Renovation & Design

Renovation & Design

Bathroom fan the likely cause of frost on soffit

QUESTION -- We own a two-storey, 35-year-old home. In a recent upgrade we had aluminum siding, fascia and soffits installed. A possible problem may have developed in the soffit. This year we are noticing frost collecting on the soffit outside of a northeast-facing bedroom on the second floor. The frost is so extensive that it sometimes hangs in strands, and it collects in a vertical line on the window. This bedroom is located next to the main washroom on the second level. A high-powered fan vents the washroom.

Our kitchen is located on the main floor below the washroom. In the kitchen a stove, with a microwave positioned above it, is vented with a fan. Is the frost that collects on the soffit an indication of a venting problem? Is this possibly from the washroom, or the kitchen fan?

--Rita Toews, e-mail

ANSWER -- Upgrades to the exterior components of a home may appear to be primarily for esthetic reasons, but can also have effects on performance of the home, as you have experienced. I think the cause and solution to your problem should be very straightforward, but I will explore other possibilities, should the simple answer not be correct.

Installation of new manufactured siding and soffits can be a major improvement to the exterior of a home, especially if old wood siding and soffits are badly deteriorated or rotten. Caution must be taken to adequately assess the function of these old systems, prior to installation of the new material. Too often, contractors who specialize in these exterior components are not well versed in building science, and may cover up existing problems or mistakenly create new ones. Many types of old wood siding are designed to drain excess moisture that may get behind the siding due to wind-driven rain and melted snow. Also, this material may be quite "breathable" when compared to vinyl or metal siding. The original wall system was designed with this component in place and altering this with new coverings may prevent moisture from properly evaporating from this area.

If too much moisture is now being trapped behind the new siding, especially if it is insulated with a foam backer, it may be attempting to escape the wall and finding the perforated soffits as the only location for escape. Once out of the soffits, it may be freezing, creating the frost and ice you describe. While a possibility, I don't believe that this is the most likely source of the frozen moisture. Your question about the location of the kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans may yield a more realistic explanation.

Kitchen range hood and microwave exhaust fans often contain powerful motors that are required to blow heavy kitchen smoke and steam to the exterior. If the vent hood for this component is on the exterior wall below the soffit area, it could cause some frost on the window and soffit as the warm, moist air cools in its upward travels. Again, this is not normally responsible for this issue in a two-storey home, as the exhaust should dissipate or blow away before it hits these areas. The only other possibility of this creating the problems seen is if there is an opening, somewhere, in the connection between the vent hood and the ducting. This may have occurred if the hood was removed during the new siding installation and improperly reconnected. In that case, the steam may be escaping prematurely and getting trapped behind the new siding and creating the problem described in the first scenario, above.

The other possibility, which is the most likely, is that there is a problem with the upper bathroom exhaust fan system. In many homes your age the bathroom exhaust fans were vented out through a small metal register in the wooden soffits. This would have been easily visible on the old soffits, as these registers typically rust extensively from the bathroom moisture. The location of this final exit point for the bathroom fan was never a good idea, but the usual result was rotting of the old plywood soffits as the steam condensed quickly upon hitting the cold air in the soffits. If the installers of the upgraded metal soffits inadvertently covered up this register, without extending it through to the exterior, the trapped moisture is now showing up as frost and ice.

If the upper bathroom exhaust fan is not venting through the soffits, and a roof-mounted vent hood is seen above this area, there may be another answer for the frost. Many older bathroom exhaust fan ducts were poorly sealed and insulated inside the attic above. If the metal duct has rusted or become disconnected, the moisture from the exhaust fan will improperly escape into the attic. If this problem occurs near the shallow soffit area, condensation and heavy frost will develop on the underside of the roof sheathing. When this melts, on warm winter days, it will drip into the soffits, creating the ice you have seen.

With the cause of your problem almost certainly due to either of the last two possibilities identified with the bathroom exhaust-fan duct system, a trip into the attic is now warranted. Fortunately, the solution to either of these causes will be the same. If the existing ducting is leading toward the soffits, it should be immediately disconnected and rerouted upward to a new roof vent hood. Otherwise, ducts heading straight upward toward an old roof vent hood may be tested for defects by operating the fan while looking for leakage, with a flashlight, through the attic access hatch. Either way, installation of a new, roof-mounted vent hood and properly insulated ducting will stop the moisture from entering the soffit area.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the President of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his new website at www.trainedeye.ca.

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz - Ask the Inspector
February 24

Renovation & Design

Personal decor options brighten your space

LOVING where you live is easy when you make personalized design choices. The following list will give you ideas of simple decorating tricks that will create a big difference in your home.

1. Begin by choosing decorative fabrics for your home. Take a look at your wardrobe because people tend to wear colours they love. Look at how the colours in prints and plaids co-ordinate, contrast, and play off each other. If you find a colour, or combination of colours, that you like, wear that particular outfit when you shop for fabrics or meet with your decorator. Tip: In terms of flow, pull one colour throughout your home. Mix that colour with other tones and patterns.

2. Make a pair of old curtains look new by cutting off the curtain heading and hems and using panels to create a smaller, pocket curtain style.

3. Red may not be your favourite colour but, consider including red as an accent colour in your home i.e. candles, books, area rug. Why? Red draws attention away from other things in the room that you may not necessarily want noticed (i.e. dirty windows, peeling wallpaper, or a teenager that just won't get off the couch).

4. Liven up a small bathroom by decorating with stripes, either wallpaper or paint. This decorating trick gives the illusion of height, width and drama.

5. When dividing areas of a wall such as a chair rail, select the darkest colours for the bottom portion. This will help ground the scheme and not leave it floating.

6. Company is on the way, no time to redecorate! Purchase a bunch of tulips and display them in a wide-necked shallow container. Tip: The best way to keep tulips from drooping is to cut the stems short and bunch them together tightly.

7. Beautify a room by draping a table with an Indian sari; inexpensive and already hemmed. Finish the table with a stack of gilded picture frames and a vase of flowers in the centre.

8. If your home is stuck in the '80s, think lighting. Purchase and install updated lighting fixtures. Next, rearrange the furniture. You won't believe the difference!

9. Hide nicks or chips on old photo frames by gluing little trinkets over the damaged areas to hide them. For example, frame a photo of a golfer and decorate the frame with a tiny golf club or plastic tees.

10. When hanging picture frames, use rubber bumpers on the back of each picture. Not only will this help protect your wall but you won't have to constantly straighten the picture.

11. Tired of your kitchen cupboards? Painting is the least expensive option for redecorating your kitchen cabinets and it will give the room new life. With the right preparation, this job can be completed over a long weekend.

12. Save old window shutters and use them to organize. Clean, paint and either mount shutters to a wall or, the back of your bathroom door for holding magazines.

13. During the '60s and early '70s, bead curtains were popular. Well, like everything else in fashion, what goes around comes around and bead curtains are really making a big comeback. They are presently more intricate and are being used in a variety of ways to spruce up a tired room, a child's room or an apartment.

14. Decorate bookshelves sparingly. These are beautiful areas to display objects and books. However, they are also giant dust magnets. Reduce the number of items on bookshelves to only a few per shelf. This makes dusting easier and less time-consuming than shelves lined with lots of small knick-knacks. Better still, have glass doors installed over the shelves so that items inside don't become dusty as quickly.

15. Before you paint, here are a few tricks of the trade: Trick 1: To paint iron railings, use a car mitten. Put paint on mitten, take off surplus then grip railing with mitt and run hand up and down railing. Easy, quick and much less tedious than using a brush. Trick 2: If you have to paint pipes that are fixed to a wall, cut out a piece of cardboard, place this behind the pipes to be painted and then paint as usual. This will prevent any paint from getting onto the wall. Trick 3: When cleaning paint off mouldings, use a pumice stone soaked in detergent and water to gently rub along the moulding.

Solutions is compiled from various sources: hgtv.com, house-decorating-ideas.com, interiordezine.com, umpdesigns.com, thebluefish.com, asktooltalk.com, housekeepingchannel.com, hintsandthings.com. Thanks to all who sent in tips and tricks! Similar information may be found elsewhere.

Solutions Sleuth Reena Nerbas is a home economist and speaks professionally on the topic of household challenges; she is also the author of two national bestsellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions and Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets. She can be heard on radio programs across Canada and seen on the CBC TV show Living Winnipeg.

Visit me online at: www.householdsolutions.org

Reena Nerbas - Solutions
February 24

Renovation & Design

Home's bad smell likely moisture related

QUESTION -- We have a two-year-old house on a concrete foundation with a crawl space. Our problem is a persistent and worsening bad smell, somewhere between musty and dead animal, which is at its worst during the winter when the windows and doors are seldom opened.

I have researched the problem and most sources say that moulds that thrive on moisture are a likely cause. Although our crawl space had some moderate moisture problems during the wet summer of 2005, it dried quickly and has been dry since then. In fact, it is very dry and quite dusty now. The smell was not evident during the moisture problem, but now seems to be a little stronger in the crawl space than the rest of the house.

I am including some details that might be helpful. The foundation is concrete with interior rigid foam insulation. We have HRV ventilation and an electric forced-air furnace. The crawl space floor has a vapour barrier with gravel under and sand on top. The sump is dry.

Any advice you have would be much appreciated.

-- Terry Dann, Gimli

ANSWER -- I agree with some of the results of your research in that the smell is likely moisture related. However, I would not necessarily jump to the conclusion that mould is what you smell, but that is a strong possibility. I also agree that the source of the smell is likely related to the crawl space, or subsoil components, but I will also offer other possibilities to explore.

It is true that when we smell a damp, musty odour in low-lying areas in our home the source is often mould. Unfortunately, the presence of moulds in our homes has been a reality forever but has become a bigger concern more recently due to our energy efficient construction methods. Most moulds are not dangerous to the majority of people, but efforts to minimize all environmental moulds in homes will usually benefit both the occupants and the structure.

My scepticism of excess mould being the source of your smell is due to your statement that your crawl space is dry and dusty. I routinely see some standing water and moulds in crawl spaces, even in relatively new homes, like yours. When there is no visible moisture, either in puddles or behind the polyethylene air-vapour barriers, there are usually no mould-related odours. Also, the presence of an HRV in your home should help prevent excessive moisture, if it is properly serviced and the controls used correctly. Therefore, the first thing to do is follow your initial instincts and explore the entire crawl space, with a good quality respirator for breathing protection. Look for rot or mould on any leftover construction debris, cardboard sono-tubes or void forms, or on the floor components in the crawl space. Look for water vapour and fungus underneath the poly on the gravel floor. Finally, look for the same behind the poly covering the insulation on the foundation walls. If the floor poly has not been extended over this area and the insulation is expanded (white) foam insulation, cut away a small section where the smell is strongest and look for moisture and mould on the concrete beneath. Finally, your description of the smell could also be the result of small animals, such as rodents, that have found a way into this area and died, so be on the lookout for that as well.

If this initial crawl space inspection does not yield any concrete results, more components in this area must be checked out. The next most likely culprits are either the weeping tile and sump pump system, or the plumbing drains. It is not unusual that your sump is dry in the middle of winter, when the ground outside is frozen solid, but if the sump is dry in the spring and summer, then there is likely a real problem. It is possible that the plastic drainage piping in the crawl space was not installed with sufficient slope to properly drain into the sump pit. It is also possible that the soil in the crawl space has heaved since initial construction of the foundation and the weeping tile has lost its original slope. If there is standing water in these plastic drainage pipes, it is likely the cause of the smell. You may be able to check this out by taking the cover off the sump pit and looking backwards through the holes in the pit with a mirror and flashlight.

If you open the sump pit and you don't see at least three to four drainage tile ends emptying into this area from different directions, there may be another oversight. The weeping tile may have been installed but never properly connected to the sump. This is usually readily apparent by a large pool of water around the sump pit, which may not be present if the pipes were temporarily blocked during construction to prevent plugging with debris. If this is suspected, you should be able to pull up a portion of the poly around the pit and dig around until you locate all the drainage pipes. Again, stagnant water in the plastic drainage pipes will certainly promote mould growth and a strong odour.

If none of these are the culprit and everything appears dry, the issue could be an open drain or a loose or missing cleanout cap in the ABS plumbing drains. This type of defect would certainly explain the noxious smell you have described. A plumber should be able to tell if this is the problem. If you still can't figure out the source, call the builder or a CAHPI home inspector to get a fresh set of knowledgeable eyes on the situation. Being in Gimli, right on the shores of the biggest body of water on the Prairies, the situation may simply be extremely high humidity in the crawl space. That would be a problem that can often be solved with proper use of your HRV or other ventilation in this area.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (www.cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be e-mailed or sent to: Ask The Inspector, P. O. Box 69021, #110-2025 Corydon Ave., Winnipeg, MB. R3P 2G9. Ari can be reached at (204) 291-5358 or check out his new website at www.trainedeye.ca

trainedeye@iname.com

Ari Marantz - Ask the Inspector
February 17

Renovation & Design

Compact fluorescent lights not hazardous

NEWS about the federal government mandating the use of compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) generated a number of questions about the safety and cost of these products. With a planned government ban on the sale of inefficient light bulbs by 2012 to cut down on greenhouse gas emissions, we need reassurances about CFLs. I got some very useful information from the website for Natural Resources Canada (NRCan), the department that made the announcement in the first place.

Are CFLs a fire hazard?

This was a big concern for several people who had seen a website showing a series of scary photos of distorted and melted CFL bulbs. NRCan has a reassuring explanation:

When a CFL fails or burns out, its base can discolour and give off a small puff of smoke. In some cases the plastic ballast can melt and turn black. This is a sign that heat is escaping as intended in the design of the bulb to prevent it from overheating. "Major manufacturers have designed the base with a flame-retardant plastic that does not burn or drop molten plastic."

They also say that bulbs should be replaced at the first signs of failure indicated by flickering, a popping sound, a burning odour, or browning of the ballast.

Are my home and family in danger from mercury poisoning if a CFL bulb breaks?

I was surprised to read that most new CFLs contain only three milligrams of mercury, which is about the amount it would take to cover the tip of a ball point pen. By comparison, an old thermometer contained 500 milligrams of mercury.

If a bulb breaks, NRCan tells us to open a window for 15 minutes to allow any mercury vapour to air out. Put on a pair of rubber gloves before cleaning up glass and phosphor powder.

Pick up the debris on hard surfaces using a damp paper towel and on carpet with something sticky like duct tape. It's OK to vacuum; just discard the vacuum bag along with the rest of the remains and dispose of properly through an eco-centre.

Fortunately, CFL glass is thicker than incandescent and more resistant to breaking.

Can CFLs be used outdoors in cold temperatures and what affects the life of a bulb?

This was an area of frustration for several readers as they said their pricey CFL outdoor bulbs were burning out as quickly as incandescent bulbs. Being no expert on lighting products, I know how important it is to pay attention to the manufacturers' recommendations for the operation of a bulb.

NRCan advises us to buy bulbs that can tolerate our cold climate. The coldest to the warmest temperature ratings are usually listed somewhere on the package. A few companies expect us to have X-ray vision, as their ratings are ensconced inside their sealed plastic wrapping. Some bulbs are only rated to start above 4 C, so only buy bulbs for outdoor use if the rating is clearly visible.

The best rating I found was to -20, although most of these bulbs will start when the temperature drops as low as -30, as long as the bulb is enclosed in a weather-protected fixture with ventilation slots.

These fixtures increase the temperature around the ballast which assists in winter operation. The ventilation slots allow heat to escape during warmer seasons. Enclosed fixtures without ventilation will result in a shorter lamp life.

When buying any CFL bulbs, look for the Energy Star symbol on the package. This ensures the product meets the Natural Resources Canada guidelines for energy efficiency. Also look for the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) certification or Canadian Standards Association (CSA) symbol, an indicator that the bulb has been tested and meets a standard of safety.

Inexpensive bulbs can be purchased from dollar stores with a UL certification, but they do not have the Energy Star approval.

Dimmers will drastically reduce the life of a CFL. This warning needs to be expanded. Some photosensor switches (these are lights that come on automatically when it gets dark and go off when it is light) and some electronic timer switches contain dimming circuitry and should not be used with CFLs. Check with the manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

CFLs can be used in motion detectors but as with any light that goes on and off for short periods of time, they will burn out sooner.

Keep the receipt and proof of purchase and return any bulbs to the manufacturer if they do not last the time period guaranteed on the package. Energy Star qualified lights must last at least two years "when operated in accordance with package and bulb directions."

Warranty information and a toll-free number and web address will be on the package.

For helpful information on CFLs available from the Office of Energy Efficiency, direct your browser to oee.nrcan.gc.ca/energystar/english/consumers/questions-answers.cfm.

-- Canwest News Service

Jane Dunbar
February 17

Renovation & Design

Compact fluorescents cheaper in long run

LOOKING for a way to make your home more energy efficient? It can be as simple as changing a light bulb.

Switching to energy efficient lighting is an inexpensive home upgrade. You will use less energy and lower your annual energy costs.

Lighting fixtures, lamps and bulbs can all be replaced with energy efficient models.

"When shopping for a new fixture or lamp, look for an Energy Star label on the product," says Tracy Sterdan, marketing specialist, Residential Lighting Program, Manitoba Hydro.

"The Energy Star symbol guarantees that the product has met strict specifications for quality, long life, colour, brightness and energy savings."

Choose Compact Fluorescent Light bulbs (CFL) for lamps and fixtures. CFL bulbs use about 75 per cent less electricity and last up to eight times longer than incandescent light bulbs.

"That's equal to almost four years," says Sterdan. "Although the initial cost of CFLs is higher, they are less costly in the long term and much more energy efficient than using regular incandescent bulbs.

"With CFL bulbs, you won't have to purchase or change bulbs as often."

CFLs are available for as low as $1.50 per bulb when purchased in multi-packs. They can cost as much as $20 per bulb for ones that are designed for special applications such as dimmer switches. In comparison, incandescent bulbs typically range from 50 cents to $4.

Sterdan notes that CFLs are as versatile as a regular bulb.

"They can be used in ceiling fans, lamps, outdoor fixtures and more. CFLs are more efficient when used in fixtures where lights remain on for a longer period of time, rather than in fixtures which are turned on and off repeatedly."

Halogen torchiere lamps use more energy than a compact fluorescent torchiere. In addition, halogen lamps reach really high temperatures. Replace a halogen torchiere with a compact fluorescent torchiere to save energy and reduce a safety hazard.

A compact fluorescent torchiere is much cooler and uses approximately 70 per cent less electricity.

"Switching a single Energy Star qualified compact fluorescent torchiere can result in electricity savings of more than $130 over the lifetime of the bulb, or about $20 annually," Sterdan says.

Building a new home? Lighting is one of the technologies included in a Power Smart New Home.

"Energy efficient lighting saves money and offers convenience," says Anna Stangherlin, marketing specialist, Power Smart New Home Program, Manitoba Hydro.

"Planning high or vaulted ceilings in your new home? The longer lifespan of a CFL requires fewer bulb changes in these hard to reach places."

Work with your builder to plan energy efficient lighting for your home. Manitoba Home Builders Association builders, contractors and associated members can discuss the Power Smart program and other Manitoba Hydro programs and rebates.

"MHBA members are current on energy efficient technologies," Stangherlin says. "They understand the practicality and benefits of adding these systems and technologies to your home."

Manitoba Hydro offers several rebates to homeowners who choose energy efficient light fixtures, bulbs and other energy saving devices.

Information is posted on Manitoba Hydro's website www.hydro.mb.ca or you can call 1-888-MBHYDRO (1-888-624-9376). (Power Smart trademark used under licence by Manitoba Hydro.)

Kevin Van is chairman of the Manitoba Home Builders' Association.

Kevin Van
February 17

Renovation & Design

Poly sheeting, new fan can help dry crawlspace

QUESTION: I built my home four years ago in accordance with strict U.S. county and state energy requirements. My problem is condensation in the crawlspace, along the foundation wall on the north side of the house during the winter months. The moisture is wetting my rim joist, floor joists, insulation and mud sill. I installed more foundation vents, but this hasn't helped. Do you have any suggestions?

ANSWER: The good news is that the energy-efficient techniques that were employed in the construction of your home have helped to create living space that is less drafty and more comfortable. The bad news is that while the home is less drafty, the crawlspace is also less drafty -- permitting a buildup of moisture and condensation.

The fact that you have an abundance of moisture and condensation is evidence that there is a lack of ventilation in the crawlspace of your home. It sounds like you have already employed step one of our recommendations -- the installation of additional foundation vents at the perimeter of the home.

If this doesn't work, and it sounds as if it hasn't, then we suggest you install a layer of six-mil (that's the thickness) polyethylene right on top of the ground in the crawlspace. You'll want to be sure to carefully cut around any interior piers, leaving enough excess material so you can tape a "collar" around these piers to minimize the transfer of air. All seams should be lapped a minimum of 15 centimetres and taped with an industrial-strength tape. Duct tape like that used by heating contractors will do just fine. Most major hardware stores or home improvement centres will have just what you need.

If this doesn't solve the problem, then we suggest you consider contacting a heating and sheet metal contractor and examine the possibility of an auxiliary fan in the crawlspace, which, in combination with the other preventative steps, should do the trick.

--Associated Press

James and Morris Carey
February 17

Renovation & Design

Fluorescent lights mar radio reception

QUESTION: I work in a community building where we recently had new fluorescent fixtures installed in the ceiling. They are the new electronic ballast type, and now we're having problems with interference noise when using radios. The engineers at the manufacturing company have given us tips that we used that haven't helped, like plugging the radios into different outlets. Our electrician can't find any additional problems. What can we do?

ANSWER: The fluorescent lighting is creating a magnetic field that can interfere with radio waves. A common problem with this is a loose wire in a circuit that is arcing and causing additional interference, but since your electrician has already checked this it shouldn't be a problem. Unfortunately, there is not much to be done as the new electronic ballast fluorescents simply cause more interference than the old mechanical type. Try using an AM antenna on your radios to help them receive the signal.

-- The Associated Press

Morris and James Carey
February 10

Renovation & Design

Today's steam showers also make good 'scents'

IF you are anything like us, your first morning challenge during cold winter months is maintaining your body temperature once you've left the warmth of your bed.

Accomplishing this usually involves waiting for hot water to preheat the shower stall. If you have a steam shower, even toastier.

Recently, after 10 years of cosy mornings, our steam shower went on the blink. Not one drop of steam. No more billowing warmth. We rushed to find a replacement to end our frozen mornings -- and discovered a whole new kind of steam.

Before we elaborate, we need to explain that a steam generator is nothing more than an overdeveloped electric tea kettle. Electricity turns water to steam, which is then sent through the wall via a short pipe or "spout" into your enclosed shower.

The shower has to be tiled everywhere, including the ceiling, and the opening over the shower door needs to be sealed with a piece of safety glass, which corrals the steam and keeps it within the enclosure where it can do the most good. You can take a steam shower and a regular shower all at the same time to get really, really clean.

You've been waiting for what we discovered, right? In our search for a replacement we found that steam shower technology has improved over the past 10 years. Steam generators used to merely produce steam. Today they definitely do more.

We interviewed Martha Orellana, vice-president of Mr. Steam, one of the country's largest manufacturers of steam generators. Orellana, known by company employees as "Mrs. Steam," gave us an inside look at some pretty cool innovations.

Aromatherapy: Do you like the smell of eucalyptus, lavender or mint? How about during a shower? Orellana told us that today's steam generators can be fitted with a built-in automatic scented-oil dispenser that injects and blends aromatic oils directly into the steam. The Carey wives have spent more money than makes good "scents" at fancy health spas for nothing more than these soothing whiffs. Orellana says it's a calming therapy -- even more so without the big spa bill.

Chromatherapy: "Like water and heat, light can affect how we feel," Orellana says. If you don't believe her, ask John Travolta how he felt in the '70s, dancing under a disco ball illuminated by coloured strobe lights. Orellana says certain colours ranging from soothing shades of blue and green to sensual and energizing colours like red and orange can be selected to saturate the steam environment.

Music therapy: Also known as Beatles-therapy or Bach-therapy. Speakers can whisper your favourite tune in the shower. Sorry, Mrs. Steam, you're too late. We've had waterproof speakers in the ceiling of our shower for more than 10 years. And yes, you're right -- music in the shower is incredibly soothing.

Now, for the rest of the story. There was absolutely nothing wrong with our steam generator. It was a bad wire in a nearby electric panel. Within an hour of discovering the problem, our unit was up and running again.

We had steam again. What a disappointment.

-- Canwest News Service

Morris and James Carey
February 10

Renovation & Design

solutions

WHETHER you are organizing the kitchen or preparing food for the family, there's no room in the house as busy as the kitchen, so make the most of what you have!

1. Organize meat in freezer by dividing each product into type: ground beef, chicken, seafood, deli-meat, pork & ham, beef, etc. Put each meat into its own plastic basket labelled with a laminated card. This will make locating supper a snap. Replenish newly bought meat, by placing it onto the bottom of the container so that everything is used in the order it was bought.

2. Store cheap measuring cup sets inside bins. One entire measuring cup set in the flour bin, another set inside the sugar, whole wheat flour, icing sugar etc. Bring your mixing bowl to the correct bin and always have the right cup for measuring ingredients. No need to wash measuring cups after each use, simply toss them back into the correct bin.

3. Before plunging into a new recipe, line up all of the ingredients on the counter and remove each lid. Close each lid after it is used, this way you do not need to wonder whether you already added that ingredient to the recipe.

4. Proper disposal of used cooking oil is an important waste-management concern. Oil is lighter than water and tends to spread into thin and broad membranes that hinder the oxygenation of water. Because of this, a single litre of oil can contaminate as much as 1 million litres of water. Also, oil can congeal on pipes causing blockages. Because of this, cooking oil should never be dumped on the kitchen sink or in the toilet bowl. The proper way to dispose of oil is to put it in a sealed non-recyclable container and discard it with regular garbage.

5. Enjoy bread longer when you buy the freshest loaves. Did you know that bread is delivered fresh to the stores five days a week? Commercial bakeries colour-code each day's production with a different colour plastic clip. Always buy the loaf with the twist tie or plastic clip indicating the most recent delivery date. Monday-Blue, Tuesday-Green, Thursday-Red, Friday-White, Saturday-Yellow.

6. When making sandwiches for lunches, wrap lettuce and tomatoes in waxed paper or plastic wrap, instead of adding them directly to the bread. This way when lunch comes around there are no soggy veggies taking up space between the slices.

7. When preparing stuffed ground beef peppers, cut the peppers crosswise instead of lengthwise, leave the seeds in each pepper to add flavour to the beef. This allows each pepper to fit nicely inside a muffin tin before baking. Fill peppers with cooked hamburger meat, before baking.

8. If you purchase ice cream but don't often use it, wrap the container in aluminum foil to prevent ice buildup on ice cream. (Ugh, I just caught a chill).

9. Messy, messy ice cream. Slip a chocolate chip into the bottom point of the cone to prevent ice cream from dripping out. My motto: You can never go wrong with chocolate.

10. Lumpy gravy got you down? Blend 1 tsp. salt into the flour or cornstarch (depending on what you use) before adding water. Tip: Darken and liven up gravy by adding 1 tsp. instant coffee to the roasting pan.

11. Put your grater to good use. Grate hard-boiled eggs for egg salad sandwiches instead of slicing or mashing. What a grate tip!

12. Need soft butter but forgot to take it out of the fridge? Been there. Measure the correct amount of butter and grate it with your cheese grater. Small pieces of butter are easy to work with. Or shave butter with a carrot peeler and shape into roses (that's getting very Martha Stewart).

13. Speaking of eggs, want to make a speedy breakfast for the entire family? Break up eggs into a non-stick baking pan, add a little water or milk and whisk. Bake in the oven (350 degrees) until eggs are the desired firmness. Season and serve. Sooo, simple!

14. Cheese will not harden as quickly if you butter or oil the exposed cut edges before storing in the refrigerator.

15. Before barbecuing shrimp, thread them onto two skewers instead of one; this keeps the shrimp from spinning around when you turn them on the 'que.

Solutions, is compiled from various sources: en.wikipedia.org, daringyoungmom.com, rogerandbrenda.com. Thanks to all who sent in tips and tricks! Similar information may be found elsewhere.

Solutions Sleuth, Reena Nerbas is a home economist and speaks professionally on the topic of household challenges; she is also the author of two national bestsellers, Household Solutions 1 with Substitutions and Household Solutions 2 with Kitchen Secrets. She can be heard on radio programs across Canada and seen on the CBC TV show Living Winnipeg.

www.householdsolutions.org

Reena Nerbas
February 10