Renovation & Design

Renovation & Design

Identifying sewer back-up protection

Question: I have recently applied for increased sewer back-up coverage on my house insurance. The broker has sent me a questionnaire asking whether my home has a backwater valve or other sewer back-up protection. My home is in built in the '80s and is a typical bungalow with unfinished basement. How do I find out if I have one of these and where will it be located?

Anonymous, Linden Woods

Answer: While insurance issues are only a small portion of what is normally discussed during a typical pre-purchase inspection, they are becoming more of a concern every year. Electrical wiring issues are at the forefront of most of this dialogue, but protection from sewer back-up is a particularly common issue in our area.

Municipal sewers are used in many areas not only to remove liquid waste from our plumbing systems, but also to divert rainwater and melted snow from our yards and streets. In newer areas like yours there is often a dual system where separate pipes are used for the sewage and the runoff. This makes it less likely a major back-up will occur, as the rainwater will often drain to a large retention pond or other area not directly connected to the sewage treatment facilities.

In older areas there may be only one underground piping system collecting all the liquid household waste and the rainwater together. These older sewers are the ones most likely to back up, primarily during a heavy summer rainstorm or rapid spring melt. If the amount of runoff exceeds the capacity of the buried sewage pipes, some of their contents may flow in the wrong direction and enter homes through various plumbing fixtures or drains. Alternatively, if the sewers become overwhelmed during heavy rains, excess ground water entering the catch basin beneath the basement floor slab may not be able to drain out quick enough and also may partially flood into the basement.

There are primarily two types of plumbing devices used to prevent sewage backing up into our homes, should the system become overburdened due to damage or flooding. The first is a true backwater valve, which is likely the one installed in your home. If your house has a sump pit and pump, you are already ahead of the game for protection from back-up. During the decade your home was built, most areas in Winnipeg phased in the requirements for sump pits and pumps to replace the traditional catch basin above the basement floor drain. The first thing to look for is a sump, and if it has large holes in the sides for draining the weeping tiles, you are more likely to have an integral backwater valve. If you don't have a sump your weeping tiles should terminate inside a concrete catch basin, and should be visible by lifting the cover of the basement floor drain. In that situation the presence of a backwater valve is less likely unless installed after the home was built.

If you discover your home has an original sump and pump, often located beneath the basement stairs, locating the backwater valve may only be a matter of diligence. This device will be hidden beneath the concrete basement floor slab, so finding the cover will be the key. If your basement is finished, especially if the floor is covered, finding this device may be tricky. Walking the entire surface of your basement floor and gently tapping with a hammer or other hard implement may reveal the location. A dull sound should be heard when traversing most of the solid basement slab, but a much louder one in small isolated areas should be the hallmark of a hollow area. This may turn out to be a round plastic disc which will reveal the top of the valve when removed. The space above the buried device may be covered with a small piece of plywood, set flush with the top of the concrete surface. This will have to be pried up to see what is located beneath. Careful work should allow it to be replaced afterward.

Most modern in-line backwater valves I have seen will have a distinctive round, black top with a raised bar in the middle. The bar is to facilitate rotation of this cover to allow removal and exposure to the actual valve located below. This removable top is there to allow repair or replacement of the valve should it fail, which is possible with any mechanical device. It should not be necessary to remove this to successfully answer your question, but may be prudent to have a licensed plumber check it to ensure it is still functioning as designed.

The next type of valve is a much smaller and readily visible device, designed to be easily installed inside the floor drain. These can be viewed by removing the lid from your floor drain, and may be covered by corrosion and debris, but normally will have a small brass rod sticking up through a small hole in the middle. This rod will be attached to a round ball, which is designed to lift and plug the top of the valve should the fluid in the drain rise high enough. These may be effective to prevent sewage backing up if in good condition, but are lower quality and subject to poor operation due to neglect.

Locating a true in-line backwater valve in your basement, or a lower quality floor drain model, should satisfy the requirements of your insurance questionnaire, but ensuring they are in good working condition will be the only way to prevent your basement from a harmful sewage back-up.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.

trainedeye@iname.com

By Ari Marantz
August 8

Renovation & Design

Vegetable oil removes grease from cast iron pans

Question: Do you have a solution on how to remove grease that seems to be baked onto the bottom of my old cast iron frying pan? I have tried some commercial cleaners, but they didn't work. Maybe you have a remedy that will work. You have such interesting hints in your articles, I try not to miss any of them, but I haven't been able to find anything pertaining to this problem. Thank-you so much, Carol, Winnipeg

Answer: Begin by washing the pan with dish soap and water, next take a little vegetable oil on a paper towel and wipe around the inside and outside. Put the pan in the oven on about 225 for a few hours. Enjoy your pans and do not worry, even though they may not look clean, they are clean. If you are not happy with the appearance, consider trying oven cleaner on your pans (make sure to use in a ventilated area).

Question: This summer our dog has been very smelly. He is a beautiful long-haired golden retriever, 2.5-years-old. He really enjoys the outdoors, walking, swimming, running, fetching. He is very friendly and into everything. We have bathed him numerous times throughout the summer, using dog shampoos, but still he smells. Is there a product or solution you would recommend, to eliminate this awful odor? We use the following shampoo brands: WAHL and Hartz. Sincerely, Ryan, Sanford

Answer: It is obvious by your attention to detail you are doing your very best to care for your dog. It is important to note like humans; body smell can permeate from our insides not necessarily from the outside. People who eat lots of garlic for example eventually begin to smell like garlic. Since shampoos aren't remedying the smell you may need to consider the next step. With that said, it sounds as though your golden retriever needs a trip to the vet to investigate what is going on inside his body and to determine the cause of the odor. His odor may be linked to his diet or a medical condition and will be worth checking out.

Question: I need your help. I have yellow spots on my linoleum in our bathroom. It is caused from using lemon scented Mr. Clean. I have tried everything to remove the stains but nothing works. I can't afford new lino. Please tell me how to remove these stains. Thank- you. Jackie, Winnipeg

Answer: Unfortunately the yellow stains may be permanent. With so many vinyl and linoleum products on the market, it seems what works on one does not necessarily work on another. If your floor is more than 50 years old it is most likely linoleum, in this case the linseed that makes up linoleum has discolored. In order to bring back the color the floor would need to be stripped and refinished. Doing this may or may not remove yellowing.

Or perhaps, the floor is actually vinyl. Many people have found pouring three per cent hydrogen peroxide onto the floor every day for three days is helpful. Other people have had great success by combining one quarter cup OxiClean with one gallon hot water and pouring the solution onto the area. Another solution is bleach but most experience this application removes the floors finish and shine. Lastly, mineral spirits is another treatment people have told me worked for them.

Question: My neighbor brought me eggplants from her garden. How do I prepare them? Should I cook them? Colton, Brandon

Answer: Yes, you definitely need to cook them. Here is one idea for preparing eggplant: Peel the skin off and slice the eggplant into one quarter inch pieces. Dip the pieces into beaten eggs and then coat them with breadcrumbs. Fry the pieces in vegetable oil until golden brown on both sides. Dab off the excess oil. Lay the slices in a pan and cover with spaghetti sauce and mozzarella cheese. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees for 30 mins. Another option is to put the fried eggplant inside sandwiches or add pieces to soups or stews.

Note: Every user assumes all risks of injury or damage resulting from the implementation of any suggestions in this column. Test all products on an inconspicuous area first.

I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Need a Presenter on the topic: Effective Speaking or The Power of Words? Check out: Reena.ca

By Reena Nerbas
August 1

Renovation & Design

Choice of building materials should reflect humidity conditions

Question: I enjoyed an article you wrote about dealing with moisture issues in a cottage crawl space. My question is from a different angle. I'm looking to build a "baby boomer" cottage, one level, and have been reading on the type of foundation and building materials to use. The area is on the ocean, Bay of Fundy, N.S.. The cottage would initially be seasonal. Is it better to run utilities during the winter, instead of draining the pipes? What is your experience on this? My concern is it being too weather tight and unable to breathe if it is closed up. I'm also looking at whether it should be stick built versus using structural insulated panels. Do you have any advice for the foundation or any other materials that would work?

Thanks, Karen D.

Answer:

Choosing to build a traditional summer cottage may not be the option it was several decades ago. Because of stricter adherence to building codes, this may not be possible, depending on local authorities. Deciding on specific building materials is always a challenge when building new, but exploring local requirements and experience from local building professionals will be a must, to truly know the best options.

Despite your desire to plan your baby boomer ocean-side home for mainly summer use, it will still likely have to be built for year-round use. For many decades, small communities and other areas throughout Canada have allowed summer use cottages, cabins, or camps to be built without taking harsh winter habitation into consideration.

Thousands of these older summer residences still exist, but are slowly disappearing. Many areas in most provinces are requiring all newly built structures to adhere to the minimum requirements of the National Building Code (NBC). This includes thermal windows, proper insulation and air/vapour barriers, and a functional heating system. Because of this, some material choices may be limited to traditional materials such as OSB or plywood sheathing for the roof and wall sheathing and batt insulation with polyethylene for the walls. More modern blown-in foam insulation may be used, but will be much more costly.

My experience with building in a very humid environment is limited to numerous lakes in Manitoba and Northwestern Ontario which, other than the saltwater, should have conditions similar to your location. I have only visited the Bay of Fundy area a couple of times, but have stayed in properties with similar ocean-front locations on those occasions. The summer/fall climate does remind me of many lakes in this area, but I'm sure winters are somewhat warmer and much wetter than on the prairies. For this reason, the choice of building materials should certainly reflect the high humidity conditions.

Traditionally, in many waterfront locations, wood-clad structures were chosen for many reasons. While they required regular painting and maintenance, they performed well for decades.

The natural properties of many types of softwoods allow them to readily absorb moisture, but also release it and dry quickly, preventing damage. Woods like cedar and Douglas fir, which have natural resistance to rot, have always been a good choice for seasonal homes. Unfortunately, the availability and cost of these materials can be limiting and you may want to look at manufactured products for some of these components. Siding and exterior trim, which can take the brunt of the harsh weather conditions, should be especially durable. Cement composition siding, or less-costly vinyl siding, will be very weather-resistant choices to combat the humid conditions. They both are also very low maintenance, compared to other natural siding materials, allowing you to spend your leisure time enjoying your summer home rather than constantly painting.

The type of foundation and framing materials used will largely depend on the interpretation of the NBC by the local building officials. Checking with the municipality where your new building is located to find out these requirements before obtaining building permits should yield some of your desired answers. If the area is primarily surface bedrock, foundations may be simple. If the area has poorer quality soil, or sandy soil conditions, a more elaborate foundation may be required. Poured concrete piers, driven piles, or concrete footings may be needed to prevent serious building movement. This is very important on ocean-front properties, especially if the lot has a substantial slope.

My observations from your part of the globe are that these are very realistic possibilities. As far as the choice between framing the building one board at a time versus manufactured trusses and components will depend on numerous factors such as access, cost and availability.

My own summer home is fully insulated and heated for year-round use, but we choose to drain the pipes and turn the heat off most winters. That is due to the limited number of times were use it in the winter, so it does not make sense to waste the energy and money just to keep the pipes from freezing.

Most municipalities will require you to build to modern standards and the NBC, including a proper foundation and insulation. Checking with local authorities, before you finalize your plans, may save you a good deal of frustration, once those choices are made.

Ari Marantz is the owner of Trained Eye Home Inspection Ltd. and the past president of the Canadian Association of Home & Property Inspectors -- Manitoba (cahpi.mb.ca). Questions can be emailed to the address below. Ari can be reached at 204-291-5358 or check out his website at trainedeye.ca.

trainedeye@iname.com

By Ari Marantz
August 1

Renovation & Design

Permanent marker need not be permanent

QUESTION: I just discovered several Sharpie/permanent marker smudges on my dark brown leather sofa. Is there any way to clean this? I kindly thank you! Shauna, Winnipeg

ANSWER: Attempting to remove these stain may make the areas additionally visible, therefore you may want to leave them alone. However, here are a few suggestions of removers that have had good results on permanent marker. Begin by blotting the area with a generous amount of Dawn dish soap, water and a white cloth. If some of the ink appears onto the cloth, continue this process. Other ink lifters include Sunlight bar soap, shaving cream, mosquito repellent (containing DEET) or a 50/50 combination of vodka and three per cent hydrogen peroxide. Some people have had great results with a product called Zout. Test everything on an inconspicuous area first and blot with dish soap and water between applications.

QUESTION: How do you get permanent marker off of a dining room table with a glossy finish? Brad, Winnipeg

ANSWER: Gently scrub with a combination of baking powder and dish soap, being careful not to damage the finish.

QUESTION: A long time ago, we used to be able to take torn used clothing to places like Good Will and they would use them for cloths. Is there anywhere one can do that now? I guess I grew up in the olden times, when we saved everything for patching, but I am finding the pile of stuff is becoming too much. Margaret

ANSWER: Yes, there are several organizations that may take your clothing such as: Salvation Army, Value Village, MCC Thrift Store, Women's Shelters and some churches. I don't know in which area you live but if you call or visit such places you are sure to find a thankful recipient.

QUESTION: A few months ago your column featured a suggestion for spreadable butter right from the fridge. However I have forgotten if it is 1 cup of oil per pound or 1.5 cups per pound. Thanks. Elaine, Winnipeg

ANSWER: Soften a pound of butter overnight in the large bowl of your mixer. The next day start blending your butter until it is creamy. Into a large measuring cup pour one and a half cups of your favorite oil i.e. olive, vegetable, canola etc. and slowly add the oil into the butter until you have a fairly liquid product (experiment to find the consistency you prefer.) If you wish you can add a little additional salt. You will now have a fairly liquid product. Pour your "new" butter into individual small containers and store in the fridge. This product will harden and remain spreadable.

Feedback

Re: Peeling hard boiled eggs

I'm amazed how many people have trouble peeling eggs. The secret is to squeeze the shell, thus loosening the membrane between the egg and shell. The membrane then stays with the shell. In my opinion; eggs should be warm when peeling. Submitted By: Kathy

Smart Tips of the Week:

1. Can't find the warranty for your washing machine? Keep a three-ring binder divided by rooms, floors, or whatever works. File all instruction books, paint chips paint quantities, appliance and tool receipts and warranties, measurements etc., and they'll be easy to find.

2. Lots of bolted lettuce: Don't relegate it to the compost. Wash and freeze it and then crush it down so it takes less space. Use during the winter as a spinach-substitute in soups, stews etc.

3. Can't find stuff in your chest freezer? Put all veggies in one 18 inch sealable bag, meat in another, bread in another etc. Easier to move large bags rather than multiple small items. May need plastic clips to keep them closed - label the clip with masking tape.

Smart Tips sent in by: Rowena from Manitoba

I enjoy your questions and tips, keep them coming. Need a Presenter on the topic: Effective Speaking or The Power of Words? Check out: Reena.ca

By Reena Nerbas
July 25