Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
How to make hanging pictures a work of art
How many times have you bought an amazing piece of art and hung it on the wall, only to realize it's too high? How many nail-scars are covered up by that perfectly hung print? Hanging artwork can be frustrating, but by using these pointers, you can avoid getting hung up on the task.
As a general rule, artwork should be placed so that the centre of the picture or grouping is at eye level for the average person. Art is there to be appreciated, and a picture hung too high or too low runs the risk of being missed.
When hanging art above furniture, try to leave twice as much space above the art than below it. A good rule of thumb is to leave four to eight inches between the surface of the furniture and the bottom of the frame.
A blank wall is the perfect canvas for your art. A large piece displayed on its own creates an instant focal point in a room; it demands attention, fills the space and can sometimes make up for a lack of architectural detail. In this case, lighting is important. A properly lit picture will attract immediate notice and will make the details of the piece more easily visible.
Groupings can also fill space as well as any one picture. A grouping can be a collection of any type of artwork -- it doesn't have to be a matching set. It can be hung according to common colours or subject matter. For emphasis and visual impact, group similar artwork together or use the same style of mat and frame. Pictures hung in a row horizontally will help to visually widen a space, while art hung in a row vertically will add height and draw the eye upward.
However you choose to hang your artwork, make sure to take your time, plan and measure, much as you would with any other decorating project. Do it right the first time and your perfect picture can be picture perfect.
-- Canwest News Service
Renovation & Design
Skylights: leaks are a matter of when, not if
Question -- I have a question about skylights. I just moved into a house which does not have a window in the kitchen. I was going to have a window added on the south-facing wall, even though it faces another house, but I was told I couldn't because there is less than four feet between my wall and the property line.
I then thought of putting a skylight in the kitchen instead, since I really would like to have more light in the room. I know skylights have evolved a lot in the past few years and are much more efficient than before, but I'd like to know your opinion on the performance of skylights in Winnipeg, especially in the winter. Also, is there any way to make sure the snow doesn't stay on the skylight all winter long and block the light, other than climbing on the roof every second day?
----Anne Gilmer, e-mail
QUESTION -- I was considering installing a different type of skylight. I had seen it in trade magazines a couple of years ago, and wanted the technology to be confirmed before buying one. It is an insulated flexible tube with a round dome for the roof, and a similar cover for the inner ceiling. The flex hose is reflective inside, and while there is not a direct view, there is supposed to be plenty of light. Have you seen any of these, or heard of any major problems? The magazine article said it was based for Canadian winters.
--Albert Sutyla, e-mail
ANSWER -- Installation of skylights in a climate with the potential for over half of each year with snow and below freezing temperatures has always been a bit contentious. While there are numerous of these roof-mounted windows installed each year, the controversy and the basic technology has not changed much over the years.
My own view of skylights is that it is not a matter of if they will leak, but when they will leak. While this may seem overly pessimistic, it is the reality that most skylights have moisture related issues over the term of their normal operating lifetime. Much of this moisture may be misconstrued as leakage from the exterior, when it is quite the opposite. Much of the moisture issues with skylights are due to condensation from warm house air on the underside of the cool surface of the skylight. This is often worse in skylights installed in high vaulted ceilings, foyers or other roofs above open areas that bridge more than one floor of the home. Many manufacturers have solved minor condensation issues by designing small integral drainage troughs in the interior portion of the skylight frame. While some moisture issues can be anticipated with most skylights, the severity is often a function of design and installation.
Your first assertion that skylights have "evolved a lot" in recent years is unfortunately not true, with the exception of some of the innovative models like that mentioned in the following question. Many skylight manufactures have adapted models not well designed for our frigid climate by adding triple glazing and reflective or low emissive coatings. These improvements have helped prevent condensation related issues, but little has changed in the installation methods or basic composition. The difficulty with most skylights arises from installation of essentially a rectangular window on a sloped roof. This poses the difficult situation of how to divert water around this obstruction, which becomes increasingly difficult when you factor in ice and snow build-up. Without proper design and installation procedures, this is a recipe for leakage.
Many skylight installation kits come with good quality flashing materials to ensure that the curb that the skylight is mounted on does not leak. If these are not provided with the skylights, an experienced roofer will be required to ensure proper step flashing is installed that prevents melted snow, ice and wind-driven rain from backing up under the shingles and entering the roof system. If this is done well, there should be little chance of leakage from the exterior, as long as one other variable is taken into consideration.
Many skylights are designed to be installed only on roofs with sufficient slope to provide adequate drainage. Too often skylights are mounted on low slope or flat roof systems without proper membranes or curb flashings designed for this style of roof. Installation on homes with minimal pitch is much more difficult due to the possibility of standing water backing up and entering the area around the skylights or under the curb.
To answer the second question about tube skylights, I have only seen a few of these installed over the years, but I like the concept for a couple of reasons. Because the bottom of the tube is sealed, along with the domed top, there is much less chance of condensation inside the skylight box from warm air convection. Also, the round shape of the dome top should be much less susceptible to trapping snow and ice above the unit. The difficulty may be in installation of flashing for these units and properly sealing roofing around a round structure. As for keeping the top of the skylight free of snow, the only advice I can offer is to install the unit as close to the peak of the roof as possible and avoid valleys and other areas prone to high snow accumulation.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P.O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
Renovation & Design
Check a sofa carefully before deciding to buy
Are you in the market for a new sofa? This is one of the most important and expensive purchases you will make, as it should last at least 10 years.
So as much as you love that cherry-red loveseat or the recliner with all the bells and whistles, it's time to let level heads prevail. This should be more than an impulse buy.
Before you start your search, get out the measuring tape. There are two important reasons to measure. One, you need to know the width and height of doorways and stairwells so you know what size will fit through the door, up or down the stairs. Believe me, I have seen walls taken out or sofas returned because they cannot be moved into the house. Two, and just as important, is scale. The sofa should not overpower the room or get lost in the space. Measure and tape off where the sofa will sit. This is a good time to rearrange furniture.
With the correct size in hand, ask yourself what exactly you want the sofa for. Is it a family affair or a formal living room addition, where guests should look elegant? (We have all sat in those seats that are awkward to get out of.) Will the dog be curling up with young children, or are you looking for an extra place to sleep? With size and purpose firmly entrenched (this will help with the impulse buy), you are ready to go shopping.
Here are some good buying tips. First impressions count, so do you like the way the sofa looks? Sofas come in so many different styles, shapes and sizes. Cushions can be attached or loose, arms rolled or straight, bare or padded, legs carved, curved or straight. Traditional styles have two or three loose seat cushions and padded arms, which are comfy to read against. Legs are carved or tapered if bare, but may be hidden by an upholstered skirt. The more modern version will show clean lines, perhaps a single, long cushion seat, straight, uncovered arms or armless. These contemporary lines fit well in small spaces, as light can flow under and around the piece.
The fabric covering is a major consideration. Leather is smooth, long-lasting and classically handsome. Velvets and silk are gorgeous, but do not wear well, which is fine in a formal setting with limited use. Cottons and tweeds make a good choice for durability and long wear, but read the fabric content. Tight weaves promise longer wear. Dark colours, and especially patterns, are good at hiding soil and stains in a high-traffic area such as the family room. If you would like to be able to change the look seasonally, or want to be able to update the sofa without buying new, then look for a style that can be slipcovered.
The comfort factor comes next. Sit or lie down on the sofa. Do whatever it is that you will be doing at home -- recline, take a buddy and sit down together. You'll discover quickly whether it feels good. And it should feel great. Down-filled cushions are the best, but need to be fluffed. A good and less expensive alternative is to go with a down pad wrapped over the top of upholstery foam.
Finally, check out the quality of the sofa, inside and out. This is a big purchase and you want it to last longer than a year. The best sofas will have solid hardwood frames, screwed together. Arms and legs will also be solid -- no wiggling or shifting. Cushions will have good-quality spring coils that are tied together. The sofa frame and corners should be well-padded, with no hollow spaces along the back, seat or arms. Good workmanship is essential. Examine the upholstery and be sure the patterns or stripes match up and the trim is neat and secure.
After all is said and done, maybe that red loveseat does fit all your criteria. You can go for it, guilt free!
Note: Regarding our recent column on creating a better home office, thank you to reader Lawrence, who pointed out that it is important to check your bylaws regarding running a business from home.
Debbie Travis' House to Home column is produced by Debbie Travis and Barbara Dingle. Please email your questions to house2home@debbietravis.com.
Renovation & Design
Fishing for a cure for night crawlers?
QUESTION -- With spring just ahead I would like a solution for how to control night crawlers? They are ruining my lawn and I want to get rid of them. Garry, Holland, Man.
ANSWER -- At this point there is no registered chemical available to zap away night crawlers. Your best bet (when spring arrives) is to use Sevin at the label rate for grub control. Be sure to water well, with about one-third inch to one-half inch irrigation. Repeat again in the fall. These two treatments should give about 70 per cent control.
QUESTION -- After using rubber backed floor mats on my bathroom floor, a yellowish stain seems to be appearing. Why is this happening and is there a solution for restoring the floor? Thanks. SJS, Winnipeg
ANSWER -- The sulphur in your mat has left you with a yellow stain which is very often permanent. Many people have found 3 per cent hydrogen peroxide to be helpful: pour it onto the area everyday for three days and observe whether or not the stain is lightening. Other options are to combine one quarter cup OxyClean with 1 gallon boiling water and pour the solution onto the area. If the yellow does not budge, you may end up having to leave the stained area and cover it with a new mat, cotton mats are a wise choice.
It is too bad that so many floors have a tendency to yellow and discolour, most often from a rubberback rug or some other weight being left on one specific area.
QUESTION -- I enjoy reading your column every week and I immediately thought of you for advice with my problem. My father passed his old Crokinole board onto me recently. It was shipped about 20 years ago from the Caribbean to Winnipeg. Unfortunately the movers placed a 'fragile' sticker right on the playing surface and despite the efforts of my family at that time only a small portion was able to be removed. I would love to remove the rest and use the board but I have been unsuccessful with goo removers and water. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated? Cheers, Matthew, Winnipeg
ANSWER -- Begin by holding a hot hair dryer under one corner of the sticker. Blow hot air onto the board and peel the sticker as you hold the hair dryer in place. You will be amazed at how well this works. Use a plastic putty knife to scrape away gummy residue. Next apply Murphy's Oil Soap or olive oil onto the surface to give the board a good cleaning. If the sticker remains, in a ventilated area spray the area with WD-40. Leave for 15 minutes and peel. Test WD-40 on an inconspicuous area before using it on the Crokinole Board.
FABULOUS TIP OF THE WEEK: Next time company comes, think cloth napkins. Cloth napkins, contrary to popular belief are still better for the environment than paper, even though it takes water and energy to wash them. Cloth napkins are so small -- even if you have a big family, cloth napkins will only run you about one load of wash per week. If you wash on cold, hang dry, and use eco-friendly laundry soap, they just don't add up to the same eco-badness as paper napkins.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national best sellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions, Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets and the soon to be released book Household Solutions 3 the Green Edition available on-line and in stores across Canada.
Renovation & Design
Fixing an icy, leaking roof certainly not a snow job
IT'S -10 outside, your floor's covered in water but you didn't let the bathtub overflow, and there's a new stain on the ceiling. Yup, you really should have done something about that ice on the roof a little sooner.
Ice occurs when either the sun or heat escaping from your house melts snow on the roof. When the water hits the cooler edge of the roof, it refreezes, causing a dam.
More ice backs up behind the dams, working under shingles and eventually melting -- often right into your home -- when it meets warmer attic air.
What to do: Take action if you notice big icicles and heavy ice and snow extending four or five feet up your roof. Removing snow and ice from the roof is not a DIY project: It's dangerous to both you and your roof. And beware of amateurs knocking on doors. Instead, call a professional.
Service: The pros know how to use shovels, axes and hammers to remove snow and ice without cracking shingles, shearing off vents or adding an unwanted skylight to your home. Once the worst is gone, the sun will melt the rest.
Costs: Vary depending on the size of the home and amount of buildup. Expect to pay $300 to $600-plus for an average home (a bargain compared to the cost of a major roof repair). Bungalows are usually the most expensive because of long roof edges and low-profile roofs that don't shed snow. In February, one removal should last the rest of the winter.
Cleanup: Ask the contractor if cost includes removal of snow and ice that's gone from your roof to the ground.
Advice: Next time you have your home re-roofed, inquire about adding a rubberized ice and water shield beneath the shingles. Proper attic insulation and ventilation also reduce problems. In the meantime, when those guys show up to remove the ice and snow, "ask for proof of insurance and Workers' Compensation coverage," says Jim Potvin, general manager of Sanderson Roofing in Ottawa. "Otherwise, if there's an accident, you could be open to a lawsuit."
-- Canwest News Service