Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Don't despair; here's how to clean up after Picasso
QUESTION: Do you have any tips on how to get regular blue pen ink off the inside of a car? My four-year-old released her inner Picasso on the vinyl interior of my car.
Katie, (Whitemouth, MB)
ANSWER: Ink sometimes comes off easily and other times it dyes the surface and is impossible to remove. Begin by wiping the ink with dish soap and water. If that doesn't work spray hairspray (or rubbing alcohol) onto the spot and wipe. Test on an inconspicuous area first.
P.S. Some people say that the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is the best for removing ballpoint ink.
QUESTION: We have tub decals on the bottom of our tub. Do you have any suggestions as to how to remove them without scratching the enamel of the tub? Thanks!
Sheila, (Steinbach, MB)
ANSWER: In order to remove decals from the bottom of your tub begin by prying a corner of the decal up and holding a blow dryer on the area. Switch the setting to hot and leave for about 3 mins. Peel the decal upward. Or pour boiling water onto one decal at a time, peel. If the decals do not budge spray the decal corner with WD-40. Leave for 15 mins. and scrape with a plastic putty knife.
QUESTION: Can you tell me your homemade recipe for cleaning ceramic top stoves? Someone said you had it in one of your articles but I can't find my paper. Thank-you.
Pat (Winnipeg, MB)
ANSWER: While there are ceramic stove top cleaners available on the market, the easiest way to clean your stove top is with a little tool sold at most places where ceramic tops are sold. This little tool is shaped like a razor blade and takes off the stains left from cooking and oddly enough the blade does not damage the stove.
QUESTION: I know everyone likes to hold onto their "new car smell" as long as possible, however I just bought new furniture and the "new" smell irritates my sinuses. I always have the windows open all summer, but this is bedroom furniture so I am wondering if there is anything I can do to lessen the smell. Is it the wood, because I love that smell of wood or is it the stain? It is a "wood product". Thanks so much for your wonderful column.
Leslie, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The smell that you notice may be the finish or stain applied to the wood during manufacturing. The good news is that the smell will diminish over time. In the meantime find out where the smell is coming from, is it the outside or inside? Begin by cleaning the wood with Murphy's Oil and water. If the smell remains, wash the furniture by painting it with vinegar and a few drops of tea tree oil (or straight vinegar if you do not have tea tree oil), allow the table to air dry (this has had great success). Also, place coffee ground, sprigs of eucalyptus or charcoal inside of the table to absorb odours. After a few days, remove the contents and STUFF the chest full of newspaper. Leave for at least 4 days. Another option is to purchase a product called Odorzout (www.88stink.com). Lastly, check if the smell is coming from the underside of the furniture which may be bare, if this is the case varnish underneath. In any case give your furniture time to air out especially if it was wrapped in plastic and sitting in a warehouse for several months.
Dear Reena,
I really enjoy all your tips in the Winnipeg Free Press. Last Sunday "Olof" from Selkirk wrote you about having trouble finding a phosphate-free dishwasher detergent that was environmentally friendly and worked as well as regular commercial types. You gave a good tip about adding borax and baking soda. I would also like to mention a product I have had great success with. It's called "Bio-Vert/Bio-Green" Automatic Dishwasher Tabs. They are advertised as "Canada's Ecological Choice" I think they are from Quebec. They are made with vegetable-based active agents, and are biodegradable in 28 days. The package also shows the little rabbit symbol for not testing on animals. I bought mine at Wal-Mart. I live in The Pas and we have fairly hard water here, plus I have a no-frills dishwasher. The double-action tabs are nice and flat so they fit easily in my detergent compartment. I find they do a fantastic job - as good as or better than any commercial product I have used in the past, plus I have not had any trouble with my glasses etching. They come in a cardboard box of 30 tabs. I hope you decide to pass this info. on to Olof. I don't normally use a rinse agent because I didn't know there were "green" alternatives. I am looking forward to trying the tip you gave about vinegar and essential oils and to more eco-friendly tips in your columns. Keep up the good work!
-- Joan, The Pas
Dear Reena,
Read Sunday's article re: phosphate-free dishwasher detergent with interest because I am using President's Choice Green tablets and find that they do an excellent job. Also, I use vinegar all the time for various cleaning jobs and it has always worked well for me!!! I try to use as few commercially prepared cleaning products as possible. My cupboards are almost bare of those products. Using phosphate free washer products and dishwashing detergent as well. It's only a small contribution to a better environment but if everyone did even just one thing, it would be helpful.
-- Anonymous
Fabulous Tips
Submitted by Ellen (Selkirk, MB)
* To remove grease spots on wallpaper, make a paste of cornstarch and water. Apply to the area, let dry then brush off.
* To clean pewter, rub it with cabbage leaves.
* To remove smoke stains on mortar between the stones on the front of a fireplace, brush the mortar with water, then brush on a solution of 1 part muriatic acid to 10 parts water. Rinse this off when it stops foaming. Repeat as necessary. Observe extreme caution when handling muriatic acid. Protect the floor and hearth with a plastic drop cloth covered with several layers of newspapers. Protect skin and eyes, and test on an inconspicuous area first. Read instructions and warnings on muriatic acid.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming! Check out my web site! www.householdsolutions.org
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national best sellers, "Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions", "Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets" and the soon to be released book "Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives" available on-line and in stores across Canada.
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Does that telepost need to be attached?
QUESTION: I have read a couple of your articles about telepost adjustment, and you seem very knowledgeable on the subject, so I was hoping you could answer a question for me.
I have recently had a custom house built by a builder in the Sarnia, Ont., region. When the teleposts were installed below the 12-inch steel beam, they were not attached to the beam or floor.
The builder insists that they don't need to be attached; after all, that is how he built his house. We're not sure if he is right. We are getting ready to finish the basement, including boxing in these posts. We want to make sure that they are properly attached, if necessary, before we do.
Any information you could provide would be very much appreciated.
Thanks, Sean Patchett, email
ANSWER: Your question, while interesting in its content alone, opens up an issue about the role of home inspectors in new-home construction. I will give you my opinion on the need for securing of steel teleposts to the beams above and also offer other sources that may provide the more definitive answer you desire.
Teleposts are adjustable steel columns that are installed under beams and other floor-structure components in the basements of most homes. They contain a threaded rod near the top of the post that supports a small steel plate under the beam. The rod is threaded to allow for subtle adjustment of the post up or down to compensate for settlement or heaving in the foundation of the home. Access to the threaded rod section is critical, even after you complete your basement finishing, so installing an access panel in the boxes you plan to build around the posts is important.
To elaborate on my earlier comment about the role of home inspectors in new homes, the question of the need to secure the top plate of the teleposts to the underside of the steel beam is not cut and dried. Home inspectors are educated and trained to provide comments and recommendations on issues in our homes that are performance-based. That differs, somewhat, from the role of municipal building inspectors who are more concerned with adherence to building codes. Codes certainly address issues of performance, but not always directly. Various codes may describe proper installation techniques, but are normally technical in nature and often leave specific details up to the interpretation of the individuals involved in the construction process. That list may include architects, designers, engineers, contractors, sub-trades and ultimately the building official in charge of ensuring that the construction practised meets the intent of the codes.
Because so many individuals may be involved in the proper application of codes that allow for some variation in unusual or new situations, a grey area may exist. Your question on the need to secure the top plate to the steel beam is a prime example of this challenging situation in your new home. I am not sure if the building codes specifically require attaching the top plate to the beam, but it is good practice to do so. Unfortunately, if the building plans or architectural drawings for your home do not include a specific detail that shows a required method for securing the posts to the beam, it may not be required by the local building inspector. The plans should have been reviewed by a professional engineer to ensure the structural integrity of the design, and he or she may not have seen fit to require the detail to be identified, leaving that up to the builder's interpretation. The municipality should have reviewed the plan, but may have deferred to the engineer's review that the structural details for securing the post were not necessary to elaborate on in great detail.
While this explanation may seem vague, this complex situation is one of the reasons why so many new homeowners, like you, are dissatisfied with various aspects of their homes. One solution is to consult a home inspector that is independent of either the municipality or the builder for another opinion. That opinion should not be based on interpretation of building codes, which is the building official's job, but whether the performance of the system will require the change. Good building practices suggest that securing the teleposts to the beam by welding or bolting the top plates will prevent the possibility of the posts moving or falling out from under the beam. In reality, this is not very likely to occur after the load of the entire home is placed upon this area, but it can happen. If the foundation, teleposts, or footings heave or settle unevenly, one or more teleposts could become loose and subject to movement.
To properly access the answer to your question, I would consult the local municipal building inspector in Sarnia that was responsible for inspecting your home. That will address the question of whether the builder was truthful in his assessment of the need for securing the plate to the beam. If it is indeed required, then that should be the builder's responsibility to fix. If the building official states that it isn't required, then I suggest you obtain a quote from another contractor to do the repair and then decide if your peace of mind is worth the value of the quote. If you do want another direct opinion, I have two very good friends who are both Registered Home Inspectors and National Certificate Holders in your area and would be happy to provide their contact information to you.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P.O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Tang it... who knew?
QUESTION: I bought a new dishwasher on the weekend. The salesman said, "Don't buy the commercial monthly cleaning stuff, buy Tang instead." Is he right, or a nut? Gary, (Steinbach)
ANSWER: Nope, he's not a nut. The citric acid in Tang makes an excellent cleaner for dishwashers and costs only pennies compared to commercial brands!
QUESTION: How do you remove the taste of onions and garlic from frying pans and cutting boards? I find my grilled sandwiches taste like onions, even though I haven't used onion in the recipe... the taste of onions remains in the frying pan even after washing the frying pan. I think I've tried everything. D, (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: To rid your life of a smelly cutting board, clean it with a damp cloth and a combination of baking soda and three per cent hydrogen peroxide. Peroxide is not only safer but also more effective than chlorine bleach to sanitize wood. Bleach, even at full strength, is not always effective at sanitizing wooden cutting boards, because the disinfectant quality of bleach can be neutralized by the organic composition of wood. Chlorine bleach solution is short-lived, especially when diluted and if used should be prepared fresh for each use.
Another option is to spread baking soda over the cutting board and then spray with white vinegar. Let it foam and bubble for five to 10 minutes, then rinse with a cloth dipped in clean, cold water. Wipe and allow it to dry in an upright position. All cutting boards, and other food surfaces, should be kept dry when not in use; resident bacteria survive no more than a few hours without moisture. Do not soak wooden cutting boards, and do not put them in the dishwasher. If the cutting board is plastic, toss it in the dishwasher and run the cycle.
Extra tip: If you use only one cutting board at home, brand a small "V" on one side and an "M" on the other (V for veggies and M for meat). Prepare raw vegetables first, and then flip cutting board over to prepare meats. Sanitize both sides; you should never put yourself in danger of cross-contamination.
In order to rid your cooking pan of onion and garlic odour, line the bottom of the pan with aluminum foil. Pour running water over the foil. The metal is an excellent odour absorber and should quickly zap foul smells.
QUESTION: Can you please tell me how to fix a small scratch on my new marble table? Nell, (Neepawa)
ANSWER: If the scratch is slight, you can fix it yourself by using a course-grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. If the scratch is deep, however, or if you're uneasy about repairing it yourself and possibly damaging the marble, consult a professional.
QUESTION: I have a limestone patio that has become stained with green algae. Do you have any suggestions on how to keep the algae/slimy green stuff from sticking to the limestone? Susan, (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: Let's begin with cleaning limestone and then move onto protecting it. Do not use products that contain lemon juice, vinegar or other acids on marble, limestone or travertine. As well, avoid using products that contain abrasive cleaners, cleansers (dry or soft) or any ammonia-based cleaners. These products will dull its lustre. Careful pressure washing is one option in cleaning algae on limestone or flush with clear water and use a mild bleach solution, scrub with good old-fashioned elbow grease and a green sponge. However, if you have a large area and would like to clean more efficiently, mix a product called MB-9 with water in a proportion of 1:1 in a power washer, spray and rinse.
To prevent reoccurring algae growth on limestone, seal the stone so that moisture cannot penetrate it. By stopping water absorption, you will stop the continual presence of water, therefore breaking the cycle of growth. In other words, you will stop water absorption by using the appropriate sealer.
Fabulous tips of the Week:
* Tackle roof repairs on a warm day when shingles are soft and pliable. You'll be less likely to crack the shingles as you walk on them or fold them back and the roofing cement will stick better.
* Baking soda makes an inexpensive control for powdery mildew on plants. The baking soda fungicide is effective as a preventative measure, offering only minimal benefits after your plants have become infected. Weekly spraying of susceptible plants during humid or damp weather can greatly reduce the incidence of powdery mildew in your garden. Combine 1 tbsp. baking soda, half tsp. dish soap and 1 gallon water. Do not store unused mixture. While this recipe has been known to be effective, it can burn the leaves of some plants. It is recommended that you water your infected plants well a couple of days before applying this mixture, and don't apply it in full sun. Try on a small area first, to test the plant's response before spraying the entire plant.
* Whip up an effective insect and animal repellent for the flowers and vegetables in your garden. In a blender, purée 4 onions, 2 cloves garlic, 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper, and 1 quart water. Set the mixture aside. Next, dilute 2 tbsp. soap flakes in 2 gallons water. Pour in the contents of your blender, shake or stir well, and you have a potent, environment-friendly solution to spray on your plants.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming!
Check out my web site! www.householdsolutions.org
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national best sellers, "Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions", "Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets" and the soon to be released book "Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives" available on-line and in stores across Canada.
