Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Get the lead out... don't strip paint indoors
QUESTION: I've been contemplating a large project and I thought you would be the best person to ask.
I live in a 1920s home. The baseboards and trim have been painted over the years. I'm contemplating removing the paint, starting with the doors because they can be removed from the house.
I've been surfing the Internet and I've come across this tool "the silent paint remover," which removes paint using infrared heat. I've phoned a couple of places in the city and no one seems to have heard of it. It appears that it is relatively new. It states that it is safe for removal of lead paint and can remove 10 to 15 layers at a time.
The doors, baseboards and trim are fir. I also have two children, 11 and nine, so my first thoughts are for their safety due to likely lead in the paint. What I would most likely do is remove the baseboards and trim and work on them outside of the house.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
-- J. Braun, email
ANSWER: I admire homeowners, like you, who aspire to undertake projects that not only enhance the cosmetics in their home, but strive to return it to its original grandeur. Unfortunately, some efforts may not be worth it. Yours may fall into this category, partially because of the potential for lead in the paint, as you have noted.
Many older homes have lovely, large wooden trim around the doors, windows and baseboards that may have multiple layers of paint and finish added over the original.
I have never seen infrared heat used to remove old paint, but I don't see why it would not work. I do, however, have a concern that it would be a potential health hazard if the old paint is lead-based. Many house paints produced before the 1960s contained significant amounts of lead, which was gradually phased out over the next couple of decades. The hazards of this material are realized only when it becomes damaged by removal or flaking. Small chips of lead-based paints can be ingested by small children, creating a potential for serious lead poisoning. The lead can also be released into the environment and subject to breathing in by sanding or burning. You are well-advised to attempt your paint removal outside, as suggested, but proper breathing protection should also be worn. A proper respirator rated for lead dust and fumes should be worn, no matter what tool is used to remove the old paint.
As I stated, I have not seen the infrared paint removal tool you have mentioned, but have frequently used an inexpensive electric heat gun for this task. These work quite well, especially when multiple layers of paint are applied. If you can't source the fancier tool, a heat gun combined with a putty knife and sandpaper may be the most cost-effective way to get the old paint off. Alternatively, chemical paint strippers can be used, but these may be quite messy and costly if you are doing a large amount of wood trim. The benefits of the second method is the significantly reduced chance of introducing lead dust or fumes into the air, but many of these chemicals are quite corrosive and not very environmentally friendly to dispose of.
The main issue to explore, beside the lead exposure potential, is the final results after the extensive work to remove multiple layers of old paint. Unfortunately, old fir may look quite good if it has the original stain and varnish, or has been refinished without ever being painted, but not once it's painted. Oil-based paints can penetrate the older varnish or shellac originally applied to the fir and may be impossible to completely remove. The residues from this paint may permanently tint or discolour the old fir, which may be extremely difficult or impossible to remove after decades of being painted.
My recommendation is to purchase a low-cost heat gun and experiment with a small piece of casing or baseboard, before attempting to remove doors. If you are successful in removing all the old paint and varnish to your satisfaction, then the doors can be attempted.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
Here's how to make your summer sojourn safe
The summer exodus has begun, as people head for family cottages dotting lakesides and hilly country lanes. Here are some timely tips to help you have a carefree summer in cottage country..
Install smoke detectors on each floor and outside each sleeping area. If alarms are in place, install new batteries and check to ensure that alarms are still operable.
Smoke detector should be replaced at least every 10 years. Pack an extra one, just in case.
Install carbon monoxide alarms in the cottage if it has a fuel-burning appliance.
Check heating appliances and chimneys before using. Burn candles in sturdy, glass-enclosed holders. Don't leave them unattended.
Develop and practise a fire escape plan, ensuring that everyone knows what to do if the alarm sounds. Know the phone number for the local fire department and the cottage's explicit location in case of emergency.
Clean barbecues before using. Keep kids, pets and combustibles away from lit barbecues, and never leave it unattended.
Keep barbecue lighters and matches out of reach and sight of the kids. Remember to bring flashlights and extra batteries.
Smoke only outdoors and douse the butts in water. You don't want to risk a brush fire.
Check with the municipality to see if open burning is permitted before having a campfire.
If allowed, build your fire carefully, on bare soil or exposed rock.
Remove leaves and twigs from around the fire to contain it.
Keep a bucket of water or sand close by to control spread. Never leave a fire unattended, and thoroughly douse all embers before you leave it.
If you drink, do so responsibly. A stay at the cottage is too precious to risk disaster.
-- Canwest News Service
Renovation & Design
Questions to ask when buying a hot tub
You've decided to take the plunge: This summer, you'll while away your evenings, wine glass at hand, in a steamy, bubbling hot tub. But before you hire an electrician and start moving the flower beds to make room for your luxurious backyard spa, here are five key questions to ask.
How much will it cost?
A good tub runs between $7,000 and $9,000 before tax. That should get you everything you need, including room for three to seven people, a cover, delivery and setup. Other costs, such as a gravel or concrete base ($750 to $1,000) and the electrical hookup ($500 and up) are extra. To run an efficient tub year-round, expect an increase of $350 to $500 on your hydro bill.
What's the tub made of and how powerful is its circulating system?
Look for a tub made of fibreglass-backed acrylic, not ABS plastic, because it's stronger, says Tim Wilson, a hot tub sales representative at Mermaid Pools in Ottawa.
When it comes to the circulating pump, he says ask about "design" (or "true") horsepower: It should be roughly one horsepower for every five to eight jets.
What about the warranty and after-sale service?
Joe Corke, a hot tub sales representative at Purewater Total Home Leisure in Ottawa, says it's important to ask: Is the warranty full or pro-rated, does it cover parts, labour and travel to your home, and does it start from the day of sale or the day of delivery?
Make sure the acrylic lining, which cannot be replaced, has at least a 20-year warranty. Look for three years and up on pumps, heater and other components. Ask who does the servicing.
A retailer with in-house technicians is best.
Can I try before I buy?
Bring your swim suit for a trial dip. At the very least, climb into a dry tub and make sure it feels right.
"When you're sitting in the tub at home," said Corke, "you're not turning to the person next to you and saying, 'I love the filtration system!' You should be saying, 'Wow, this feels awesome!' "
How much maintenance is involved?
Maintenance is do-it-yourself: weekly addition of bromine to keep the water sanitary, regular balancing of pH, alkalinity and other levels, replacing the water every three or four months, and an annual flushing of water lines. Creams, makeup and perfumes upset
--Canwest News Service
