Renovation & Design
Renovation & Design
ASK THE INSPECTOR: No weeping tile system? That's the pits
QUESTION: I am sitting here watching a brand-new home being backfilled without weeping tile. I live quite close to the Red River, about 500 yards away. It is a concrete foundation and they took the care to wrap the foundation with Delta Wrap. I'm not in the construction business, but I am pretty sure that even with the Delta Wrap you still need weeping tile. The soil is mainly made up of silt and clay here. All the homes in this area have a sump pit and sump pumps. My question is what will happen to the home's foundation if it is left like this?
-- Kyle Galbraith, e-mail
ANSWER: As I was reviewing questions for this week's column, your timely e-mail inquiry arrived and prompted a quick response, due to the shocking nature of your discovery. I would be very surprised if you are correct in your observations that no weeping tile were installed, but it wouldn't be beyond belief. I will offer possible worst-case scenarios for the new foundation if weeping tiles indeed are missing, while describing the function of this system in new home construction.
Modern subsoil drainage systems, commonly called weeping tiles, are critical components in new homes, particularly in the Red River Valley. Our wonderful southern Manitoba soil is primarily composed of expansive clay, which is among the worst conditions for foundation construction in North America because it can significantly expand and contract with changes in moisture levels.
This is compounded by our temperature extremes, which can range more than 70 degrees Celsius between summer and winter. This large range can cause even more expansion and shrinkage of the soil due to drying in the summer and frost heaving from frozen moisture over the winter.
Weeping-tile drainage systems in new homes are composed of long, corrugated plastic pipes installed near the bottom of the foundation and footings. These long pipes are perforated to collect excess ground water, which is channeled to non-perforated sections of similar pipe underneath the concrete floor slab in the basement or in the crawlspace. These interior sections are sloped downward toward a sump pit, where they terminate. The interior piping typically runs through the footings and connects to the exterior drainage tiles, which run around the entire perimeter of the foundation.
The exterior pipes are often covered with a fabric "sock" that prevents blockage with fine particles from the soil. Drainage stone may also be placed over the weeping tile for a portion of the backfill to help collection of soil moisture. Once complete, backfilling is typically done by replacing a portion of the clay soil that has been excavated for the foundation, as you have observed.
If everything is done correctly, the weeping tile will collect excessive groundwater that may collect around the foundation after heavy rains and the spring thaw. This water will enter the sump pit, where it will be pumped back out near the top of the foundation and distributed away from the house through an extension hose attached to the sump discharge piping.
This system is very important because it will prevent oversaturation of the soil adjacent to the foundation. If this soil remains too wet, it can expand significantly and push excessively on the foundation. In the worst cases, this hydrostatic pressure can cause the foundation to crack and bow inward. In minor cases, it can cause the excess moisture to enter the foundation through small fissures or openings, creating a damp basement.
You are correct that the membrane applied to the exterior of the foundation may prevent seepage due to hydrostatic pressure, but it will not prevent cracking and physical damage to the foundation from expansive clay. Only a properly installed weeping-tile and sump-pump system will ensure that this is not likely to occur. The inclusion of this system is required on full-height foundations, but may not be installed on short, grade-beam-style foundations like those found on many attached garages.
Considering that the dimpled membrane you have seen installed is considered an upgrade over traditional bitumen damp-proofing methods, I would be very surprised if weeping-tile installation was missed. It's possible that the exterior drainage-tile system was installed and covered with stone or a small amount of soil and was not visible to you prior to backfilling. I would watch to see if the interior sections of piping and the sump pit are installed in the next few days or weeks in the basement, which may answer your question.
If you are still suspicious, you could inquire with the building officials or inspection division responsible in your municipality. They should be able to verify that a foundation and drainage-tile inspection was completed before backfilling was allowed. If this was not done, the only way to remedy the situation is to dig up the newly installed fill and install the proper drainage tile piping, as required.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his website at www.trainedeye.ca.
trainedeye@iname.com
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: Sediment, funny smell... it all comes out in the wash
QUESTION: Can you help me with a problem? When my dishwasher has gone through its cycle, sediment appears on the glasses, inside cups and the back of saucers. It looks like sand, but isn't gritty. It only shows up in the upper tray. I've run an empty dishwasher with citric acid, then I tried a bowl of vinegar at the bottom of the dishwasher but nothing seems to help. Grace, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Your first step is to rinse your dishes well before loading them and make sure that nothing is obstructing the spray arms from turning. Clean the filter and check the water temperature. Test the temperature by running hot water in your kitchen sink; gauge the water with a kitchen thermometer. The temperature of your hot water must range between (60C) 140F and (70C) 160F or your dirty dishes will probably still be dirty after running the dishwasher. If you discover the temperature of your hot water is less than (60C) 140F, turn up the temperature accordingly.
Next, make sure that your filter is clean, not clogged; occasionally the spray arms can get clogged with debris. This can be caused by food or even hard-water deposits. Clogged spray arms prevent water and detergent from getting to the dishes to clean them. If you notice a clog, use a pipe cleaner, straight pin or toothpick to clean the holes, or just replace the spray arm. Also, check the spray arm and pump cover for splits or leaks.
The water-inlet valve is another possibility. This valve is connected to the main water line from the house. If the dishwasher can't get enough water, it can't wash the dishes. If it loses power, it cannot turn itself off. Check for sediment build-up at the valve. Sometimes when a water-inlet valve is defective, you might hear a sound like a thump or bang.
You can test your water pressure using a pressure gauge. You would install this gauge to one water line in the house, and make sure no other water is flowing anywhere else in the home. Pressure over 60 psi should be regulated by a pressure reducing valve. If the water-inlet valve is faulty, replace it. Check pump re-circulation; make sure the dishwasher sounds like it is spraying the water around with enough pressure. Make sure the dishwasher is draining after each cycle. There should only be a little water in the bottom of the tub.
During the drain cycle, the drain valve opens to allow the dirty water out. When the drain cycle is over, this valve is supposed to remain closed to prevent water from leaving the dishwasher until the next drain cycle. If any debris plugs the valve, it will not close or seal properly. If it is not sealed, water will drain out while the unit is washing the dishes. If this is happening, you will hear water running in the drain pipes from the dishwasher. This is a sign that you need to clear the obstruction or replace the drain valve.
A faulty pressure switch can sometimes leave dirty water in the unit, or not let the unit fill enough. If you notice too much water leftover in the machine after a cycle, the switch may be defective. Sometimes the float itself can become gummed up with mineral and food deposits and stick in the float tube. It needs to be swapped out. The dishes must be loaded properly, not overloaded.
Lastly, switch detergents. Some liquid-gels will bubble and a pump cannot pump bubbles. Studies show that powdered detergents are often more effective than liquid, but experiment by trying both.
QUESTION: In a recent column, there was a lady that had a question regarding the smell in her front-loading washing machine. We leave the door to the machine open as well as the drawer for the detergent, fabric softener and bleach, and we don't seem to have a problem. We also use a liquid fabric softener (the environmentally friendly kind). If we were to run one cup of vinegar through the machine occasionally, which slot would we put it in?
By the way, we don't use dryer sheets because we read somewhere that they aren't good. If we don't use dryer sheets and shouldn't use liquid fabric softener, what other suggestions can you provide so that we don't get static cling? Thank-you, Marlene, Winnipeg
ANSWER: Adding a half-cup of vinegar to the rinse cycle of your washing machine saves you from buying a separate laundry softener. Add vinegar to the fabric-softener compartment of your washing machine. Vinegar works naturally to soften your laundry, reduce static cling and has the added benefit of breaking down laundry detergent effectively. This added benefit means fewer detergent-sensitive allergies for families that struggle with sensitive skin. Don't be put off by the fragrance of vinegar. The odour disappears when the fabric dries.
Come and see me at the Winnipeg Autumn Home Show, September 25 & 26 at the Winnipeg Convention Centre.
Reena Nerbas's website is www.householdsolutions.ogrg. Contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, MB, R0A0C0
Renovation & Design
SOLUTIONS: No butts in the garbage grinder, please
QUESTION: I work at a hotel in the U.S. and read your column in the Winnipeg Free Press every week. My question: Can cigarette butts be put into my garbage disposal? Luke (Grand Forks, N.D.)
ANSWER: No! Avoid putting the following into your garbage disposal: Cigarette butts, shellfish, unpopped popcorn kernels, hard bones, plants, hair, grease, paper and large fruit peelings.
If you find that your disposal smells, one solution is to put the garbage in it (as usual) and grind it up while running water. Next secure the plug and fill the sink with water. As the water is filling, add a generous squirt of liquid dish soap. Fill the sink at least half full with water. Remove the stopper from the sink and quickly turn the disposer back on. If you could see the inside of your disposal, you would see a wild vortex of action.
QUESTION: Do you have a solution to clean the surface of a newer ceramic stovetop? I have tried vinegar. Stephen (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: There are ceramic stovetop cleaners available on the market, but the easiest way to clean your stovetop is with a little tool sold at most places where ceramic tops are sold. This little tool is shaped like a razor blade and takes off stains left from cooking. Oddly enough the blade does not damage the stove.
QUESTION: Please provide me with a healthy alternative to commercial furniture polish. Alison (Winnipeg)
ANSWER: I like to refer to this wonderful oak-beautifying recipe as Annie Oakley Wood Polish: In a pot boil 1 quart beer, 1 tbsp. sugar, 2 tbsp. beeswax. Cool and wipe mixture on oak, allow to dry, polish with a soft cloth.
Fantastic Feedback from Readers:
Dear Reena,
Your column is a wealth of information and I have a hint to add. Paintbrushes are not just for painting! I dampen them with soap and water and use them for dusting crevices, grill areas and around doorknobs. I choose soft or firm brushes depending on the job to be done. Works well! Mary, (Winnipeg)
Great Tips of the Week:
HEY HONEY, GOT A SPLINTER? Honey naturally draws out splinters. Smear a layer of honey on the area and cover it with a band-aid just before bed. By morning the splinter should be closer to the surface of the skin making extraction a piece of cake.
YUMMY IN YOUR TUMMY SUMMER FUN ICE CREAM RECIPE:
Add the following ingredients to a pint-size Ziploc freezer bag and zip shut: half a cup whipping cream, 1 tbsp. sugar, and one quarter tsp. vanilla (you can try other flavours). Place that bag in a larger (quart-size or bigger) Ziploc bag. Add ice to fill the big bag halfway, plus 6 tablespoons salt (course or kosher). Zip that one shut. Shake, turn, toss and mix the bag. In about 5 or 10 minutes, you will have cold hands and yummy ice cream!
Note: Don't try to double this, as it doesn't seem to work. (Also, be sure you get all of the salt off of the small bag before you open it.)
Decorate with chocolate syrup, sprinkles or leave plain and enjoy!
Reena Nerbas is the author of the national best sellers, "Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions", "Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets" and "Household Solutions 3 with Green Alternatives" available on-line and in stores across Canada. Her website is www.householdsolutions.ogrg. Contact her at Box 429, Blumenort, MB, R0A0C0