Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Not clear on choosing windows? Read on
QUESTIONS: I read your column all the time, thanks for writing it.
Is it worth the extra cost to purchase triple-pane windows rather than double-pane windows? I am assuming that triple-pane windows would only add additional insulation value? I am asking this question on behalf of both my neighbour and I.
-- Darlene Frederickson, email
I am in the process of hiring a window company to purchase and install their windows.
My question to you is; what are all the options when it comes to looking at the space in between windows? Should they be air filled or argon filled? What are the differences between all the options? I looked at many sites and have contacted Manitoba Hydro and cannot determine what the best option for my home is.
-- Terri Bercier, email
ANSWER: Both of your questions pertain to a common question that homeowners face when embarking on one of the most frequent of renovations, window replacement. I would have thought there would be mountains of information on these subjects available to consumers, but your questions point out the difficulty in wading through all of it to get the straight goods. Hopefully, I can cut to the chase and provide you with simple answers.
The first question often asked of window salespeople and others involved with home renovation and construction is the benefits of triple-pane windows over dual pane. It has long been known and demonstrated the space between the sealed panes of glass in a modern window provides the true thermal benefits of a "sealed unit" style of window. It has also been known that if you add a second space, by adding a third pane to the sealed unit, the thermal protection is increased. There is no doubt this is true, but it does not tell the whole story when addressing window upgrades.
In recent years, much research has been devoted to heat and air loss in buildings and its relationship to energy conservation. While it is simple to increase the efficiency and thermal performance of the walls and attics of homes by adding greater thickness of insulation, there is one area of the building envelope that is still a challenge -- the doors and windows. Despite clever marketing programs about "powered" windows with high R-values, these areas will never be able to match the thermal protection of the surrounding walls in a properly insulated and air-sealed modern home. Research has also shown that while thermal insulation is important to achieve energy conservation, air loss is just as important. Stopping air leakage at windows and doors is more effective than adding several more layers of glass to the sealed unit part of the window assembly.
Because of this newer trend of preventing air loss by installing well sealed air/vapour barriers, acoustical sealants, and other less air permeable products, there has been less focus on the benefits of triple-pane windows versus dual pane. The focus has correctly been on improving the way the windows seal when closed, better window frames and providing proper insulation and air vapour seals around the windows. These components are much more important for energy conservation in a window than the glass itself. Having said that, unfortunately at the risk of muddying the waters even more, the glazing of the windows should also be taken into account to improve performance of new windows, but as a secondary concern to the issues already noted.
Triple-pane window performance is definitely superior to dual pane on conventional air-filled, uncoated sealed units. However, the additional costs may outweigh the benefits on older homes with poorly insulated exterior walls and large gaps between the framing and the windows. In these homes, the performance of newly installed dual-pane windows in stopping air loss will be such a vast improvement over old wooden or aluminum sliders that an additional pane of glass may be overkill. On newer homes, with better insulation and air/vapour barriers in the walls, upgrading to triple-pane windows may make a considerable difference in reducing condensation on the windows than they would in an older home with more air leakage.
The second question about installation of argon between the panes of glass is an important one that should also be addressed with the possibility of adding a low-E window coating, as well. Both of these features add significant performance to windows, but not by directly adding R-value, as some advertising claims. Inert gasses like argon are commonly pumped in between the panes of glass in a sealed unit to improve performance by changing the angle of refraction of light waves passing through the glass. This refraction slows down the rate of heat loss from the interior while preventing some of the warming of the interior of the building caused by sunlight. Low-E coatings further reduce these factors by reflecting back a portion of this energy and not allowing it to pass through the clear glass.
To answer both of your questions directly, both Low-E coatings and argon gas are very cost-effective additions to windows in relation to performance. This is largely due to the wide use of both, which allows manufacturers to offer these at very modest upcharges to untreated glass units. If these upgrades are offered for minimal extra cost, go for it, but if the manufacturer wants big money, look for an alternative company. Unfortunately, adding a third pane to the sealed unit normally adds significant extra cost, and may not be cost-effective for many older homes. Your budget will determine whether an upgrade to triple-pane windows is affordable. Keep in mind that proper air sealing of the window and frame will do more to improve the performance and comfort of your new windows than additional panes of glass in the sealed unit.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Keep olive oil in your cleaning cabinet, too
QUESTION: I have two problems that I cannot seem to solve. One is a dark green leather chair arm that is often leaned on and has lost some of its colour and is slightly worn. I would like to restore it if possible, I'm a big user of permanent markers to repair scratches, chips, and Whiteout to repair nicks on the woodwork, but I don't want to use any of these on a perfectly usable and still-acceptable appearing piece of furniture.
My other question has to do with a dark brown steel front door that I find impossible to clean without leaving lint, streaks. It is a painted surface that has been baked on, presumably, at time of manufacture. Thanks, Val (Gladstone, MB)
ANSWER: The colour of the leather furniture can be successfully restored with a topically applied leather finish that has been mixed to match your original colour. When done correctly, the leather will appear to be like new. You need to either contact a professional leather restorer or purchase a leather dye kit, which is a little more risky because colour matching needs to be perfect. Check out the yellow pages under the heading "Leather Goods Repairing". In the meantime, you may also want to shine the leather by buffing it with olive oil or cold cream and a soft cloth.
In terms of the painted door, why don't you once again reach for the olive oil? It does not have a tendency to attract lint, it does not tend to leave streaks and it is a product that many people have on hand. You can also try the following cleaner, which is great to use on windows and does not streak. RECIPE: In a 16-ounce spray bottle combine, 1 tbsp. rubbing alcohol, half cup ammonia (or vinegar), 1 tsp. Dawn dish soap and enough water to fill the bottle. Spray on and wipe with a micro fiber cloth or crumpled up newspaper. Do this on a cloudy day or in the morning.
QUESTION: Do you have a foolproof way for killing weeds? Is there any solution to killing the weeds but not the cedars? We have tried a few different suggestions from people, but no success. We have a good sized yard and many spots with landscaping mulch or bark or rocks and we constantly have weeds coming up especially the area next to our back fence (along the alley). We also have landscaping fabric in some of these spots and the weeds are poking through the fabric. We really don't want to spend our life weeding, I thought these landscaping materials were supposed to minimize or eliminate weeds? What are we doing wrong? Tracy (Carberry, MB)
ANSWER: In terms of weeds, constant upkeep is part of life and something that we cannot get away from all together. The secret? Attack early. Getting weeds out of the garden at the start of the season, when they're most vulnerable, is a smart strategy for two reasons: It keeps annual weeds from forming seed heads and it keeps perennial weeds from developing deeper roots. Remember, the root should be completely removed, even to its root depth. If the roots are 6 inches deep, make sure you dig the roots up from that depth as well. This can be accomplished by loosening the soil around the weed roots and slowly removing the weed back and forth from the soil. If the ground is too hard, try soaking it a little to ease the root removal process. Some people will even use hot-water from a kettle to poor on shallow rooted weeds (like spurge) to help loosen-up the soil or even kill the weeds on the spot!
Landscape fabric used must be high quality and overlap so that no weeds or seeds can sneak in between layers. Also, make sure that no weeds sit on top of the fabric when laying it down so that they don't plant themselves. To kill weeds spray 100 per cent vinegar onto weeds. Keep in mind that vinegar will kill all greenery that it touches. Garden stores now sell vinegar with a higher concentration of acetic acid which kills weeds faster than typical vinegar sold in grocery stores.
Make sure to bag and throw away your clippings when you dig up weeds. This helps prevent the seeds from spreading. Excellent fertilization is a good defensive step to take against weeds. Using the right type of fertilizer that possesses the best combination of nitrogen and other important compounds four times a year will go a long way in improving the health of your yard. But don't be surprised if some stubborn weeds still persist in growing; that's the time when other more aggressive steps must be taken to achieve effective weed control. Let's talk mulch; the particle size of the mulch will determine the depth of the application. Apply coarse-textured mulches, such as bark and wood chips, four inches deep for weed control. Apply fine-textured mulches, such as shredded leaves or dry grass clippings, about two inches deep. Keep all mulches several inches away from the stems of plants or the trunks of trees and shrubs to prevent disease.
QUESTION: What could one do to stop cats from scratching and pulling away pieces of rug? I've tried the cat posts, and various smells. For the dogs I use capsaicin (it is a strong chilli ingredient) diluted with water as it burns.
Also, I have a couple of good remedies that I can share with you from growing up in Israel. Best regards, Jenny, Winnipeg
ANSWER: I would love it if you shared tips from Israel! I can share them with others and everyone will benefit from your knowledge.
In terms of the scratching cats, with every cat comes its own unique personality: here are a few suggestions that might work for your furry friends. Purchase a spray at the pet store to deter scratching on the couch, one such spray is Aerosol Pheromone by Feliway. Also, keep a scratching post nearby and rub catnip onto it, cats need to scratch. Keep your cat's nails groomed and one other item that you may want to purchase are sticky strips that are applied to the rug. Also use a spray bottle and a firm no whenever they go near the couch. If the stores in your area do not carry tape for pets there are several ways to order it on-line. One website to visit is petplanet.co.uk and ask for a product called Sticky Paws. Since cats hate the feeling of stickiness on their paws, you may also want to consider applying double sided tape to certain areas. The biggest advantage to a product such as Sticky Paws is that it is made to be easily removed without leaving marks.
Just one other comment, be careful with capsaicin. While it does work well for some animals, it is sometimes too irritating for another animal to the point that it could put their health in danger.
I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming! Check out my website www.householdsolutions.org
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national best sellers, "Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions", "Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets" and "Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives" available on-line and in stores across Canada.
Renovation & Design
Your trees deserve an arborist with credentials
LOOKING for an arborist to work on your trees and shrubs? Here are some facts to consider.
Manitoba arborist regulations
Manitoba government regulations require all commercial, municipal and government arborists be licensed. Arborists must pass a course of study supervised by the University of Manitoba's Department of Agriculture as the first prerequisite to obtaining their Manitoba arborist licence. Application for the license must be accompanied with proof that the arborist has obtained at least $2 million general business liability insurance. Licences must be renewed each year. The administration of the arborist licence is the responsibility of the Department of Conservation.
Get three quotes for tree work
Homeowners often rely on arborist referrals from their friends or family. You can also look up a tree service company in the Yellow Pages directory. Obtain at least three quotations from companies if you are uncertain which one to choose. From my experience talking with property owners, very few talk to more than one arborist. There seems to be a reluctance to find the best bid from more than one arborist. Be sure to verify that the companies from which you are getting quotations have a current valid licence which is located on the arborist's Manitoba Arborist Identification Card. It is your right to ask to see that licence. It should show the current year's date beside the arborist licence number.
Write up a list of tree work you want done
Before you call an arborist, make a detailed list of all the work you want done. Be as specific as you can in your instructions. This same list must be shown to each of the arborists from which you are obtaining quotations. If a tree has to be removed be sure it is clearly marked on the trunk with coloured paint or secured flagging tape. Mention this in your instructions for work to be done. Here is a common scenario. You are looking for pruning work for a tree on your contracting out list, however an arborist says the tree should be removed. Be sure to ask all of the other arborists if they believe that tree needs to be removed before you agree to enter into the contract. Sound, healthy trees are often removed because people are reluctant to question the integrity or motives of an arborist.
Certified arborists with the International Society of Arboriculture
Most tree service firms do good pruning and removal work. Some are licensed to spray and fertilize trees. Not all companies have staff trained in understanding specific plant health care treatments related to certain pests and diseases. I would start with those firms that advertise their professional qualifications stating they have one or more certified International Society of Arboriculture (I.S.A.) arborists on staff. The ISA is a professional group that advocates the highest standards of training and state-of-the-art tree care for the international tree service community. The ISA requires member arborists to upgrade their education in tree care annually in order to keep their certified arborist designation. If you do not have references for any one particular tree service company you could talk to each of the companies displaying their certified ISA arborist designation in their advertisement about your problem.
There is a word of caution I must mention here. A company may be a member of the ISA but it might not employ any certified ISA arborists. Be sure that you are dealing with certified ISA arborists when someone comes out to inspect and quote on the work you want done to your trees.
Pesticide applicator's licence
If you are looking for a company to spray or fertilize your trees then there are different regulations that apply. Under Manitoba Agriculture's Pesticides and Fertilizers Control Act, all business applicators must have a current Pesticide Applicator's Licence. Again be sure you ask to see it and ensure it is current. Many tree service companies do all the services mentioned in this article.
If you are uncertain about the professional reputation of a company, you can also call the Better Business Bureau.
Michael Allen is a consulting urban forester and certified ISA arborist and owner of Viburnum Tree Experts. He makes house and garden visits to assess tree and shrub problems. He can be contacted by calling 831-6503 or by email at viburnumtrees@shaw.ca You can also mail questions to Michael Allen, c/o Newsroom, Winnipeg Free Press, 1355 Mountain Ave., Winnipeg, MB, R2X 3B6. His website is www.treeexperts.mb.ca
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: Apply 'rule of finger' to stone façade
QUESTION: I bought a stucco-clad house that was builder-built in the 1970s. It has a decorative Tyndall stone front around my main front window, which runs from the under the roof line to the ground, from the corner of the house to the front door. I have discovered a large crack on the side of the house that looks like the stone is separating from the front. What kind of contractor should be used to repair this and what type of experience should the contractor or stone specialist have in order to repair this problem. Also, what price range would be a reasonable cost? In other words, if the job is only a $500 job and if someone offers to do it for $100, I would like to know that there is something up with that. I really need an answer as I am dealing with a serious illness and if this is a major repair, I will need to deal with it sooner rather than later.
Patric Frena, email
ANSWER: One of the most common items I see during inspections on stucco homes with stone or brick veneer on the front is a crack between the two at the side walls. This crack typically occurs due to shrinkage and movement of two dissimilar siding materials. These will each expand and contract at different rates and a crack between the two is almost inevitable. In most cases this is not serious, but can be if the stone veneer is pulling away from the wall and not just subject to normal seasonal forces.
The first thing for you to determine is whether the crack is excessive in size, due to loose stones, or typical, due to normal shrinkage. A quick method for this evaluation may be to apply a common rule of thumb, or in this case finger, to measure the gap. If your small finger or index finger can easily fit into the fissure between the stone and stucco, there may be something to worry about. If the gap is 10 millimetres or less in width, it is doubtful that the stone is moving significantly. This should be an average measurement as the crack may be uneven in its length, due to small pieces of stucco or mortar that have fallen out or crumbled over time.
If the crack is substantially larger than the above guideline or any bowing or excessive cracking can be seen in the stone veneer, professional help may be required. Stone and brick veneers should be uniform and straight, with only minor mortar cracks visible. If horizontal cracks are seen at mortar joints that run more than the length of a few stones, there may be movement that requires repair. The masonry veneer façade is typically attached to the exterior sheathing of the house with small metal ties at various points, but these can come loose due to improper securing or excessive moisture and corrosion. The heavy stones should also be supported directly on the foundation or a metal angle iron bolted to the foundation. If there is damage to the foundation or the angle iron underneath the veneer is loose, then movement is the likely cause of the cracking.
If the crack is less than 10 centimetres in width and no major signs of movement are evident, filling the crack is the only required repair. This can often be accomplished by applying a large bead of flexible caulking, rated for exterior use, to the full length of the crack. This can be installed with only a caulking gun, ladder and minimal other tools. This type of repair should be in the minor cost range that you have noted. While minimal in cost, it is still quite important to do the repair to prevent moisture intrusion through the opening. Too much seepage can damage the sheathing or wall behind the veneer or cause more damage to the stucco and stone due expansion of the water as it freezes and thaws.
If the gap between the two siding materials fails the finger test, or excessive cracking is seen in the stone veneer, then it is time to call in the pros. This job should be evaluated by an experienced stone mason to determine the proper course of action. The repair may range from a minor re-pointing of deteriorated mortar to removal and reinstallation of loose stones. Cost will obviously depend on the severity of the damage and a reputable mason should only recommend what is necessary.
As I have already stated, most of the cracking that I see in exterior walls in the area you describe in your home is minor and can even be repaired by a handyman or homeowner.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Olive oil, cold cream good for dry leather
QUESTION: I am wondering if you would mind clarifying something in your books. The leather in my parents' sofa is starting to dry out. As such, they want to treat it with a moisturizer. One of your books suggests using olive oil to moisturize leather, and another one of your books suggests using cold cream. Which would be the best for what they need it for? If you use olive oil, wouldn't it leave a sticky residue and maybe even start smelling bad (rancid oil)? What is cold cream, and would it work for this application? Thanks in advance for your help with this!
ANSWER: Both olive oil and cold cream have had great results on leather. Just be sure to test both on an inconspicuous area first. Apply one or the other to a soft cloth and wipe on leather in a circular motion. Remove all excess. Leather is porous and therefore the grease will absorb into the fabric without sitting on top, leaving a smell or attracting dust. Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various scent agents, designed to smooth skin and remove makeup. You will find cold cream where face products are sold.
QUESTION: I am wondering if you have a remedy for cleaning tea stains off bone china cups and saucers. I don't want to use anything that will take the pattern or gold rim off of the cups. Thanks in advance.
Lois, Winnipeg
ANSWER: For really tough stains on china cups, use one of the following cleaning techniques: Place a denture tablet inside the cup and fill with hot water. Leave overnight. The stain should dissolve. Or wipe stains with whitening toothpaste. Or make a paste of baking soda (or washing soda) and water and scrub cups and saucers. Or put one teaspoon citric acid, oneteaspoon lemon juice and fill the remainder of the cup with hot water. Leave overnight. Note: Wear gloves when working with washing soda.
QUESTION: I washed and hung a white sweater on a painted hanger to dry. Unfortunately, I didn't notice that the hanger's paint was chipped in places. So now my white sweater has rust stains on the shoulders! Any suggestions for removing these stains? Thanks for your help. I find your column so interesting.
Marilyn, Winnipeg
ANSWER: One solution that I find very effective on fabric rust stains is pouring hydrogen peroxide (or lemon juice) onto the stain and sprinkling it with cream of tartar. Leave the item in the bright sun for a day and wash. Works very well. Or chop a few stalks of rhubarb with water and cook. Hold the stain in the boiling rhubarb water for a few seconds. Great results, and your pot will sparkle as well. Taken from Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions.
QUESTION: I have drugstore beetles in my kitchen cupboards containing cereals, pasta and rice. These items are all stored in 500 ml freezable food containers. I throw out contaminated food and wash the containers and shelves, but the beetles are back in no time. Any suggestions?
Shirley, Winnipeg
ANSWER: The simplest way to get rid of drugstore beetles is to locate the source of the infestation and quickly get rid of it. Use a flashlight or other light to examine all food storage areas and food products. Get rid of heavily infested foods by collecting them in heavy plastic bags or in sealed containers for garbage disposal.
When you purchase foods, check packaging dates to establish freshness. Stay away from broken and damaged items. Purchase rarely used foods in small quantities to prevent storage periods of one month or more, especially during warm months. Store foods in insect-proof containers -- glass, heavy plastic, or metal with screw-type lids -- or store in a refrigerator or freezer. Properly ventilate the storage area to discourage these moisture-loving pests.
Foods with questionable infestations can be heated in a shallow pan in the oven at 120 degrees F (48.9 C) for 1 hour or place in a deep freeze at 0 degrees F (-17.8 C) for 4 hours; or heat in a microwave oven for 5 minutes. Heat dried fruits or vegetables by placing them in a cheesecloth bag and dipping in boiling water for 10 seconds. After removing all food, food packages and dishes from the cupboard, shelves or storage area, use a strong suction vacuum cleaner with proper attachments to clean all spilled foods from crevices behind and under appliances and furniture. Pull out heavy appliances from the wall and scrub with soap and hot water. After shelves are dry, cover with clean, fresh paper or foil. It is not recommended to use insecticides around food, but do so if the infestation persists. Clear out the kitchen and put all food that may be affected into the freezer. Spray Raid or call a professional pest-control service to tackle the problem. If using a strong chemical, be sure to wash all shelves and walls before returning the food to the shelves.
QUESTION: Now, here's a situation you might not have heard of before. I wear rubber gloves for doing dishes. Over the years I have accumulated dozens of gloves for the right hand and thrown away dozens of gloves for the left hand. I'm left-handed and find it's that hand that gets the pokes and holes from knives and other sharp items while dishwashing. I've tried to think of how I can repair the small hole in the rubber glove, to no avail. Can't bring myself to discard the right-hand gloves! What ideas do you have to remedy this situation?
Joy, Narcisse
ANSWER: Although there is no effective way to fix torn rubber gloves, if you always wear out one rubber glove, start saving all the good gloves and by turning half of them inside out you will gain a few extra pairs. Or cut good fingertips off one pair of torn rubber gloves and put them into torn glove fingertips to reinforce them. Also, consider alternative uses for rubber gloves: Cut them into circles and they are great non-slip grippers on things such as a stuck jar lid. Or cut the fingers off a torn rubber glove and slip them over mop and broom handles. That way, when you lean them against the wall they don't slide or create marks on the wall. Cover chair feet with the fingers of rubber gloves to protect floors. Or cut strips on the round, both the hand part and fingers, and use as rubber bands. Cut off the index-finger piece from the torn rubber glove and you have an ideal sheath for your finger the next time you have to sort through a stack of papers. Love the question!
I enjoy your questions and tips. Keep them coming! Check out my website www.householdsolutions.org