Renovation & Design

Renovation & Design

Colour your décor black and white

White

Alone, white can be stark and cold. Using white to balance colour, however, is a great way to up the ante with your décor. White piping on a navy sofa, white wainscoting in a vivid pumpkin-coloured dining room or white stair rails against mahogany stairs add dimension and contrast to what might otherwise be dark or overpowering.

Colour needs contrast in order to work. If you painted a small bathroom navy, for instance, and didn't have any white accents in the room, it would appear dark and gloomy. Add a white shower curtain, white linens and white accent tiles and suddenly the room pops with drama. People often shy away from dramatic wall colour for fear of overpowering a space but if you have a good balance of white or cream accents to add to the mix then strong colour can really work.

Trim and architecture

Rambling old houses with tons of ornate trim, molding and other architectural details are great places to use strong colour. By painting the trim in white or cream you can use colours like brown, pumpkin, red and navy successfully because the trim will provide tons of visual interest and will help break up the strong wall colour. If your home doesn't boast ornate trim, add to it in order to make it look substantial enough to do the trick. You could also use white window treatments to offset rich wall colour if your window trim is insufficient in size.

White on white

For those who prefer a restful, monochromatic space, a white on white room can be glorious with the right elements added to it. In a restful bedroom, for example, tone on tone of white and cream will provide a luxurious and peaceful setting. To keep it interesting, use lots of texture and subtle pattern. Satins, brocades, chunky knits, cording and braiding and tons of trimmed accent pillows on the bed will create an oasis built for a queen.

Black

Black is dramatic but often necessary in small doses to give dimension to a space. Black picture frames against a vivid wall colour, for example, would be more stylish than wooden frames would be. Black and white photography is a wonderful way to add a personal touch to your décor in an artful way. Rethink all of those dated, colour portraits that are hanging up now and change them into black and white art. Display these photographs on black or ebony floating frames for an updated look. Other black accessories like those made of black iron are good fodder for a balanced décor. A touch of black here and there creates punches of subtle drama and sophistication. Black furniture can be visually overpowering so opt instead for touches of black in accents like lamps, accessories and shelving. Highlights of black in items like area rugs and draperies can be stunning touches as well. Don't rule out black because black rules!

Black and white together

The classic black and white tile floor comes to mind as just one example of how black and white together can create dramatic effect. While this look is not for everyone, black and white can work together in more subtle ways which can be just as interesting. Black toile, for example, would be a wonderful fabric for draperies or toss cushions in just about any colour décor. The black and white tones bring this timeless pattern into the present beautifully. Medium-sized black and white checks in bedding denote a masculine décor which would be great for young boys. Black and white stripes in small doses (like on an accent chair) can give a real punch of drama. A faux zebra print rug might be stunning in the den while a pattern of small black and white dots on a lampshade add subtle charm to a bedside lamp. Other ways to incorporate black into your décor is by using black cabinet hardware or blackboard paint on a pantry door.

Espresso is the new black

Espresso seems to be replacing black in the décor arena in places like bathroom vanities and cabinetry. This almost black colour can work well in place of plain black so don't shy away from it. Again, the balance of white (sink and tub) against this dark, dramatic colour makes it work. Balance is the key.

So, don't be shy of using great colour, just include some elements of white and/or black to balance the look and to add drama.

Coliver@3web.net

Connie Oliver - Room for Change
February 10

Renovation & Design

Sump pumps not the whole story in sewer backups

I installed a main check valve, a sump pit and pump and a floor drain check valve. My neighbour only installed a main check valve. He refuses to put in a floor drain check valve. His reasoning is that the weeping tile cannot be blocked. He says if the weeping tile is blocked it will cause the basement walls to crack and floors to heave from the resulting pressure built up in the weeping tiles. I say, the weeping tiles are only blocked for a relatively short time and the pressure he's talking about would not happen that fast. He says he would rather have a flooded basement than a cracked wall or heaved floor. Remember, he does not have a sump pit and pump.

My neighbour says a sump pump is useless because in a storm, often the power is out and then the pump doesn't work. That is what happened at his brother-in-law's place in Winnipeg and his basement got flooded from weeping tile water. A floor drain check valve would have prevented that and a water-tight sump pit.

With all the precautions I've taken, most say, it will never be flooded again. That's theoretically. Nothing is ever fail-safe.

Getting back to the question: When the main line check valve is closed by sewer backup, will having a floor drain check valve cause the floor to heave and the walls to crack because it has blocked the weeping tiles from draining?

-- Nathan T. Larry, e-mail

ANSWER -- I think you and your neighbour have a relatively good grasp of the concepts of the function of the backwater valve operations, but you are confused about the function of the weeping tiles relative to the floor drain in your older home. Your backup prevention measures are much more reliable than the home next door, but that is because of the sump pump, not the floor drain valve. I will explain the functions of those items in your homes and answer your question about damage due to blocked weeping tiles.

You are quite correct about the fact that the pump in your sump pit may not function until the next big storm that causes the sewers to exceed their capacity and force your main backwater valve to shut. In that situation, the rainwater flowing into the catch basin below your basement floor drain should drain into the sump pit through an overflow pipe connecting the two. Once enough water flows into the sump pit, the pump should engage and pump that water to the exterior of the home, through pipes attached to the sump pump. In some retrofit situations, one or more of the weeping tiles may have been cut to empty into the sump pit, rather than the old catch basin. In that situation, the sump pump may come on periodically. In my opinion, that is a better arrangement because it forces the sump pit to work, occasionally, which may prevent seizing from lack of use.

What your neighbour does not fully understand is the function and location of the back-flow prevention devices in your home. You state in your submission that you both have installed main "check valves" in your home. I assume these to be backwater valves located in the main house drain, located near the entrance of this sewer pipe into the home, below the basement floor slab. If that is indeed the case, the drain of the catch basin is located upstream of that valve. This means that once closed, wastewater can neither enter nor leave the catch basin from the main sewer. In other words, the small backup valve you put in the bottom of your floor drain catch basin is redundant. It will not be required, because water and sewage from the main drain cannot back up once the backwater valve is closed. If this one-way valve was installed at the top of the floor drain, that is a different situation that will be addressed later.

While preventing from sewage intrusion in the above scenario, this may open the door for a second issue to be dealt with. Since no water can now enter or leave through the blocked main sewer line, where does the rainwater go that is collecting in the catch basin from the weeping tiles? In your neighbour's home, it may quickly fill all the weeping tiles and catch basin and start to empty into the basement. That will be creating the same problems as before the backwater valve installation, only with clean rainwater this time. Your sump pump is the only proper protection from this occurring and the issue of having a catch basin valve will have no bearing on the outcome.

To address your neighbour's concern of full weeping tiles created by the catch basin valve and damage to the structure, it generally does not happen. Unless you have a valve installed at the top of the floor drain, rather than at the bottom of the catch basin, the extra weeping tile water will not cause extra pressure on the floor slab, it will just flow through the top of the floor drain into the basement. Your neighbour may not understand that the weeping tiles empty above the typical catch basin backup valve, not below. If you do have a backup device installed at the top of the floor drain, flush with the top of the basement floor, you should definitely remove it.

The final issue is the potential non-operation of the sump pump due to power failure or inactivity. I always recommend that clients test their sump pumps at least once a year, usually in the early spring, to ensure they are working. This can be done by simply filling the pit, partially, with water. As for protection from a power failure, I know numerous homeowners, mainly in Ontario, where power outages are a regular occurrence, who have a second battery-powered sump pump in the pit. This is normally hooked up to a typical marine battery situated near the pit. That may be the final part of the puzzle to ensure that you have the best protection possible in case of future sewer backups.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358.

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz - Ask the Inspector
February 10

Renovation & Design

Homestuff

IF you're looking for a jetted tub that's as much about function as it is about art, you might want to consider Neptune's series (there are 15 models in all) of minimalist, yet creatively-shaped (and contoured) jetted tubs. The goal, says Neptune, is to enhance the overall bathing experience by providing optimum water immersion, while fulfilling the main purpose of bathing: to keep you clean. For more information on Neptune products, see www.bainsneptune.com. Available at local bath and fixtures stores such as W.C. Potts, prices vary by model.

Who couldn't use a hue?

DOING a bathroom makeover and wondering how to add a tasteful dash of colour to your (hopefully) brand-new day spa? If so, you might want to consider a hue or two from Centura. Available in more than a dozen different shades, infusing some durable, coloured ceramic tile into the mix could be the creative touch that helps make the old look brand new. See www.centura.ca for more information; available at W.C. Potts and other fine bath and kitchen stores. MSRP: TBA

Taking a bath on art
February 3

Renovation & Design

Glass and mirrors --versatile and timeless

-- Marisse

DEAR Marisse -- Glass and mirror have always been decorating favourites, chosen not only for their subtle aesthetics but also for their inherent reflective qualities. You are seeing more of these materials in kitchens and bathrooms as new products and styles evolve. Every surface can be transformed, from counters and backsplashes to cupboard doors and even ceilings. Glass can be added to an older kitchen to immediately update it. For an inexpensive backsplash, try cutting a piece of mirror that fits snugly above your countertops. Your local glass cutter will do this for you. This is an ideal solution for making a tiny kitchen appear much larger. Today, there's a huge variety of clear and coloured glass tile in squares, rectangles and blocks. These are both practical and decorative on walls, backsplash areas, countertop insets or tabletops. A popular idea for changing the look of old cupboard doors is to cut out the centre and insert etched and frosted glass panels. Glass is easy to clean -- avoid mirror in busy areas, but otherwise its serene purity is magical. Glass will never go out of vogue.

DEAR Debbie -- We are considering repainting some walls that were previously sponge-painted. The sponge effect has created a wall that is no longer perfectly smooth. We are concerned that if we prime and then paint over these walls, the bumps will be visible under a smooth coat of latex paint. The room to be painted is a well-lit bathroom. What do you suggest?

-- Shaun

Dear Shaun -- Yes, the horrors of some of the old paint finishes do come back to haunt us. The problem with a sponge finish is that if undiluted paint was used rather than thinned-down paint, you do get a thick, dappled effect over the smooth surface of the wall. I am afraid you will still see these sponge marks when you cover it with a roller. Don't despair; there are a couple of options. One is wallpaper, which is the big trend at the moment. You will not feel these slight bumps under the paper. Or, if a fresh coat of paint is your option, then I would run over the wall with a sanding pad. Remember, it's only paint, not plaster, so it will smooth down very easily. If your surface is very bumpy you may want to apply a skim coat of plaster, but this shouldn't be necessary in your case.

DEAR Debbie -- I have a beautiful floor-to-ceiling fireplace made of flat river stone. The mantel is a strip of 1 1/2-inch cedar. I'd like ideas for a new mantel with a little more substance. Also, decorating the mantel is a challenge to me. How large should the objects be?

-- Charlotte

DEAR Charlotte -- When building a new mantel, it's a good idea to cut one to size out of cardboard first to make sure the scale is pleasing to the eye. Too small and it will look dwarfed by the stone as your existing cedar mantel does; too big and it will look clumsy. Try a different material such as an old beam or any rough piece of wood cut to the appropriate size. For a contemporary look, try a thick piece of glass -- it will look like it's floating on the stone. Make sure the mantel is supported properly as it will be heavy; either have it inserted well into the existing stone, or build a surround for it.

Mantel decorations look best if they are grouped. A set of picture frames together and then a group of vases, or try two tall vases either end. This is the fun part of decorating, and it's all about what pleases your eye.

Debbie Travis' House to Home column is produced by Debbie Travis and Barbara Dingle. Please e-mail your questions to house2home@debbietravis.com

Debbie Travis - House to Home
February 3

Renovation & Design

Put water woes on ice by drying air inside home

--Al Silva, e-mail

ANSWER -- At least once a year, I answer an inquiry on this very popular topic, which is probably the most frequent question I receive. The recent cold snap seems like an ideal time to address your question. Due to the large number of similar questions from faithful readers that I have stored on my hard drive, I ask that everyone please refrain from sending their version of this same problem. I hope that the following submission will answer most of your questions, so that my request will not be difficult to comply with.

To properly answer your question, we first have to address a couple of basic physical principals of the environment inside and outside your home. The first of these factors is the behaviour of air within our home, with relation to heating and cooling. As discussed many times in this column, house air contains a significant quantity of moisture in the form of dissolved water vapour. This moisture is typically measured as the Relative Humidity (RH) within the home, and this is the most useful measurement method to explain our issue of condensation on windows within your home. The reason that the humidity is "relative" is the fact that air can hold a finite quantity of water vapour at any given temperature. This quantity will increase significantly with air temperature. In simple terms, warmer air can hold more moisture and vice-versa.

If we say that our home has 50 per cent RH at normal room temperature of 21C, this may increase to 75 per cent RH, or higher, if we drop the air temperature by several degrees without adding any extra moisture. If we drop the air temperature dramatically, the RH will rise to near the saturation point of the air, or 100 per cent RH. If this threshold, often called the "dew point", is exceeded then the moisture in the air will be released in the form of condensation. In the natural world of Earth's atmosphere, this process leads to the formation of clouds and precipitation. In the interior environment of our homes, this precipitation may form on any surface that is significantly cooler than the heated air in the home. In your home, that surface is the cool glass of the windows.

While most modern windows have high quality glazing, called sealed units, that may be filled with inert gas and covered with a specialized coating, they are still subject to temperature fluctuations. The area of the window where the glass is inserted into the frame will have a seal or weather-strip integral to prevent air leakage, but it is difficult to completely seal these locations and prevent transfer of air and heat through these transition areas. In normal conditions, warm moist heated air inside the home will surround the window. On very cold days the heated air will deposit some of that moisture on the cool glass, which is colder than the surrounding walls & window frame. The coldest area of the glass is typically at the corners where the most air & heat loss occurs, for the reason stated above. That is why you typically see condensation and ice forming only at the corners of the sealed units. On the very coldest, windiest days, like those experienced recently, the water vapour may even freeze producing the ice you have described.

Now that we know why this is occurring, we can address your most pressing question about the remedy for this condition. Following through on our scientific explanation, there appear to be two basic methods to stopping the condensation and ice formation on the windows. The first approach would be to prevent the dramatic temperature drop at the windows, which causes the warm air to condense. This may be accomplished, to some degree, by caulking or sealing the windows better at these problem transition areas. Also, improving the air flow from the heating registers, by directing them toward the windows, may warm the window surface enough to prevent excessive sweating. The improved air flow will also aid in evaporation of any condensation that does form. While these measures may help to some extent, it may not solve the problem on the coldest days, so the following methods may be more successful.

The second approach is to reduce the amount of moisture in the air. To explain this, we must return to our physics lesson. As previously stated, dropping the air temperature will raise the relative humidity, making the likelihood of condensation much greater. If we cannot do much about the temperature drop at the windows on really cold days, we must concentrate our efforts on the other variable, the RH of the room air. If we have a RH of forty to fifty per cent at normal room temperature, which is not uncommon, it does not take that dramatic a temperature drop to reach the saturation point of one hundred per cent. If we reduce the RH at room temperature to twenty five per cent or lower, it will required much more of a temperature change to reach saturation. The less moisture dissolved in the warm air, the less the chance of condensation on the cool windows.

The approach of moisture management within the home may be much more effective to prevent sweating & ice formation on your windows. This can be accomplished by using your new home's heating and ventilation systems effectively. Because of the young age of your home, you probably have a central exhaust fan or HRV connected to registers in the bathrooms, and other rooms, that will exhaust moist air from the home and replace it with relatively dry exterior air. This should be controlled by a humidistat, often located next to the thermostat at a central location in the home. Also, a kitchen exhaust fan should be vented to the exterior and used anytime you are cooking, washing, or boiling water in this area. Running the furnace fan continuously may also help the exhaust system and will certainly aid in improving air flow over the windows.

The only drawback of this second approach is that the air in the home may feel excessively dry and be noted by dry skin and throats. Fortunately, it will be healthier for the components of the home to maintain a lower RH and may also prevent rot and mould growth, which will be healthier for you and your family.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors - Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358.

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz - Ask the Inspector
February 3