Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: WD-40 puts the ZIP back in zippers
QUESTION: The zippers on my convertible boat top are very hard to zip. Is there something to put on them to make them easier to close? I have used soap but it just washes off. Thanks, Merv, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Let me give you a few options to loosen the zipper: Use a solid, waxy substance such as candle wax made for snow skis, or a crayon. Using a toothpick, work the lubricant into the teeth of the zipper, and then slide the zipper up and down. In my opinion the most effective option is to spray the zipper with WD-40, wipe off excess and ZIP!
ZIPPER TRIVIA: Whitcomb L. Judson, a Chicago mechanical engineer, invented the zipper. It came about because a friend with a stiff back could not do up his shoes. Judson designed a slide fastener that could be opened or closed with one hand. In 1893 he patented a device called the "clasp locker," which was the forerunner of the modern zipper. It had only two problems: it didn't work and no one wanted to buy it. Judson displayed it at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair. Although around 20 million people went to the fair, he sold only 20 of the hook less fasteners. The U.S. Postal Service bought them to put on their mailbags. Instead of giving up, Judson founded the Universal Fastener Company to manufacture his new device. When a customer ordered a huge quantity of them for the rubber galoshes he was manufacturing, he liked the "z-z-zip" sound they made and coined the name zipper.
QUESTION: We are in desperate need of your help. Last week I fried cod fillets on the stove. Since then the odour of fish seems to permeate our house especially when you enter the house from outside. I have tried washing the floors and counters with vinegar and water. As well as leaving the doors and windows open for long periods of time. I have even purchased some sort of sponge container from our local Wal-Mart that is supposed to clean smells. Nothing seems to help. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have cooked fish before but never had this result. Thank you for your column and look forward to your insight. Linda, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Overpower the fish scent by bringing a pot of water to a boil, and squeeze in the juice and rinds from three lemons. Boil for 30 minutes, or until your fish smell is completely gone. You can also toss cloves, cinnamon, or nutmeg into your brew and boil those as well.
QUESTION: In which book is the solution you mentioned about getting rid of aphids with bananas? I have a huge linden tree in my backyard and it seems every summer everything is black because of them. Also, in which book would I find the solution for cleaning the interior of the shower? No matter which product I buy it doesn't seem to really clean. Thank you for your assistance. Always read your column. Margaret, Winnipeg
ANSWER: You can refer to Household Solutions 2 for your aphid challenge. Bananas are great for small inside plants but for a big beautiful linden you will need a larger quantity. In a 1 gallon milk jug, combine 2 tbsp. dish soap, 1 tbsp. rubbing alcohol, dash of Tabasco sauce, 1 tbsp. canola oil and enough water to fill the jug. Pour mixture into spray bottle and apply as needed (double recipe as needed). Another option is to steep cigarette tobacco in water. Leave for two days and spray the tree.
Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives has an entire section devoted to cleaning shower interiors. One of my favourite options is to pour 1 tbsp. baking soda, 1 tsp. dish soap and enough water to fill an 18 oz. spray bottle. Spray, leave for 20 minutes and wipe.
QUESTION: What kind of flower is Dianthus, I have seen it listed as a perennial and as a hardy annual? Megan, (Emerson, MB)
ANSWER: Dave, the Dianthus commonly called 'Sweet William' is an annual as are some others that are called 'Dianthus'. However, many varieties of Dianthus are perennials. So you need to identify exactly which Dianthus you are wanting to plant.
Feedback from readers:
Hello Reena,
In your Winnipeg Free Press column you mentioned that Tang (orange crystals) is okay to use as a cleaner for dishwashers. I would like more information about how to use it. Should it be dissolved or just sprinkled directly into the washer? Thank-you for your interesting and helpful information. Donna, Winnipeg
Donna,
You are not the only person requesting clarification on the subject of using Tang in dishwashers. Since orange crystals contain high amounts of citric acid it makes a great cleaner for the interior of commercial dishwashers. Once a month fill the detergent dispenser of the dishwasher with 2-3 tbsp. Tang. The dishwasher may be either full of dishes or empty. Run the dishwasher as normal. The purpose of using Tang in the dishwasher is two-fold, first it cleans out the hoses behind the dishwasher and secondly it cleans the interior of the dishwasher. Please note that this process will not zap rust stains in dishwashers.
Fabulous Tips of the Week:
* To protect your plants from cutworms, cut out the bottom of a margarine container and press it into the dirt around your plants.
* Plant mint between cabbages to discourage pests.
* Place large rocks next to garden pepper plants, the sun will warm the rocks and attract heat toward the plants.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming! Check out my web site! www.householdsolutions.org
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Geothermal heating costly, but does pay off
QUESTION: I have a question with regards to geothermal heating.
With the price of electricity and natural gas doing nothing but increasing, I am seriously considering installing geothermal heating. At present, I run a natural gas forced-air furnace that heats my Winnipeg home of about 1,500 square feet.
Next summer, my wife and I will begin landscaping the backyard and I figured why not kill two birds with one stone and get the plumbing in the ground for the heating system. My question is: How deep do I have to go with my piping and how many feet of pipe does an average geothermal system require?
-- George Anthonisen, e-mail
ANSWER: Geothermal heating and cooling systems are getting much attention these days, especially with the growing desire by homeowners and various levels of government to reduce energy consumption in our homes. The answer to your question is completely dependent on several factors in the installation of a geothermal heating/cooling system in your home.
I will describe some of these and other general issues and benefits of this type of system.
Geothermal heating and cooling is a very energy-efficient system that relies on the consistent temperature of the earth, deep below the surface, to provide both winter heat and summer cooling using a heat pump. Without getting into the complicated scientific principles that make this possible, the benefit of this system is significantly reduced HVAC costs for homeowners. The drawback of this system is that many metres of underground piping must be installed, making initial installation costs quite high. Once the system is in place, the lower cost of operation will more than compensate for this factor, but it will take several years to recoup the initial investment. For this reason, I commend you on your progressive attitude in this initiative and for seeking advice prior to commencement of any work.
Many of the early geothermal HVAC systems installed in our area were in rural locations, for a variety of reasons. The main consideration in several of these areas was poor access to natural gas supplies. Natural gas was, historically, a less costly energy source for heating our homes, especially with the advent of high-efficiency furnaces. Electric heating was often accomplished in these areas with electric baseboards, limiting air movement in homes due to the lack of ducting and fans associated with forced air. Humidity issues are more common with this type of heating supply, and electrical energy costs are higher than with comparable gas furnaces. Because of this, many of the current local companies that pioneered geothermal systems were based in rural communities.
The first and most important fact to consider in replacing your existing forced-air heating system with a geothermal one is the size and location of your home and the lot it sits on. To effectively and efficiently install a system of this type, sufficient land must be available to allow for proper heat transfer through the piping from the earth. Although your home is an average size, you may require an above-average-size lot to accomplish this. If you are located in an area where the lots are small and homes closely constructed, you may have to drill far too deep into the soil to get the proper surface area of piping necessary. The alternative is to install many more, shorter and shallower sections of piping, which may take up too large an area under your yard to be practical.
Other factors include restrictions caused by underground services like hydro, water, sewer and natural gas that may prohibit installation of underground piping. Underground water and soil quality may also limit the practicality of this type of system in an urban setting. Check with your local planning office for more information.
You have the right idea in planning for possible upgrades of this type prior to landscaping improvements around your home, but installation of underground piping for this purpose is not something that should be done by amateurs. Requirements are very specific and strict controls are in place to prevent environmental damage from coolant leakage due to improper installation. This type of work should only be done by a licensed HVAC contractor well-versed and trained in geothermal heating systems.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors-Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P.O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Don't despair; here's how to clean up after Picasso
QUESTION: Do you have any tips on how to get regular blue pen ink off the inside of a car? My four-year-old released her inner Picasso on the vinyl interior of my car.
Katie, (Whitemouth, MB)
ANSWER: Ink sometimes comes off easily and other times it dyes the surface and is impossible to remove. Begin by wiping the ink with dish soap and water. If that doesn't work spray hairspray (or rubbing alcohol) onto the spot and wipe. Test on an inconspicuous area first.
P.S. Some people say that the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is the best for removing ballpoint ink.
QUESTION: We have tub decals on the bottom of our tub. Do you have any suggestions as to how to remove them without scratching the enamel of the tub? Thanks!
Sheila, (Steinbach, MB)
ANSWER: In order to remove decals from the bottom of your tub begin by prying a corner of the decal up and holding a blow dryer on the area. Switch the setting to hot and leave for about 3 mins. Peel the decal upward. Or pour boiling water onto one decal at a time, peel. If the decals do not budge spray the decal corner with WD-40. Leave for 15 mins. and scrape with a plastic putty knife.
QUESTION: Can you tell me your homemade recipe for cleaning ceramic top stoves? Someone said you had it in one of your articles but I can't find my paper. Thank-you.
Pat (Winnipeg, MB)
ANSWER: While there are ceramic stove top cleaners available on the market, the easiest way to clean your stove top is with a little tool sold at most places where ceramic tops are sold. This little tool is shaped like a razor blade and takes off the stains left from cooking and oddly enough the blade does not damage the stove.
QUESTION: I know everyone likes to hold onto their "new car smell" as long as possible, however I just bought new furniture and the "new" smell irritates my sinuses. I always have the windows open all summer, but this is bedroom furniture so I am wondering if there is anything I can do to lessen the smell. Is it the wood, because I love that smell of wood or is it the stain? It is a "wood product". Thanks so much for your wonderful column.
Leslie, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The smell that you notice may be the finish or stain applied to the wood during manufacturing. The good news is that the smell will diminish over time. In the meantime find out where the smell is coming from, is it the outside or inside? Begin by cleaning the wood with Murphy's Oil and water. If the smell remains, wash the furniture by painting it with vinegar and a few drops of tea tree oil (or straight vinegar if you do not have tea tree oil), allow the table to air dry (this has had great success). Also, place coffee ground, sprigs of eucalyptus or charcoal inside of the table to absorb odours. After a few days, remove the contents and STUFF the chest full of newspaper. Leave for at least 4 days. Another option is to purchase a product called Odorzout (www.88stink.com). Lastly, check if the smell is coming from the underside of the furniture which may be bare, if this is the case varnish underneath. In any case give your furniture time to air out especially if it was wrapped in plastic and sitting in a warehouse for several months.
Dear Reena,
I really enjoy all your tips in the Winnipeg Free Press. Last Sunday "Olof" from Selkirk wrote you about having trouble finding a phosphate-free dishwasher detergent that was environmentally friendly and worked as well as regular commercial types. You gave a good tip about adding borax and baking soda. I would also like to mention a product I have had great success with. It's called "Bio-Vert/Bio-Green" Automatic Dishwasher Tabs. They are advertised as "Canada's Ecological Choice" I think they are from Quebec. They are made with vegetable-based active agents, and are biodegradable in 28 days. The package also shows the little rabbit symbol for not testing on animals. I bought mine at Wal-Mart. I live in The Pas and we have fairly hard water here, plus I have a no-frills dishwasher. The double-action tabs are nice and flat so they fit easily in my detergent compartment. I find they do a fantastic job - as good as or better than any commercial product I have used in the past, plus I have not had any trouble with my glasses etching. They come in a cardboard box of 30 tabs. I hope you decide to pass this info. on to Olof. I don't normally use a rinse agent because I didn't know there were "green" alternatives. I am looking forward to trying the tip you gave about vinegar and essential oils and to more eco-friendly tips in your columns. Keep up the good work!
-- Joan, The Pas
Dear Reena,
Read Sunday's article re: phosphate-free dishwasher detergent with interest because I am using President's Choice Green tablets and find that they do an excellent job. Also, I use vinegar all the time for various cleaning jobs and it has always worked well for me!!! I try to use as few commercially prepared cleaning products as possible. My cupboards are almost bare of those products. Using phosphate free washer products and dishwashing detergent as well. It's only a small contribution to a better environment but if everyone did even just one thing, it would be helpful.
-- Anonymous
Fabulous Tips
Submitted by Ellen (Selkirk, MB)
* To remove grease spots on wallpaper, make a paste of cornstarch and water. Apply to the area, let dry then brush off.
* To clean pewter, rub it with cabbage leaves.
* To remove smoke stains on mortar between the stones on the front of a fireplace, brush the mortar with water, then brush on a solution of 1 part muriatic acid to 10 parts water. Rinse this off when it stops foaming. Repeat as necessary. Observe extreme caution when handling muriatic acid. Protect the floor and hearth with a plastic drop cloth covered with several layers of newspapers. Protect skin and eyes, and test on an inconspicuous area first. Read instructions and warnings on muriatic acid.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming! Check out my web site! www.householdsolutions.org
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national best sellers, "Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions", "Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets" and the soon to be released book "Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives" available on-line and in stores across Canada.
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Does that telepost need to be attached?
QUESTION: I have read a couple of your articles about telepost adjustment, and you seem very knowledgeable on the subject, so I was hoping you could answer a question for me.
I have recently had a custom house built by a builder in the Sarnia, Ont., region. When the teleposts were installed below the 12-inch steel beam, they were not attached to the beam or floor.
The builder insists that they don't need to be attached; after all, that is how he built his house. We're not sure if he is right. We are getting ready to finish the basement, including boxing in these posts. We want to make sure that they are properly attached, if necessary, before we do.
Any information you could provide would be very much appreciated.
Thanks, Sean Patchett, email
ANSWER: Your question, while interesting in its content alone, opens up an issue about the role of home inspectors in new-home construction. I will give you my opinion on the need for securing of steel teleposts to the beams above and also offer other sources that may provide the more definitive answer you desire.
Teleposts are adjustable steel columns that are installed under beams and other floor-structure components in the basements of most homes. They contain a threaded rod near the top of the post that supports a small steel plate under the beam. The rod is threaded to allow for subtle adjustment of the post up or down to compensate for settlement or heaving in the foundation of the home. Access to the threaded rod section is critical, even after you complete your basement finishing, so installing an access panel in the boxes you plan to build around the posts is important.
To elaborate on my earlier comment about the role of home inspectors in new homes, the question of the need to secure the top plate of the teleposts to the underside of the steel beam is not cut and dried. Home inspectors are educated and trained to provide comments and recommendations on issues in our homes that are performance-based. That differs, somewhat, from the role of municipal building inspectors who are more concerned with adherence to building codes. Codes certainly address issues of performance, but not always directly. Various codes may describe proper installation techniques, but are normally technical in nature and often leave specific details up to the interpretation of the individuals involved in the construction process. That list may include architects, designers, engineers, contractors, sub-trades and ultimately the building official in charge of ensuring that the construction practised meets the intent of the codes.
Because so many individuals may be involved in the proper application of codes that allow for some variation in unusual or new situations, a grey area may exist. Your question on the need to secure the top plate to the steel beam is a prime example of this challenging situation in your new home. I am not sure if the building codes specifically require attaching the top plate to the beam, but it is good practice to do so. Unfortunately, if the building plans or architectural drawings for your home do not include a specific detail that shows a required method for securing the posts to the beam, it may not be required by the local building inspector. The plans should have been reviewed by a professional engineer to ensure the structural integrity of the design, and he or she may not have seen fit to require the detail to be identified, leaving that up to the builder's interpretation. The municipality should have reviewed the plan, but may have deferred to the engineer's review that the structural details for securing the post were not necessary to elaborate on in great detail.
While this explanation may seem vague, this complex situation is one of the reasons why so many new homeowners, like you, are dissatisfied with various aspects of their homes. One solution is to consult a home inspector that is independent of either the municipality or the builder for another opinion. That opinion should not be based on interpretation of building codes, which is the building official's job, but whether the performance of the system will require the change. Good building practices suggest that securing the teleposts to the beam by welding or bolting the top plates will prevent the possibility of the posts moving or falling out from under the beam. In reality, this is not very likely to occur after the load of the entire home is placed upon this area, but it can happen. If the foundation, teleposts, or footings heave or settle unevenly, one or more teleposts could become loose and subject to movement.
To properly access the answer to your question, I would consult the local municipal building inspector in Sarnia that was responsible for inspecting your home. That will address the question of whether the builder was truthful in his assessment of the need for securing the plate to the beam. If it is indeed required, then that should be the builder's responsibility to fix. If the building official states that it isn't required, then I suggest you obtain a quote from another contractor to do the repair and then decide if your peace of mind is worth the value of the quote. If you do want another direct opinion, I have two very good friends who are both Registered Home Inspectors and National Certificate Holders in your area and would be happy to provide their contact information to you.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P.O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
