Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Apply 'rule of finger' to stone façade
QUESTION: I bought a stucco-clad house that was builder-built in the 1970s. It has a decorative Tyndall stone front around my main front window, which runs from the under the roof line to the ground, from the corner of the house to the front door. I have discovered a large crack on the side of the house that looks like the stone is separating from the front. What kind of contractor should be used to repair this and what type of experience should the contractor or stone specialist have in order to repair this problem. Also, what price range would be a reasonable cost? In other words, if the job is only a $500 job and if someone offers to do it for $100, I would like to know that there is something up with that. I really need an answer as I am dealing with a serious illness and if this is a major repair, I will need to deal with it sooner rather than later.
Patric Frena, email
ANSWER: One of the most common items I see during inspections on stucco homes with stone or brick veneer on the front is a crack between the two at the side walls. This crack typically occurs due to shrinkage and movement of two dissimilar siding materials. These will each expand and contract at different rates and a crack between the two is almost inevitable. In most cases this is not serious, but can be if the stone veneer is pulling away from the wall and not just subject to normal seasonal forces.
The first thing for you to determine is whether the crack is excessive in size, due to loose stones, or typical, due to normal shrinkage. A quick method for this evaluation may be to apply a common rule of thumb, or in this case finger, to measure the gap. If your small finger or index finger can easily fit into the fissure between the stone and stucco, there may be something to worry about. If the gap is 10 millimetres or less in width, it is doubtful that the stone is moving significantly. This should be an average measurement as the crack may be uneven in its length, due to small pieces of stucco or mortar that have fallen out or crumbled over time.
If the crack is substantially larger than the above guideline or any bowing or excessive cracking can be seen in the stone veneer, professional help may be required. Stone and brick veneers should be uniform and straight, with only minor mortar cracks visible. If horizontal cracks are seen at mortar joints that run more than the length of a few stones, there may be movement that requires repair. The masonry veneer façade is typically attached to the exterior sheathing of the house with small metal ties at various points, but these can come loose due to improper securing or excessive moisture and corrosion. The heavy stones should also be supported directly on the foundation or a metal angle iron bolted to the foundation. If there is damage to the foundation or the angle iron underneath the veneer is loose, then movement is the likely cause of the cracking.
If the crack is less than 10 centimetres in width and no major signs of movement are evident, filling the crack is the only required repair. This can often be accomplished by applying a large bead of flexible caulking, rated for exterior use, to the full length of the crack. This can be installed with only a caulking gun, ladder and minimal other tools. This type of repair should be in the minor cost range that you have noted. While minimal in cost, it is still quite important to do the repair to prevent moisture intrusion through the opening. Too much seepage can damage the sheathing or wall behind the veneer or cause more damage to the stucco and stone due expansion of the water as it freezes and thaws.
If the gap between the two siding materials fails the finger test, or excessive cracking is seen in the stone veneer, then it is time to call in the pros. This job should be evaluated by an experienced stone mason to determine the proper course of action. The repair may range from a minor re-pointing of deteriorated mortar to removal and reinstallation of loose stones. Cost will obviously depend on the severity of the damage and a reputable mason should only recommend what is necessary.
As I have already stated, most of the cracking that I see in exterior walls in the area you describe in your home is minor and can even be repaired by a handyman or homeowner.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Olive oil, cold cream good for dry leather
QUESTION: I am wondering if you would mind clarifying something in your books. The leather in my parents' sofa is starting to dry out. As such, they want to treat it with a moisturizer. One of your books suggests using olive oil to moisturize leather, and another one of your books suggests using cold cream. Which would be the best for what they need it for? If you use olive oil, wouldn't it leave a sticky residue and maybe even start smelling bad (rancid oil)? What is cold cream, and would it work for this application? Thanks in advance for your help with this!
ANSWER: Both olive oil and cold cream have had great results on leather. Just be sure to test both on an inconspicuous area first. Apply one or the other to a soft cloth and wipe on leather in a circular motion. Remove all excess. Leather is porous and therefore the grease will absorb into the fabric without sitting on top, leaving a smell or attracting dust. Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various scent agents, designed to smooth skin and remove makeup. You will find cold cream where face products are sold.
QUESTION: I am wondering if you have a remedy for cleaning tea stains off bone china cups and saucers. I don't want to use anything that will take the pattern or gold rim off of the cups. Thanks in advance.
Lois, Winnipeg
ANSWER: For really tough stains on china cups, use one of the following cleaning techniques: Place a denture tablet inside the cup and fill with hot water. Leave overnight. The stain should dissolve. Or wipe stains with whitening toothpaste. Or make a paste of baking soda (or washing soda) and water and scrub cups and saucers. Or put one teaspoon citric acid, oneteaspoon lemon juice and fill the remainder of the cup with hot water. Leave overnight. Note: Wear gloves when working with washing soda.
QUESTION: I washed and hung a white sweater on a painted hanger to dry. Unfortunately, I didn't notice that the hanger's paint was chipped in places. So now my white sweater has rust stains on the shoulders! Any suggestions for removing these stains? Thanks for your help. I find your column so interesting.
Marilyn, Winnipeg
ANSWER: One solution that I find very effective on fabric rust stains is pouring hydrogen peroxide (or lemon juice) onto the stain and sprinkling it with cream of tartar. Leave the item in the bright sun for a day and wash. Works very well. Or chop a few stalks of rhubarb with water and cook. Hold the stain in the boiling rhubarb water for a few seconds. Great results, and your pot will sparkle as well. Taken from Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions.
QUESTION: I have drugstore beetles in my kitchen cupboards containing cereals, pasta and rice. These items are all stored in 500 ml freezable food containers. I throw out contaminated food and wash the containers and shelves, but the beetles are back in no time. Any suggestions?
Shirley, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The simplest way to get rid of drugstore beetles is to locate the source of the infestation and quickly get rid of it. Use a flashlight or other light to examine all food storage areas and food products. Get rid of heavily infested foods by collecting them in heavy plastic bags or in sealed containers for garbage disposal.
When you purchase foods, check packaging dates to establish freshness. Stay away from broken and damaged items. Purchase rarely used foods in small quantities to prevent storage periods of one month or more, especially during warm months. Store foods in insect-proof containers -- glass, heavy plastic, or metal with screw-type lids -- or store in a refrigerator or freezer. Properly ventilate the storage area to discourage these moisture-loving pests.
Foods with questionable infestations can be heated in a shallow pan in the oven at 120 degrees F (48.9 C) for 1 hour or place in a deep freeze at 0 degrees F (-17.8 C) for 4 hours; or heat in a microwave oven for 5 minutes. Heat dried fruits or vegetables by placing them in a cheesecloth bag and dipping in boiling water for 10 seconds. After removing all food, food packages and dishes from the cupboard, shelves or storage area, use a strong suction vacuum cleaner with proper attachments to clean all spilled foods from crevices behind and under appliances and furniture. Pull out heavy appliances from the wall and scrub with soap and hot water. After shelves are dry, cover with clean, fresh paper or foil. It is not recommended to use insecticides around food, but do so if the infestation persists. Clear out the kitchen and put all food that may be affected into the freezer. Spray Raid or call a professional pest-control service to tackle the problem. If using a strong chemical, be sure to wash all shelves and walls before returning the food to the shelves.
QUESTION: Now, here's a situation you might not have heard of before. I wear rubber gloves for doing dishes. Over the years I have accumulated dozens of gloves for the right hand and thrown away dozens of gloves for the left hand. I'm left-handed and find it's that hand that gets the pokes and holes from knives and other sharp items while dishwashing. I've tried to think of how I can repair the small hole in the rubber glove, to no avail. Can't bring myself to discard the right-hand gloves! What ideas do you have to remedy this situation?
Joy, Narcisse
ANSWER: Although there is no effective way to fix torn rubber gloves, if you always wear out one rubber glove, start saving all the good gloves and by turning half of them inside out you will gain a few extra pairs. Or cut good fingertips off one pair of torn rubber gloves and put them into torn glove fingertips to reinforce them. Also, consider alternative uses for rubber gloves: Cut them into circles and they are great non-slip grippers on things such as a stuck jar lid. Or cut the fingers off a torn rubber glove and slip them over mop and broom handles. That way, when you lean them against the wall they don't slide or create marks on the wall. Cover chair feet with the fingers of rubber gloves to protect floors. Or cut strips on the round, both the hand part and fingers, and use as rubber bands. Cut off the index-finger piece from the torn rubber glove and you have an ideal sheath for your finger the next time you have to sort through a stack of papers. Love the question!
I enjoy your questions and tips. Keep them coming! Check out my website www.householdsolutions.org
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Zonolite in the attic? Better to leave it be
QUESTION: Thanks for the column on the Zonolite class-action suit in January. I had read the facts sheet on the website, but did not get from it that only a small portion of the removal/abatement cost would ultimately be covered.
Before reading your column, I had already contacted the lawyer listed and received back a standard email that led me to believe my questions were not read. It just redirected me to the Q and A webpage of www.graceclaims.com as well as their own class action info webpage.
I sent a second email explaining that I had read the info page already but had two questions. A second email arrived with more info, but still nothing that indicated we needed to have already paid for removal/abatement, nor that it would not cover much of this cost anyway.
While we have no intention currently of selling our home, I am concerned about what will happen within the next 20 or so years when my husband and I decide we want to sell our farmyard. We have heard of cases in Ontario where deals have fallen through due to Zonolite presence. So if we do not remove it now, we may be forced to do so at a later date.
The advice from government/health websites has been to not disturb it and seal up every miniscule crack or openings around fixtures in ceilings. Tradespeople we have spoken to seem to think it's a problem only if the insulation becomes visible during renovations, which we want to start this year. Given that the dangerous part of the insulation is invisible to the naked eye and highly friable, I find this odd.
Even people we have talked to who are involved in abatement or removal ask why we think removal is necessary. Given the cost, I don't wonder why. We received an estimate of $15,000 from Power Vac to remove it from our bungalow's 1,000-square-foot attic. Since this is so expensive, do you suppose there will be many who have undertaken the expense and so be able to file a claim?
At any rate, my husband and I will have to soon make our decisions based on the conflicting info we have received about whether to leave it sit or remove it. I suppose nothing short of a crystal ball would help with these concerns.
Barb Galbraith, email
ANSWER: While I strive not to answer similar questions more than once a year, a recent inspection that uncovered large amounts of vermiculite in the attics of a home prompted me to revisit this issue, previously covered in January. I am impressed with the level of research you have done and will offer some further advice so that you can rely on more building-science-based information for your decision. To properly revisit this topic, I will describe the current issue with this type of insulation.
Several years ago, it was discovered that most of the vermiculite insulation that was produced under the brand name Zonolite, which originated from minerals from a mine in Montana, contained high amounts of asbestos. This insulation may have been installed in attics in homes in Canada during the 1970s and 1980s. At the time, it was approved for use under a federal government insulation program, so was widely used across the country. There may be thousands of homes in Canada that have Zonolite currently in their attics, and sometimes walls.
While I understand your concern with future sale of your home, I don't agree that removal should be done, unless absolutely necessary. Asbestos in homes is only a concern if the products that contain it become disturbed, either by damage or by physically moving the products. This may allow the asbestos fibres to become friable, airborne and subject to breathing in by occupants of the home. If you have a reasonably well sealed attic, there is almost no possibility of this happening if nobody enters the attic space. If you have a contractor enter the attic with the expressed desire to remove the offending material, it will have to be grossly disturbed in the process. That will likely release large amounts of friable material, creating a potential problem that didn't exist when the insulation was left dormant.
To allow for this problem during removal, extreme measures must be taken to prevent loose fibres from contaminating the living space of the home. This will require sealing large areas of the home with plastic and installation of large fans to create a negative pressure situation in the attic. Once removal is complete, a major cleanup will be required followed by indoor air quality and laboratory testing of other samples from the home to ensure it is asbestos free. That is the real reason for the ridiculously high cost of removal. It is simply that the precautionary steps required to prevent contamination of the home are time-consuming and expensive.
If the material is left undisturbed, not only will there be little chance of loose asbestos fibres entering the living space and being inhaled, there will be no need for expensive remediation. I agree with Health Canada and other government sources that recommend leaving it alone. Despite some over-reactionary panic in other provinces, such as parts of Ontario as mentioned, I would not be too concerned about resale of homes with vermiculite in the attics. If that does become a larger issue in the future, I would expect the government would have to become involved in some form of compensation as there would be thousands of affected homeowners across the country that have a product that was once approved for use in their attics.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Get that grease off your wooden cabinets
QUESTION: First of all, I would like to tell you that your books are great! Secondly, what would you use to clean grease off of wooden cabinets caused by frying foods in the kitchen?
Denise, Winnipeg
ANSWER: There are several options for zapping greasy cupboards. Begin with the easiest and work your way up to more aggressive solutions. Regular cleaning is key! Combine Dawn dish soap and water, use an abrasive cloth to scrub wood along the grain. Or clean cupboards with Murphy's Oil Soap, scrub and rinse. Or use the following Mother Hubbard's Cupboard recipe: Combine 1-2 cups vinegar, 1 cup ammonia (optional), half-cup baking soda and 2 gallons water. Cover hands with rubber gloves and draw a small amount onto a sponge, wipe each cupboard (from top to bottom to prevent streaking). Apply olive oil once a month to protect wood. Apply car wax every six months, let dry and buff. Or clean cupboards with TSP (trisodium phosphate), rinse well. Test all solutions on an inconspicuous area first. Worst-case scenario, lightly sand and then clean with Mother Hubbard's Cupboard recipe. Taken from Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets.
QUESTION: I have no idea how to keep moths away from my closet; those pesky little things destroy my woollen sweaters. I put cedar everywhere but they still enter "the dining room." Do you have any advice on how to solve this problem?
Kindest regards, Monika, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Get rid of moths using one or a combination of the following: Cloves, dried lavender, rosemary, mint, thyme, cinnamon sticks, eucalyptus, peppercorns, dried lemon peel and cedar (chips, balls, planks or essential oil-cedar lined closets, drawers or trunks). These natural fragrances are delightful to humans but will keep moths away. You can make sachets to stash in drawers and trunks or hang in closets using: pretty cotton fabrics, plain cheesecloth, muslin, linen or clean nylons (knee-highs or cut pantyhose). Next, dry-clean or thoroughly wash items in hot water (temperature above 50 C [120� F] for 20 to 30 minutes) kills all stages of insects. This is the most common and effective method for controlling moths in clothing, blankets and other washable articles. For items that cannot be hot-washed, wrap in plastic and place in the freezer for a day. Mothballs containing the chemicals naphthalene or pardichlorobenzene are a dangerous solution. The balls produce vapours that, in sufficient concentration, will slowly kill insects. However, if the container is not airtight, the chemicals only weakly repel adults and any larvae already on clothes continue to feed. In addition, the balls give off a distinctive and unpleasant smell that can be very difficult to remove even after cleaning. They are poisonous and must be kept away from children and pets. Lastly, change your vacuum bag regularly to ensure you're getting the larvae out of your home.
Extra Tip: Bay leaves are the best grain-moth repellent. Sprinkle bay leaves on shelves, or tape bay leaves inside of canisters or cereal boxes (they won't alter the flavour). Grain moths like warmth and moisture, so store grains in airtight containers and in a cool place. The only other material that works to deter grain moths is Bazooka Joe Bubble Gum!
QUESTION: While we were away from home, a hairball from our elderly cats was spilled on our brown jute rug. Our cat-sitter rubbed the rug clean leaving two noticeable light spots on the rug. Can we treat these spots by brushing on some brown fabric dye? Can you recommend a way to darken these spots? Look forward to hearing from you. Diane (Mitchell, Man.)
ANSWER: All carpet is dyed in the first place, therefore, it is definitely a technique that will work if done correctly, however, it is risky business. Colour-matching is a great challenge and for best results, consider hiring professional carpet-dying services that will help you refurbish your carpet for less than half the cost of replacing the carpet.
If you are determined to fix the carpet yourself, the first step is to find out what kind of textile your carpet is (you said jute), and whether or not your carpet is stain-resistant.
When purchasing carpet dye, consider how much dye mixture is required to cover the carpet you are refurbishing. Coverage must also be sufficient to allow the dye to bond evenly with carpet fibres. Make sure you are buying a carpet dye with a colourfast guarantee. Dyed carpets should not fade when cleaned. Also find out the drying time and setting time. Clean the carpet before beginning and follow all directions listed on the colour-dye kit. Test carpet dye on a swatch of carpet if you have one available, or on an inconspicuous area.
Extra Tip: If the stains are really small, you can try colouring the bleached areas with a brown permanent marker.
QUESTION -- What is your opinion of stainless steel kitchen countertops? Wyn (Amaranth, Man.)
ANSWER: Stainless steel counters are gaining popularity in everyday homes due to their durability, stain- and water-resistance, low maintenance and ease of cleaning. Also a hot plate or pan can be placed directly on the surface without worry of damage. Because it's easy to clean, it's great for preventing bacterial growth. If you have a stainless countertop installed, make sure the surface is at least 18-gauge and has eight to 10 per cent nickel in it. Another advantage is that stainless steel is neutral, which means that you can change your cabinets to almost any other colour or material and the counters will always match. If you plan your kitchen lighting scheme right, the reflective nature of the surface will increase the illumination and make the room sparkle.
However, like most things in life, there are drawbacks. Stainless is not cheap, even though it seems like a bare metal, it requires a lot of work to have it made and installed. Also, cutting directly on the surface will leave scratch marks.
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national bestsellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions, Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets and "Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives available online and in stores across Canada.
Tip of the Week:
Juicy Fruit Room Air Freshener Recipe: Dissolve 1 tsp. baking soda in 2 cups hot water; add 1 tsp. lemon juice. Pour the solution into a spray bottle and spray each room in the house.
Burn 100 per cent pure beeswax candles with 100 per cent cotton wicks. They are said to purify and clean the air while helping the room smell great.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming!
Check out my website! www.householdsolutions.org