rinse. Or TSP, dilute one cup in one gallon of hot water. Pour it on the area and let it sit for 15 minutes. Scrub with a stiff brush. Rinse off with hose and repeat if needed. Or muriatic acid although this is not a stain remover or cleaner. The acid actually etches away the concrete itself, and sometimes the stain as well. You will need to scrub and rinse this chemical also. Follow the directions carefully! Use muriatic acid only if you seal the driveway with masonry sealer afterwards. Remember that you will be altering the level of the surface if you remove a lot of material. If you use a pressure washer, make sure you have the right nozzle. A jet that is too concentrated can damage concrete. Use a nylon scrub brush.

Q: My friend heard you on the radio giving a window cleaner recipe; she tried it and loved it but can't find the recipe. Could you give me the correct measurements for the ingredients? I would appreciate this as I clean windows in a church building and I dread the streaks! Thank you.

-- Marlis, Winnipeg

The window cleaning recipe is a cinch to make. In a spray bottle combine 1 tsp. cheap shampoo or dish soap, one-quarter cup rubbing alcohol. Fill the remainder of the bottle with white vinegar. Spray onto windows and wipe with three-day old or older newspaper. Super cleaner!

Q: I am getting ready to store my tools for the winter. Any suggestions on how to keep rust from forming on the blades?

-- Darren, Selkirk

Begin by cleaning the tools and any already rusted areas with fine steel wool and light oil such as WD-40. If you do not have WD-40 on hand you can opt for cooking, mineral or baby oil. You can also sharpen your tools now, which means they will be ready when spring comes a-calling.

Q: I burnt popcorn in the microwave and the entire house smells (especially the kitchen). What can I do to combat the smell?

-- Larry, Winnipeg

Here are a few tricks to tackle this quandary: You can either heat lemon juice or vinegar in the microwave until it boils over and then wipe out the interior. Or combine into a bowl; vanilla and water and heat until it boils over or another option is to combine lemon slices, vinegar, vanilla, dish soap and water in a bowl and heat. Alternatively combine and heat baking soda and water. If the odour persists, store coffee grounds in a bowl in the microwave to absorb excess odours. All the best!

Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestsellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions, Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets and the soon to be released book Household Solutions 3 the Green Edition available on-line and in stores across Canada.

I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming!

www.householdsolutions.org

Reena Nerbas
November 23

Renovation & Design

Going modern doesn't have to break bank

AVONDALE ESTATES, Ga. -- Keith Brown and Karen Hennessey wanted to give their ranch house the sleek, modern style they had come to appreciate from stays in boutique hotels in cities such as Paris, Cairo and Johannesburg.

To keep the budget as minimalist as the design, however, they had to plan carefully. The keys, says Brown, have been patience, persistence and discipline.

"You get caught up in the trappings of looking at these (home decor) magazines," says Brown, a designer himself. "Most people try to figure out, 'How can I get that look?' and that's when you have to get really creative."

Not that Brown wasn't seduced by the glossy pages of modern mag staples such as "Dwell" and "Wallpaper," which are piled up in stacks around the house. That high-end influence is evident throughout the home, in touches like faucets, bathroom vanities and marble floors.

But look again. The vanities in the master and guest bedrooms? A repurposed television stand and bookcase from Ikea. The kitchen sink faucet? Home Depot.

Brown admits that as a designer, he has an advantage over the average do-it-yourselfer. But he insists the deals are there for those willing to look.

"You have to simply figure out how to use the Internet to your advantage, and shop wisely and get good deals and take the risks that are associated with not being able to go into a showroom and see something," he said.

Not that he wasn't willing to get out and shop for a deal.

"Two or three times a week, I would get in my car and go to these places," he said, rattling off bargain electronic stores and discount appliance retailers. "We hunted. And there's nothing defective about any of the products we bought. It was almost just like going on a scavenger hunt."

Brown seems to relish the process nearly as much as the finished product. He is especially proud of the kitchen, a study in high-gloss white minimalism. He estimates the high-end version of the space could have cost $150,000 or more, not including the appliances, but offers a glimpse into what he was able to save by shopping around:

A $7,800 refrigerator for $2,500.

A $1,600 convection oven for $300.

Dishwasher drawers, normally $1,200 to $2,000, for $700.

"Overall, we've been able to do what we did with modern because we've been smart," Brown said. "There are days when I look at this house and say, 'I know I can do this, and I wasn't dealing with half of the money some of these other people are dealing with."'

Patrick Johnson, an architect with the Atlanta-based design firm AI3, worked with Brown on the project. He said the Internet, Ikea and magazines like "Dwell" have done a lot to further the resurgence of modern design.

"I don't like the word 'elite,' but there was a symbolic quality that modern design had, probably until the last five years," Johnson said. "There's an acceptance because it's more accessible now."

The key to keeping costs down, Johnson said, is being hands-on. "There are ways of getting a look with standard, off-the-shelf building materials. But you've gotta be willing to hunt."

--The Associated Press

Errin Haynes
November 16