Renovation & Design
Question: I own several pets, and therefore my baseboards are constantly coated with pet hair and dust. Please share some easy cleaning tips. — Sarah
Answer: Using the dust attachment on your vacuum, clean your baseboards regularly. The second solution is to wipe baseboards with a fabric softener sheet. This cleans the baseboards and helps repel dust and fur from the boards.
Question: How do I prevent life’s little critters from feasting on my corn? — Adam
Answer: To keep birds and small animals from eating corn, secure thin, dark-coloured string or wire in a zigzag pattern across the bed. String should be about three centimetres above the ground level. Not being able to walk properly will frustrate the birds and encourage them to leave. Also, keep birds away from the garden by placing a pinwheel nearby. Or attach aluminum foil strips to a stake. If you happen to have an artificial owl lying around the yard, place it high in the garden to deter feather folk.
Question: What is the best way to clean the grout on my shower floor? Some of the grout has turned white-ish and I was wondering what the best way would be to clean it. Thanks, Peter
Answer: For regular cleaning, scrub the grout with Dawn dish soap and a pumice stone designed for cleaning grout. Rinse with water. For grout with a white mineral build-up, spray the grout with lemon juice or white vinegar. Scrub the wet grout with baking soda and a pumice stone. Rinse with water. Or use a steam cleaner to steam the grout and scrub with a stiff brush. One other solution that you can try is to wipe mineral oil in the grout. As long as the oil stays in the grout and not on the tiles, the surface should not be slippery. I had a bathroom counter with white mineral build-up and this solution worked well.
Question: At restaurants, I order ribs every chance I get, but every time I make ribs at home, they end up chewy and unpleasant to eat. What am I doing wrong? Rob
Answer: Here are a few tips to ensure the ribs are fall off the bone, ooey, gooey and delicious! Use a sharp knife to cut off the fat on the ribs. Turn the ribs over and use a sharp knife to cut off the grey/silver membrane. It should peel off, with a little help. Removing the membrane will result in a less chewy meat. Another tenderizing step is to cut a lemon in half and rub all sides with the juice of the lemon. Add your homemade or store-bought rub to the meat. Bake or use a slow cooker or grill the meat at a low temperature and for a long time. Baste the ribs with your favourite barbecue sauce and grill or broil for three minutes per side.
Cleaning rusty toilet
I found that pouring a can of Coca-Cola into the toilet bowl at bedtime removes toilet rust. When I wake up, I scrub the toilet bowl with a toilet brush, and it’s clean. — Nelson
Cutting board solutions
After noticing that my cut watermelon had an onion taste, I finally purchased a variety of dishwasher-safe cutting boards for a variety of jobs. Here is my system: Green board for fruits and vegetables. Purple board for onions, peppers, jalapeno and garlic. Blue board for cheeses. Red board for meats. Stainless steel board for kneading dough. — Reena
Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.
Have a great suggestion or tip? Please send an email at: firstname.lastname@example.org. Reena Nerbas is a popular motivational presenter for large and small groups; check out her website: reena.ca.
Question: I have a closed-in deck room that had the roof extended over it, with spray foam insulation over the original metal. It has an open-joist ceiling, and I want some more insulation to cover the joists. This room is on the north side. I got a good deal on rigid foam, R-5, and Tech Shield foil-lined paper roll. I wanted to cover the joists with the foil, facing down, and then with the foam boards. After, I want to spray this with paint as a ceiling, but I noticed you said that’s a potential fire hazard and not code-compliant. I am not sure about thermal dynamics, but I would do that if I could, because it is simpler and cheaper.
If I put the foam between the joists, and the tech shield at the bottom of the joists, then use thin drywall for a ceiling, would that work? Will that insulate properly and with respect to the radiant barrier, and not create vapour issues? The tech shield specifically says that you must leave four inches top and bottom for circulation. I assume that some vapour exchange could take place through both the foam board and also the drywall. Is that correct?
Thanks ahead for any clarification you can give me.
Answer: Insulating the ceiling of a converted porch or enclosed screened deck can pose significant challenges. Using rigid foam is a good idea, if installed and sealed properly, but products like your reflective foil should not be bothered with.
I am not completely sure how the original metal roof of your enclosed deck was covered, but I will assume it has spray-on foam insulation, with a painted surface, added overtop. That will provide some thermal resistance, but should also provide a good water- and air-resistant barrier. If that is not sufficient insulation for the use of this room adding more insulation beneath, before heating, is a good idea. Since this portion of the building enclosure is now well sealed, you must be careful to ensure you don’t leave any air spaces below that could lead to problems.
In your initial plan, to leave the space between the ceiling joists or rafters open above the insulation could be catastrophic. This large a gap above the insulated and partially air-sealed insulation would leave a perfect place for condensation, frost, and mould growth. Because this area would be substantially colder than the room during the heating season, any air that leaked in through the foam and tinfoil membrane would condense and freeze. The water that would result from the melted winter frost would also be restricted from drying by the insulated ceiling below, and the roof above, and would lead to rot and mould growth in the cavity.
The second method that you proposed would be much more productive, as long as it was well air-sealed. You have not stated whether your foam board was expanded foam or extruded foam. Extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam generally has good air-sealing capabilities, while expanded foam, noted by the small visible balls inside, has limited air-sealing properties. If you use XPS sheathing, you may only have to caulk or foam around the edges and any seams to achieve a proper air seal. Either way, the entire ceiling joist cavity would have to be filled with insulation to prevent moisture issues.
Adding a layer of drywall below would complete the job, as not only would it provide a fire-resistant layer, but allow for proper painting, which the foam alone would not.
The installation of the foil paper membrane may be the component that you could leave out of the equation. This type of product works by reflecting radiant energy. While this may indeed work to reflect this energy back to the living space, most of the heat energy that escapes into attics and roof assemblies is not radiant in nature. Because of the stack effect in buildings, much of the heat that escapes into this area is heated air due to convection, not radiation. The proponents of this type of heat loss reduction membrane are not well versed in building science and poor installation of that type of product can cause serious issues.
Unless you are living in a desert environment in the Southwest U.S., where attic insulation is required to keep attics and buildings cool from the summer heat and sun, this product may be useless or even harmful to your efforts.
Using rigid foam for insulating a roof cavity with limited space between the joists is a good idea, as long as it completely fills the void and is properly air-sealed. Adding products like foil radiant barriers will certainly complicate the job and are otherwise useless and should be left out of the plans.
Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors — Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.