Renovation & Design

Renovation & Design

Icy basement walls common in new homes

QUESTION -- We moved into our brand new house in October 2006. The basement is not finished, just insulated and has a vapour barrier. Last year, around this time, I noticed small water leaks, in three locations, on my basement floor coming from under the vapour barrier.

You cannot believe my surprise and shock when I opened the vapour barrier and removed the insulation on those leaking locations in my basement. My basement walls were covered in a fairly thick layer of ice and the walls were really wet.

I called the builder, New Home Warranty people and one home inspector in Winnipeg. All three gave me the same answer -- that it is normal in new homes and common in Winnipeg during extremely cold days. I just cannot accept such an explanation. I am very disappointed knowing that we paid over $300,000 for the house and that ice is going to be part of the interior of the house.

I am considering bringing in a contractor and spray-foaming the basement with three-inch-thick foam insulation at a cost of approximately three dollars per square foot. I am not sure if that will help at all. I am also thinking about digging out all the dirt outside my basement, putting a Delta Wrap and then insulating with Styrofoam. That will be very expensive work and the second concern is that my new home warranty might be void if anything goes wrong with my basement in the future. I am also not sure how effective that might be.

I hope you can understand my frustration, especially after the New Home Warranty person told me that he has received hundreds of similar questions in the last month from Winnipeggers. He also told me the building code should be changed to include insulating basements with the Styrofoam from the outside so this problem is remedied. Why do builders still build houses without that type of insulation if this ice problem happens to homeowners all the time?

Your professional advice will be greatly appreciated.

-- Jasmin Ismailovic, e-mail

ANSWER -- It seems to me that this winter I have answered more inquiries than normal regarding newer homes and basement issues. While attempting to maintain a balanced approach to the topics reviewed, there appears to be increasing concerns with these issues. This is particularly true with indoor air quality problems and your question also is in this general area. I have inspected several homes this winter with problems very similar to yours so I thought it timely to review this issue as we prepare for the annual spring thaw.

While it may be very difficult for you to accept, I strongly agree with those individuals you have approached who told you that frost buildup behind insulated basement walls is a very common situation in new homes. I also agree with the New Home Warranty representative that it is a problem with basement insulation methods in new homes in Winnipeg. While I concur with these assessments, it doesn't mean that I agree the problem is necessary or unavoidable. With the risk of offending my friends in the building officials department at city hall, the problem is primarily caused by foundation insulation requirements on new homes in this area.

Because of the current desire to make our homes as energy-efficient as possible, especially with newly built homes, we have created a dilemma with moisture control in the homes. With new houses, these problems are unique due to the nature of the building materials used to construct the dwelling. Most of the components of our wood-frame homes have fairly high moisture contents when installed. This includes not only the wood framing & sheathing materials, but also the concrete in the foundation and basement floor slab as well as the drywall, taping compounds and paint used to finish the inside of the home. Some of this moisture is easily released into the air in the home as materials like paint and drywall compounds dry, but other sources may be more slowly released as the material ages. Concrete is in the latter category and it will typically release moisture gradually, as it cures, for the first couple of years after installation.

Some of the moisture from the foundation curing process will be released to the exterior of the home, above grade, in the warmer months. Unfortunately, this expiration is limited during the cold winter months, when the ground is hard as a rock and the concrete above grade is well below the freezing point. The only area left for the moisture to escape to, at this time of year, is the heated indoor environment -- the basement. If the interior of the foundation is left uncovered, there may be some minor moisture issues, but these are not normally problematic. When we cover this new concrete with highly air-permeable fibreglass insulation and then a plastic air-vapour barrier, we are trapping this water vapour in the insulated wall cavity. Also, there may be some additional moisture inside this wall cavity from the drying of wood framing around the insulation. When the temperature drops low enough outside, this moisture will freeze and change to the ice and frost that you are seeing.

While I have not provided the complete explanation for your problem, the solution to your frost buildup is to remove the polyethylene sheathing and insulation from the entire interior foundation. The foundation concrete should be left uncovered for a minimum of one full year following installation, with frequent window ventilation of the basement in the moderate seasons, before re-insulating. Use of extruded polystyrene or blown-in foam will significantly reduce the chances of the problem reoccurring but will be more costly. Excavation and insulation on the exterior is not a practical solution, but I agree that it may be a superior option for new homes and a practice that will become more common in the future.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his new website at www.trainedeye.ca.

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz - Ask the Inspector
March 2

Renovation & Design

What a drag

DEAR Debbie -- We are moving into a new house and the walls will be stark white flat paint and the woodwork semigloss white paint. I hope to paint the walls in earth tones (soft clays and greens). Is there any way to stain or glaze over all the white trim and doors to remove the "new" look of the house? Thank you.

-- Carole

DEAR Carole -- It sounds like you want to create a warmer, more lived-in atmosphere in your new home. You will experience an instant mood change by painting the walls as you are planning to do, and once this is done, the white trim might look just fine. However, there is a technique called dragging or strie, that is well-suited to baseboards, trim and doors. A dry brush is pulled through a coloured glaze, revealing the base coat in fine lines. First check to see if the builders used oil-based or water-based paint as you can't apply water-based over oil. Mix a glaze with the same type of paint. (Water-based, coloured glaze recipe: two parts latex paint, two parts water-based glazing liquid, one part water.) Apply the coloured glaze in three-foot lengths. Starting at one end, pull a long-bristled paintbrush straight through the wet glaze. Repeat several times until you get the desired striated effect. Clean the dragging brush on a rag and repeat on the next section. For durability, apply a coat of varnish over woodwork and trim.

Dragging is easiest done over a semigloss base coat, as you need a slippery surface for the technique. If you are working on a door frame, mask off the angle where the side and the top frames meet. Drag the adjoining area when the first dragged section is dry. This will give you a clean angle.

DEAR Debbie -- I have noticed on all the design television shows that the baseboards are being painted a colour, even with a very strong wall colour. I have strong red on the main floor, and the hall and upstairs rooms are basket-weave yellow. What do you suggest I paint the baseboards, and where do I start and stop?

-- Mavis

DEAR Mavis -- Generally I am an advocate of white trim. It always makes a room feel fresh and is a unifying factor throughout the home. If baseboards are small and uninteresting, you can continue the wall colour to the floor so that they blend in. If the baseboards are higher, four inches or more, you may choose to highlight this architectural feature. Traditionally, these are either stained wood or painted white or off-white. Alternately, paint the baseboards a darker, richer tone of the wall colour.

Note: You can create height and interest in existing baseboards by adding moulding. Nail the new trim about one inch above what's there, then paint the entire section including the space one colour so that it will appear to be one solid piece. Another simple and inexpensive alternative is to tape off one or two thin stripes above the baseboard over the wall colour you have chosen. Paint the stripes and baseboard white.

Debbie Travis' House to Home column is produced by Debbie Travis and Barbara Dingle. Please e-mail your questions to house2home@debbietravis.com

Debbie Travis - House to Home
March 2

Renovation & Design

Put away the ni-cads, get out the Li-ion battery

SOMETIMES cordless tools make me angry. A little job comes up around the house, you dig out a drill you haven't used in months, then pull the trigger. Nothing happens. Or nearly nothing. The blasted battery's lifeless.

Even though you put the tool away fully charged, you've got to plug it in for at least 30 minutes before you can get anything done, and traditional nickel cadmium (nicad) batteries are to blame. They discharge on the shelf with infuriating speed, which is one reason I was happy to see lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries making it into cordless tools, beginning back in January 2005.

They hold a charge for more than a year, though there was always a problem: Li-ion has also been too expensive for general consumer tools, at least until recently.

I've been waiting to see which power tool company would be the first to offer Li-ion technology in reasonably-priced household models, and the contest is over. The winner is Black & Decker, though other manufacturers are quickly following suit.

The Black & Decker SC1400-CA was the first consumer-duty drill I spotted with a Li-ion battery. It's a 14.4-volt unit that weighs less than 1.3 kilograms, and I was especially eager to try this model when I discovered it because of what I know about typical homeowner tool use.

The average person isn't into big renovations and serious building. They don't need a drill for that sort of work. Instead, all these folks require is a lightweight tool that runs whenever they pick it up. The SC1400-CA delivers on this count, plus a few more ways.

Something called "overwrap" is one example. It's a soft, rubber-like, high-friction material moulded into the hand-grip areas of a growing number of power tools. Manufacturers started using it about 10 years ago, and while overwrap was originally found only on high-end, professional-grade tools, the SC1400-CA is one of a growing group of exceptions. It has lots of strategically placed overwrap, exactly where you want it. That's one reason I found this tool particularly comfortable to hold.

If you're planning to build a deck, equip a home workshop or complete home renovations, a tool like the SC1400-CA isn't the first drill you should buy. You'll find one of the many 18-volt models with a pair of batteries and a 30-minute charger does a better job. But even if you already keep one of these in the garage, there's a case to be made for having a simple, lightweight Li-ion drill handy in the den or kitchen drawer. Half the battle of getting pesky, little jobs done around the house is having tools at hand and ready to go.

Ryobi is another tool company that has brought lithium-ion batteries to the consumer market, and they've done it while staying true to their previous technology. Their One+ 18-volt lithium-ion batteries and tools are interchangeable with older style, nicad One+ tools and chargers. Ryobi's new batteries run about twice as long as old ones, and weigh 20 per cent less.

Regardless of who makes the tools, Li-ion batteries are much friendlier to the planet than traditional nickel cadmium (nicad) batteries. Freedom from cadmium is the reason why. This is a highly persistent environmental toxin with no known antidote, and it's why old nicad batteries need to be disposed of with such care. Some jurisdictions have even outlawed new nicad electronics -- another reason why we'll see more lithium-ion tools in the future.

There are cheaper drills than the current lineup of consumer-grade, lithium-ion models, and that's probably going to fool some inexperienced tool buyers into buying yesterday's technology. What's less obvious is that the money saved up-front always gets paid back later in frustration, wasted time and a certain amount of regret. At least with Li-ion batteries on your side, you've got a good chance of having the drill work when you need it.

Steve Maxwell is technical editor of Canadian Home Workshop magazine. Send homebuilding and renovation questions to www.stevemaxwell.ca.

--Canwest News Service

Steve Maxwell
March 2

Renovation & Design

Bathroom fan the likely cause of frost on soffit

QUESTION -- We own a two-storey, 35-year-old home. In a recent upgrade we had aluminum siding, fascia and soffits installed. A possible problem may have developed in the soffit. This year we are noticing frost collecting on the soffit outside of a northeast-facing bedroom on the second floor. The frost is so extensive that it sometimes hangs in strands, and it collects in a vertical line on the window. This bedroom is located next to the main washroom on the second level. A high-powered fan vents the washroom.

Our kitchen is located on the main floor below the washroom. In the kitchen a stove, with a microwave positioned above it, is vented with a fan. Is the frost that collects on the soffit an indication of a venting problem? Is this possibly from the washroom, or the kitchen fan?

--Rita Toews, e-mail

ANSWER -- Upgrades to the exterior components of a home may appear to be primarily for esthetic reasons, but can also have effects on performance of the home, as you have experienced. I think the cause and solution to your problem should be very straightforward, but I will explore other possibilities, should the simple answer not be correct.

Installation of new manufactured siding and soffits can be a major improvement to the exterior of a home, especially if old wood siding and soffits are badly deteriorated or rotten. Caution must be taken to adequately assess the function of these old systems, prior to installation of the new material. Too often, contractors who specialize in these exterior components are not well versed in building science, and may cover up existing problems or mistakenly create new ones. Many types of old wood siding are designed to drain excess moisture that may get behind the siding due to wind-driven rain and melted snow. Also, this material may be quite "breathable" when compared to vinyl or metal siding. The original wall system was designed with this component in place and altering this with new coverings may prevent moisture from properly evaporating from this area.

If too much moisture is now being trapped behind the new siding, especially if it is insulated with a foam backer, it may be attempting to escape the wall and finding the perforated soffits as the only location for escape. Once out of the soffits, it may be freezing, creating the frost and ice you describe. While a possibility, I don't believe that this is the most likely source of the frozen moisture. Your question about the location of the kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans may yield a more realistic explanation.

Kitchen range hood and microwave exhaust fans often contain powerful motors that are required to blow heavy kitchen smoke and steam to the exterior. If the vent hood for this component is on the exterior wall below the soffit area, it could cause some frost on the window and soffit as the warm, moist air cools in its upward travels. Again, this is not normally responsible for this issue in a two-storey home, as the exhaust should dissipate or blow away before it hits these areas. The only other possibility of this creating the problems seen is if there is an opening, somewhere, in the connection between the vent hood and the ducting. This may have occurred if the hood was removed during the new siding installation and improperly reconnected. In that case, the steam may be escaping prematurely and getting trapped behind the new siding and creating the problem described in the first scenario, above.

The other possibility, which is the most likely, is that there is a problem with the upper bathroom exhaust fan system. In many homes your age the bathroom exhaust fans were vented out through a small metal register in the wooden soffits. This would have been easily visible on the old soffits, as these registers typically rust extensively from the bathroom moisture. The location of this final exit point for the bathroom fan was never a good idea, but the usual result was rotting of the old plywood soffits as the steam condensed quickly upon hitting the cold air in the soffits. If the installers of the upgraded metal soffits inadvertently covered up this register, without extending it through to the exterior, the trapped moisture is now showing up as frost and ice.

If the upper bathroom exhaust fan is not venting through the soffits, and a roof-mounted vent hood is seen above this area, there may be another answer for the frost. Many older bathroom exhaust fan ducts were poorly sealed and insulated inside the attic above. If the metal duct has rusted or become disconnected, the moisture from the exhaust fan will improperly escape into the attic. If this problem occurs near the shallow soffit area, condensation and heavy frost will develop on the underside of the roof sheathing. When this melts, on warm winter days, it will drip into the soffits, creating the ice you have seen.

With the cause of your problem almost certainly due to either of the last two possibilities identified with the bathroom exhaust-fan duct system, a trip into the attic is now warranted. Fortunately, the solution to either of these causes will be the same. If the existing ducting is leading toward the soffits, it should be immediately disconnected and rerouted upward to a new roof vent hood. Otherwise, ducts heading straight upward toward an old roof vent hood may be tested for defects by operating the fan while looking for leakage, with a flashlight, through the attic access hatch. Either way, installation of a new, roof-mounted vent hood and properly insulated ducting will stop the moisture from entering the soffit area.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his new website at www.trainedeye.ca.

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz - Ask the Inspector
February 24

Renovation & Design

Personal decor options brighten your space

LOVING where you live is easy when you make personalized design choices. The following list will give you ideas of simple decorating tricks that will create a big difference in your home.

1. Begin by choosing decorative fabrics for your home. Take a look at your wardrobe because people tend to wear colours they love. Look at how the colours in prints and plaids co-ordinate, contrast, and play off each other. If you find a colour, or combination of colours, that you like, wear that particular outfit when you shop for fabrics or meet with your decorator. Tip: In terms of flow, pull one colour throughout your home. Mix that colour with other tones and patterns.

2. Make a pair of old curtains look new by cutting off the curtain heading and hems and using panels to create a smaller, pocket curtain style.

3. Red may not be your favourite colour but, consider including red as an accent colour in your home i.e. candles, books, area rug. Why? Red draws attention away from other things in the room that you may not necessarily want noticed (i.e. dirty windows, peeling wallpaper, or a teenager that just won't get off the couch).

4. Liven up a small bathroom by decorating with stripes, either wallpaper or paint. This decorating trick gives the illusion of height, width and drama.

5. When dividing areas of a wall such as a chair rail, select the darkest colours for the bottom portion. This will help ground the scheme and not leave it floating.

6. Company is on the way, no time to redecorate! Purchase a bunch of tulips and display them in a wide-necked shallow container. Tip: The best way to keep tulips from drooping is to cut the stems short and bunch them together tightly.

7. Beautify a room by draping a table with an Indian sari; inexpensive and already hemmed. Finish the table with a stack of gilded picture frames and a vase of flowers in the centre.

8. If your home is stuck in the '80s, think lighting. Purchase and install updated lighting fixtures. Next, rearrange the furniture. You won't believe the difference!

9. Hide nicks or chips on old photo frames by gluing little trinkets over the damaged areas to hide them. For example, frame a photo of a golfer and decorate the frame with a tiny golf club or plastic tees.

10. When hanging picture frames, use rubber bumpers on the back of each picture. Not only will this help protect your wall but you won't have to constantly straighten the picture.

11. Tired of your kitchen cupboards? Painting is the least expensive option for redecorating your kitchen cabinets and it will give the room new life. With the right preparation, this job can be completed over a long weekend.

12. Save old window shutters and use them to organize. Clean, paint and either mount shutters to a wall or, the back of your bathroom door for holding magazines.

13. During the '60s and early '70s, bead curtains were popular. Well, like everything else in fashion, what goes around comes around and bead curtains are really making a big comeback. They are presently more intricate and are being used in a variety of ways to spruce up a tired room, a child's room or an apartment.

14. Decorate bookshelves sparingly. These are beautiful areas to display objects and books. However, they are also giant dust magnets. Reduce the number of items on bookshelves to only a few per shelf. This makes dusting easier and less time-consuming than shelves lined with lots of small knick-knacks. Better still, have glass doors installed over the shelves so that items inside don't become dusty as quickly.

15. Before you paint, here are a few tricks of the trade: Trick 1: To paint iron railings, use a car mitten. Put paint on mitten, take off surplus then grip railing with mitt and run hand up and down railing. Easy, quick and much less tedious than using a brush. Trick 2: If you have to paint pipes that are fixed to a wall, cut out a piece of cardboard, place this behind the pipes to be painted and then paint as usual. This will prevent any paint from getting onto the wall. Trick 3: When cleaning paint off mouldings, use a pumice stone soaked in detergent and water to gently rub along the moulding.

Solutions is compiled from various sources: hgtv.com, house-decorating-ideas.com, interiordezine.com, umpdesigns.com, thebluefish.com, asktooltalk.com, housekeepingchannel.com, hintsandthings.com. Thanks to all who sent in tips and tricks! Similar information may be found elsewhere.

Solutions Sleuth Reena Nerbas is a home economist and speaks professionally on the topic of household challenges; she is also the author of two national bestsellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions and Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets. She can be heard on radio programs across Canada and seen on the CBC TV show Living Winnipeg.

Visit me online at: www.householdsolutions.org

Reena Nerbas - Solutions
February 24

Renovation & Design

Going colour crazy?

IN the world of colour, two is company but three is a 'wow' if you can pull it off. I know, I know, choosing one wall colour is difficult enough, let alone three, but being adventurous with colour is part of the fun of creating a great space.

Paint manufacturers, like PARA Paints, are always working on ways to help consumers achieve success with wall colour. Recently, I received a press release from PARA Paints about a new tool to help consumers achieve a successful tri-colour look.

The folks at PARA say achieving a tri-colour look with any décor is simple. The rule of thumb is to select a primary hue -- or main wall colour -- which should take up about 70 per cent of colour in your room. Next, choose two supporting hues to complement the primary colour. Use one of those hues as your secondary colour -- for trim or an individual wall -- covering about 25 per cent of colour in your room. The final colour should be applied on accents, window sills or doors to highlight the remaining five per cent.

To help consumers select the most suitable three colours for their décor, PARA Paints has introduced a handy colour selection tool with the launch of its new website at www.para.com. Visitors to the site can simply click on their favourite primary colour and PARA automatically suggests two supporting colours which best suit that choice.

I'm all for free advice, especially when it can save you time and money so I thought I'd pass this information along. The more you play with colour, the better at it you become.

Popular three-colour combinations for 2008 include:

* Midnight blue supported by off-white and turquoise, such as PARA Paints' Blue Suede Shoes (P1910-5), Rice Paper (P2225-4) and Barbizon Blue (P1603-3);

* Steel blue highlighted with gold and cream, such as PARA Paints' Flagstone (P2264-2), Robertson House Gold Tint 3 (P2060-2) and Almost Ivory (P1830-4);

* Rich red complemented by cream and deep orange, such as PARA Paints' Elderberry (P2038-8-5), Wild Phlox (P2047-4) and Copper Nugget (P2376-3);

* Soft gray accented by deep red and brown-red, such as PARA Paints' Greyed Pearl (P2208-4), Blaze of Red (P329-8) and Rich Russet (P392-8).

There are other paint manufacturers whose websites have handy tools to help you in your desire for a colourful décor. While the tools aren't perfect, they do give you a fair idea of how a room might look with any chosen colour from their palette. Other tools like paint calculators will help you determine how much paint you'll need for your project. There are also tips on how to prep the work area and how to paint properly -- very basic stuff but still worth noting. Check out ICI paints which manufactures paints like Glidden, CIL and Color You World, each brand having its own website and tools.

Benjamin Moore has a website tool that has several rooms to choose from which you can 'paint' on line. The Personal Colour Viewer tool is a great way to play with wall and ceiling colour. There are a variety of different rooms to choose from so you're bound to find one similar to a room in your home. You can then paint the walls, ceiling and trim to find the exact combination you desire. With any of these online programs, you want to choose a room that is closest to the room you'll be painting and make note of the furniture in the virtual rooms. Often, the furniture will be white, which will make most any wall colour pop. If your furniture is dark, however, the outcome might not be as positive. Just keep these things in mind when you're playing with colour.

Designer paints

I'm not one who is hung up on designer labels but I did recently use Debbie Travis paint for a small project and found it to be of great quality. Her paint is available at Canadian Tire and the colour choices are very up-to-date and fresh. I found the prices to be quite reasonable considering it's a designer paint. Her website debbietravis.canadiantire.ca has one of the best design tools I've found so far. Simply click on a room and your choice of wall colour and it will paint the room and give you a great visual of your colour choices. This program had the most realistic looking colour of any that I tried. I also love the fact that she is a Canadian talent. Her bathroom accessory line (also at Canadian Tire) is a big hit with consumers as well. I like the fact that you can buy small pots of Debbie Travis paint to do a test area before you make your final colour decision.

Designer Ralph Lauren has his own paint brand that, while pricey, can be used to create some wonderful finishes. With lines of colour with names like Urban Loft and thoroughbred you get a sense of the high end tastes of this designer. The Create Your Own tool on the website www.ralphlaurenhome.com allows you to play with his wall colours in several different preset rooms. It also gives you a great visual of choices of wall colour. This is a good place to play with colour before you actually take the plunge. You can order small test samples of paint online to try the colour out before you take the plunge with the final paint choice. Ralph Lauren paints are available at Home Depot.

I spent a lot of time on the Internet looking into these sites and at how helpful they can be. It's worth an afternoon if you're having trouble choosing wall colour. You'll get inspired to try something more daring if you can see it in a virtual room. I like the fact that some sites allow you to put colour on the ceiling. This option allows you to ponder a more beautiful and exciting outcome.

coliver@3web.net

Connie Oliver - Room For Change
February 24

Renovation & Design

Home's bad smell likely moisture related

QUESTION -- We have a two-year-old house on a concrete foundation with a crawl space. Our problem is a persistent and worsening bad smell, somewhere between musty and dead animal, which is at its worst during the winter when the windows and doors are seldom opened.

I have researched the problem and most sources say that moulds that thrive on moisture are a likely cause. Although our crawl space had some moderate moisture problems during the wet summer of 2005, it dried quickly and has been dry since then. In fact, it is very dry and quite dusty now. The smell was not evident during the moisture problem, but now seems to be a little stronger in the crawl space than the rest of the house.

I am including some details that might be helpful. The foundation is concrete with interior rigid foam insulation. We have HRV ventilation and an electric forced-air furnace. The crawl space floor has a vapour barrier with gravel under and sand on top. The sump is dry.

Any advice you have would be much appreciated.

-- Terry Dann, Gimli

ANSWER -- I agree with some of the results of your research in that the smell is likely moisture related. However, I would not necessarily jump to the conclusion that mould is what you smell, but that is a strong possibility. I also agree that the source of the smell is likely related to the crawl space, or subsoil components, but I will also offer other possibilities to explore.

It is true that when we smell a damp, musty odour in low-lying areas in our home the source is often mould. Unfortunately, the presence of moulds in our homes has been a reality forever but has become a bigger concern more recently due to our energy efficient construction methods. Most moulds are not dangerous to the majority of people, but efforts to minimize all environmental moulds in homes will usually benefit both the occupants and the structure.

My scepticism of excess mould being the source of your smell is due to your statement that your crawl space is dry and dusty. I routinely see some standing water and moulds in crawl spaces, even in relatively new homes, like yours. When there is no visible moisture, either in puddles or behind the polyethylene air-vapour barriers, there are usually no mould-related odours. Also, the presence of an HRV in your home should help prevent excessive moisture, if it is properly serviced and the controls used correctly. Therefore, the first thing to do is follow your initial instincts and explore the entire crawl space, with a good quality respirator for breathing protection. Look for rot or mould on any leftover construction debris, cardboard sono-tubes or void forms, or on the floor components in the crawl space. Look for water vapour and fungus underneath the poly on the gravel floor. Finally, look for the same behind the poly covering the insulation on the foundation walls. If the floor poly has not been extended over this area and the insulation is expanded (white) foam insulation, cut away a small section where the smell is strongest and look for moisture and mould on the concrete beneath. Finally, your description of the smell could also be the result of small animals, such as rodents, that have found a way into this area and died, so be on the lookout for that as well.

If this initial crawl space inspection does not yield any concrete results, more components in this area must be checked out. The next most likely culprits are either the weeping tile and sump pump system, or the plumbing drains. It is not unusual that your sump is dry in the middle of winter, when the ground outside is frozen solid, but if the sump is dry in the spring and summer, then there is likely a real problem. It is possible that the plastic drainage piping in the crawl space was not installed with sufficient slope to properly drain into the sump pit. It is also possible that the soil in the crawl space has heaved since initial construction of the foundation and the weeping tile has lost its original slope. If there is standing water in these plastic drainage pipes, it is likely the cause of the smell. You may be able to check this out by taking the cover off the sump pit and looking backwards through the holes in the pit with a mirror and flashlight.

If you open the sump pit and you don't see at least three to four drainage tile ends emptying into this area from different directions, there may be another oversight. The weeping tile may have been installed but never properly connected to the sump. This is usually readily apparent by a large pool of water around the sump pit, which may not be present if the pipes were temporarily blocked during construction to prevent plugging with debris. If this is suspected, you should be able to pull up a portion of the poly around the pit and dig around until you locate all the drainage pipes. Again, stagnant water in the plastic drainage pipes will certainly promote mould growth and a strong odour.

If none of these are the culprit and everything appears dry, the issue could be an open drain or a loose or missing cleanout cap in the ABS plumbing drains. This type of defect would certainly explain the noxious smell you have described. A plumber should be able to tell if this is the problem. If you still can't figure out the source, call the builder or a CAHPI home inspector to get a fresh set of knowledgeable eyes on the situation. Being in Gimli, right on the shores of the biggest body of water on the Prairies, the situation may simply be extremely high humidity in the crawl space. That would be a problem that can often be solved with proper use of your HRV or other ventilation in this area.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his new website at www.trainedeye.ca

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz - Ask the Inspector
February 17

Renovation & Design

Compact fluorescent lights not hazardous

NEWS about the federal government mandating the use of compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) generated a number of questions about the safety and cost of these products. With a planned government ban on the sale of inefficient light bulbs by 2012 to cut down on greenhouse gas emissions, we need reassurances about CFLs. I got some very useful information from the website for Natural Resources Canada (NRCan), the department that made the announcement in the first place.

Are CFLs a fire hazard?

This was a big concern for several people who had seen a website showing a series of scary photos of distorted and melted CFL bulbs. NRCan has a reassuring explanation:

When a CFL fails or burns out, its base can discolour and give off a small puff of smoke. In some cases the plastic ballast can melt and turn black. This is a sign that heat is escaping as intended in the design of the bulb to prevent it from overheating. "Major manufacturers have designed the base with a flame-retardant plastic that does not burn or drop molten plastic."

They also say that bulbs should be replaced at the first signs of failure indicated by flickering, a popping sound, a burning odour, or browning of the ballast.

Are my home and family in danger from mercury poisoning if a CFL bulb breaks?

I was surprised to read that most new CFLs contain only three milligrams of mercury, which is about the amount it would take to cover the tip of a ball point pen. By comparison, an old thermometer contained 500 milligrams of mercury.

If a bulb breaks, NRCan tells us to open a window for 15 minutes to allow any mercury vapour to air out. Put on a pair of rubber gloves before cleaning up glass and phosphor powder.

Pick up the debris on hard surfaces using a damp paper towel and on carpet with something sticky like duct tape. It's OK to vacuum; just discard the vacuum bag along with the rest of the remains and dispose of properly through an eco-centre.

Fortunately, CFL glass is thicker than incandescent and more resistant to breaking.

Can CFLs be used outdoors in cold temperatures and what affects the life of a bulb?

This was an area of frustration for several readers as they said their pricey CFL outdoor bulbs were burning out as quickly as incandescent bulbs. Being no expert on lighting products, I know how important it is to pay attention to the manufacturers' recommendations for the operation of a bulb.

NRCan advises us to buy bulbs that can tolerate our cold climate. The coldest to the warmest temperature ratings are usually listed somewhere on the package. A few companies expect us to have X-ray vision, as their ratings are ensconced inside their sealed plastic wrapping. Some bulbs are only rated to start above 4 C, so only buy bulbs for outdoor use if the rating is clearly visible.

The best rating I found was to -20, although most of these bulbs will start when the temperature drops as low as -30, as long as the bulb is enclosed in a weather-protected fixture with ventilation slots.

These fixtures increase the temperature around the ballast which assists in winter operation. The ventilation slots allow heat to escape during warmer seasons. Enclosed fixtures without ventilation will result in a shorter lamp life.

When buying any CFL bulbs, look for the Energy Star symbol on the package. This ensures the product meets the Natural Resources Canada guidelines for energy efficiency. Also look for the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) certification or Canadian Standards Association (CSA) symbol, an indicator that the bulb has been tested and meets a standard of safety.

Inexpensive bulbs can be purchased from dollar stores with a UL certification, but they do not have the Energy Star approval.

Dimmers will drastically reduce the life of a CFL. This warning needs to be expanded. Some photosensor switches (these are lights that come on automatically when it gets dark and go off when it is light) and some electronic timer switches contain dimming circuitry and should not be used with CFLs. Check with the manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

CFLs can be used in motion detectors but as with any light that goes on and off for short periods of time, they will burn out sooner.

Keep the receipt and proof of purchase and return any bulbs to the manufacturer if they do not last the time period guaranteed on the package. Energy Star qualified lights must last at least two years "when operated in accordance with package and bulb directions."

Warranty information and a toll-free number and web address will be on the package.

For helpful information on CFLs available from the Office of Energy Efficiency, direct your browser to oee.nrcan.gc.ca/energystar/english/consumers/questions-answers.cfm.

-- Canwest News Service

Jane Dunbar
February 17

Renovation & Design

Compact fluorescents cheaper in long run

LOOKING for a way to make your home more energy efficient? It can be as simple as changing a light bulb.

Switching to energy efficient lighting is an inexpensive home upgrade. You will use less energy and lower your annual energy costs.

Lighting fixtures, lamps and bulbs can all be replaced with energy efficient models.

"When shopping for a new fixture or lamp, look for an Energy Star label on the product," says Tracy Sterdan, marketing specialist, Residential Lighting Program, Manitoba Hydro.

"The Energy Star symbol guarantees that the product has met strict specifications for quality, long life, colour, brightness and energy savings."

Choose Compact Fluorescent Light bulbs (CFL) for lamps and fixtures. CFL bulbs use about 75 per cent less electricity and last up to eight times longer than incandescent light bulbs.

"That's equal to almost four years," says Sterdan. "Although the initial cost of CFLs is higher, they are less costly in the long term and much more energy efficient than using regular incandescent bulbs.

"With CFL bulbs, you won't have to purchase or change bulbs as often."

CFLs are available for as low as $1.50 per bulb when purchased in multi-packs. They can cost as much as $20 per bulb for ones that are designed for special applications such as dimmer switches. In comparison, incandescent bulbs typically range from 50 cents to $4.

Sterdan notes that CFLs are as versatile as a regular bulb.

"They can be used in ceiling fans, lamps, outdoor fixtures and more. CFLs are more efficient when used in fixtures where lights remain on for a longer period of time, rather than in fixtures which are turned on and off repeatedly."

Halogen torchiere lamps use more energy than a compact fluorescent torchiere. In addition, halogen lamps reach really high temperatures. Replace a halogen torchiere with a compact fluorescent torchiere to save energy and reduce a safety hazard.

A compact fluorescent torchiere is much cooler and uses approximately 70 per cent less electricity.

"Switching a single Energy Star qualified compact fluorescent torchiere can result in electricity savings of more than $130 over the lifetime of the bulb, or about $20 annually," Sterdan says.

Building a new home? Lighting is one of the technologies included in a Power Smart New Home.

"Energy efficient lighting saves money and offers convenience," says Anna Stangherlin, marketing specialist, Power Smart New Home Program, Manitoba Hydro.

"Planning high or vaulted ceilings in your new home? The longer lifespan of a CFL requires fewer bulb changes in these hard to reach places."

Work with your builder to plan energy efficient lighting for your home. Manitoba Home Builders Association builders, contractors and associated members can discuss the Power Smart program and other Manitoba Hydro programs and rebates.

"MHBA members are current on energy efficient technologies," Stangherlin says. "They understand the practicality and benefits of adding these systems and technologies to your home."

Manitoba Hydro offers several rebates to homeowners who choose energy efficient light fixtures, bulbs and other energy saving devices.

Information is posted on Manitoba Hydro's website www.hydro.mb.ca or you can call 1-888-MBHYDRO (1-888-624-9376). (Power Smart trademark used under licence by Manitoba Hydro.)

Kevin Van is chairman of the Manitoba Home Builders' Association.

Kevin Van
February 17