Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
Chimney removal a basement-to-roof task
Question: We recently had a high-efficiency furnace installed. As the furnace is vented through the side wall, we would like to know how to go about removing the chimney on the roof and the flue lining which goes down to the basement. I would like to utilize the space in the house currently occupied by the chimney. The chimney appears to be aluminum, rather than brick.
Linda Ballantyne, Winnipeg
Answer: There are a couple of considerations to be aware of in relation to removal of the old furnace chimney and vent from your home. Although actual removal may be quite straightforward, repairs to a few areas in the home afterward can be tricky.
Although you have not given information on the exact location of your chimney, I will make the assumption that it is located somewhat near the centre of the home. I base this conclusion on the fact that you want the additional space, which would be limited if you had a chimney located on an exterior wall. If you do have an exterior chimney chase location, the exterior repairs will be more complex due to the need to rebuild part of the eaves after chimney removal.
Unlike an older brick or masonry chimney, metal chimneys can be relatively easy to remove from your home. Yours is likely a double-walled metal B-vent covered with a thin, galvanized metal chimney chase above the roof. The B-vent is the actual flue for the older furnace and is normally secured only at the basement floor and the ceiling where it enters the attic. The top may be partially secured to the metal chimney chase above the roof, but all these areas should allow for easy dismantling of the sections of B-vent.
The vent can often be partially removed by accessing the roof and attic at the same time. This will require at least one person to physically manoeuvre the metal pipe above the roof while another helps disconnect it inside the attic. If you have a roof with a typical pitch and an easily accessible attic hatch, this may be quite easy to do. Alternatively, if you have a low-slope roof or a steeply pitched roof where the chimney is located, removal may require installation of temporary platforms or opening larger sections of the roof, which will increase the complexity of the job.
Once the B-vent is removed above the attic floor, the remainder can be dismantled and removed from the basement or main floors of the home. This may require removal of wall coverings around the vent, often in a closet or other area attached to a partition wall. If the vent is not covered and can be seen inside a closet or other cavity, removal should be quite simple. Either way, the cavity occupied by the vent inside the home may yield even more usable space than the basement section after it is vacated.
The next steps will likely require the aid or one or more contractors. Once the vent is removed at the exterior, the metal chimney chase above the roof can be taken down. This will require the removal of several shingles and flashing around the base of this metal box to allow disconnection from the roof sheathing.
After this area is open, the roof sheathing will have to be patched and the entire exposed area covered with new shingles. If your roofing is older than a couple of years, repairs will require an experienced roofer to ensure a waterproof seal and proper match to the existing roofing. Once the roofing is patched, the internal repairs can be safely completed.
The final critical area to repair is the floor of the attic and the ceiling below, where the old chimney exited the living space. The underside will have to be patched with drywall.
If you currently have a polyethylene air/vapour barrier in the attic, this will have to be extended and properly caulked or sealed to a new section of poly placed over the old opening. Alternatively, a piece of rigid extruded polystyrene insulation may be cut to fit and sealed in place to provide a good air/vapour barrier.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P.O. Box 69021, 110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB, R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Pop that pop stain from your carpet
QUESTION: Have you found a way to remove orange pop stains on carpet? Whenever people visit they ask me where the orange stain came from, it is very visible and I would like to get rid of it. I have had no success with commercial carpet cleaners as of yet. Any ideas will be very much appreciated.
George, Winnipeg
ANSWER: What you will need to do is make a recipe that requires products from around the home. Into a two-cup measure drop one teaspoon Dawn dish soap and two cups of water. Stir. Next, pour the solution onto the stain. Lay a white cloth onto the area and press with an iron on medium setting. Make sure that you do not scorch the carpet by leaving the iron in one place for too long. Replace the white cloth with a new white cloth and press. Repeat until the stain is gone.
QUESTION: On Canada AM this week you gave a solution for burnt pot bottoms. Can you repeat the process?
Sandy, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Sprinkle the bottom of the burnt pot with a layer of powdered dishwasher detergent. Fill the pot one-quarter full with water. Boil for five minutes and remove from the element. Leave for an hour and wash as normal.
QUESTION: Is there any way to remove a ring made by a hot cup on a stained and lacquered oak desk top?
Jackie, Brandon, MB.
ANSWER: I always thought that watermarks on furniture were tricky to remove. Now I realize that they can be zapped by applying a combination of mayonnaise and some ashes from a wood stove or fireplace. Leave for about 10 minutes and wipe. Non-gel, non-bleach toothpaste also works well. If neither solution does the trick this means that the finish of the wood has been stripped and your best option is to refinish the area.
QUESTION: I like to use vinegar, dish soap and water to wash my hardwood floors. However, I am noticing that although it cleans the floors I am seeing marks on the floors. Every time I walk on them with bare feet, I can see footprints (also most slippers leave an imprint). Is there a solution? Much appreciated.
Donna, Arborg, MB.
ANSWER: With such a wide variety of hardwoods available, what works for one floor will not necessarily work for another. Here are a few effective options to try: into a bucket combine one gallon warm water and two tea bags. Wipe the floor (the tannins in the tea will leave the floor looking clean). Option two: into two gallons warm water drop three tbsp. household ammonia, and one-quarter teaspoon dish soap. Mop the floor to dampen (no need to rinse). Option three: purchase hardwood floor cleaner by Bona. Clean with a good quality microfibre mop (test all applications on a small, inconspicuous area first).
QUESTION: Here is a challenge that the carpet cleaners couldn't help me with. My 75-pound dog stepped on a glue trap (for mice). In an attempt to get the trap off, he stomped it into my off-white acrylic berber carpet. The trap pulled away but not without leaving some residue behind. The hot steam has left the surface loops stiff and discoloured. Any ideas before I have it cut out?
Diane, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Before you run for the scissors try the following solution. If I were you, I would pour boiling water onto the area and blot, blot and blot until every tiny little bit of glue is gone. Worst-case scenario: spray the area with WD-40, leave for 10 minutes, then blot with dish soap and water.
QUESTION: I need a solution for removing mould on painted surfaces. I've used bleach on a spot in my bedroom lower corner and the mould keeps reappearing so I'm most interested in what you have to suggest. Thank you so much and hope you keep the information coming.
Carol, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The problem sounds more like a structural problem, which you may want to look into so that the problem will be permanently rectified. In terms of cleaning the area, why not try something less toxic than bleach? Instead, switch to two cups of wonderful white vinegar and add 10 drops of tea tree oil, which is an anti-fungal and will tackle the mould problem. Add to that vinegar and you've got a powerful combination.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestsellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions, Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets, and the soon to be released Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives, available online and in stores across Canada.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming! Check out my website: www.householdsolutions.org
Fabulous tips of the week
To get something out of a heat register or from under the fridge, add an empty paper towel roll or gift wrap roll to your vacuum. It can be bent or flattened to get in narrow openings.
Peel a banana from the bottom and you won't have to pick the little 'stringy things' off.
Glenda, Winnipeg
To give your microwave a great cleaning, combine four tablespoons of lemon juice with one cup of water in a microwave-safe, four-cup bowl. Boil for five minutes in the microwave, allowing the steam to condense on the inside walls of the oven. Wipe clean.
Lawrence, Russell
Renovation & Design
May be simple solution to mould problem
Question: I have a question about the water in my home. Anywhere there is standing water, whether it is hot or cold, mould grows. For example, the rim around the washing machine is growing black- and pinkish-coloured mould. In addition, we recently purchased a humidifier for our son's bedroom and within a few days the entire canister had grown thick, black mould. I filled it with cold tap water as per directions. Two years ago we had a new hot water tank installed, but the problem persists. We live in Transcona, in a house that was built in the 1970s. We have copper pipes, from what I can tell. Can you help us determine what the problem is, and what we can do to fix it? Do we need some type of water filter?
-- Audrey Pinette & family
Answer: Your question is a good example of something that appears to be a moderate to major concern in your home that may not be anything out of the ordinary. I will offer some advice for minimizing the mould growth, while attempting to explain the reason for its appearance.
The first thing to address is the water quality in your home, in relation to mould growth. I can say, with much certainty, that the growth of mould in your home has little to do with the water quality. Our municipal water is treated with chlorine, as well as fluoride and other processes, to prevent the growth of bacteria and other micro-organisms that can be harmful to the end users.
Moulds are present in varying quantities in most of our exterior and interior habitats and the majority are harmless or even beneficial to our health. Regardless, some types have been identified that may be potentially toxic in an indoor environment and their spores can be easily transported by indoor forced-air heating systems.
These spores may remain dormant for long periods of time, until the right environmental conditions occur that enable them to grow. For this to happen, mould needs three main things to thrive. The first and foremost requirement is moisture. The second requirement is a cellulose-based food source, and the final variable is heat.
Your perceived link between the water source and the mould growth is natural, as this component is critical for the fungus to grow. As you have stated, this can be anywhere water is allowed to remain stagnant, due to the other two requirements. If water is kept cool and moving, such as in your pressurized water pipes, there will not be sufficient introduction of heat or food for the mould to grow.
Also, airborne spores will not be able to enter the water, eliminating the possibility of growth. Once the water leaves the cool, copper water supply pipes, it will instantly begin to warm due to the ambient temperature of your home. Not only will mould spores be able to enter the water from passing air, so will other food sources. As previously stated, any cellulose-based material can be fuel for mould growth.
Most of the building materials in your home, as well as organic items, fall into this category. This may include drywall dust, pet hair, skin flakes and other small materials that regularly circulate in our homes through the forced-air heating systems. Normal household dust can contain all the food required for easy mould growth, but this will only occur if enough moisture is introduced to dormant mould spores.
The solution to your problem is not to worry about contaminants in the water, but to strive to eliminate two of the three above requirements for mould proliferation. While you don't want to remove heat from the equation, you may be able to minimize both the sources of moisture and food. It is quite common to see small amounts of mould and mildew form in washing machines and bathrooms, as they may have consistent, small quantities of standing water as well as residual soap from washing, which provides an ideal growth medium.
The first thing to do is to eliminate both the water and the soap residue. Wiping down these areas after use with a towel or rag may remove enough of these two components to minimize the problem. Allowing sufficient ventilation by opening shower doors or curtains, or the washer door, will also promote evaporation of the standing water by improved air circulation.
As for other areas in your home, avoiding excessive dust and dirt build-up will help prevent small amounts of mould from growing in areas like humidifiers and water-filled flower vases.
Additionally, the furnace filter should be changed every one to two months, especially if you have pets. Purchasing higher-quality, pleated air filters may also help reduce dust and can help trap airborne mould spores, preventing easy circulation throughout your home.
Unlike some health and safety concerns in our homes, prevention of excess mould growth may be as simple as maintaining a two-stage prevention strategy. Avoid allowing damp, poorly ventilated areas or stagnant water to develop while removing excess dust, dirt and soap scum accumulations with regular cleaning. Simply put; no water, no food, no mould.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9.
Renovation & Design
Time to clear up some doubt about grout
QUESTION - I attempted to install ceramic tile inside the entrance of my home. It has been six months and the grout between some of the tiles is beginning to crack and crumble. Any idea why this is happening? Tanis, The Pas.
ANSWER - The first question to ask yourself is whether the grout was mixed properly. When mixing grout, a proper consistency must be achieved. Improperly mixed grout can lead to weak grout lines that crumble and crack. Grout can also crack along seams of walls where expansion and contraction occurs. However, the most likely reason for any grout line to crack is because the tile is loose. It sounds like more cement was needed under some (or all) of the tiles to hold them in place. You can determine if a tile is loose by tapping it with your knuckle and if it sounds hollow it is loose. You might even be able to lift the tiles up with little effort if they are really loose. In this is the case, you will want to re-do those tiles. Two days following installation remember to seal the grout.
QUESTION - What is grout sealer and should I seal my bathroom tile? Dorin, Winnipeg
ANSWER - Grout sealer is a liquid that is applied about two days after grout work is done. Once it is applied it soaks into the grout and dries creating a protective barrier against water and dirt. Sealing tile is strongly recommended after it has been newly re-grouted or following new tile installation. It can greatly extend the life of your grout and even make it easier to clean as the dirt will tend to float on the surface rather then penetrate deep into the grout. If grout is very stained it can be professionally steam cleaned.
QUESTION - My mom has a huge scratch in her glass coffee table and I was wondering if you have any solutions as to how to get it out. Any input you have would be great. Thanks. Danielle, Winnipeg
ANSWER - Some people report that inexpensive whitening toothpaste is effective at hiding small scratches. Add baking soda to the toothpaste and apply it into scratches with a toothpick, leave it for 30 minutes and buff with a soft cloth. Two other homemade solutions for hiding small scratches on glass are Brasso metal polish or the following homemade remedy: Combine 50/50 dry mustard and white vinegar. Buff scratches and polish the surface with a soft cloth.
To hide large scratches such as what you are describing, your best bet is to purchase a glass scratch fixit kit. Check out your local hardware store or websites for repair kits such as i.e. www.glassscratchrepair.co.uk.
QUESTION - I read your article in the Winnipeg Free Press last week and wanted to try your window/glass cleaner recipe but you didn't indicate the sprayer bottle size. Therefore, I don't know how much vinegar to mix in with the 1 tsp. dish soap and one quarter cup rubbing alcohol. Please let me know. Thank you, Wendy, Winnipeg
ANSWER - Use an 18 oz spray bottle and the recipe will work well!
QUESTION - I'm a bachelor and need your help. Can you recommend a cleaner and sealer/polish for a Bath Fitter bathtub liner? Many thanks. Kale, Bisset.
ANSWER - You can use Gel Gloss as a sealer/polish or Turtle Wax. If you use Turtle Wax, you need to completely clean the unit before applying the wax. For everyday cleaning, use any non-abrasive product i.e. dishwashing soap, baking soda and water etc. Borax and Ajax are too abrasive unless you dissolve them in water first.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national best sellers Household Solutions 1 and 2
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming!
Check out my website! www.householdsolutions.org
Fabulous Tip of the Week
Store chips, crackers and cereal in the freezer, they will never go stale!
